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A trio of Cinsault from Itata in Chile
If you are looking for interesting and tasty wines then I suggest you grab the three bottles of Cinsault featured in this post. All three wines are made from old vines grown in the Itata Valley of Chile yet they are radically different wines.
The most exciting wine is the 2015 Rogue Vine, Grand Itata Tinto, Itata Valley. There is a deep, earthy note which immediately confers complexity to the bright, lifted red fruit. I find it downright tasty but the wine requires a few more months of age to reach maximum flavor. The 2014 Viñateros Bravos, Canto a lo Divino Cinsault, Itata Valley is the lightest of the trio. It smells like the pine trees of New Mexico and is clearly a lighter wine yet has roundness in the mouth. You will find a mouthful of berries with the 2015 Pedro Parra y Familia, Imaginador Cinsault, Itata Valley. The fruit is very forward making this a wine to drink now yet there is a supporting spine of lively acidity. My only gripe is that there is a bit too much fruit for my preference.
Each one of these wines is full of character which is a treat given the reasonable prices. You may find all three selections at MacArthur Beverages.
2015 Rogue Vine, Grand Itata Tinto, Itata Valley – $20
Imported by Brazos Wine Imports. This wine is a blend of 95% Cinsault and 5% Pais from vines planted in 1960. Alcohol 13%. There is a touch of deep earth to the bright red fruit aromas. In the mouth this is an acidity driven, dry wine with watering acidity. There is a core of ripe cranberry fruit, some black fruit, and baking spices. There is good flavor and even a luxurious element of fat. The with is focused yet ethereal with lifted earth notes in the finish where it wraps up dry. ***(*) 2018 – 2022.
2014 Viñateros Bravos, Canto a lo Divino Cinsault, Itata Valley – $20
Imported by Ripe Wine Imports. This wine is 100% Cinsault sourced from 60 year old vines on basalt soils. It was fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Alcohol 12.8%. A light cranberry color. The wine smells like fresh pine trees. It is finely textured in the mouth with dry, red fruit. The body is quite round with a touch of fat though it remains lithe through the mouth. *** Now – 2019.
2015 Pedro Parra y Familia, Imaginador Cinsault, Itata Valley – $20
Imported by Ripe Wine Imports. This wine is a field blend of 80% Cinsault with some Muscat, Semillon, and Pais and 20% Carignan sourced from 71-110 year old vines on red quartzic granite soils. It was raised on both cement and stainless steel. Alcohol 14%. A medium purple ruby. This is a ripe, fruity wine with a lively underpinning. It is for up-front drinking, packed with mouth filling flavors, spices, and a weighty, puckering finish. It becomes drier with gum coating tannins in the aftertaste. **(*) Now – 2018.
An approachable Rasteau
Guillaume Gonnet has produced wine at his family estate since 2006. His short duration in the Southern Rhone is most likely why this is a new wine for me. I typically find young Rasteau a bit burly but not the 2015 Guillaume Gonnet, Le Maestro, Rasteau. This is a gentle, savory wine that can be enjoyed now. This approachability might be a bit atypical but it tastes good! You can grab a few bottles from MacArthur Beverages.
2015 Guillaume Gonnet, Le Maestro, Rasteau – $17
Imported by Misa Imports. This wine is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah that was vinified and aged in concrete vats. Alcohol 14%. There is a little plum and prune on the nose. In the mouth this is a gentle wine with cool, dark red fruit flavors that turn racy in the middle. Here it becomes mineral with black and fine spicy, baking spices. It is dry in the long finish. Overall, a very approachable, savory wine. *** Now – 2019.
Gamay for Thanksgiving
For Thanksgiving this year I served six different bottles of Gamay all of which are currently available for purchase. The 2015 La Dernière Goutte, Sang Neuf is the first wine I had everyone taste. I must admit I was very curious to try this wine because it is imported by Jeffrey Snow of Glou Glou Wines. Some of you may know Jeff from his days as a wine distributor in the Washington, DC, area. A few years ago he moved to France for university which precipitated, based on the stream of vineyard and open bottle pictures I saw, some serious research. Jeff is back in the area importing the wines he loves to drink in France. This first bottle I have tried of his is produced by Cyrille Vuillod who farms vines in St-Etienne la Varenne. Vuillod does not add anything to his wine including sulphur dioxide. They are bottled with the natural carbon dioxide as a preservative so there is spritz even after double-decanting. Jeff writes of freshness and now I understand! The 2015 vintage was very warm in Beaujolais but Vuillod’s wines, which normally achieve 11%-12% alcohol, came in at 13%. The wine is surprisingly deep at first but with air the flavors become tart carried by some killer, crunchy acidity. The wine is stable too. Grab a bottle if you want to learn what freshness is all about!
