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A Blind Tasting of 2005 Bordeaux with a Rioja
At the very end of the summer, I was a guest of Andy for the monthly wine tasting. We first gathered around his kitchen to eat from huge wedges of cheese and drink from a bottle of 2017 Matanzas Creek Winery, Chardonnay, Alexander Valley. It is quite good all around, there is a balanced quartet of yellow fruit, body, acidity, and wood influence. It is a wine I recommend drinking again.
The tasting itself consisted of eight wines served blind. They had been opened some four hours prior. We knew one bottle was corked which logically left us with 6 bottles on theme and 1 ringer. There was a Bordeaux flavor profile to most bottles but the lightness and herbaceous quality of the first two had my sights first set to Chile. Then came the third wine with its ripe fruit, weight, and minerality and I was no longer certain of the theme. It was clear, though, that the last wine was the ringer.
This assortment of 2005 Bordeaux from Pauillac, Saint-Estephe, and Saint-Julien varied in quality. I found the 2005 Chateau Lagrange, Saint-Julien as my clear favorite and very satisfying to drink. It is coming into a fine mid-life which should last for a bit of time. I do not mind the herbaceous note I found in my next two favorites: the 2005 Chateau Saint-Pierre, Saint-Julien a good value which is very mineral and the 2005 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre, Saint Julien. The latter is rounded, yet closely played and in need of several more years in the cellar. The 2005 Cos D’Estournel, Saint-Estephe under performed and did not exhibit to the potential of the label. Sadly, the 2005 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac was completely undrinkable. Finally, the 2005 CVNE, Imperial Rioja Reserva stood out for its young, red fruit. I found it hard to judge coming after the other wines.
1 – 2005 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre, Saint Julien
Imported by Appellation Imports. Alcohol 13.5%. A dark cherry with garnet color. Aromatic with notes of cedar mixing in blue and red fruit. A good nose somewhat herbaceous. Bordeaux like in the mouth with round black fruit, a dry finish, and some fine structure in the end. Expertly made and closely played, it shows more ripe fruit and structure with air. Best given a few more years in the cellar. ***(*) 2022-2032.
2 – 2005 Chateau Haut-Bages-Liberal, Pauillac
Imported by Benchmark wines. Alcohol 13%. Very dark. More herbaceous on the nose with blue fruit. A touch more structure yet also more suppleness. Less intensity with watering acidity and more tannins on the gums. A short finish. It could use more time for the structure to resolve but this bottle might now have the fruit for it. *** Now – 2029.
3 – 2005 Chateau Lagrange, Saint-Julien
Imported by Chateaux + Estates. Alcohol 13%. A more complex wine with ripe flavors, weight, and minerals. The primarily blue and black fruit has a green hint but it weighty with good length. A fresh structure throughout it is redder in the middle. My favorite. **** Now – 2034.
4 – 2005 Chateau D’Armailhac, Pauillac
Imported by North Lake Wines. Alcohol 13%. Some brett on the nose. Interesting, tart red fruit with a fine tannic finish that is quite grippy on the gums. Animale flavors in the finish. *** Now – 2029.
5 – 2005 Cos D’Estournel, Saint-Estephe
Imported by Chateaux + Estates. Alcohol 13.5%. Less aromatic. More licorice-like in the flavor, a touch racy with large amounts of flavor. Dark in the finish. It just does not deliver the balanced goods. A drinkable bottle but under-performing based on the reveal. **(*) Now – 2029.
6 – 2005 Chateau Saint-Pierre, Saint-Julien
Imported by Liquidlink. Alcohol 13%. Low-lying on the nose. The wine shows substance but also some herbaceous qualities. Blue and black flavored with a mineral vein. In fact, the mineral vein persisted throughout the tasting. ***(*) Now – 2029.
7 – 2005 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac
Imported by Heritage Wine Cellars. Alcohol 13%. Corked! Not Rated.
8 – 2005 CVNE, Imperial Rioja Reserva
Alcohol 13.5%. Sweet cranberry and strawberry fruits, unevolved with watering acidity. Sweet oak. Develops intensity with air. Younger tasting than the other wines despite the completely integrated structure. *** Now – 2024.
A Pungoed Pair of Wines: Pesquera and Muga
One recent Friday, my friend with the Pungo invited me over for an impromptu tasting. While we started with Madeira, it was the pair of red Tempranillo wines that he Pungoed. Up first, the 2001 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez, Tinto Pesquera, Ribera del Duero is drinking at a very broad, maturing phase. From the very first dispensation, it is attractively aromatic with an irresistible blend of fruit, wood box, and minerals in the mouth. I really like this wine as it reflects the intensity of Ribera Del Duero and it has bottle age! While only three years younger, the 2004 Bodegas Muga, Rioja Reserva comes across as if from this decade. It is still grapey and a bit linear in presentation so I would try again in three years. Many thanks to my friend.
2001 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez, Tinto Pesquera, Ribera del Duero
Imported by Classical Wines from Spain. This wine is 100% Tempranillo aged for 18 months in 100% new American oak. Alcohol 13.5%. A good, dark color in the glass. A beautiful nose. In the mouth the wine is maturing yet invigorating. Dry flavors of red fruit mix with wood box notes and minerals. It is an intense wine, dry with fresh acidity, and glycerin-like body. **** Now – 2029.
2004 Bodegas Muga, Rioja Reserva
This wine is a blend of mostly Tempranillo with Mazuelo and Graciano that was fermented in oak vats then aged for 24 months in oak. Alcohol 12%. Grapey, much less evolved with some earthy minerals and crisp acidity. *** 2022 – 2029.
A modest López de Heredia tasting
I recently met up with Sudip to taste seven wines from López de Heredia; three Viña Gravonia, three Viña Bosconia, and one Viña Tondonia as a reference. López de Heredia dates back to the 19th century in Rioja but for our purposes we concentrated on relatively young vintages back to 1998. I was most curious to see how much vintage variation there is.
Of the trio of 2004, 2002, and 1998 Viña Gravonia I much preferred the oldest vintage. All of the wines bear oxidized, apple orchard aromas and flavors but the 1998 sports the least being the most vinous. It has zippy acidity with some ripeness to the flavors. The 2000 was pungent, evocative of mushrooms and the simplest. The 2004 is clearly the youngest. It is crisp with tart lemon and clean flavors. I found it a bit tight and think it will drink better several years down the road. Once these wines develop they should hold well for years. For those who have yet to taste Gravonia it is unique.
