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1983 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes
An advertisement for Chateau Rieussec placed in New Orleans during 1851.
Chateau Rieussec was purchased by Albert Vuillier in 1971. He replanted many of the vineyards, which he acquired in a decayed state, and began purchasing new wood for aging the wine. The vineyards were planted to 89% Semillon, 8% Sauvignon, and 3% Muscadelle. For the 1983 vintage, nearly 50% of the wine would have been aged in new oak for 18-20 months.
Lafite-Rothschild purchased the estate in 1984 which explains why my bottle features a capsule marked Domaines Barons de Rothschild. With their arrival came a cryo-extractor in 1987 followed by a pneumatic press and air-conditioning for the chai in 1989. I purchased this bottle of 1983 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes nearly ten years ago at MacArthur Beverages. With a fill in the neck, it is in its prime of life. It improved across the second night, offering rich yet tense flavors. The strong 1983 vintage marks a bit of a re-birth for Sauternes and for Rieussec, a transition to a modern age.
1983 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes
A little pungent on the nose with sweet aromas of dried fruits. In the mouth are fresh flavors of tangerine with hints of lemon. It is medium-bodied with a rounded nature that is not too sweet as the acidity makes it tense and tart on the sides of the tongue. There are hints of gentle spices and caramel. With air it takes on a black tea note and spicy grip at the end. **** Now – 2030.
Four Good Values From Bordeaux
This quartet of red Bordeaux was recommended by Phil at MacArthur Beverages. Priced between $13 and $20 these bottles represent good value for current consumption and a short-slumber in the cellar. For near-term drinking grab the 2014 Chateau Dubourg, Saint Emilion and the 2016 Chateau Francs Magnus, Bordeaux Superieur. These Merlot dominated blends each have their owner personality, dried herbs with the Dubourg and intense stones with the Francs Magnus. For drinking over the next decade, after a few more years in the cellar, grab the 2016 Chateau Senejac, Haut-Medoc and the 2014 Chateau du Taillan, Haut-Medoc. These show a bit more backbone from the Cabernet Sauvignon. The Senejac is cool, balanced, and spiced whereas du Taillan takes on some earthiness.
2014 Chateau Dubourg, Saint Emilion – $17
Imported by MacArthur Beverages. This wine is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol 13.5%. Round and creamy with a blue fruited start then a vein of minerals with black fruit. The low-lying, supple tannin provide subtle support. The wine wraps-up with a very black, stone laden finish. Intense in character with a bit of bitterness. **(*) Now – 2014.
2016 Chateau Francs Magnus, Bordeaux Superieur – $13
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is a blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol 14%. This reflects a good, youthful state. The mixture of red and blue fruit is a little tart with flavors of dried herbs, and dry wood box carried by juicy acidity. This vein of acidity carries into the tart, and citric finish. With air notes of rosemary come out as does a coating of fat. Strong value. *** Now – 2013.
2016 Chateau Senejac, Haut-Medoc – $20
Imported by MacArthur Beverages. This wine is a blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Alcohol 13.5%. A spiced nose of black berries. Young with focused flavors of black fruit and exotic spice. There is a mineral touch with some perfume in the finish. The spiced tannins take a grip on the gums. The overall cool tilt to the flavors makes for a fresh wine with supportive acidity and good length. Will develop and last. *** Now – 2029.
2014 Chateau du Taillan, Haut-Medoc – $19
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Alcohol 14.5%. Round and black fruited this has a focused core of fruit. It takes on some earth before the mineral finish. This is a mouth filling wine with more structure for development. It leaves a drying sensation on the gums along with a licorice hint. It should develop for another year or two. *** Now – 2026.
A Blind Tasting of 2005 Bordeaux with a Rioja
At the very end of the summer, I was a guest of Andy for the monthly wine tasting. We first gathered around his kitchen to eat from huge wedges of cheese and drink from a bottle of 2017 Matanzas Creek Winery, Chardonnay, Alexander Valley. It is quite good all around, there is a balanced quartet of yellow fruit, body, acidity, and wood influence. It is a wine I recommend drinking again.
The tasting itself consisted of eight wines served blind. They had been opened some four hours prior. We knew one bottle was corked which logically left us with 6 bottles on theme and 1 ringer. There was a Bordeaux flavor profile to most bottles but the lightness and herbaceous quality of the first two had my sights first set to Chile. Then came the third wine with its ripe fruit, weight, and minerality and I was no longer certain of the theme. It was clear, though, that the last wine was the ringer.
