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Archive for April, 2017

Syrah from Viala and Vermorel’s Ampelographie

As the previous post featured a wine made from Syrah I decided to include an illustration of a Syrah bunch from Viala and Vermorel’s Ampélographie.  It was published just over one century ago in seven volumes, featuring 500 chromolithographed images of grape varieties.

Syrah from Viala and Vermorel Ampélographie. [1]


[1] Ampélographie. Tome 2 / publiée sous la direction de P. Viala,…, V. Vermorel,… ; avec la collaboration de A. Bacon, A. Barbier, A. Berget… [et al.] 1901-1910. Bibliothèque nationale de France. URL: http://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb35281023z

[2] I was also inspired by Mannie Berk’s inclusion of the Bastardo variety in our most recent Madeira tasting booklet.

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A generous 17 year old Cotes du Rhone Villages

I was down to my last bottle of 2000 Domaine Les Aphillanthes, Cuvee du Cros, Cotes du Rhone Villages so when I saw it available on WineBid I grabbed a few bottles.  This is a dark, flavorful wine drinking at its peak which means it is very satisfying.  I love how Rhone wines can be pleasurable both in youth and maturity!

2000 Domaine Les Aphillanthes, Cuvee du Cros, Cotes du Rhone Villages –
Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. This is 100% Syrah aged in demi-muids. Alcohol 14.7%.  This is a generous wine with minerally black and red fruit accented by garrigue.  It still has power in reserve at this stage.  The fruit is plentiful and deep with the structure only noticeable towards the end.  Only bits of dry wood flavor peak through so the wine presents itself as a harmonious mouthful.  **** Now – 2019.

A very tasty wine from Umbria

Simply put if you need a red wine for daily drinking or a large party then look no further than the 2011 Castello Monte Vibiano Vecchio,  MonVi, Colli Perugini Rosso.  This is a Sangiovese based Bordeaux blend with a bit of bitterness and cocoa but it is very tasty.  It delivers a lot of satisfaction at only $13 per bottle.  I must thank Tim for pointing it out to me.  These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2011 Castello Monte Vibiano Vecchio,  MonVi, Colli Perugini Rosso – $13
Imported by Vini Inc.  This wine is a blend of 55% Sangiovese, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc which is fermented in stainless steel then aged in a mixture of stainless steel and oak.  Alcohol 14.5%.  This is really tasty.  For those in search of more information this a  moderately ripe wine with ripe texture, a black bitter element, and cocoa aftertaste.  It has watery acidity and a billowy structure which should support development for a year.  But why wait?  **(*) Now – 2019.

2015 Castello Monte Vibiano Vecchio,  Villa, Umbria – $10
Imported by Vini Inc.  This is 100% Sangiovese made from the youngest vines and raised entirely in stainless steel.  Alcohol 14 %.  This is a firm wine with slightly bitter black fruit, acidity, and fine texture.  *(*) Now.

Old-school 1979 De Forville Barbaresco

April 25, 2017 1 comment

I opened the 1979 De Forville, Barbaresco on a whim when I found out a dinner guest at our house is another wine lover.  I picked up this bottle from Chambers Street Wine a year or two ago on the recommendation of Jamie.  De Forville is a 19th century estate which, according to the Wasserman’s, produced this wine using the traditional methods of long skin contact and long cask aging.  The 1979 vintage was uneven but I suspect the traditional winemaking and careful storage ensured that it arrived at my table in fine shape.  This bottle fleshed out then peaked after 15 to 30 minutes.  It is more complex in the mouth and when opened up, reveals mouth filling old-school flavors.  I happily savored the last glass while I read a mystery book.

1979 De Forville, Barbaresco
Imported by T. Elenteny Imports.  Alcohol 13%.  The cranberry with mixed red fruit nose reveals that the wine is very much alive.  In the mouth the flavors of leather and red fruit soon flesh out a bit.  This is an old-school wine with plenty of grip and acidity.  It becomes more complex in the mouth adding black fruit, wood notes, and an inky bit.  It wraps up with ethereal ripeness in the aftertaste.  **** Now but will last.

New releases from Domaine des Pasquiers of the Rhone

Phil has imported the wines of Domaine des Pasquiers for three years now.  The trio of 2015 Rhone wines in this post represents the latest offering.  2015 is quite a vintage and all of these wines show significant flavor and stuffing.  Of the trio, my favorite is the 2015 Domaine des Pasquiers, Cote du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu.  It is deep, flavorful, and has grip that I like.  As with any proper Cotes du Rhone it will drink well over the next several years.  The 2015 Domaine des Pasquiers, Cotes du Rhone Villages Sablet is definitely young and in need of age.  I could see it outstep the Plan de Dieu once it is mature but for a bit of raisin flavor.  Maybe everything will come together in a couple years, in that case this could be a bit of a sleeper.  The 2015 Domaine des Pasquiers, Gigondas follows is the house style of modern Gigondas.  While I prefer more funk this is certainly impressive with fat notes and a very long aftertaste to boot. These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2015 Domaine des Pasquiers, Cote du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu – $15
Imported by MacArthur Liquors.  Alcohol 14.5%.  This is a very dark, grapey red color.  The familiar, deep flavor leans more towards red fruit than black and is supported by strong, very fine tannic structure and watering acidity.  With air herbs and a bit of inkinesss come out.  It is certainly very flavorful with a touch of compelling grip, lots of flavor, and a dense almost chocolate finish.  *** Now – 2022.

