Posts Tagged ‘$20-$29’

A pair of Italian reds, one of which is very good

October 10, 2017 Leave a comment

From an excellent vintage the 2010 Colpetrone, Montefalco Sagrantino is a rare bargain that provides immediate drinking pleasure yet is capable of development for several years to come.  With the expected structure come robust flavors of generous dark fruit which morphs into a mineral vein that will have you revisit your glass time after time.  I recommend you pick up a few bottles for this weekend.  While the 2014 Castiglion del Bosco, Rosso di Montalcino clearly needs age, I do not foresee it improving.  Avoid.  These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2010 Colpetrone, Montefalco Sagrantino- $21
Imported by Vias Imports. This wine is 100% Sagrantino which was aged for 12 months in French oak barriques. The fruit is sourced from 35 hectares of vineyards on soils of limey soil with clay deposits at 350 meters.  Alcohol 14.5%. There is a deep fruited nose. In the mouth are red fruit flavors then generally dark fruit with a prominent mineral vein. The wine is robust in a way. The move from fruit to minerality engages the palate. This would not be Sagrantino without the strong structure of very fine grained tannins. However, the weight of the fruit generally covers it. ***(*) Now – 2027.

2014 Castiglion del Bosco, Rosso di Montalcino – $19
Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines. Alcohol 14%. The wine finally opens up on the second night revealing black fruit and licorice aromas. In the mouth the wine is upfront flavors of bright plums. There is a tangy middle and short finish. It is a clean wine in need of some age as it is not moving at this point. *(*) 2019-2027.

The exciting Gamay “Les Massardieres” from Guillaume Gilles

If you are enchanted by the traditional wines of the Northern Rhone then there is a strong chance you have tasted the efforts of Guillaume Gilles.  He is the protege of Robert Michel, a 9th generation winemaker, who upon retirement, leased a prime vineyard to Gilles and let him use his cave for producing wine.  Gilles also worked with Jean-Louis Chave.  It is Gilles’ traditionally made wines from Cornas and Cotes du Rhone that show his adept hand with Syrah.

Guillaume Gilles also excels with Gamay.  I know for just last week I tasted an exciting bottle of 2015 Guillaume Gilles, Les Massardieres.  There is very little information published and as far as I can tell this wine is only available at MacArthur Beverages.  Phil Bernstein decided to import the wine after visiting Gilles earlier this year.  With an introduction from Phil, Gilles related the story of this wine.

The Gamay for Les Massardieres is sourced from a vineyard 16km away from Cornas near Arlenosc on the Plateau Ardéchois.   Located at an altitude of 500 to 600 meters this area is higher than Cornas and the Rhone Valley.  It is here that Guillaume Gilles has vacationed with his family since he was a young boy of 3.  For Gilles the land is “more wild and typical” than the Rhone Valley.  It was natural then that Gilles accepted the offer to tend the vineyard when a friend recently presented the opportunity.

In turns out that Gilles spent time in Beaujolais as a youth where he developed his love of Gamay.  He became attracted to the idea of producing a good, simple wine different from Cornas.  With his first vintage of 2011 he found that the vineyard produced a deeper, more characterful wine than he expected.

The vineyard is tiny, just 3000 m² or three-quarters of an acre. It was planted some 40 years ago on soils of young granite.  The granite is less altered so there is only a thin layer of sand making it more acidic.  Though vines have been grown here for some three centuries there is no appellation or IGP.  Gilles is only aware of Gamay being grown since the Second World War.  He finds it an ideal region for Gamay.  The higher altitude and continental climate make for a season that is a bit too short for Syrah to ripen.

Les Massardieres is made using carbonic maceration but Guillaume Gilles could not resist pigeage, like he employs in his Cornas, before the end of fermentation.  I find the wine is a unique perspective on Gamay.  It is long in flavor, from the lively, almost prickly start to the chewy finish.  There is fine texture to the wine but it is the fat infused fruit that makes for an outstanding mouthfeel.  The 2015 vintage furnished very ripe berries which Gilles believes gives the wine this texture.  The ripeness is not overdone.  He feels, and I must agree, that the terroir still comes through.

