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Three CdP and a Ringer
Lou and I gathered outside to taste a small selection of Chateauneuf du Pape and one ringer. The 1978 Chapoutier, La Bernardine, Chateauneuf du Pape smells very good (it sports concentrated sweet aromas only brought by age) but the flavors do not deliver the same level of quality. The 1981 Monterey Peninsula Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Doctor’s Reserve, Monterey County smells OK but is interesting in the mouth. The nose certainly reflects the cooler climate of Monterey as do the tart flavors. A solid start.
The 2003 Les Cailloux (Brunel), Chateauneuf du Pape requires a bit of air to balance out. It is currently more complex and evolved (though will develop further) than the 2006 Domaine de Cristia, Chateauneuf du Pape. This later wine has good tension to support its future potential.
1978 Chapoutier, La Bernardine, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by Charles Lefranc Cellars. Alcohol 14%. In fine condition. Proper concentrated aromas are evocative of the 1960s and 1970s. In the mouth are bright flavors of tart, red fruit with bright acidity to carry it through. Unfortunately, the nose is more complex that in the mouth where the flavors hollow out at the finish. ** Drink Up.
1981 Monterey Peninsula Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Doctor’s Reserve, Monterey County
Alcohol 11.7%. Aromas of menthol and herbaceousness. A ripe hint in the mouth is soon followed by flavors of sweet tarts matched by chalky tannins. The wine builds in flavor, with the tart cherry core lasting throughout. An interesting wine. **(*) Now.
2003 Les Cailloux (Brunel), Chateauneuf du Pape
Alcohol 14.5%. The nose responds to air, improving with a deep note. It is initially quite ripe in flavor but this cleans up to reveal deep red, complex fruit, watering acidity, and ripe tannins. The fruit continues through the aftertaste. Quite enjoyable and certainly able to develop further over a few more years. ***(*) Now – 2032.
2006 Domaine de Cristia, Chateauneuf du Pape
Baking spices on the nose. More specifically Nuremberg Lebkuchen. A young, fresh wine which is ripe yet tense in balance with the acidity. The ripe, chewy tannins are attractive and so is the tangy acidity. In a markedly younger state than the Les Cailloux, it could stand further age to develop those bottle aged aromas and flavors. *** Now – 2035.
1983 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes
Chateau Rieussec was purchased by Albert Vuillier in 1971. He replanted many of the vineyards, which he acquired in a decayed state, and began purchasing new wood for aging the wine. The vineyards were planted to 89% Semillon, 8% Sauvignon, and 3% Muscadelle. For the 1983 vintage, nearly 50% of the wine would have been aged in new oak for 18-20 months.
Lafite-Rothschild purchased the estate in 1984 which explains why my bottle features a capsule marked Domaines Barons de Rothschild. With their arrival came a cryo-extractor in 1987 followed by a pneumatic press and air-conditioning for the chai in 1989. I purchased this bottle of 1983 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes nearly ten years ago at MacArthur Beverages. With a fill in the neck, it is in its prime of life. It improved across the second night, offering rich yet tense flavors. The strong 1983 vintage marks a bit of a re-birth for Sauternes and for Rieussec, a transition to a modern age.
1983 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes
A little pungent on the nose with sweet aromas of dried fruits. In the mouth are fresh flavors of tangerine with hints of lemon. It is medium-bodied with a rounded nature that is not too sweet as the acidity makes it tense and tart on the sides of the tongue. There are hints of gentle spices and caramel. With air it takes on a black tea note and spicy grip at the end. **** Now – 2030.
A Clos du Mont-Olivet Vertical: 2017 Cotes du Rhone back to 2005 La Cuvee du Papet
I was a guest at the most recent blind tasting held by Phil’s tasting group. Of the eight wines we tasted blind, one was a stinker, so we were left with seven bottles to deduce the theme. Two of the wines, #5 and #8, were clearly Chateauneuf du Pape but the firmness of the younger vintages and stylistic difference of the ringer through me for a loop. I will fess up that I had recently drunk wine #2 but I was still stumped. In retrospect, the theme of Clos du Mont-Olivet can be appreciated.
