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Good Wines Abound in Sicily
What is remarkable about these four red wines from Sicily is that the even the two least expensive bottles, made primarily from Nerello Mascalese, are great! The 2017 Calabretta, Gaio Gaio, Etna is my favorite for drinking right now. Calabretta consistently releases top-notch wines at low prices and this particular bottling is beautiful. The 2017 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso is also approachable now. It offers more stuffing up front but then a chalky, floral finish speaks of the island. The 2017 Occhipinti, SP68, Sicily is a different blend being Frappato with Nero d’Avola. It is not offering as much as I would like so try it again in a year. The 2014 Calabretta, Pinot Nero, Etna needs time too but it has the goods! I recently bought these wines at MacArthur Beverages.
2017 Calabretta, Gaio Gaio, Etna – $17
Imported by Williams Corner Wines. This wine is 100% Nerello Mascalese sourced from old vines. It was aged in large, old oak containers. Alcohol 14%. Aromatic berries on the nose. Crunchy, rosemary infused strawberry flavors. This is a beautiful wine with good presence and length in the finish. It has the structure and acidity for some years. *** Now – 2024.
2014 Calabretta, Pinot Nero, Etna – $25
Imported by Williams Corner Wines. Fairly robust at first, the intensity is surprising but then this is clearly an outstanding vintage. There is a core of fruit and puckering acidity which will see this through development. It remains tight so a good candidate for the cellar. *** 2022-2027.
2017 Occhipinti, SP68, Sicily – $26
Imported by Louis/Dressner. A blend of mostly Frappato with Nero d’Avola which was fermented then aged in concrete tanks. Alcohol 12.5%. Scented red fruit on the nose. Bright in the mouth, a little earth, certainly tart with modest structure. Lively but the tart, ripe structure needs to resolve. **(*) 2020-2025.
2017 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso – $19
Imported by deGrazia Imports. This wine is a blend of 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio Alcohol 14%. Flavorful, almost robust, certainly impressive for the stuffing. Firm red candy then a mineral, chalky vein before the lifted, floral finish. *** Now – 2024.
A hearty 2007 Calabretta, Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie
The 2007 Calabretta, Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie, IGT (Etna Rosso) is a surprisingly robust example of a red wine from Etna. It is made from old vines located in a single vineyard that is bottled as IGT instead of Etna Rosso. This done because various vintage of this wine were found to be atypical. I find that it will stand up to the cold weather as well as any hearty meal. Priced at only $26, it a strong value for a wine already showing maturity. You may find it at MacArthur Beverage.
2007 Calabretta, Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie, IGT (Etna Rosso) – $26
Imported by Williams Corner Wine. This wine is a blend of Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio sourced from vines primarily 60-80 years old with some more than 100 years old and ungrafted. It was fermented in stainless steel then aged 36-42 months in large Slavonian oak casks. Alcohol 15%. A flavorful, maturing wine that is deep with notes of leather. The watering acidity carries the flavor through the very good middle and into the slightly coarse tannins of the finish. This is a medium bodied wine, full of flavor, that develops additional notes of vintage perfume and berries. ***(*) Now – 2025.
A Bottle of White, A Bottle of Red
2014 Arianna Occhipinti, Sicilia SP68 Bianco
I absolutely love this wine. I found myself initially thinking I was up in the Alto Adige with some lively Kerner in my glass. Outrageously floral. The white twin to the red Ruché aromatically. The wine tricks the palate – don’t be fooled by the ripe notes of peach and apricot, as the wine is dry. The wine could use a touch more acidity but on balance this is a beautiful warm weather white. I would not age the wine. DB.
2014 Arianna Occhipinti, Sicilia SP68 Nero d’Avola e Frappato
A little rustic at the beginning. Red fruits – cherry and wild strawberries. Then earth and some funk. But in a good way. This blend works well. Medium length in the mouth. The last sip reminded me of a very young Northern Rhone Syrah with the flash of violets on the palate. Finished long. DB.