As for the other bottles I served, the 2015 Guillaume Gilles, Les Massardieres confirms once again that it is an awesome bottle of wine. The 2015 Jean-Paul Brun, Moulin a Vent Terres Dorees remained rather focused and tight all day. It did develop an attractive, creamy finish but this wine is best cellared for a few years. The 2015 Jean Foillard, Morgon Cote du Py certainly has strong potential. Buy a few bottles for your cellar. Of the 2016 and 2015 Lapierre, Morgon I preferred the 2016. I really enjoy the sweaty, earthy components of the 2015 but it felt, in comparison, weighed down as the 2016 is crisp and vigorous. All of these wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.
2015 La Dernière Goutte, Sang Neuf – $26
Imported by Glou Glou Wines. Alcohol 13%. A slight spritz hangs around. The wine is unmistakably, very fresh with almost crunch acidity supported the spiced red fruit. The wine is deep at first but with air the fruit brightens up. This is a textured wine with an ethereal expansion of flavor. It is rounder near the end when it takes on tartness and weight. ***(*) Now – 2018.
2015 Guillaume Gilles, Les Massardieres – $25
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is 100% Gamay. Alcohol 13%. Slightly textured with deep flavor of cranberries, red fruit, and a notion of minerals. It becomes drier towards the finish with additional complexity from spices that last through the aftertaste. Lovely. **** Now – 2022.
2015 Jean-Paul Brun, Moulin a Vent Terres Dorees – $25
Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections. Alcohol 13%. The wine remains focused with a perfumed start, red fruit, and minerals. There are grapey hints in the tart, watering acidity driven finish. It is lighter and drier in nature but with a surprisingly creamy finish. It does not give up much right so is in need of age. **(*) 2019-2030.
2015 Jean Foillard, Morgon Cote du Py – $40
Imported by Kermit Lynch. Alcohol 14%. This wine first reveals tart red fruit, grippy cranberry, and watering acidity. After several hours the middle rounds out, the baking spices and acidity become integrated, and it develops weight. It even takes a honied texture in the middle. I think there is good potential here. ***(*) 2019-2027.
2015 Lapierre, Morgon en magnum – $55
Imported by Kermit Lynch. Alcohol 13.5%. There is mineral driven red fruit with some black hints. The flavors are dense, somewhat low-lying, with a sweaty and earthy finish. *** Now – 2018.
2016 Lapierre, Morgon – $22
Imported by Kermit Lynch. Alcohol 13%. A good nose is followed by fresh and perfumed flavors in the mouth. The clean red fruit has grapey weight and a ripe, lifted finish. Crisp compared to the 2015 vintage. ***(*) Now – 2019.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family,
Aaron
This wine will save you money
I received an email this week from a friend, a passionate home cook and ever-increasing wine lover, that he already drank his Thanksgiving day wines. If you find yourself in this predicament or you need to supply a large volume of wine to your family and friends then look no further than the 2013 Sella & Mosca,Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva. I recommended that you buy the previous vintage by the case and I make the same recommendation with the 2013. Already with bottle age, it should deliver deep yet lively flavor over the course of the next year. You may pick this up from the front rack at MacArthur Beverages.
2013 Sella & Mosca,Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva – $13
Imported by Palm Bay International. This is 100% Cannonau that was fermented in stainless steel then aged for two years in large Slavonian oak barrels. Alcohol 13%. The wine opens up quickly, within half an hour, to reveal dark red, grippy and spiced mouth filling flavor. The wine has moderate roundness, acidity driven strength such that it is lively on the tongue, and a sense of dry firmness in the finish. It should develop over the next half year. *** Now – 2019.