All of the red wines were double-decanted. The 1999 Viña Bosconia quickly became and remained my favorite Bosconia for current drinking, in fact it is still young! It combines both fruit, damp earth, and bottle age, all delivered with tension. I expect further cellaring to be beneficial. The 2000 is muted and mature. The 2005 is young but already sports some earthy funk like the 1999. The structure and acidity is there for development, which is certainly will do, but our bottle of 1999 reveals greater potential.
Finally, the 2005 Viña Tondonia shows great potential. It is savory, young and dense in a way that there is stuffing for decades of aging supported by the structure. It is drinkable now but remains closely played. It is worth the extra $5 over the 2005 Viña Bosconia.
2004 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12.5%. The most aromatic with yeasty, apple orchard aromas. A touch more acidity in the mouth, tart lemon, clean, good body, and wood-like texture. Crisp. **(*) Now – 2023 then will last.
2002 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12.5%. A pungent nose of orchard fruit. A soft entry of mushroom-like flavor, then acidity and apple-orchard in the finish. The simplest of the trio. ** Now.
1998 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by USA Wine Imports. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12%. A golden honey color. Good nose. An oxidized hint though the wine is more vinous with apple-like, zippy acidity. There is modest body to the ethereal ripe flavors which cover the mouth but leave the middle slightly hollow. There less noticeable acidity in the end. *** Now but will last.
2005 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva – $35
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13.5%. Good fruit, cherry flavors, and a little earth have grapey density into the tart, cranberry middle. A young natured wine but already some attractive funk is present. With air a supporting, fine dry structure becomes evident with dry, black and red flavors in the finish. *** Now – 2028.
2000 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva
Imported by Polarn Selections. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. The most muted nose of the four reds with a bit of stink. A bit more mature in the mouth, red fruit, watering acidity, a touch of ink then sharper in the finish. With air it is dusty in the mouth with a similar profile but more pronounced sour cherry flavor. Not the best of the trio. *(*) Now.
1999 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva
Imported by USA Wine Imports. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. Aromatic with attractive damp earth notes. Fruiter in the mouth, cedar, bottle age flavors, and fine textured tannins add presence. There is citric tension and grip to add life. With air there remains a core of flavor which carries through the end with an aftertaste of sour cherries and acidity. ***(*) Now – 2028.
2005 López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Rioja Riserva – $40
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 5% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. Young, fruity, and dense. With air this savory wine shows body but also has the acidity and structure for it to age. Strong future potential. **** Now – 2038.
CVNE Older Vintage Tour with Carlos Delage, Deputy Export Director
It is a testament to winemaking with excellent parcels of fruit and aging in carefully maintained facilities, that I have consistently enjoyed several bottles of the 1964 CVNE, Vina Real Reserva Especial. I have drunk other vintages as well including the 1976 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva which was served by Carlos Delage, CVNE Deputy Export Director, at a luncheon in Washington, DC, during early April. What few seem to realize is that CVNE still produces complex, age-worthy traditional wines not only from legendary vintages but those which are overshadowed.
The glass of 2014 CVNE, Monopole Clasico which greeted us upon arrival is rooted in history. This wine was originally made in the 1960s and 1970s but then faded away to no longer be produced. When Victor Urrita, CVNE CEO, tasted a mature bottle of the 1979, he was so impressed he took the only logical next step; he contacted the winemaker himself, Ezequiel Garcia.
So famed were the CVNE wines produced by Ezequiel Garcia during the 1960s and 1970s that he earned the nickname El Brujo or “The Wizard”. It is his vintages of Vina Real Reserva Especial and Imperial Gran Reserva that savvy wine drinkers covet today. However, his Monopole Clasico has remained obscure until it was resurrected with the 2014 vintage.
Not to be confused with the regular Monopole, the Monopole Clasico is unique in Rioja history as it features a good portion of Sherry. Unlike any other wine, this is a blend of Viura with 15% Manzanilla sourced from the Hidalgo family. The wine is then aged in a combination of American oak and Sherry bota. Incredibly, CVNE is still in possession of the 1970s letter granting permission to bottle this wine as Rioja. We all enjoyed a glass as we gathered for the luncheon. I found it light and fresh with an attractive, oily body throughout and Sherry background note.
Once seated, we started off with an tremendous glass of 2004 Contino, Rioja Reserva. From an excellent vintage, this is a wine generous in flavor and capable of long age. In my post Delicious and historic, the 1974 Contino, Rioja Reserva I describe the very first vintage as “age-defying”. With the 2004 demonstrating potential for that same descriptor, an array of CVNE Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva illustrats the evolution of wine through the excellent 2010 and 2005 vintages along with the very good 1998 and good 1976 vintages. The former are still in a development phase but while the 1998 is still structured, it is now gaining complexity from maturity.
The ability for a wine to age is of no importance unless it not only tastes good but also develops the unique flavors from bottle age. The 1976 tasted at lunch was the best of the two examples I have tasted over the past year, no doubt because it came straight from CVNE. While it reflects the modest vintage in its gentleness, it has taken on that slightly sweet, concentrated fruit flavor that I love in good wines over 40 years of age. If this is the peak of the 1976 vintage then I can only imagine the heights that the 2010 and 2005 vintages will achieve.
Many thanks to Carlos Delage (CVNE), Gloria Zapatero (CVNE), and Rob McFarlane (Elite Wines) for inviting to the luncheon.
2004 Contino, Rioja Reserva
Alcohol 14.5%. The youngest looking of the first three wines. Still has a grapey color and is highly aromatic on the nose. This is forward, promptly filling the mouth as floral and spiced flavors come out in the middle. It is showing beautifully with a fresh, almost menthol note, hints of sweet oak, and a finish of minerals and good funk. It wraps up with a kick of freshness. ****(*) Now – 2038.
1998 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
The nose is complex with red and black fruits with spices. In the mouth the red fruit is taking on maturity. The watering acidity carries the sweet and powdery red fruit. There is some chewy texture from structure and even a little tartness. Though entering maturity it will develop for some time. ***(*) Now – 2028.
1976 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
Alcohol 13%. A clear, light to medium garnet. The nose still offers modest depth and meat aromas. In the mouth is a start of focused red fruit then beautiful powdery, cherry fruit flavors. The wine is lithe and light through the middle, carried by watering acidity into a gentle finish. It develops notes of old wood, slightly sweet concentrated fruit, and meat. **** Now but will last.