The Sabon family have been making wine at Clos du Mont-Olivet since 1932 with the estate now run by Thierry Sabon. The tasting featured one vintage of Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes, one vintage of Châteaneuf du Pape, and five vintages of Châteauneuf du Pape La Cuvee du Papet. The Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes we tried is a typical blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Carignan mostly sourced from vineyards planted in 1950. The fruit is partially destemmed then fermented with indigenous yeasts in cement tanks followed by aging in used foudre, demi-muids, and tanks. The Châteaneuf du Pape is a typical blend of 80% Grenache with Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault rounding things out. The fruit is partially destemmed then fermented with indigenous yeasts in cement tanks. It is aged in in foudre. The top wine of the estate is La Cuvee du Papet which is only made in the best vintages. It is a typical blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, and 10% Syrah sources from multiple parcels. The vines range in age from 30 to 100+ years of age since the oldest parcel of Grenache was planted in 1901. The fruit is partially destemmed then fermented with indigenous yeasts in cement tanks followed by aging in used foudre and demi-muids.
The 2017 Clos du Mont-Olivet, Vieilles Vignes, Cotes du Rhone is an excellent follow-on to the 2016 vintage. It is, however, a wine which needs time to develop and should drink well for a few years. The best wine to drink now and one of my favorites of the tasting is the awesome 2005 Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvee du Papet, Châteauneuf du Pape. Even better is the 2010 Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvee du Papet, Châteauneuf du Pape. This superlative pair offers a wine that has just hit its mature phase, the 2005, and a wine shedding its youth, the 2010. I went back to these bottles multiple times simply to drink them. I recommend you buy some so you can as well! Worth cellaring, is the very young yet outstanding 2016 Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvee du Papet, Châteauneuf du Pape. It has all the components for developing but is still firm. I’d give it several years of age at which point it should be obvious if it is as great as the 2010. Many thanks to Phil for hosting such an excellent tasting.
Blind #1 – 2017 Clos du Mont-Olivet, Vieilles Vignes, Cotes du Rhone –
Imported by Dionysos Imports. Alcohol 14.5%. Grapey scents on the nose. A young wine in the mouth with flavors of black and purple fruit with fine, dry and bitter structure in the end. With air it rounds and balances out. The ripe fruit has a touch of sweetness from a vanilla component. The flavors of blueberries and violets is carried by watering acidity. This is a mid-term ager that should significantly improve over the winter. *** Now – 2027.
Blind #2 – 2016 Clos du Mont-Olivet, Châteauneuf du Pape –
Imported by Dionysos Imports. Alcohol 15%. A good nose of red fruits. In this mouth this is a big wine with a spine of acidity. With air it opens up a touch offering creamy flavors of violets, black fruit, and a little wood box. With good depth it becomes firm in the end as a spicy structure comes out. It should be cellared. This bottle is tighter than a previous bottle I tried. ***(*) 2023- 2034.
Blind #3 – 2016 Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvee du Papet, Châteauneuf du Pape –
Imported by Dionysos Imports. Alcohol 15%. An aromatic nose of blue fruits. In the mouth this is a big wine with fine, strong tannins, and a powerful wave of flavor through the finish. Like the regular CdP, this is closely packed and in need of age. With air the wine has all of the components clearly focused for development. It is savory, intense, and even a little spicy. ****(*) 2024- 2039.
Blind #4 – 2015 Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvee du Papet, Châteauneuf du Pape –
Imported by Dionysos Imports. Alcohol 15%. A deeper, meaty nose. A watering start then the wine falls flat, compared to other vintages, offering vintage perfume notes, wood box, and baking spice. There are ample, fine and dry tannins. With air it improves to be lush yet not voluptuous with a deep, dry finish. The structure remains prominent compared to the fruit weight. A good wine in all respects but clearly overshadowed by the 2016. For the mid-term. ***(*) Now – 2029.
Blind #5 – 2010 Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvee du Papet, Châteauneuf du Pape –
Imported by Dionysos Imports. Alcohol 15%. Saline and dense, this wine packs in tons of flavors right through the powerful end. though powerful, it keeps focused with creamy bits, luxurious fat, and wood box maturity. It is still so young but is clearly a great wine. Unlike the outstanding 2005, this has the intensity of youth which hits the throat with a dose of fruity raspberries. ***** Now – 2034.