Two old Special Selection wines from California
One evening this summer, Mannie and I sat outside with our families for dinner. The theme for the meal was old Californian wine, a favorite subject of mine, both historically and gustatory. Our first bottle, the 1969 Louis M. Martini, Special Selection California Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon was produced by Louis P. Martini who took over management of his father’s winery the year before. It was that same year, in 1968, that the Californian wine boom took off and wine production began to accelerate. In the span of one year, from 1969 to 1970 the volume of table wine produced in California increased by more than 25%. The new interest in wine extended beyond the staggering increase in consumption, Californian wines made inroads at the White House and Heublein held their first rare wine auction conducted by Michael Broadbent.
Californian Zinfandel rode the boom during which our second bottle of 1977 Montevina, Special Selection Zinfandel, Amador County was produced. Zinfandel was to became widely discovered after Bob Trinchero released his 1968 Sutter Home, Zinfandel from old vines in Amador County. Amador County Zinfandel would eventually be considered “the biggest, richest, spiciest, and most intensely flavored red wines” produced in America. As a result, the price for Amador County Zinfandel skyrocketed from $68 per ton in 1968 up to $400-$500 per ton in 1980. During this period there was also a small scene of skyrocketing alcohol levels.
The first post-Prohibition winery in Amador County is Cary Gott’s Montevina Winery. Founded in 1970, it was a full-fledged professional operation by 1973. During the late 1970s the wines were being sold and favorably reviewed both on the west coast and the east coast. Frank J. Prial’s 1979 suggestions on which wines to select at the Four Seasons restaurant in New York City include “the great Montevina zinfandel” from 1974. He would later describe the 1976 vintage as “big, intense wine without a lot of elegance but great fun to drink.”
The Montevina fruit came from 120 acres of vines, most over 30 years of age and many over 70 years of age. They were dry-farmed which stressed the vines in the intense heat yielding “deeply colored, more concentrated juice”. If the regular bottlings of Zinfandel reached 15%, the more tannic and alcoholic Special Selection were higher. The 1977 Special Selection Zinfandel reached a reported 16%. These were the levels achieved naturally. The 1977 vintage occurred during a second consecutive drought year which when coupled with longer hang time only compounded levels. Mt. Veeder’s late harvest Zinfandel reached 17.2% and Sutter Home made a late harvest Zinfandel in 1977 which reached 17% alcohol. Bob Trinchero described it as a “very, very difficult wine to drink.”
By 1980, Bob Trinchero felt the fad “for these, big monster Zinfandels” died off. The wines were no longer bargains due to gaining respect. That same year Terry Roberts of The New York Times published a list of “complex and robust zinfandels” made by David Bruce, Mayacamas, Montevina, Ridge Vineyard, Sonoma Vineyard, and Sutter Home. That is quite a list of names.
As for the wines the 1969 Martini is fully mature. The flavors are still complex but the wine is gentle and shortening up. The 1977 Montevina is a mouth full. It does not have the complexity of the Martini but there is an interesting inky, mineral middle. It is almost like a dry Port and will last for decades. Neither wine blew me away but in reflecting the beginning and middle of the California wine boom I find them fascinating.
1969 Louis M. Martini, Special Selection California Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
This wine is made from Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Napa and Sonoma Counties. Alcohol 12.5%. The old-school, tangy red fruit is accompanied by leather and vintage perfume. The flavors dry up towards the shorter finish. *** Now.
1977 Montevina, Special Selection Zinfandel, Amador County
Alcohol 15%. From the mouth filling start to the mouth filling finish this wine is substantial. It is almost thick in the mouth with an interesting mineral middle, inky nature, and baking spiced finish. *** Now but will last.
A tasting of 2013-1999 Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Blind tasting wine in a friendly group is great fun. That is the ritual of the tasting group assembled this past weekend at Andy’s house. I find the experience sharply exposes the limits of my experience, reaffirming thoughts on what I must taste next year.
Before any deduction could began I took repeated small pours of the satisfying 2006 Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs. If you have not tried this Champagne then you must. The restrained level of bubbles, deep flavor, and racy body make this a wine you want to simply drink. No thought required.
It was not easy to determine if we were presented with a vertical, horizontal, or even New World and Old World wines. The first two wines, still with prominent unintegrated oak and fresh acidity, had me leaning towards an Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon based wine. The bottles encountered in the middle were more integrated and had flavors that brought one’s mind back to Europe. The last bottles were the most mature with a flavor unmistakably French. Then, in circling back to the first two wines, which had changed dramatically, you could catch whiffs of the Viognier added to Syrah. A few questions to Andy confirmed a vertical with a couple of people soon narrowing it down to Cote-Rotie. Then the wines were revealed as Guigal’s Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis.