2010 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
Very dark in color and still concentrated in the mouth. With youthful vigor, the flavors are held close but are not tight. There is ripe fruit and racy texture providing the stuffing for years of age. The oak still needs time to integrate. It has a long future over which it will improve. **** 2020-2038.
2005 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
The grapey dark color stains the glass. There is a cherry note at first then as the wine slowly opens up black licorice and fresh herbs. It has strength for development. ***(*) 2020-2030.
2012 CVNE, Graciano
This was vinified in oak then aged for 18 months in new French oak. This is very young with tight flavors. A menthol note mixes with the blue and black fruit which is almost bitter. Certainly unique. *** 2023-2030.
Our host Carlos Delage, CVNE Deputy Export Director
A tasting of Hermanos Peciña Rioja from 2016-2001
Bodegas Hermanos Pecina was founded in 1992 by Pedro Peciña who was the vineyard manager of La Rioja Alta. The wines are fashioned using the traditional methods of Rioja first developed in the 19th century. I particularly enjoy traditional Rioja so after first tasting a Peciña wine six years ago, I have shared bottles with others. When it came time for us to host a dinner for a group of co-workers and friends I took the opportunity to serve as many different bottlings as I could.
The wines of Hermanos Peciña are imported by The Rare Wine Co. so I turned to Mannie Berk from whom I was able to purchase nine different wines. For background information on the wines I recommend you check out the RWC Hermanos Peciña page where you may also purchase some of the selections we tasted.
Recommendations
For current drinking I recommend the 2016 Hermanos Peciña, Rioja Cosecha which is grapey, yet surprisingly deep for a young wine. I strongly recommend you seek out the 2011 Hermanos Peciña, Rioja Reserva. This was the first bottle finished and group favorite, of which I agree! It is entering its first drinkable phase so you can follow it over the next decade.
Traditional Rioja is capable of slowly developing complexity over a long period of time. This in part stems from long aging in used American oak. This capability is clearly reflected in the Gran Reserva and Vendimia Seleccionada bottles. The 2010 Hermanos Peciña, Finca Iscorta de Pecina, Rioja Gran Reserva is the tightest and in need of the most cellar age. This single vineyard wine possesses power yet also balance. Both the 2009 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Gran Reserva and 2003 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Gran Reserva are in development. Hints of maturity come out on the nose or in the palate but these vintages are still clinging to youth.
The 2001 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada is another wine that you should seek out. Widely regarded as an excellent vintage in Rioja, this bottle is just coming into its own which allows you to experience this great year. Pure in flavor with juicy acidity there is a luxurious mouthfeel with texture in the finish.
Tasting Notes
2016 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Cosecha
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 3% Garnacha from the youngest vines averaging 15-25 years of age. Aged in stainless steel and no oak. Grapey but deep in flavor with fresh fruit. Moderate weight, modest structure, and a little acidity. A good young wine. ** Now – 2020.
2013 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Crianza
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Garnacha sourced from three vineyards with vines averaging 30-60 years of age. Aged for 2 years in American oak. Scented fruit on the nose. More weight in the mouth, creamy blue fruit, a bit robust but water acidity keeps things lively. The structure comes in at the end with very fine tannins and firm hints of wood. Might develop some more. ** Now – 2022.
2006 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Crianza magnum
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Garnacha sourced from three vineyards with vines averaging 30-60 years of age. Aged for 2 years in American oak. Quite mature on the nose; the aromas are good. In the mouth are sweet, red fruit flavors, sweat, and a bit of roast earth. It becomes a bit dirty with air such that I can’t help but think this is a sub par bottle. Not Rated.
2011 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Reserva
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Garnacha sourced from 35-60 year old vines. Aged for 3 years in American oak. A brooding nose of licorice and tobacco. A tart, black fruited start then a creamy middle with tobacco and texture. A strong future with the most potential out of all wines. Really quite good, a group favorite. **** Now – 2028.
2009 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Gran Reserva
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Garnacha sourced from 60-70 year old vines. Aged for 4 years in American oak. Meaty with slightly sweet aromas make for a good nose. This is certainly young as evidenced by the grip yet there is a mature edge to the flavor. Watering acidity and hints of wood carry it on. ***(*) Now – 2035.
2003 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Gran Reserva
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Garnacha sourced from 60-70 year old vines. Aged for 4 years in American oak. Good nose, aromatic, and much more mature than the 2009. The wine is open in the mouth with gentle, yet focused fruit which does not taste mature until the finish. It is supported by citric acidity. A slow ager. ***(*) Now – 2030.
2010 Hermanos Peciña, Finca Iscorta de Pecina, Rioja Gran Reserva
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Garnacha, and 2% Graciano sourced from 50 year old vines at the Finca Isacorta Vineyard. Modern, tight and lean right now. Black fruited with a creamy edge. All components are perfectly balanced with a subtle hint of vanilla which will integrate. **** 2023-3035.
2006 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Garnacha sourced from 30-60 year old vines. Aged for 3 years in American oak. Still young at first, meaty with roast notes then with air fully mature flavors come out. This is a round wine with a soft start. The structure slowly builds supporting sour fruits in the end. *** Now – 2023.
2001 Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Garnacha sourced from 30-60 year old vines. Aged for 3 years in American oak. A bit tight at first though rounder with a coffee note. With air, a touch more power and almost juicy acidity. Pure flavors of largely red fruit but pure blue fruits and minerals come out in the end. Oily mouthfeel and right at the end, extract lends texture to the finish. **** 2020-2040.
Highly aromatic 1970 Bodegas Alavesas, Solar de Samaniego, Rioja
Bodegas Alavesas was founded in 1972 by the wealthy industrialist Miguel Angel Alonso Samaniego. A new winery was completed in 1973 in which wines were made from some several hundred hectares of owned vineyards and locally purchased fruit. In the early 1980s, the 1968 and 1970 vintages were considered amongst the best. Given these dates, it is clear that the winery jump-started production by bringing in purchased wine for maturation.
The two wood-aged red wines are named after 18th century Spanish poets. The top wine, Solar de Samaniego, was produced both as a Rioja Reserva and Rioja Gran Reserva. The 1970 Bodegas Alavesas, Solar de Samaniego, Rioja featured in this post represents the Reserva. As such it is a blend of approximately 90% Tempranillo with 10% Viura sourced from the Alavesas. The fruit for this wine was destemmed, fermented in concrete tank then spent 30 months in tank followed by 18 months in cask. The terroir, blend, and production contribute to the historic view that Bodegas Alavesas produced elegant wines.