The 2014 Frank Cornelissen, Contadino 12th edition is well done
I have experienced maddening variation over the years with bottles from Cornelissen. I do not know whether this is exacerbated by no merchant storing it below the recommended 61 F or the warm car rides home. I certainly was prepared to return the bottle but after a quick sniff and taste, I knew I would not have to. This bottle developed fine over the course of an evening without showing any Pilsner flavors. It is best imagined as a rugged, approachable natural wine from Etna. Well stored examples may even develop some complexity over the next few years. I would recommend this for existing fans or those who want to experience what Frank Cornelissen is all about. This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.
2014 Frank Cornelissen, Contadino 12th edition, Sicily – $26
Imported by Fruit of the Vines. This wine is a field blend of 85% Nerello Mascalese along with a small amount of Nerello Capuccio, Allicante Boushet, Minella nera, Uva Francesa, and Minella bianco. Alcohol 14%. This is a zippy, stone infused, red fruited wine. It mixed red fruit with citric pith flavors, plenty of baking spices, and extract in the way of texture. It sports some very fine, cloudy sediment. *** Now – 2021.
Casual notes on four Sicilian red wines
A few weeks ago we were joined by another family for a late afternoon gathering. The kids played while we tasted through a selection of Sicilian wines. It was a casual evening so I only jotted down brief impressions. To cut to the chase, the 2014 Tenuta Delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso must be the most forward and generous vintage yet. It is a fruity, affordable wine from Etna to drink right now for our bottle seemed tired by the end of the evening. Still, it made for an enjoyable drink while we waited for the other bottles to come around. Whereas the 2013 COS, Pithos, Vittoria Rosso remained distractingly tannic and the 2013 Tenuta da Aglaea, Aglaea, Etna too simple, the 2013 Tenuta da Aglaea, Talia, Etna surprised us all. After 3-4 hours it became aromatic with an elegant style of complexity that had us all proclaiming it as our favorite as we then rapidly drained the bottle. These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.
2013 COS, Pithos, Vittoria Rosso – $34
Imported by Domaine Select Wines. This wine is a blend of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. It is fermented in terracotta amphora of 250 and 400 liter capacities. The fermentation is allowed to take its own course so there is no temperature control and it typically lasts for seven months. Alcohol 12%. The somewhat floral nose is followed by tart red fruit and a wall of very fine tannins. It remained distractingly tannic, even with extended air, leaving the impression the structure will outlast the fruit. *(*) 2020? – 2026?
2014 Tenuta Delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso – $17
Imported by deGrazia Imports. This wine is a blend of 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio sourced from 5-50 year old vines on volcanic soils. It was fermented then aged for 11 months in large French oak barrels then aged a further month in stainless steel. Alcohol 14%. Generous flavors of ripe red fruit tastes young in nature. Perhaps the most forward vintage yet it drinks well from the very first glass with supporting acidity and tannins. ** Now.
2013 Tenuta da Aglaea, Talia, Etna – $26
Imported by Simon N Cellars. This wine is 100% Nerello Mascalese sourced from 40-50 year old vines planted on volcanic ash soil located at 2250 feet in elevation. It was aged for 8 months in old oak barrels. Alcohol 13.5%. After several hours of air the nose became very aromatic with floral and herb aromas. In the mouth were fine, red and black fruit flavors with a vein of lively acidity. The complexity and depth for aging is there but requires hours to come out. *** 2018 – 2024.
2013 Tenuta da Aglaea, Aglaea, Etna – $18
Imported by Simon N Cellars. This wine is 100% Nerello Mascalese sourced from 10-30 year old vines planted on volcanic ash soil located at 2250 feet in elevation. Alcohol 13%. Brighter, more acidity, and simpler than the other bottling. *(*) Now – 2017.
A trio of Italian wines made from Croatina, Gaglioppo, Nocera, Vespolina, and more!