2015 Domaine des Pasquiers, Cotes du Rhone Villages Sablet – $15
Imported by MacArthur Liquors.  Alcohol 14.5%.  This wine plays it close with black fruited, powdery ripe flavor.  There is extract and just the right amount of acidity.  The very fine drying structure and wood notes indicate it needs a year or two for integration.  The one distraction are fleeting flavors of raisins.  **(*) 2018-2024.

2015 Domaine des Pasquiers, Gigondas – $25
Imported by MacArthur Liquors.  Alcohol 14.5%.  This blue fruited wine is strong in flavor and strong in structure.  It is a dense, sexy with a modern personality of fat, minerals, and structure.  The aftertaste is persistent.  *** Now – 2027.

The 2015 Pierre Le Grand, Crozes-Hermitage is a savory, mouthful of wine

The 2015 Pierre Le Grand, Crozes-Hermitage must set a benchmark for dense flavor and strength when it comes to Crozes-Hermitage.  Perhaps it is atypical for the region but the wine is attractively savory, textured, and lively from acidity.  This is a lot to receive from a $20 Northern Rhone Syrah.  Give it a try!  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2015 Pierre Le Grand, Crozes-Hermitage – $20
Imported by Misa Imports.  This wine is 100% Syrah sources from 40 year old vines.  Alcohol 13%.  This is a dense, savory wine coupled with smooth edges.  There is ripe texture made more engaging by the lively acidity.  Though this wine has power it is still evocative of the Northern Rhone with its floral notes.  *** Now – 2023.

There are deep flavors in the 2013 Bosco, Dainero

Castiglion del Bosco produces several wines from Montalcino but also the flavorful Dainero from their vineyards in Riparbella.  Located near Bolgheri, Riparbella is also an area conducive to the Bordeaux varieties.  The 2013 Castiglion del Bosco, Dainero, Tuscany shows off as a successful blend of mostly Merlot with a touch of Sangiovese. It is ultimately quite tasty with the additional benefits of texture, almost lively acidity, and surprising depth.  It is a well-priced wine worth checking out.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2013 Castiglion del Bosco, Dainero, Tuscany – $18
Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines.  This wine is a blend of  90% Merlot and 10% Sangiovese fermented in stainless steel then aged for 6 months in a combination of new and used oak.  Alcohol 13%.  Deep red flavors overlay minerals and bright black fruit.  There is a good amount of acidity, almost bordering on lively, with texture and tang hitting the back of the mouth.  The wine plays it close with structure and brightness to support further development.  Development is no doubt possible because the wine has surprising depth to the pervasive, blue and black fruit flavors. *** Now – 2022.

An approachable Saint-Joseph

April 18, 2017 1 comment

The 2014 J.L. Chave, Offerus, Saint-Joseph is a fine example from the Northern Rhone.  It is pure in feeling and combines meat and fruit with floral and stone notes. It is already quite expressive yet has the personality to develop over the next several years.  I recommend you grab a few to drink both now and later.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2014 J.L. Chave, Offerus, Saint-Joseph – $30
Imported by Erin Cannon Imports.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The nose reveals aromas of meat coated with brighter red fruit.  This is a forward wine in the mouth with blue and black fruit mixed with floral hints.  It starts off with an open feeling partially due to minimal tannic structure and a hint of fat in the aftertaste.  With air this mineral infused wine is almost lip-smacking in flavor and reveals some tightness suggesting further development will take place.  ***(*) Now – 2025.

Ample, affordable flavor from Ventoux

April 17, 2017 1 comment

With spring break winding down it is time to start posting again.  Of good value and ripe for drinking is the 2015 Chateau Juvenal, Jolie, Cotes du Ventoux.  This is a deep, black fruited wine with a mineral middle which keeps things in perspective.  At $15 per bottle, this joint effort between Philippe Cambie and Chateau Juvenal, will please many people.  We have already pulled the corks on two bottles!  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2015 Chateau Juvenal, Jolie, Cotes du Ventoux – $15
Misa Imports.  This wine is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah sourced from 50+ year old vines.  Alcohol 15%.  This is a youthful wine with deep fruitiness that conveys richness from red then powdery black fruit.  Though rich with a smooth start, the wine becomes more focused with a mineral middle and dry finish.  *** Now – 2019.

Fun Grenache from Envinate

Envinate not only produces wines from the Canary Islands but from the mainland as well.  When I first opened the 2015 Viticultores Emilio Ramirez y Envinate, Albahra, Almansa I was immediately reminded of Des Tours.  This impression lasted for 15 minutes or so before the wine morphed from that ethereal ripeness to a dry, focused, mineral wine.  It is definitely worth checking out this unique wine. This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2015 Viticultores Emilio Ramirez y Envinate, Albahra, Almansa – $18
A Jose Pastor Selections imported by Llaurador Wines.  This wine is 100% Grenache fermented and raised in cement.  Alcohol 13.5%.  This is a textured, lively wine which begins with ethereal ripe flavors.  With air it becomes a dry, focused, mineral wine to drink over the next few years.  *** Now – 2020.