This particular bottle offers up some of the most engaging aromas I have come across recently. Whereas I found campfire, red meat, and tangerines a friend succinctly stated “mesquite”. Upon drinking this elegant wine I was left wanting for more length but I did not mind as much for I kept returning to the nose. That is until we finished the bottle.
1970 Bodegas Alavesas, Solar de Samaniego, Rioja
Imported by The Rioja Wine Co. The nose smells of campfire and red meat then reveals aromas of red fruit, ripe oranges, and tangerines. The nose is the strong part of this wine, almost capable of capturing your full attention. In the mouth the flavors are elegant and very short, leaving me to wish for more length. Revisiting the nose time after time yields sweet, concentrated fruit aromas. **** for the nose alone but overall ** Now.
A Spanish pair of Tempranillo
Both of the wines in this post are made from Tempranillo yet one is from Ribera del Duero and the other from Rioja. The 2015 Alfredo Maestro, Almate, Ribera del Duero is new wine for me and I am pleased to write it is well made and quite tasty. The 2010 Sierra Cantabria, Rioja Reserva is the more serious of the two yet it is beautiful. It is clear that 2010 is an excellent vintage capable of developing for the next several years. These two wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.
2015 Alfredo Maestro, Almate, Ribera del Duero – $15
Imported by Llaurador Wines. This wine is 100% Tempranillo sourced from vines at 700 and 1,000 meters of elevation that was fermented in stainless steel then aged for four months in neutral French oak. Alcohol 14%. Flavors of cool, juicy fruit are carried by watering acidity over a fine structure. Quite tasty with a dry, graphite finish. *** Now – 2023.
2010 Sierra Cantabria, Rioja Reserva – $24
Imported by The Country Vintner. This wine is 100% Tempranillo aged 18 months in French and American oak barrels. Alcohol 14%. After a few hours of air this beautiful wine fills the mouth with powdery red and black fruit. There is some cocoa and only a hint of sweetness to the flavors. There is fresh acidity, but not out of balance for the flavor, spices, and dry baking spices in the gentle finish. ***(*) Now – 2028.
A tasting of Rioja from the great 1964 Vintage
The 1964 vintage in Rioja, considered the greatest of the 20th century, was not met with any fanfare in America nor in England. It was not because the top wines, only bottled in the 1970s and released as late as 1980, were unavailable to taste. Throughout the 1960s Rioja was still viewed as the best wine of Spain but it was the opinion, as expressed by Ronald Avery, that in the hierarchy of wines Rioja was equivalent to “a decent little claret”. As such Rioja only received attention as an alternative inexpensive wine.
This was not always the case. Between the World Wars the Bodegas Paternina Rioja Riserva cost as much as Chateau Lafite in America. When Bordeaux prices soared in America during the early 1970s, attention turned back to Rioja. Still viewed as the “less sophisticated cousin of Bordeaux” low prices meant the wines of Rioja became imported in increasingly larger quantities. In 1976, nearly three dozen Rioja producers hired a public relations firm in America. Success must have been achieved for the next year Frank J. Prial wrote in The New York Times that “Red Rioja Wine Is Excellent”.
There was widespread coverage of the 50th anniversary of the 1964 Rioja vintage. Decanter magazine found it a vintage to drink soon with some wines tired but the best wines are “still fruity and intense”. I decided to host my own tasting based on my positive experience with several different bottles shared by Mannie Berk, The Rare Wine Co., and my recent CVNE Viña Real and Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva from 1976-1964 tasting. This past weekend I gathered a group to explore nine different wines from seven different producers. This is no small feat for there were just over two dozen producers who bottled the 1964 vintage.
We departed from our usual Champagne start to one of very old German wines. At the CVNE tasting, the Rieslingfeier event and scarcity of old vintages was of topic which prompted one very generous guest to share three 100+ year old wines as well as a bottle from the 1964 vintage. This unprecedented vertical of the vintages 1964, 1915, 1905, and 1898 are all Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Auslese from Weingut Franz Karl Schmitt.
These four bottles were purchased at the Sotheby’s auction of the Don Stott cellar. Our generous guest has drunk wine with Don Stott so with knowledge of the cellar and the uniqueness of the opportunity, the wines were acquired.
Weingut Franz Karl Schmitt was founded in 1549 and has been in family possession ever since those days. It was in 1900 that Franz-Karl Schmitt, grandfather of the current owner, produced the first trockenbeerenauslese in Rheinhessen from the Flaschenhahl vineyard in Hipping. The four bottles we tasted bear variations in name: Franz Karl Schmitt, Hermann Franz Schmitt, and Hermannshof. They are all from the same winery bearing new labels and corks. The later marked with Herrmannshof Neuverkorkt 1998.
The label on the oldest bottle from 1898 does not indicate the grape. Nierstein is home to Sylvaner and in 1910 only 15% of it was planted with Riesling. It is possible this is a blend of Riesling and Sylvaner which echoes a comment Michael Broadbent made about the 1921 Niersteiner Hermannshof TBA. I should also point out this bottle is a Cabinetwein indicating a special wine historically kept in a separate part of the cellar.
The wines were served one at a time out of purposefully procured small wine glasses. This gave us the collective opportunity to taste the wines within minutes of the bottle being opened and individually decide if we wanted to keep the wine around any longer.
All of the wines are in much better shape than I expected. The 1898 Franz Karl Schmitt, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Auslese Cabinetwein, Rheinhessen with honied aromas and medium body, quickly recalibrated my expectations. There is pure pleasure here. Delicacy came in the form of the 1905 Hermann Franz Schmitt, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen which did soon fade to reveal piercing acidity in the finish. The 1915 Hermannshof, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen is unequivocally great from the nose to the pure marmalade flavors, minerals, and unctuous, glycerin filled body. At 102 years of age, the higher residual sugar and acidity will ensure many more years of pleasure. In fact, the dregs of the bottle drank well at the end of the evening.
With respect to the three oldest bottles, vintage variation aside, there is a sense of continuity in flavor from herbs and apricots. In returning to the wines I was left with the feeling that the 1898 and 1905 were made using similar methods whereas the 1915 was made by a different hand. However, vintages do matter which accounts for the unctuous 1915 and round, racy 1964 Hermannshof, Niersteiner Kehr Und Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen. These wines deserve a closer historical look so I will write a follow up post in the near future.
We cleansed our palates with the textured NV Grands Comptoirs Champenois, Champagne Brut Comte de Vic. This is a late 1980s to early 1990s release with fully mature flavors, yeast, and never-ending texture. I found it best on the second night, once again highlighting that a non-vintage Champagne may deserve careful aging.