Etienne Guigal and his future wife Marcelle met just outside of Chateau d’Ampuis in 1934. Some sixty years later their son Marcel purchased the then ruin and set out to restore the property. The oldest parts date back to the 12th century with the core of the building to the 16th century. The first vintage of Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis came in 1995, the same year it was purchased.
The fruit for these wines comes from Guigal’s lieux-dits in both Brune and Blonde with the Viognier all from the later. The wine is typically a blend of 94% Syrah and 6% Viognier from vines averaging 40 to 60 years of age. The fruit is vinified and raised separately for 38 months in new oak casks.
Based on our tasting the new oak is certainly evident in young vintages of 2011, 2012, and 2013 so these must clearly be cellared. Beginning with the excellent 2009 and strong 2006 vintages there is noticeable integration allowing you to appreciate the wine as a whole. While you may drink them for pleasure I would cellar them further. The 2003, 2001, and 1999 vintages clearly reveal mature flavors with the 2003 and 1999 the most ready to drink. This was a very consistent tasting with all of the vintages showing well and offering a lot of satisfaction.
2006 Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs
Alcohol 12.5%. Ripe white fruit and spices are immediately appartment in this rich, racy wine. There are moderate bubbles which make this very easy to drink. The generous flavor is still focused and reveals just a touch of yeast in the end. A great drink! ****(*) Now why wait?
2012 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Alcohol 13.5%. Plum and sweet aromas on the nose. A round start with a young grapey core, mid-palate weight, and drying, fine tannins with a mocha flavor that come out in the finish. It tastes modern at first with cool acidity but with air clean fruit and floral undertone come out. The oak still needs to integrate. ***(*) 2020 – 2030.
2013 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Alcohol 13.5 %. An acidity driven start mixed with cinnamon flavors. A dry middle of polished wood is followed by a simpler, sour fruited finish. With air a fine nose of Christmas incense develops. ***(*) 2020 – 2030.
2011 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Imported by Vintus. Alcohol 13%. There is a deeper, good nose. A mouth filling wine with red fruit, plums, and a dry black structure in the finish. This is still in a youthful period with new oak notes and more assertive tannins. But the flavor is lip-smacking revealing the start of a transformation. ***(*) 2018 – 2030.
2009 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Alcohol 13.5%. Grapey aromas. A quick taste reveals this is the first serious wine of the lineup. There is good flavors of dark red fruit, a ripe ethereal middle and a finish of gum coating, chewy tannins. Complexity from dried herbs and a perfumed middle entice. The wine is carried by slightly watering acidity. **** Now – 2027.
2006 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Alcohol 13.5%. The cherry flavors are acidity driven with the spine of acidity lasting through the end. Sour cherry notes have good depth with the acidity providing tension. It wraps up with citric grip. ***(*) Now – 2022.
2003 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Alcohol 13.5%. This wine shows more age with good, chewy fruit, herbs, spices, and supporting acidity. The power of the vintage is revealed in the middle. Very ripe, dried fruit pokes out. *** Now – 2022.
2001 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Imported by Ex Cellars Wine Agencies. Alcohol 13%. Another mature wine, this one savory with more structure, a tart black middle, and sappy sour cherry. There is fine focus to the fruit which comes across as younger with air. ***(*) Now – 2025.
1999 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Le Château d’Ampuis
Imported by Boston Wine Company. Alcohol 13%. This weighty wine has mixed spices and a savory middle of red fruit and grippy tannins. Youthful as well and drinking so well. **** Now – 2027.
2007 Dr. Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. Alcohol 7.5%. An amber color with a honied nose. A touch of a lively start before a round glycerin body of ripe, yellow fruit. Honey and spices mix in the somewhat short finish. *** Now.
A tasting of Rioja from the great 1964 Vintage
The 1964 vintage in Rioja, considered the greatest of the 20th century, was not met with any fanfare in America nor in England. It was not because the top wines, only bottled in the 1970s and released as late as 1980, were unavailable to taste. Throughout the 1960s Rioja was still viewed as the best wine of Spain but it was the opinion, as expressed by Ronald Avery, that in the hierarchy of wines Rioja was equivalent to “a decent little claret”. As such Rioja only received attention as an alternative inexpensive wine.