This assortment of 2005 Bordeaux from Pauillac, Saint-Estephe, and Saint-Julien varied in quality. I found the 2005 Chateau Lagrange, Saint-Julien as my clear favorite and very satisfying to drink. It is coming into a fine mid-life which should last for a bit of time. I do not mind the herbaceous note I found in my next two favorites: the 2005 Chateau Saint-Pierre, Saint-Julien a good value which is very mineral and the 2005 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre, Saint Julien. The latter is rounded, yet closely played and in need of several more years in the cellar. The 2005 Cos D’Estournel, Saint-Estephe under performed and did not exhibit to the potential of the label. Sadly, the 2005 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac was completely undrinkable. Finally, the 2005 CVNE, Imperial Rioja Reserva stood out for its young, red fruit. I found it hard to judge coming after the other wines.
1 – 2005 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre, Saint Julien
Imported by Appellation Imports. Alcohol 13.5%. A dark cherry with garnet color. Aromatic with notes of cedar mixing in blue and red fruit. A good nose somewhat herbaceous. Bordeaux like in the mouth with round black fruit, a dry finish, and some fine structure in the end. Expertly made and closely played, it shows more ripe fruit and structure with air. Best given a few more years in the cellar. ***(*) 2022-2032.
2 – 2005 Chateau Haut-Bages-Liberal, Pauillac
Imported by Benchmark wines. Alcohol 13%. Very dark. More herbaceous on the nose with blue fruit. A touch more structure yet also more suppleness. Less intensity with watering acidity and more tannins on the gums. A short finish. It could use more time for the structure to resolve but this bottle might now have the fruit for it. *** Now – 2029.
3 – 2005 Chateau Lagrange, Saint-Julien
Imported by Chateaux + Estates. Alcohol 13%. A more complex wine with ripe flavors, weight, and minerals. The primarily blue and black fruit has a green hint but it weighty with good length. A fresh structure throughout it is redder in the middle. My favorite. **** Now – 2034.
4 – 2005 Chateau D’Armailhac, Pauillac
Imported by North Lake Wines. Alcohol 13%. Some brett on the nose. Interesting, tart red fruit with a fine tannic finish that is quite grippy on the gums. Animale flavors in the finish. *** Now – 2029.
5 – 2005 Cos D’Estournel, Saint-Estephe
Imported by Chateaux + Estates. Alcohol 13.5%. Less aromatic. More licorice-like in the flavor, a touch racy with large amounts of flavor. Dark in the finish. It just does not deliver the balanced goods. A drinkable bottle but under-performing based on the reveal. **(*) Now – 2029.
6 – 2005 Chateau Saint-Pierre, Saint-Julien
Imported by Liquidlink. Alcohol 13%. Low-lying on the nose. The wine shows substance but also some herbaceous qualities. Blue and black flavored with a mineral vein. In fact, the mineral vein persisted throughout the tasting. ***(*) Now – 2029.
7 – 2005 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac
Imported by Heritage Wine Cellars. Alcohol 13%. Corked! Not Rated.
8 – 2005 CVNE, Imperial Rioja Reserva
Alcohol 13.5%. Sweet cranberry and strawberry fruits, unevolved with watering acidity. Sweet oak. Develops intensity with air. Younger tasting than the other wines despite the completely integrated structure. *** Now – 2024.
A disintegrating label yet solid 1966 Lafite Rothschild
A widow recently sold off the small remains of her wine cellar. The wines were originally purchased from MacArthur Beverages a long time ago, then stored in the basement of her house. There was nearly a case of 1966 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac with labels varying from largely intact to disintegrating. I picked bottles with the best fills, which coincidentally had the worst labels. Last month, I opened a bottle with the lowest fill to gauge what I had purchased.
The 1966 vintage of Lafite was available in Washington, DC for several years. In 1970, you could purchase 1966 Lafite for $9.50 a bottle. By 1971, the price had crept up to $12 before skyrocketing to $20 in 1972. You can understand how this massive increase in French wine prices, in part, led to more people buying Californian wine.
Under the capsule, the top of the cork was covered with mold which was working its way down the long cork. While not the best preserved cork, at least half of it was still in business. I decanted the wine into a flask then took a sniff of a freshly poured glass. It smelled clean.
