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A Few Thanksgiving Wines


Mr. Bloodgood’s Flock of White Holland Turkeys. Image from Herbert Myrick’s Turkeys and how to grow them. 1899.

For the Thanksgiving holiday we managed to drink through German Riesling, mature Bordeaux, Oregon Pinot Noir, and a Tawny Port.  Not all in one day, of course, but over several days.  The 2012 Weingut Keller, Riesling Trocken is a recent arrival at MacArthur Beverages.  With pink grapefruit flavors, minerals, and great nerve this is an exciting wine to drink.  It has a lot of personality for the price.  We bought the 1989 Chateau Sociando-Mallet some time ago from MacArthur Beverages, on the order of a decade.  The bottom of the cork was firmly seated in the bottle so despite my Ah-So and Le Creuset worm I still managed to break the cork.  You might recall we recently enjoyed a bottle of 2000 Chateau Phelan Segur which came from a questionable cellar.  When two bottles became available from a good cellar I jumped on them.  Having two bottles was reason alone to open one up. The shorter cork offered less resistance and came out simply with the Ah-So.  Both Bordeaux wines were enjoyed over a period of ten hours.  The 1989 Chateau Sociando-Mallet never really opened up and only slightly faded over the period.  Had there been a bit more fruit I would have enjoyed it more in the mouth but it was certainly an enjoyable drink and as Jenn commented, the nose was of an old wine, and attractive at that.  I imagine this wine will last for some time but I do not see it improving.  The 1990 Chateau Phelan Segur is still on the up-slope and unfolds over several hours.  I really enjoy the earthy, mixed berry aromas and flavors.  The price was crazy good.

The Prize Bronze Turkey bred by Sherman Hartwell. Image from Herbert Myrick’s Turkeys and how to grow them. 1899.

The 2012 Patricia Green Cellars, Pinot Noir, Reserve was being poured at the store the day before Thanksgiving.  The 2012 Sineann, Pinot Noir, Resonance may have rocked but it also highlighted how good the Patricia Green is.  It is a varying blend from different parcels, so perhaps no terroir here but it is tasty stuff for a cold evening by the fire.  I would buy several bottles then hold them for a few months.  The fall and winter are our typical seasons for drinking port. The NV Wine & Soul, 10 Years Old Tawny is a new bottle for us.  It is a field blend from old vineyards which are foot-trodden then raised in 50+ year old Portuguese Chestnut containers.  The bottle is finished with a traditional long cork but a short cork is included for stoppering after it is opened.  This is a fresh, young Tawny Port with impeccable balance.  It is less nutty than other ports.

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2012 Weingut Keller, Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen – $20
Alcohol 12%.  There were flavors of pink grapefruit and minerals which had great nerve from acidity.  The acidity was focused at the start with the wine taking on drying, spices and textures towards the finish where more minerals came out.  Young and lively.  *** Now-2024.

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1989 Chateau Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Medoc –
Imported by Luke’s Distributing Co.  Alcohol 12.5%  There was a mature nose, learner in aroma with black cherry and wood notes.  In the mouth were dense flavors of black cherry, firm acidity, and old textured tannins in the finish.  The finish was fresh with some ripe spices and tannins.  The old, tasty wood structure was appealing.  ** Now-2018.

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1990 Chateau Phelan Segur, Saint-Estephe – $40
Alcohol 13%.  The interesting nose bore earthy, mixed berries.  In the mouth were slowly expanding flavors of black cherry which took on an earthy note.  There were minerals and nice expansion in the middle followed good integration of some weighty tannins and acidity.  There was grip in the aftertaste where the acidity returned.  The wine left impressions of nice, earthy, mineral flavors.  ***(*) Now-2024.

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2012 Patricia Green Cellars, Pinot Noir, Reserve, Willamette Valley – $24
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir which was aged in 5% new oak.  Alcohol 13.5%. The nose bore standout aromas of Pinot Noir berry fruit.  In the mouth were younger fruit flavors, some spices, and depth.  With air the flavors leaned brighter with red fruit and acidity and a good aftertaste.  It has complexity and grapey depth, almost ripasso like.  With air this builds weight in the finish.  *** 2014-2019.

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NV Wine & Soul, 10 Years Old Tawny – $45
Imported by Winebow.  This wine is a field blend of over 30 varieties sourced from vineyards planted between 1950 and 1970 on soils of schist at 1155 feet.  Bottled in 2011.  Alcohol 19.5%.  This was a fruit driven tawny which remained fresh in flavor.  There was some weight to the wine before black fruit, minerals, and good acidity came out.  There was a tangy finish with notes of orange peel.  This seamless wine has a glycerine infused body with fresh and complex flavors that are less nutty than other Tawny Ports.  **** Now-2029.

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