Blind #6 – 2010 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, Châteauneuf du Pape –
Imported by Kermit Lynch. Polished on the nose. In the mouth it is a little saline, dry and tart with red, citric fruit. It has fine focus for the long-haul with polished wood tannins. With air there is a subtle, lifted hint of fat, wood box, and a killer finish. This wine will be slow to develop. **** 2023-2039.
Blind #7 – 2006 Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvee du Papet, Châteauneuf du Pape –
Imported by Dionysos Imports. Alcohol 14%. A stinker, smells like air make it through the cork. Can’t stand it. Not Rated.
Blind #8 – 2005 Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvee du Papet, Châteauneuf du Pape –
Imported by Dionysos Imports. Alcohol 14%. Taking on some garnet in the glass. A good nose. The ripe fruit and fine wood box notes are clearly part of a more complex Southern Rhone wine. It lovely with young power that comes through. Fat and weighty flavors drape on the tongue with a sweet middle. This is a Chateauneuf du Pape with tons of future potential but you can enjoy it now became it has some bottle age flavor and concentrating ripeness. ****(*) Now – 2034.
An Additional Blind Wine – 1998 Domaine Bois De Boursane, Châteauneuf du Pape –
Alcohol 13.5%. Some umami mixing with red fruit and watering acidity into the salty, firm finish. There is good flavor for drinking right now. If you decant drink quickly. *** Now.
Excellent 2016 Gigondas from Bouissiere, Cayron, Mourchon, Raspail-ay, and Soumade
I recently tasted through five different bottles of 2016 Gigondas and found very good quality throughout. The 2016 vintage provides wines for both early drinking and cellar potential. In both cases, there is plenty of supple fruit for enjoyment so you are not bogged down by any structure. The 2016 Domaine Mourchon, Gigondas and 2016 Domaine du Cayron, Gigondas are enjoyable right now. The Mourchon offers plenty of tasty fruit and becomes a little salty. The Cayron exhibits a strong personality due to its Kirsch aromas and flavors. Of the longer-lived wines, the 2016 Domaine La Bouissiere, Gigondas is savory, complex, and balanced with a more elegant, less fruit-forward nature compared to the next two. It is excellent and should improve further. There is an attractive strawberry flavor in the 2016 Domaine Raspail-Ay, Gigondas which sports ample baking spices and an inky finish. The 2016 Domaine la Soumade, Gigondas is dark flavored with more herbs and minerals. It will reach the greatest age at the slowest pace. The Boussiere, Raspail-Ay, and Soumade are my favorite of these five. They will be fascinating to taste several years from now.
2016 Domaine La Bouissiere, Gigondas – $30 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Dionysos Imports. This wine is a blend of 66% Grenache and 34% Syrah raised in vat and foudre. Alcohol 14.5%. Kirsch on the nose. With air, it develops clean bright red flavors which are savory and dense. There is an attractive tension from the acidity which is balanced by the fruit and structure. It is lively on the tongue. With extended air it shows savory complexity with notes of pine and dried herbs. Excellent. **** Now – 2030.
2016 Domaine du Cayron, Gigondas – $36 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Roanoke Valley Wine. This wine is a blend of 78% Grenache, 14% Syrah, 6% Cinsault, and 2% Mourvedre raised in foudre. Alcohol 14%. Very aromatic with Kirsch and berries. In the mouth are pure, weight flavors of Kirsch with a fine, powerful structure in the finish. It clearly reflects the intensity of the vintage. With air, the core of fruit becomes more expansive yet is still lively on the tongue. For the medium-term. **** Now – 2027.
2016 Domaine Mourchon, Gigondas – $25 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. A special selection just for MacArthur Beverages. Alcohol 14.5%. Easy to drink red fruit first greets then a vein of black fruit and acidity come out. This is a forward wine for early drinking. It take some a salty nature with air. ***(*) Now – 2025.