Edmund Penning-Rowsell writes that Lafite went through a bit of a bad spell between 1964 and 1974. David Peppercorn reports that 323 tonneaux were produced that vintage which is a greater than in 1982. I relay this information because I found this bottle just moderately good. It did smell and taste of good condition despite the fill and label. My impression seems to follow others on Cellar Tracker. While the wine is now in a tertiary state with cigar box, earth, and meat, there is good weight and even a sense of fat. I happily drank it with relishing thoughts of what is in the other bottles.
1966 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac
Shipped by Laurent Lescure. Imported by Capitol City Liquors Co. This is a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon followed by Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Upper to top shoulder fill. A garnet-mahogany color. A slight herbaceous edge to the nose but also earth and meat. The flavors are light yet the body is weighty and develops a round edge. With air, flavors of tart red fruit take on cigar box by the middle and graphite in the end. A pretty wine, completely smooth, which becomes meaty with luxurious, ethereal fat in the finish. **(*) Now.
Magnums at a friend’s gathering
Last week I went over to a friend’s house to hang out and drink some wine. He had invited his neighbors over and to quench our thirst he opened five different magnums from his cellar. With two glasses in hand we first compared two different Chardonnay wines from the 2004 vintage. Repeated assessments to determine the different qualities of the 2004 Bernard Morey, Puligny-Montrachet La Truffiere 1er Cru and 2004 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses meant the magnums were largely finish by evening’s end. With air and warmth, both magnums continued to exhibit fresh aromas and flavors defying their age. These pristine examples revealed themselves to be quite different. The Morey is the more mature, more hedonistic of the pair since it offers more mid-palate ripeness and grip. The Dauvissat is precise with stone-infused focused flavors. I liked them both though I give a nod to the Dauvissat. It really is incredible at how fresh these wines can remain.
The second flight compared two mostly Cabernet Sauvignon based wines from the 1996 vintage. The 1996 Chateau Montelena, Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, Napa Valley reveals berries on the nose with more fruit and substance through the middle. It is, no doubt, very good and while generous, it remains controlled. My preference lies with the 1996 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac. The deep nose is killer with mineral, tart black flavors that are highly focused. I would drink it now because the aromas are so attractive. I can easily image it will last another 10-20 years but it might become too austere at that age whereas the Montelena will continue to offer more fruity, flavorful drinking.
Dessert was in the form of 2005 Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape. Sadly, it came across as rather unevolved and underperforming so after a quick taste I returned to the other wines. Due to my friend’s generosity in providing magnums, we were insured there still more to enjoy with the other selections.
2004 Bernard Morey, Puligny-Montrachet La Truffiere 1er Cru en magnum
Imported by Atherton Wine Imports. Alcohol 13.5%. A vibrant yellow-green with a fine, smoke hint on the nose. Mineral with tart lemon flavors and mid palate presence from gravelly fruit with hints of ripeness. Lovely and mature, it might develop a bit more. I found it generally precise with a little spice and long aftertaste. ***(*) Now – 2024.
2004 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses en magnum
Imported by Wine Cellars LTD. Alcohol 13%. A lighter, brighter straw yellow color. A beautiful, tense wine with a fine layer of fat into the end. Fresh with lifted acidity with lower-lying flavors that become subtle in the fat infused finish. It remains focused with lemon flavors before wrapping up with a pure and tart, persistent aftertaste. **** Now – 2030.
1996 Chateau Montelena, Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, Napa Valley en magnum
Alcohol 13.5%. Berries on the nose. Fresh, weighty flavors with a good core of black rurant then a mineral hint in the end. It takes on more weight and while richer, it is framed out and always in control. It is mouth filling with flavors that cling to the gums. **** Now – 2025.
1996 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac en magnum
Shipped by Bernard et Meneret. Imported by Vintage Trading. This is roughly a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. Alcohol 13%. Deep on the nose with graphite and minerals. A mineral, tart black fruited start is carried by watering acidity. It is lighter in weight, remaining focused with taut, fresh flavors and a long lasting aftertaste. **** Now – 2035.
2005 Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape en magnum
Alcohol 15%. The waves of rounded, mouth filling fruit, came across as monolithic and not having developed any complexity. A seemingly underperforming bottle that was just not my style this evening. Not Rated.