The three Italian wines featured in today’s post all posses good personality at less than $20 per bottle. The current offering of the 2012 Hauner Carlo, Hiera, Sicily evokes the 2008 and 2009 vintages which I enjoyed very much. In fact, I enjoyed several bottles of this wine before I managed to write down a tasting note. It is a rich offering from Sicily with hard to describe flavors and very good tension. A must try! The 2012 Ippolito, I Mori, Calabria will certainly benefit from short-term aging to soften the strength of the Gaglioppo and to let the wine open up. Right now it offers a sense of its future so it is best left in the cellar. The 2013 La Piane, Maggiorina is the little brother of the excellent 2011 Le Paine, Piane, Colline Novaresi I previously tasted with Tim. The former contains a good proportion of Croatina as well as ten other varieties. It is a very light and not too tart wine, yet will remaining interesting to drink throughout the winter. These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.
2012 Hauner Carlo, Hiera, Sicily – $18
Imported by Empson USA. This wine is a blend of 60% Alicante, 30% Nocera, and 10% Nero d’Avola. Alcohol 13%. The nose reveals exotic berries. In the mouth the tart and puckering red fruit, tingles the sides of the tongue. The clean flavors persist but fine and ripe tannins creep up during the aftertaste. I find the flavors hard to describe but there is good complexity, a darker middle, and rather attractive tension. *** Now – 2018.
2012 Ippolito, I Mori, Calabria – $18
Imported by Cantiniere Imports. This wine is a blend of 70% Gaglioppo and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Alcohol 13.5%. The nose sported low-lying, rich aromas. In the mouth were tight flavors of red and blue fruit moved along by watering acidity. The flavors became dry by the finish matching the very fine, dry structure , and dry baking spices. With air this took on a bit of a grapey start and round hint but overall this needs a year to open up. **(*) 2016-2020.
2013 La Piane, Maggiorina – $17
Imported by Free Run Wine Merchants. This wine is a blend of Croatina, Uvarara, Vespolina, Nebbiolo, and 9 other varieties sourced from vines 20-80 years of age. Alcohol 12.5%. The brighter aromas mix with greenhouse plants with a hint of earth. In the mouth the wine has very focused and gentle ripeness. It is not too tart with bright and firm, red fruit, watering acidity, and nice, fuzzy textured tannins. This lighter wine finishes with citric dryness. ** Now – 2016.
Thrown for a loop by two Italian wines
I was surprised by both of these wines. The 2009 Tolaini, Al Passo, Tuscany is a very effective blend of Sangiovese and Merlot that already shows bottle aged flavors. Its complicated upbringing surely contributed to the attractive wood box and spices. The wine has great vigor and tastes great, making it an excellent choice for your fall meals. It is also only $20! I pulled the 2011 Alice Bonaccorsi, Rivedibile, Rosso Relativo Rosato, Sicily out of the fridge expecting a full-on rosato. The wine was clearly too cold and once warmed up, acted like a light red wine. It tasted best on the second night when the odd flavors and good acidity made it an engaging wine for one glass. Unless you are incredibly curious save your money on this wine, your guests will get more enjoyment from the Tolaini. These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.
2009 Tolaini, Al Passo, Tuscany – $20
Imported by Banville & Jones. This wine is a blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. The fruit underwent alcoholic fermentation in a combination of stainless steel and oak, underwent malolactic fermentation in oak, then was aged on the lees for six months followed by 8 months of barrique aging. Alcohol 13.5%. The nose had aromas of wood box, dark blue fruit, and attractive aromas from maturity. In the mouth the wood box continued this time with spices and blue and black fruit. With air the wine shows great vigor and was really tasty. The fruit took on some weight and had herbs that carried through to the black fruited finish. The acidity was watering with black minerals in the finish. This is on the cusp, perhaps one year, from being fully mature. ***(*) 2015-2020.
2011 Alice Bonaccorsi, Rivedibile, Rosso Relativo Rosato, Sicily – $23
Imported by RWK Imports. This wine is 100% Nerello Mascalese. Alcohol 13%. The color was a medium garnet, black cherry. In the mouth were flavors of hard red fruit that filled the mouth like a light red wine. Clearly different tasting this sported fresh herbs, nice ripeness, and acidity in the back of the throat. ** Now-2016.