2016 Domaine Raspail-Ay, Gigondas – $36 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Michael Corso Selections. This wine is an approximate blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre. Alcohol 15%. Dark and lush in the mouth with Kirsch poking through. The acidity grows subtly in prominence as the flavors take on baking spice and bluer fruit by the finish. There is a fine structure that is always supportive and not obtrusive. The ability to age is revealed with air. The wine becomes redder with strawberry flavors, lovely ripe baking spices, and an inky finish. It is always in balance. **** Now – 2030.
2016 Domaine la Soumade, Gigondas – $36 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. Alcohol 15%. Focused flavors with a black fruited start. Minerals and herbs first develop then a perfumed, creamy finish and eventually a salty note. This is a dense wine with rounded edges which will slowly unfurl with age. With air the wine shows a cool, dense nature, dark fruit, fine texture, and a black, mineral and herb influenced finish. It is a young wine that will age slower than all of the others. **** Now – 2034.
For the cellar: 2016 J.L. Chave Selection, Offerus, Saint-Joseph
Just a quick tasting note for today. The 2016 J.L. Chave Selection, Offerus, Saint-Joseph is a good selection for the cellar. Whereas I found the 2014 vintage appropriate for current consumption, this 2016 vintage has the acidity and structure to support aging. It also takes time in the glass to slowly reveal its complexity with air suggesting the flavors age. There is interest throughout, from the meaty nose to the violets in the mouth.
2016 J.L. Chave Selection, Offerus, Saint-Joseph – $30 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Erin Cannon Imports. Alcohol 13.5%. Slightly meaty on the nose. There are initial flavors of blue and black fruit, herbs, and brown sugar carried by almost citric acidity. There is good texture in the mid-palate with a very fine structure to support development. With air, the finely delineated black fruit takes on an interesting violet and purple fruit notes. You may drink this now but these are early days for this wine. ***(*) Now – 2029.
Chinon from Alliet, Baudry, and Joguet
I followed all three of these Chinon over the course of two days. For immediate drinking, I highly recommend you try the 2017 Domaine Bernard Baudry, Le Domaine, Chinon. I love an earthy hint in my wine and the Baudry provides just that both in aroma and flavor. It is a compelling example of Chinon. The 2018 Philippe Alliet, Chinon is young right now as it remains firm in the glass. There is good material in there so lay it down for a year. I found the 2017 Charles Joguet, Cuvee Terroir, Chinon tart yet full of stone notes. It is, perhaps, an early drinking wine but with the price similarity I’d grab the Alliet and Baudry.
2018 Philippe Alliet, Chinon – $22 at MacArthur Beverages
A Thomas Calder Selection imported by Potomac Selections. Alcohol 13%. A dark, grapey purple. Not quite as tart as the Joguet, there is a fine vein of dark red fruit, juicy acidity, and hints of pastilles. It is mineral in the end with a bit of lift in the aftertaste. With air, the fruit remains clean flavored but it picks up some salt before the firm finish. *** 2021-2026.
2017 Domaine Bernard Baudry, Le Domaine, Chinon – $24 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Louis/Dressner. This wine is 100% Cabernet Franc sourced from 30-35 year old vines, fermented in cement vats then aged 15 months in concrete and wood vats. Aromas of bright fruit with earth then scented black pepper and herbs. Similar flavors in the mouth with juicy acidity. The earth mixes well with the black fruit. There is a good cut of acidity throughout with minerals and earth in the finish. Young yet very good. ***(*) Now – 2024.
2017 Charles Joguet, Cuvee Terroir, Chinon – $22 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Kermit Lynch. Alcohol 13%. Tart red and black fruit with tart acidity before it develops minerals and stone notes. There is some ethereal weight. ** Now – 2022.
A tasting with Lou: Sandlands, Sanguis, Soumade and more
Lou and I gathered quite a while ago to drink some randomly selected wines. A new wine for me is the NV Phillippe Tessier, Phil’en Bulle. It is a little sweet for me so perhaps better with dessert. Of particular note is the white wine 2017 Linne Calodo, Contrarian, Paso Robles. I should also note the very young 2016 Domaine la Soumade, Cuvee Prestige, Rasteau which, with several years of age, will become a very good wine. 2017 Sandlands Vineyards, Red Table Wine, Contra Costa County is a young wine for drinking now. A solid bottle of 1989 Raymond Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, Napa Valley delivered surprise and pleasure. A pair of Sanguis offered a fun comparison even if they should have been drunk up a few years ago. The 2011 Sanguis, 11-A, John Bastiano is very clean, chalky, and full of verve. For a brief bit, I preferred the luxury of the 2011 Sanguis, 11-B, Bienacido but it sadly cracked up after a short period.