Fate finally caught up with me for four of our 1964 Rioja bottles were affected by TCA leaving five to be enjoyed. All of these wines were double-decanted before being served in flights of three. The most surprising wine is the 1964 Campo Viejo, Rioja which is the basic wine made just one year after the founding of the winery. In fact Campo Viejo switched facilities in 1965. This wine still reveals ripe fruit mixed with spices made possible by the comparatively short time spent in oak.
My favorites include the 1964 Riojanas, Monte Real, Rioja Gran Reserva, the 1964 Gomez Cruzado, Honorable, Rioja Gran Reserva , and the 1964 Bodegas Montecillo, Vina Monty, Rioja. Incredibly, the Monte Real appears to still be developing due to youthful focus. The Gomez Cruzado never lost all of its bottle stink but in the mouth it is crisp with wood notes and certainly a wine to try again. I found the Montecillo, the only all Tempranillo wine we tasted, the roundest.
These particular wines show the success achieved with Tempranillo based blends based on old, dry-farmed, bush vines raised with the traditional method of long oak aging. This method of winemaking developed in the 19th century based on Bordeaux techniques and adopted to what was best for Rioja. They are not fragile when exposed to air and all have a good spine of acidity which allows them live on. The tasting also reminds us that there are no guarantees with old bottles.
Please find my tasting notes below. You will notice a larger than usual number of dinner wine notes at the end. The Madeira collector Bob Stern, whom I first met several years ago, was in town and able to join. He has taken his passion one step further and is now importing Madeira from H. M. Borges. Thus he could present an array of samples for us to taste.
I could not have organized this tasting without Mannie Berk, The Rare Wine Co., offering me his precious bottles of Rioja. I must also thank our generous guest who, in sharing his German wines, ensured a once in a lifetime experience to taste three German wines older than one century.
A German Start
1898 Franz Karl Schmitt, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Auslese Cabinetwein, Rheinhessen
Shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines. Imported by Wine Cellars. Tagged The Don Stott Cellar. Recorked in 1998. New labels. A very clear, tawny amber color. The nose is touched by boytrtis with honied aromas, fresh herbs, and tea. The flavors are drier than expected, of medium body, and of sharp yet focused acidity. The body speaks of remarkable condition as tangy, lemon citrus flavors come out in the middle, all of it persisting through the long finish. ***(*) Now.
1905 Hermann Franz Schmitt, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen
Shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines. Imported by Wine Cellars. Tagged The Don Stott Cellar. Recorked in 1998. New labels. A very clear, lighter tawny amber with a touch more yellow. There is a botrytis touch as well but this is the most delicate wine of the quartet of old Germans. It too is dry with fresh and bright acidity, herbs, and a savory, short finish. It dries out quicker revealing piercing acidity in the end. ** Now.
1915 Hermannshof, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen
Shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines. Imported by Wine Cellars. Tagged The Don Stott Cellar. Recorked in 1998. New labels. The darkest being tawny in color. This still smells great. In the mouth it is unctuous and mineral infused with plenty of forward body. Flavors of apricot and peach mix with orange marmalade. This is a good wine with round, glycerin body. **** Now – 2027.
1964 Hermannshof, Niersteiner Kehr Und Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen
Shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines. Imported by Wine Cellars. Tagged The Don Stott Cellar. Recorked in 1998. New labels. Of yellow straw the color is the lightest and the nose the most subtle. One is not prepared for the much sweeter and rounded flavors in this unctuous wine. There is still ripe fruit, fine tea notes, and a racy character. **** Now – 2027.
Palate Cleansing Champagne
NV Grands Comptoirs Champenois, Champagne Brut Comte de Vic
Imported by The RareWine Co. Alcohol 12%. A very clear amber color. It is best on the second day. There are very fine, strong bubbles which quickly form a mousse that adds ripe texture to the start. Flavors of ripe white then yellow fruit mix with yeast and mature notes. With air ripe spices come out in the watering finish. ***(*) Now but will last.
1964 Rioja
1964 Bilbainas, Clarete Fino, Rioja Gran Reserva
Founded in 1901 by Santiago Ugarte, the son of a wine negociant, during the Rioja phylloxera epidemic. The main winery was built at Barrio de la Estacion in Haro. This wine is a blend of 65% Tempranillo and 35% Garnacha that spent 9-10 years in American oak barrels. TCA. Not Rated.
1964 Bilbainas, Vendimia Especial, Rioja Reserva
One of the top wines this wine is a blend of70% Tempranillo and 30% Garnacha sourced from the Zaco vineyard. It spent 18 months in large wooden vats then 6-8 (or 9-10) years in American oak barrels. This is a bright wine with tart red fruit and a grippy nature. The wine is still youthful but the leather notes speak of age. *** Now but will last.
1964 Bilbainas, Vina Pomal, Rioja Reserva Especial
This label has existed for over 100 years and always featured fruit from the Vina Pomal vineyard between the Ebro and Tiron rivers. Apparently Winston Church drank it regularly. It is a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, and 5% Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura. It spent 1 year in tank followed by 6-7 years in American oak barriques. TCA. Not Rated.
1964 Campo Viejo, Rioja
Founded in 1963, Camp Viejo moved from Rioja Baja to an industrial part of Logrono in 1965. The Crianza is typically a blend of mostly 80% Tempranillo followed by 20% Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano. It spent 18 months in large vats followed by 30 months in American oak barriques. A fine nose makes way to a fruity start that is still ripe and flavored by spices in the finish. The relatively short aging in wood results in this wine having the most fruit out of all tasted. Perhaps not the most complex flavors the wine is, nevertheless, a fine drink with finely textured, ripe flavors. *** Now – 2022.
1964 Franco-Espanolas, Excelsos, Rioja Gran Reserva
Bodegas Franco-Espanolas history begins in 1890 when Frederick Anglade Saurat came to Logrono from Bordeaux. Once his vineyards were in full production he founded the Bodegas, with Spanish capital, in 1901. The Excelsos is the top gran reserve released only in the best vintages. This rare wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo that spent 18 months in large wooden vats and 6-7 years in American oak barrels. It was released in 1980. TCA. Not Rated.
1964 Gomez Cruzado, Honorable, Rioja Gran Reserva
Founded in 1886. This is a blend of 65% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo and Graciano. This is fermented and raised in large wooden vats for 24 months followed by aging for 5 years in old American oak barrels. It was bottled in 1972. Quite stinky at first then a transition to an attractive funk. However it is clean in the mouth where there are very lively flavors, crisp fruit, and wood shavings. A delight in the mouth. If I am picky, the finish is a little short. ***(*) Now – 2025.