A pair of modest 2000 red Bordeaux
A month or so ago, Phil brought in a cache of well-stored Bordeaux from which I bought a few modestly priced selections. I went through a few bottles of 2000 Les Hauts de Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, concluding that it is a wine to drink up. At best it has deep aromas followed by gentle, mature wood box flavors. It is a luncheon wine. My favorite is the gutsy 2000 Chateau Fontenil, Fronsac. Produced before micro-oxygenation was introduced, it is saline and savory. Though mature, it has good life ahead and currently offers fine length. It is a good value at $30.
2000 Les Hauts de Pontet-Canet, Pauillac – $35
Imported by LVDH. Alcohol 13%. Some mature, deep notes on the nose. The flavors are wood box infused with a gentle and mature nature yet the wine is balanced and not old. It is in a focused, leaner style with a little minerality, a touch of ripe spice, and freshness. Good length. **(*) Now – 2022.
2000 Chateau Fontenil, Fronsac – $30
Imported by Bacchus Importers. Alcohol 13.5%. Savory salinity is bound with minerals and mature flavors. In a good state, it still comes across as fresh, with supportive acidity, a long finish, and good aftertaste. Has life yet. *** Now – 2024.
The 2018 Enclos, Tourmaline
After the Giacomo Conterno, Cascina Franca Barbera d’Alba tasting we were privileged to try an interesting sample from Bordeaux. I’ll admit it was quite a pivot from mature Barbera but sometimes you must forge on.
The 2018 Enclos, Tourmaline, Pomerol is a tiny cuvee of some 275 cases produced only in the best vintages from the smallest appellation in Bordeaux. The wine is made entirely of Merlot sourced from vines averaging 25 years of age located on four tiny parcels which total 1 hectare. One plot is next to Clinet, one next to La Fleur Petrus, one between Le Pin and Trotanoy, and one next to Rouget. The fruit is fermented in 100% new oak then will be aged for an expected 20 months. This is full-bore, mineral Merlot which I found hard to believe it is a sample! It would be interesting to taste it again with other young Bordeaux to better put it in perspective.
2018 Enclos, Tourmaline, Pomerol echantillon
This wine is 100% Merlot which was whole berry fermented in 100% new oak. Alcohol 14.7%. This is serious, youthfully packed Merlot. It is young and big yet there is balance all around. Of moderate weight and fresh acidity it grips the gums. The tannins are very fine, fully integrated, and one harmonious part. Darker red and black fruits, very mineral, and almost plush in nature. **** from 2020.
Top values from Bordeaux: Marsau and Clos Marsalette
Phil at MacArthur Beverages recommends the two wines featured in this post and so must I. The 2015 Chateau Marsau, Cotes de Francs is a highly mineral, savory wine with an attractive nose of herbs. It is a top value at $22, offering both personality and the ability to age for several years. For me, the 2014 Clos Marsalette, Pessac-Leognan is all about satisfyingly deep aromas and supple, dark flavors. This may be a forward wine but it still has tension. It is the sort of wine I want to drink glass after glass of and worth every bit of $25.
2015 Chateau Marsau, Cotes de Francs – $22
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is 100% Merlot. Alcohol 14.5%. The nose of herbs evokes sage and thyme. In the mouth there is a savory edge to this highly mineral wine. There is a focused vein or core of ripe and dense black fruit. There is subtle perfume in the end with a cool, zippy finish. The supportive structure leaves ripe, gum coating tannins and a spicy note. It has strong personality! ***(*) Now – 2025.
2014 Clos Marsalette, Pessac-Leognan – $25
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is a blend of 60% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc fermented in wooden and concrete vats then aged for 18 months in 40% new oak. Alcohol 13.5%. A good nose of deep aromas. In the mouth this is dark with licorice and cassis, a bit gravelly with tense freshness. With air it is decidedly dark fruited with cassis and a eucalyptus/greenhouse hint. The tannins are present yet completely integrated. It takes on a cooler tilt with air. This is a very satisfying, supple wine to be drunk now. ***(*) Now – 2023.