This was not always the case. Between the World Wars the Bodegas Paternina Rioja Riserva cost as much as Chateau Lafite in America. When Bordeaux prices soared in America during the early 1970s, attention turned back to Rioja. Still viewed as the “less sophisticated cousin of Bordeaux” low prices meant the wines of Rioja became imported in increasingly larger quantities. In 1976, nearly three dozen Rioja producers hired a public relations firm in America. Success must have been achieved for the next year Frank J. Prial wrote in The New York Times that “Red Rioja Wine Is Excellent”.
There was widespread coverage of the 50th anniversary of the 1964 Rioja vintage. Decanter magazine found it a vintage to drink soon with some wines tired but the best wines are “still fruity and intense”. I decided to host my own tasting based on my positive experience with several different bottles shared by Mannie Berk, The Rare Wine Co., and my recent CVNE Viña Real and Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva from 1976-1964 tasting. This past weekend I gathered a group to explore nine different wines from seven different producers. This is no small feat for there were just over two dozen producers who bottled the 1964 vintage.
We departed from our usual Champagne start to one of very old German wines. At the CVNE tasting, the Rieslingfeier event and scarcity of old vintages was of topic which prompted one very generous guest to share three 100+ year old wines as well as a bottle from the 1964 vintage. This unprecedented vertical of the vintages 1964, 1915, 1905, and 1898 are all Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Auslese from Weingut Franz Karl Schmitt.
These four bottles were purchased at the Sotheby’s auction of the Don Stott cellar. Our generous guest has drunk wine with Don Stott so with knowledge of the cellar and the uniqueness of the opportunity, the wines were acquired.
Weingut Franz Karl Schmitt was founded in 1549 and has been in family possession ever since those days. It was in 1900 that Franz-Karl Schmitt, grandfather of the current owner, produced the first trockenbeerenauslese in Rheinhessen from the Flaschenhahl vineyard in Hipping. The four bottles we tasted bear variations in name: Franz Karl Schmitt, Hermann Franz Schmitt, and Hermannshof. They are all from the same winery bearing new labels and corks. The later marked with Herrmannshof Neuverkorkt 1998.
The label on the oldest bottle from 1898 does not indicate the grape. Nierstein is home to Sylvaner and in 1910 only 15% of it was planted with Riesling. It is possible this is a blend of Riesling and Sylvaner which echoes a comment Michael Broadbent made about the 1921 Niersteiner Hermannshof TBA. I should also point out this bottle is a Cabinetwein indicating a special wine historically kept in a separate part of the cellar.
The wines were served one at a time out of purposefully procured small wine glasses. This gave us the collective opportunity to taste the wines within minutes of the bottle being opened and individually decide if we wanted to keep the wine around any longer.
All of the wines are in much better shape than I expected. The 1898 Franz Karl Schmitt, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Auslese Cabinetwein, Rheinhessen with honied aromas and medium body, quickly recalibrated my expectations. There is pure pleasure here. Delicacy came in the form of the 1905 Hermann Franz Schmitt, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen which did soon fade to reveal piercing acidity in the finish. The 1915 Hermannshof, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen is unequivocally great from the nose to the pure marmalade flavors, minerals, and unctuous, glycerin filled body. At 102 years of age, the higher residual sugar and acidity will ensure many more years of pleasure. In fact, the dregs of the bottle drank well at the end of the evening.
With respect to the three oldest bottles, vintage variation aside, there is a sense of continuity in flavor from herbs and apricots. In returning to the wines I was left with the feeling that the 1898 and 1905 were made using similar methods whereas the 1915 was made by a different hand. However, vintages do matter which accounts for the unctuous 1915 and round, racy 1964 Hermannshof, Niersteiner Kehr Und Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen. These wines deserve a closer historical look so I will write a follow up post in the near future.
We cleansed our palates with the textured NV Grands Comptoirs Champenois, Champagne Brut Comte de Vic. This is a late 1980s to early 1990s release with fully mature flavors, yeast, and never-ending texture. I found it best on the second night, once again highlighting that a non-vintage Champagne may deserve careful aging.
Fate finally caught up with me for four of our 1964 Rioja bottles were affected by TCA leaving five to be enjoyed. All of these wines were double-decanted before being served in flights of three. The most surprising wine is the 1964 Campo Viejo, Rioja which is the basic wine made just one year after the founding of the winery. In fact Campo Viejo switched facilities in 1965. This wine still reveals ripe fruit mixed with spices made possible by the comparatively short time spent in oak.