1964 Bodegas Montecillo, Vina Monty, Rioja
Founded in 1870, Bodegas Montecillo is one of the oldest firms in Rioja. The Vina Monty is the top wine. Produced solely from Tempranillo it spent 6 to 12 months in large wooden vats then 48 months in American oak barrels. The 1964 vintage was produced at the old winery pre-dating the Osborne acquisition of 1973. A good nose of fruit and mixed herbs. There is round, red fruit, bright acidity, and a fine wood note. ***(*) Now – 2022.
1964 Frederico Paternina, Rioja Gran Reserva
Founded in 1898, Frederico Paternina owns no vineyards. This is a blend of 70% Tempranillo with 30% Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano. This Gran Reserva spent up to six years in American oak barrels and other volumes. TCA. Not Rated.
1964 Riojanas, Monte Real, Rioja Gran Reserva
Founded in 1890. A blend of mostly 70% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Graciano, and 3% Viura and Malvasia. It spent 12 to 18 months in large wooden tanks then aged for 4.5 to 6 years in American oak casks and other sizes. Part of the fruit underwent carbonic maceration. A touch musty at first but cleans up to reveal aromas of broth. The bright flavors of cranberry are fresh and grippy. The wine is driven by acidity. This is the most youthful wine of them all, still focused and on the upslope of development. ***(*) Now – 2025.
Dinner Wines
1970 LAN, Lanciano Rioja
Founded in 1970. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo that spent 18 months in tank and 2 years in American oak casks. Imported by The Rare Wine Co. Quite comforting with a combination of wood box notes, mature yet freshly delivered red fruit, and garrigue. The flavors become meaty with air. There is moderate weight and though the tannins are largely resolved a bit of structure comes out in the finish. ***(*) Now but will last.
1978 Torres, Gran Coronas, Penedes Reserva
Imported by Chateau & Estates. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was fermented in stainless steel then aged for 18 months in American oak casks. It was bottled in 1980. Alcohol 12.5%. There is a tart, assertive start that is infused with some funk. The wine soon becomes weightier with prominent acidity, green pepper notes, and tons of grip. Quite fun to drink. *** Now but will last.
2007 Bonneau, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by Bordeaux Wine Locators. Alcohol 15%. This lively red wine is bright in flavor and poised for many years of development. I particularly like the fine mixture of Christmas spices which add complexity to the red fruit. A real treat, I wish I had tasted it some more. **** Now – 2027.
NV Rare Wine Co, Henriques & Henriques Imperial Reserve Malmsey
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. This Madeira is a blend of old stocks of Malmsey from Henriques & Henriques. Mannie created the blend with John Cossart shortly before he passed away. It was released in honor of John Cossart in 2008. Alcohol 20%. There are pungent aromas of orange marmalade. In the mouth is a rounded, dense start followed by powerful pungent flavors and racy residual sugar. Supporting this is acidity to match. The wine is incensed with Christmas spices. I imagine this will slowly develop for a few more decades. ****.
1990 H. M. Borges, Sercial
Imported by Next Chapter Wines & Spirits. Alcohol 20%. An amber-tawny color. Slightly pungent on the nose it is off to a round start that immediately unleashes piercing acidity. There is lovely body weight which adds tension to this acidity driven wine. Complexity comes from baking spices. ****.
NV H. M. Borges, 15 year old Verdelho
Imported by Next Chapter Wines & Spirits. Alcohol 19%. There is a low-lying, deep nose. In the mouth are taut orange citrus flavor and round body with piercing, laser sharp acidity. Sweet and tense. Good future potential. ***.
2005 H. M. Borges, Tina Negra Colheita
Alcohol 20%. Bottled in 2017. A very good, deep nose. A racy, weighty start brings ripe flavors and sweetness in this round, tense wine. A cherry middle makes way to a sweeter finish. Good stuff. ***(*).
1998 H.M. Borges, Malmsey Colheita
This wine was aged in casks for over 8 years. Bottled in 2006/7. Alcohol 19%. A touch of satisfying pungency on the nose. In this mouth this is a powerful wine with fruit, nuts, and piercing acidity. ***.
1995 H. M. Borges, Bual Colheita
This wine was aged in oak casks for at least 5 years. Alcohol 19%. A pungent, piercing nose. In the mouth are spicy flavors delivered as a tense core. Notes of evergreen and Christmas spices add complexity before the textured finish. ***(*).
Legendary Rioja: CVNE Viña Real and Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva from 1976-1964
Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (CVNE), founded in 1879, is one of the oldest Rioja producers. For nearly one century CVNE has produced the top brands of Viña Real and Imperial. Over this period the wines developed the reputation as consistent both in high-quality and long-life with the particular decades of the 1940s through the 1970s considered the classic age. This month a small group of us explored the tail end of this age by tasting five vintages of both Viña Real and Imperial Gran Reservas from 1976 back to 1964.
CVNE is a unique estate in that there are only five winemakers over the course of its long history. For the vintages we tasted our focus begins with the third head winemaker Ezequiel Garcia (1930 – 2017). He was born in Anguciana, a small town near Haro, and worked at CVNE from 1958 through 1973.
The 1920 harvest arrives at CVNE. Image provided by CVNE.
Imperial was first produced in the 1920s. It is always bottled in a Bordeaux shaped bottle and is named after the Imperial pint bottles it was once sold in. This wine is traditionally a majority of Tempranillo with a bit of Graciano, Mazuelo, and Viura largely from the Rioja Alta. The Viña Real brand name was registered in 1940 but it existed previously under different variations. The name stems from the Camino Real or Royal Road next to which many of the vineyards lie. It is bottled in the iconic Burgundy shaped bottle containing Tempranillo, Garnacha and Mazuelo largely sourced from the Rioja Alavesa.
Ezequiel Garcia produced Imperial at the CVNE winery in Haro and Viña Real at the Viña Real winery in Elciego. For each brand there were different levels of quality. From top to bottom quality, Imperial was historically sold as Gran Reserva and Reserva with the Viña Real as Reserva Especial, Reserva, and 4 año. With the new wine regulations of the 1970s Viña Real wines were renamed Gran Reserva, Reserva, and Crianza. The Imperial names did not change.