Oddities from Italy IncludingBarrel-Aged Rosato, Muller-Thurgau, and Sulphur-free Wines
A recent selection of Italian wines has once again proved interesting. My favorite of the group is the 2012 Radoar, Etza, Vigneti delle Dolomiti Bianco. This wine was produced by Norbert Blasbichler on his farm in the Dolomite mountains. His family has been farming the land for centuries and currently tends cows, grows cereals, walnuts, apples, and of course grapevines. While there have been vines on the farm for two centuries it had only been since 1999 that the wines were bottled and sold. His white Etza is a lovely wine that changed with air. While it is full of white fruit and citrus flavors it is the ample component of stones that elevates the wine. Definitely worth checking out. I have had a few aged rosé wines both from forgotten bottles and robust regions like Bandol. However, the 2007 Fondo Antica, Vina Memorie Rosato, Sicily is certainly unique. The 2007 vintage is the current release for a wine fermented and raised in oak barrels! With its autumnal aromas and vintage perfume infused flavors this is more of a wine to contemplate one glass at a time.
Reading about the 2010 Cantina Giardino, La fole, Campania Aglianico entices curiosity for each vintage is produced differently employing an array of oak and cherry barrels, stainless steel, fiberglass, and home-made amphoras. The wines are typically bottled as-is but sulphur is sometimes added. The nose was somewhat interesting with its strong funk that morphed into earthy aromas. But then there was that piercing natural-wine aroma, flavor, and powerful tannins that I just do not like nor understand. There was a sense of that naturalness in the 2009 Masseria Guttarol, Lamie Delle Vigne, Puglia. This wine was also bottled without sulphur and though the piercing natural aroma came through on the nose it sported finely scented spices and berries. The flavors in the mouth were good with a pleasing mineral note. This is certainly worth trying as an unique take on Primitivo. These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.
2012 Radoar, Etza, Vigneti delle Dolomiti Bianco – $29
Imported by Louis/Dressner. This wine is 100% Muller-Thurgau which was fermented and aged in stainless steel. Alcohol 12.5%. The wine was initially round but with air white fruit and ample stone flavors came out. There was a puckering start followed by drying, citrus flavors, lovely stone notes, and citric pith and tannins on the gums. It became slightly floral with salivating acidity. Nice wine. *** Now-2016.
2007 Fondo Antica, Vina Memorie Rosato, Sicily – $22
Imported by. This wine is 100% Nero d’Avola which was fermented and aged in barrels. Alcohol 12.5%. The wine had a dried rose color. The aromas of Nero d’Avola mixed with autumnal notes and yeast. The wine smooth out with air to reveal tart flavors, vintage perfume notes, acidity, and almost fine, drying tannins. ** Now-2017.
2010 Cantina Giardino, La fole, Campania Aglianico – $23
Imported by Louis/Dressner. Alcohol 12.5%. On the first evening the nose was overtly funky with some tobacco notes. On the second evening it revealed earthy aromas in a sea of piercing natural aromas. In the mouth were bitter fruit flavors that became black with drying spices. There were notes of new leather, red-black fruit, along with strong tannins and citric-pith that coated the gums. Not my style but perhaps better with a little age. * 2015-2018.
2009 Masseria Guttarol, Lamie Delle Vigne, Puglia – $23
Imported by Louis/Dressner/ This wine is 100% Primitivo sourced from 25+ year old vines on soils of limestone and clay. It was fermented with indigenous yeasts then aged for 20 months in stainless steel. It was bottled without sulphur. Alcohol 14%. The nose was more aromatic on the second night with natural wine aromas, finely scented spices, and tart berries. In the mouth were tarty, grapey red fruit flavors then blacker fruit as the acidity became more noticeable. The light flavors were tart on the tongue tip. The wine finished with mineral notes in the dry finish. **(*) 2015-2019.