I strongly encourage you to try a bottle or two of Les Massardieres.  It is one of the most exciting young wines I have recently tried.

2015 Guillaume Gilles, Les Massardieres – $25
Imported by MacArthur Liquors.  This wine is 100% Gamay.  Alcohol 13%.  The nose bears floral aromas.  In the mouth the wine is perfumed from the start through the long aftertaste.  It is lively on the tongue tip, almost prickly, and soon delivers fat infused fruit which lends to a sense of luxury and body.  There is a texture throughout adding tactile sensation to the purple and black fruit.  A dry cut ends with a grapey and chewy finish. **** Now – 2022.

Barbera d’Alba from Burlotto

September 27, 2017 Leave a comment

I admit I am relatively new to the wines of G. B. Burlotto despite the winery having been founded in the mid 19th century.  My experience is limited to a few vintages of the ancient variety Pelaverga and one Barolo from 1961.  Today the wines are made by Fabio Alessandria, great-great-grandson of the founder G. B. Burlotto.  Alessandria is said to have reinvigorated the winery through the use of traditional techniques.

He typically produces two Barbera but in 2014 the fruit for his top cuvee Aves was combined to make a single bottling of the 2014 G. B. Burlotto, Barbera d’Alba.  It is a tangy, bright wine with a mouth feel that is even better than the flavor for the suppleness seemingly comes from fat.  The 2015 G. B. Burlotto, Barbera d’Alba Aves  is deeper in flavor with more obvious structure and a stronger mineral presence.  A floral component adds to the complexity.  It will improve with age but is hard to resist right now and yes, the fat impression helps.  Both of these wines are still available at MacArthur Beverages.

2014 G. B. Burlotto, Barbera d’Alba – $20
Imported by Elite Wines.  Alcohol 13.5%.  A light to medium ruby with a hint of garnet.  A fine nose.  The tangy and bright start becomes tangier with air. With air the wine mores from a red start to a black finish with pencil lead.  There is moderate suppleness coupled with some surprising fat.  The fat is attractive.  **(*) Now – 2020.

2015 G. B. Burlotto, Barbera d’Alba Aves – $26
Imported by Elite Wines.  Alcohol 15%.  Dark purple-tinged ruby.  A scented nose.  The tangy red fruit is of fine quality and in perfect balance with acidity and structure.  With air the wine becomes mineral, amost black towards the finish where it picks up floral flavors.  It shows a polished wood note, a mineral structure, and fat in the aftertaste.  *** Now – 2023.

The grapey 2015 J.L. Chave Selections, Silene, Crozes-Hermitage

September 26, 2017 Leave a comment

The 2015 J.L. Chave Selections, Silene, Crozes-Hermitage features young fruit from the estate as well as purchased.  It is full of grapey aromas and flavors to good effect.  It will even remind you of the granite soils.  You can pick it up at MacArthur Beverages.

2015 J.L. Chave Selections, Silene, Crozes-Hermitage – $26
Imported by Erin Cannon Imports.  This wine is 100% Syrah from hillside parcels on granite with 50% sourced from a young parcel planted in 2003.  Alcohol 14%. Good, grapey aromas are on the nose. In the mouth are grapey flavors, as if from young vines, and citric pithe texture. Almost juicy acidity and a modest dry structure. Dry mineral streak. Grapey depth.  *** Now – 2020.

Mature Akronte from the Marche

September 22, 2017 Leave a comment

The 2000 Boccadigabbia, Akronte, Marche represents the top bottling of this estate.  With the grape and oak representing the previous French ownership of the estate this is a modern style of wine.  The long oak aging has ensured this wine is still very robust to this day.  What is within this robust structure are mouth filling flavors, the right amount of weight, and spot on acidity. Tim is clearing out the last few bottles at MacArthur Beverages so why not try something different?