The Reserva Especial and Gran Reserva bottlings are meant to be the best quality wine possible, produced only in the best vintages using the best fruit. Such was the quality of the wines produced by Ezequiel Garcia during the 1960s and 1970s that the author and journalist Xavier Domingo nicknamed him “El Brujo” or the wizard. It is these wines that I poured at the tasting.
A wine is only as good as the fruit that it is produced from so credit must be given to Jose Angel de Madrazo y Real de Asua, 4th generation of the founding brothers Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asua. Jose Madrazo joined the CVNE Board of Directors in the mid-1960s soon becoming General Manager of Viña Real. CVNE sources fruit from vineyards they own but also from others under long-term contracts. One of Jose Madrazo’s responsibilities was to maintain these contracts and to seek out other grapes for all the quality levels at Viña Real. It is he who discovered the vineyards at Laserna. Such was the quality of the Laserna fruit that Ezequiel Garcia used it exclusively for the Reserva Especial and Gran Reserva. These vines at Laserna would eventually form the single-vineyard estate of Vinedos del Contino.
The Viña Real and Imperial wines were always meant to be different. They were made at different wineries with different blends sourced from different plots with different climates. During the 1940s through the 1970s, Viña Real always featured at least one-third Garnacha Tina with a typical blend of 40% Garnacha, 40% Tempranillo, and 20% other varieties including Mazuelo. Imperial never included Garnacha Tinta and featured more Mazuela and even some Graciano.
Cement tanks at El Carmen winery inaugurated in 1940. Image provided by CVNE.
Viña Real was made at a small winery in Elciego built in the 1920s. Imperial was made at the El Carmen winery in Haro. Inaugurated in 1940, it was the first winery with concrete tanks in Rioja. Epoxy-lined concrete tanks were also installed at Viña Real. The Viña Real winery was small so the wines were vinified there then underwent barrel aging at CVNE in Haro. In 1957, the year before Ezequiel Garcia began work at CVNE, the 1941 Imperial was still in barrel. Under Garcia, the duration the Gran Reserva spent in American oak was slowly reduced to at least six years by the 1970s.
1976 Imperial Gran Reserva aging in barrel. Image provided by CVNE.
In 1973, Ezequiel Garcia left CVNE for Bodegas Olarra. He vinified the wine from the 1973 harvest but the final blend was made by the fourth CVNE winemaker Basilio Izquierdo Torres. Torres, who studied in Bordeaux, worked at CVNE from 1974 through 2004. Thus the vintages we tasted may be classified as: 1976 (Torres), 1973(Garcia/Torres), 1970 (Garcia), 1966 (Garcia), and 1964 (Garcia).
It was also in 1973, that CVNE and others, purchased the Laserna vineyards and formed Vinedos del Contino. The first Contino harvest occurred in 1974 so all of the Contino fruit from the 1973 vintage was still destined for the Viña Real Gran Reserva. It took a while for the Contino facilities to be built up so a large proportion of the excellent Contino fruit continued to be used in the Viña Real Gran Reserva. Today, Viña Real continues to use fruit from the Laserna region including plots that literally border the Contino estate.
Bottling of the 1970 Imperial Gran Reserva. Image provided by CVNE.
Across all five of the vintages we tasted, the Viña Real Reserva Especial and Gran Reserva all demonstrate deep aromas, full-bodied flavor, and extra complexity from earth and animale notes. The Imperial are brighter, more structured with noticeable acidity and more control over the flavors. All of the bottles have aged very well with a general increase in liveliness as the wines became older.
The pair from 1976 showed good, complex flavor yet came across as fully mature. The pair from 1973 exhibit less complexity yet are fresh and lively in the mouth. I personally would rather drink the 1976s for the flavor but many preferred the 1973s for their condition. Both wines from the 1970 vintage demonstrated a significant increase in complexity and energy. The 1970 Viña Real is deep, earthy, mouth filling, and ethereal with a level of energy that made me pause. The 1970 Imperial leans towards a core of fruit propelled by acidity, leaving a texture in the mouth. The 1966 pair are lighter in flavor. The 1966 Viña Real offers up more flavor than the 1966 Imperial but both wines should be drunk up.
It is a remarkably testament to the greatness of the 1964 vintage and the capable hand of Ezequiel Garcia, that the wines from 1964 are the most energetic and long-lived of all we tasted. That is no small feat considering the 1964 Imperial was served from two half-bottles! The aromas are to dream of, the flavors are a bit closely played but the mouthfeel is oily and luxurious. My favorite wine of the night is the 1964 Viña Real. It is mouth filling with complexity yet never weighs down the palate. The interplay of flavor, texture, and acidity are remarkable.
We are fortunate in that not one of our bottles was bad allowing the personality of Viña Real and Imperial to shine through all of the vintages tasted. If you have yet to taste mature CVNE you must set your sights on the 1964 Viña Real Reserva Especial. If that is too expensive, the 1970 Viña Real Gran Reserva is a relative bargain. These two wines in particular should be tried by all lovers of mature red wine.
CVNE is still run by family members including Maria Urrita Ybarra, Director of Marketing, who answered many of my questions and provided the historic images used in this post. I must also thank Jesús Madrazo, son of Jose Madrazo, 5th generation of the founding brothers, and former Technical Director of Contino, who kindly replied to all of my emails as well. Finally, I thank my friend Mannie Berk, founder of The Rare Wine Co., whose careful acquisition of these bottles enabled this tasting to take place.
Arrival Champagne
1984 Le Mesnil, Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs en magnum
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. A youthful yellow color with just a hint of gold. The wine greets with a good set of strong, yet finely textured bubbles. This is a surprisingly youthful with with yellow fruit, and a core of berries throughout. With extended air sweet spices come out. ***(*) Now – 2037.
The CVNE Wines
1976 CVNE, Viña Real, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. The deep nose offers up dark, sweaty aromas. In the mouth the deep note is echoed in the soft entry. There is a bit of a sweet vein of fruit with some supporting structure in the end. This bottle is fully mature with good depth. With air the fine red fruit flavor takes on an old wood note. *** Now – 2020.
1976 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. There is a coffee-like hint on the modest nose. In the mouth is a soft, seductive start then a bright note buoyed by the watering acidity. The flavors are more linear with dry black fruit, and a subtle wood note. *** Now – 2022.
1973 CVNE, Viña Real, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. A fine, clean nose reveals familiar deep aromas, and sweet red scents. With air it takes on floral aromas. In the mouth are cherry fruits framed by a fine structure. It offers good grip and presence with a rounded body. The cherry note continues in the finish and into the ethereal aftertaste. *** Now – 2022.