NV Phillippe Tessier, Phil’en Bulle, Loire
A Zev Rovine Selection imported by Fruit of the Vine. Alcohol 12.5%. A slightly hazy, light straw yellow. Very fine and strong bubbles carry the ripe, sweetish start. Some yeast the short finish. **(*) Now.
2017 Linne Calodo, Contrarian, Paso Robles
This is a blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Picpoul Blanc, and 20% Viognier. Alcohol 13.7%. Refreshing with good acidity white nuts and expansive flavor. A core of tropical fruit remains but the gum, coating texture adds presence. Notes of pastilles in the finish. **** Now – 2022.
2011 Sanguis, 11-A, John Bastiano, Santa Rita Hills
Alcohol 14%. A very light color with a green tinge. A little toast on the nose eventually blows off. Tart with some berry toast. Clean with chalk and yellow fruit. Plenty of verve. ** Now.
2011 Sanguis, 11-B, Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley
Alcohol 14.8%. A touch more fruit and weight, oily in the middle with a steely finish. Racy with good balance, it has some toast flavors. With air it begins to crack up revealing acidity and heat. *** at best but Past Prime.
2017 Sandlands Vineyards, Red Table Wine, Contra Costa County
A blend of Carignan and Mataro. Alcohol 12.9% Grapey with cranberry flavor and chalky tannins. Tart with crunchy acidity this sports an interesting mineral, fruit blend. *** Now – 2022.
2016 Domaine la Soumade, Cuvee Prestige, Rasteau
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. Alcohol 14.5%. A grapey, young color and tight, grapey nose. Tight in the mouth but there is a lovely vein of fruit through the linear structure. Beautiful fat from the ripeness, it is powerful, building flavor. ***(*) 2024-2034.
1989 Raymond Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, Napa Valley
Mature with Eucalyptus. Some firmness in the mouth but the Cab flavor comes out. In fresh shape this is a tasty wine with focused, ripe fruit, some dry wood notes, and structure in the end. *** Now.
Seriously good: 2017 J.L. Chave Selection, Mon Coeur, Cotes du Rhone
Cotes du Rhone prices seem to be ticking up this fall (independent of new tariffs). If I must spend more on a daily-drinker then I want something serious. The 2017 J.L. Chave Selection, Mon Coeur, Cotes du Rhone fits the bill. Ultimately recommend by a fellow wine friend, this is ideal Cotes du Rhone: it drinks well right now and will continue to do so for years to come as it gains bottle age complexity. I have already gone through several bottles myself! Though not in one sitting.
2017 J.L. Chave Selection, Mon Coeur, Cotes du Rhone – $18 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Erin Cannon Selections. This wine is a blend of Syrah and Grenache sourced from vines both in and around Chateauneuf du Pape. Alcohol 14.5%. Earth notes with some sweet wood box. A structured wine with wood tannins which frame fresh and juicy fruit flavors. Firm flavors of black cherry start then a red fruit component gets lift from the the tart acidity. Though attractive now, with easy-going generous fruit, these flavors are balanced by structural components which will support further age. ***(*) Now – 2029.
A Crozes with Stuffing
The 2017 Emmanuel Darnaud, Mise en Bouche, Crozes-Hermitage is Crozes with a substantial amount of fruit. It provides plenty of pleasure right now yet it also has enough supporting components to develop for a few years. In fact, I recommend you give it at least half a year for further integration. It is the sort of wine which makes me curious to try more Crozes-Hermitage.
2017 Emmanuel Darnaud, Mise en Bouche, Crozes-Hermitage – $22 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Fruit of the Vines. This wine is 100% Syrah fermented in concrete vats then aged in 1/3 new oak barrels. Alcohol 13%. Very grapey with black fruit, baking spices and watering acidity. A good show from the start with medium-dense flavors, some toast, and fat in the finish. ***(*) Now – 2024.