2000 Boccadigabbia, Akronte, Marche – $20
Imported by Bacchus Importers.  This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 18-20 months in new French oak barriques.  Alcohol 14.5%.  The maturing color is a dark brick and garnet.  Some hints of roast are on the nose but none in the mouth.  Instead, there is a cool entry of flavors which quickly builds with mouth filling power yet maintains a controlled core of weight and even a fresh finish.  The structure of dry and textured tannins is still noticeable in the finish and aftertaste.  With air this wine has perfect acidity that matches the firm black cherry flavors and wood notes.  This modern-styled wine is too robust for higher marks but is  nonetheless a treat at this price.  ***(*) Now – 2025.

A pair of Mencia from Casa de Burbia of Bierzo

September 20, 2017 Leave a comment

There are a range of wines produced by  Casar de Burbia all from various holdings of old vines in Bierzo.  Phil recently brought in two red wines made from Mencia.  Both were raised for one year in French oak so they offer a serious take on the grape.  The 2014 Casar de Burbia, Casar, Bierzo is grapey style of wine which improves with air.  It is an ideal wine to drink mid-week over the next few years.  I particularly liked the 2013 Casar de Burbia, Hombros, Bierzo with its deeper flavors and more obvious mineral edge.  It will certainly develop in the bottle for a few more years but the robustness, tannins, and juicy acidity make it hard to resist right now.   These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2014 Casar de Burbia, Casar, Bierzo – $15
Imported by South River Imports.  This wine is 100% Mencia sourced from 40 year old vines, fermented in stainless steel then aged 12 months in French oak. Alcohol 14%.  There are rich, young fruit flavors with hints of grapey tang and grapey greenness.  It moves towards tangy black flavors in the firmer finish.  With air there is a sense of softness coupled with a berrylicious flavor and even an impression of fat in the aftertaste.  *** Now – 2020.

2013 Casar de Burbia, Hombros, Bierzo – $20
Imported by South River Imports.  This wine is 100% Mencia sourced from 50-100 year old vines, fermented in stainless steel then aged 12 months in French oak. Alcohol 13.5%.  The dark, plummy aromas make way  to a slightly robust, minerally black fruited start in the mouth.  The gum coating tannins are there but so is juicy acidity and very ripe fruit.  This is an attractive wine of good flavor which persists in the long aftertaste.  ***(*) Now – 2022.

2015 Jamet: Cotes du Rhone blanc and Syrah

September 18, 2017 Leave a comment

The pair of 2015 Domaine Jamet wines featured in this post are very different.  Not just in terms of color but nature.  Over the course of three days, the 2015 Domaine Jamet, Cotes du Rhone Blanc remains very focused on only revealing its primary components which are flinty flavors of lemon and other white fruit.  It is, in short, a wine with good future potential that you should just leave buried in your cellar.  The 2015 Domaine Jamet, Syrah, Collines Rhodaniennes IGP is a wine to drink now.  The rounded flavors and infusion of fat enable this to be a wine for drinking now.  However, the generosity of the 2015 vintage does not take away from the Jamet subtlety.   This subtlety of fruit coupled with graphite and fat place this wine unmistakably in the north.  I recommend you drink this delicious wine as soon as you return with a bottle. These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2015 Domaine Jamet, Cotes du Rhone Blanc – $30
Imported by Domaine Select. This wine is a blend of 55% Marianne, 30% Viognier, 10% Roussanne, 5% Grenache Blanc sourced from vines averaging 10 years of age.  It was vinified in both stainless steel and oak barriques.  Alcohol 13%.  This is a pale straw color.  There is a flinty, fruited started with a hint of wood by the middle.  The wine is almost tart with lemon and white fruit flavors.  With extended air it remains very focused, eventually taking on some fine texture through the aftertaste. ***(*) 2019 – 2029.

2015 Domaine Jamet, Syrah, Collines Rhodaniennes IGP – $25
Imported by Domaine Select. This wine is 100% Syrah sourced from 12 year old vines fermented in stainless steel then aged for one year in oak barrels. Alcohol 12%.  The fat on the nose makes way to rounded flavors of minerals, graphite, and red fruit. There is also a subtle fat vein that works is way through the wine.  The flavors become finely perfumed as the wine becomes dry towards the finish.  For the near term.  *** 2017-2020.