1973 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. There is a noticeably dark core to the color. The nose is less aromatic with hints of funk and pungency which eventually clean up. However, there is a brighter start with slightly sour flavors. The flavors are lighter weight, carried by watering acidity, and some grip in the finish. *** Now – 2022.
1970 CVNE, Viña Real, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. There are finely woven flavors of deep, sweet strawberry fruit. Complexity is gained through a subtle amount of earth and animale flavors. This is a beautiful wine, full of flavor, yet ethereally light through the long aftertaste. The energy of the wine makes you take notice as the wine will continue to drink well for a long time. ****(*) Now – 2027.
1970 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. Another lovely wine. The bright start takes on a gentle, sweet core of red and black fruits propelled by watering acidity. There are complex spices, animale flavors, and wood notes. This finely textured wine still has youthful grip. **** Now – 2027.
1966 CVNE, Viña Real, Rioja Reserva Especial
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. In a way there is sweeter fruit in this wine. Though it is lighter in flavor and body there is complexity from low-lying minerals and wood notes. It offers more fruit than the Imperial. It is in a good state of life given the lesser vintage. *** Now.
1966 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. I found this tart with watery flavor, less weight, and dry structure. ** Now.
1964 CVNE, Viña Real, Rioja Reserva Especial
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. There are deep aromas of leather and earth. In the mouth the red fruit has youthful grip with a gorgeously fine interplay of fruit, earth, and animale notes. The wine becomes drier towards the finish. This is a beautifully focused wine with both fruit, acidity, and structure to continue its glacial evolution for years to come. If you enjoy that sweet concentration resulting from traditional winemaking and old age then look no further. ****(*) Now – 2032.
1964 CVNE, Imperial, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. What a beautiful nose! Again this shows more focus and structure but the the vintages give the flavors extra strength and weight. Black fruited in general added mouthfeel comes out of nowhere from a luxurious oily bit. I wonder if it will open up even more? **** Now – 2027.
Dinner Wines
NV Krug, Grande Cuvée 164 eme Edition, Champagne Brut
Imported by Moet Hennessy USA. Alcohol 12.5%. This already smells complex with a young aroma of apple. In the mouth this is a youthful wine with assertive bubbles then a very fine mousse. The yellow fruit and gentle baking spices are of good complexity and long duration. **** Now – 2037.
1996 Fernando Remírez de Ganuza, Rioja Reserva
Imported by Tempranillo Inc. There is a pungent nose of berries and banana foster. It is a fresh and gentle wine in the mouth back by good weight. Despite the young age, it is drinking very well showing both mature flavors and a core of covert fruit. **** Now – 2022.
1985 Torres, Grand Sangre de Torro, Penedes
This wine is a blend of 70% Garnacha and 30% Carinena. There is a bright red fruit in the complex start. It morphs from earthy, sweet fruit in the start to dry black fruit in the finish. A ripe Garnacha character comes out with air. This is not a wine for the ages rather a solid, mature wine to drink now. *** Now – 2020.
1973 Paternina, Conde de los Andes, Rioja Gran Reserva
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. A brilliant color! The tart red fruit on the nose smells of some age due to a roasted earth note. In the mouth are lighter flavors of cranberry and red fruits which are match by the acidity driven profile. This is a clean with, slightly short in the finish, yet the aftertaste still leaves texture on the gums. *** Now but will last.
1970 Bodegas Bilbainas, Vina Pomal, Rioja Crianza
A Chambers Street Wines selection imported by T. Elenteny. Tired on the nose and in the mouth. The rounded start brings rather advanced flavors and a short finish. *(*) Drink Up.
NV Emilio Lustau, Sherry Very Rare Oloroso Emperatriz Eugenia
Imported by Europvin USA. This is enjoyable pungent on the nose with polished wood, fresh orange citrus notes, and some deep aromas. Noticeably less complex in the mouth with a dry, linear, saline flavors of nuts and yellow citrus wrapped up by a warm finish. *** Now – 2027+.
NV Barbeito, Terrantez Reserve Madeira
Imported by the Rare Wine Co. There is a sweet nose of brown sugar backed by the slightest pungency. In the mouth there is still, fine sweet fruit of good weight. The sweetness is expertly balanced by the acidity. It picks up a lovely foxiness in the finish. **** Now – whenever.
Delicious and historic, the 1974 Contino, Rioja Reserva
Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (CVNE) has produced the legendary Viña Real since the 1920s. CVNE was founded in 1879 by Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asua and in the 1960s, 4th generation Jose Angel de Madrazo y Real de Asua became General Manager of Viña Real.
Jose Madrazo responsibilities included purchasing additional fruit for the winery. He largely purchased fruit from Rioja Alavesa where he discovered the Laserna vineyards. Such is the quality of these vineyards that CVNE winemaker Ezequiel García used the Laserna fruit exclusively for the top-quality Viña Real Reserva Especial.
Recognizing the importance of the vineyards, the CVNE family and others formed the society Viñedos del Contino in 1973. By purchasing the Laserna vineyards they became the first single-vineyard estate in Rioja of which Jose Madrazo was the first General Manager.
Two years ago I was fortunate to dine with Jesús Madrazo the 5th generation of the founders and son of Jose Madrazo. Jesús Madrazo began working at CVNE and Contino in 1995, soon becoming technical director or head winemaker in 1999. For our dinner he brought a bottle of the first vintage produced under his father, the 1974 Vinedos del Contino, Rioja Reserva.
At the time of the 1974 vintage, Viña Real was produced at its own small winery. It is here that the first vintages of Contino were produced and bottled. Viña Real always appears in Burgundy shaped bottles so too was this Contino when it was bottled in 1979. Fortunate for me Jesus Madrazo’s father had the foresight to set aside some 4,000 bottles of this vintage for future tastings.
The wine itself is excellent which speaks to the quality of the vineyards and to the knowledge transferred from Viña Real to Contino. I found it uniquely floral on the nose and in a nod to Viña Real, full-bodied with lively acidity. This is traditional, old Rioja delivering full flavor with age-defying life.
1974 Vinedos del Contino, Rioja Reserva
Alcohol 12.6%. This was refreshed at one point with 10-15% of the 1975 vintage. The nose offers dried flowers, black tea, and with air such fruit as plums. In the mouth this is a full bodied, ripe flavored, and mouth filling wine. There is vibrant acidity and still supportive structure which will see this wine through future years. It is in no sense fragile. **** Now – 2025.
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