Chateau Camino-Salva in Cocks-Féret (1901)
Bordeaux et ses vins classés par ordre de mérite (7e éd…). 1901. Cocks & Féret. [1]
[1] Bordeaux et ses vins classés par ordre de mérite. Cocks, Charles and Féret, Édouard. 1901. Bibliothèque nationale de France, département Philosophie, histoire, sciences de l’homme, 8-LK7-1082 (BIS,C). URL: https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb302537639
A tasting of Château Léoville Poyferré 2015-1990
On January 18, 2019, Panos Kakaviatos (https://wine-chronicles.com/) gathered together a group of DC wine lovers for one of his biannual Bordeaux dinners. This was one was at Le Petit Bouchon Restaurant in the French Embassy and featured the wines of Léoville Poyferré.
As in the past he invited a guest from the Chateaux and had a vertical representation of multiple vintages. Also, as always, Panos was a wonderful host who obviously took great care in the menu and the wines to make sure everything showed at its best, and that the guests all had a great time. From the Chateau was Sara Lecompte-Cuvelier, who provided great commentary on the wines and was a charming ambassador for the estate.
The wines were served in five flights preceded by a variety of Champagne. For me the highlights were a 2002 Piper Heidsieck Rare and a 2002 Dom Perignon. Both were in a great place with bracing acidity, citrus fruit and a rich body. I give the edge to the Dom.
My general impressions of the wines were very positive, with a few very great ones. They all showed a nice structure that was never over the top. They were balanced and fresh, even in the riper vintages.
First Flight: 2014, 2012, 2010. Paired with Snails Croque Monsieur.
My favorite dish of the night and a smart pairing for these vintages.
2014 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
I liked this a lot and still think that 2014 Bordeaux overall may be the vintage to buy, given the balance of quality and price. This wine was very deep and rich, with cassis, cedar and a drying finish. Maybe a little austere in the middle. ***(*)
2012 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
My least favorite of the flight. Less polished, a little musty and earthy in the middle with some heat at the end. I do like the concentration and acidity. **(*)
2010 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
This is a very great wine. Very concentrated. Cassis, graphite, a spicy herbal note all balanced by some mineral and balanced acidity. Medium tannins and great structure. A terrific future. ****(*)
Second Flight: 2011, 2008, 2002. Paired with a lobster “purse” in a carrot ginger sauce.
While this was an unusual choice, I actually think it worked well.
2011 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
This reminded me of the 14 but a notch below in quality. Still very good. Tasting very young with hard tannin but great fruit and structure. I think it needs some time to come together a bit more. ***
2008 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
An expressive wine with hints of dried berry, lavender and mint on the nose. The fruit is there but more contained. I like it very much and can see this coming around sooner than some of the other wines. ***(*)
2002 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
The weakest of the flight. Leaner, with some green notes. Actually may be drinking at its peak now. Shows way better with the food. ** to *** ?
Third Flight: 2001, 2000, 1990. Lamb loin.
All these wines showed very well with the 1990 my favorite of the night.
2001 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
Some green herbaceousness, dill, some earth. Classically styled. ***
2000 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
A great nose with balanced notes of fruit, herbs and cassis. A long life ahead. ****
1990 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
Very fresh nose. Bright, rich. Creamy, silky fruit in the mouth. Perfect acidity and concentration.****(*)
Fourth Flight: 1989, 1985, 1982. Cheeses.
2006 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
A sharp, somewhat shrill nose is a deceptive start to what is actually a balanced wine. It likely just needs a bit of time to smooth the coarseness and fully integrate. ***
2005 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
A huge wine showing as very locked in at present. It is very rich and concentrated, very complex but desperately in need of time to show its best. ***(*)
2004 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
Showing better than I expected, this is a concentrated wine with strong notes of cedar and cassis. A pleasant surprise. ***
Fifth Flight: 2003, 2009, 2015. Chocolate Dessert.
An ok pairing. I remain skeptical about big red wines and chocolate.
2003 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
Very fond of this tonight. Not showing as roasted or overripe, except some coffee notes. Actually some green, minty notes present. Very fresh and complex. Another surprise. ****
2009 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
Still fairly primary. Black fruits, some wood and earth but smooth tannins. Needs lots of time. Impressive wine. ****(*)
2015 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien
The greatest potential of all the wines tonight but now very primary with only the hints of what this will be. Very concentered blue fruits, vanilla, smoke and liqueur. I really like this. Is it better than the 1990? I’m not sure but can’t wait to see how it is after another couple of decades. The 2010 will certainly give it a run for its money. ****(*)
Thanks Panos for including me in a great event!
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