My favorites include the 1964 Riojanas, Monte Real, Rioja Gran Reserva, the 1964 Gomez Cruzado, Honorable, Rioja Gran Reserva , and the 1964 Bodegas Montecillo, Vina Monty, Rioja. Incredibly, the Monte Real appears to still be developing due to youthful focus. The Gomez Cruzado never lost all of its bottle stink but in the mouth it is crisp with wood notes and certainly a wine to try again. I found the Montecillo, the only all Tempranillo wine we tasted, the roundest.
These particular wines show the success achieved with Tempranillo based blends based on old, dry-farmed, bush vines raised with the traditional method of long oak aging. This method of winemaking developed in the 19th century based on Bordeaux techniques and adopted to what was best for Rioja. They are not fragile when exposed to air and all have a good spine of acidity which allows them live on. The tasting also reminds us that there are no guarantees with old bottles.
Please find my tasting notes below. You will notice a larger than usual number of dinner wine notes at the end. The Madeira collector Bob Stern, whom I first met several years ago, was in town and able to join. He has taken his passion one step further and is now importing Madeira from H. M. Borges. Thus he could present an array of samples for us to taste.
I could not have organized this tasting without Mannie Berk, The Rare Wine Co., offering me his precious bottles of Rioja. I must also thank our generous guest who, in sharing his German wines, ensured a once in a lifetime experience to taste three German wines older than one century.
A German Start
1898 Franz Karl Schmitt, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Auslese Cabinetwein, Rheinhessen
Shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines. Imported by Wine Cellars. Tagged The Don Stott Cellar. Recorked in 1998. New labels. A very clear, tawny amber color. The nose is touched by boytrtis with honied aromas, fresh herbs, and tea. The flavors are drier than expected, of medium body, and of sharp yet focused acidity. The body speaks of remarkable condition as tangy, lemon citrus flavors come out in the middle, all of it persisting through the long finish. ***(*) Now.
1905 Hermann Franz Schmitt, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen
Shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines. Imported by Wine Cellars. Tagged The Don Stott Cellar. Recorked in 1998. New labels. A very clear, lighter tawny amber with a touch more yellow. There is a botrytis touch as well but this is the most delicate wine of the quartet of old Germans. It too is dry with fresh and bright acidity, herbs, and a savory, short finish. It dries out quicker revealing piercing acidity in the end. ** Now.
1915 Hermannshof, Niersteiner Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen
Shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines. Imported by Wine Cellars. Tagged The Don Stott Cellar. Recorked in 1998. New labels. The darkest being tawny in color. This still smells great. In the mouth it is unctuous and mineral infused with plenty of forward body. Flavors of apricot and peach mix with orange marmalade. This is a good wine with round, glycerin body. **** Now – 2027.
1964 Hermannshof, Niersteiner Kehr Und Flaschenhahl Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen
Shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines. Imported by Wine Cellars. Tagged The Don Stott Cellar. Recorked in 1998. New labels. Of yellow straw the color is the lightest and the nose the most subtle. One is not prepared for the much sweeter and rounded flavors in this unctuous wine. There is still ripe fruit, fine tea notes, and a racy character. **** Now – 2027.
Palate Cleansing Champagne
NV Grands Comptoirs Champenois, Champagne Brut Comte de Vic
Imported by The RareWine Co. Alcohol 12%. A very clear amber color. It is best on the second day. There are very fine, strong bubbles which quickly form a mousse that adds ripe texture to the start. Flavors of ripe white then yellow fruit mix with yeast and mature notes. With air ripe spices come out in the watering finish. ***(*) Now but will last.
1964 Rioja
1964 Bilbainas, Clarete Fino, Rioja Gran Reserva
Founded in 1901 by Santiago Ugarte, the son of a wine negociant, during the Rioja phylloxera epidemic. The main winery was built at Barrio de la Estacion in Haro. This wine is a blend of 65% Tempranillo and 35% Garnacha that spent 9-10 years in American oak barrels. TCA. Not Rated.
1964 Bilbainas, Vendimia Especial, Rioja Reserva
One of the top wines this wine is a blend of70% Tempranillo and 30% Garnacha sourced from the Zaco vineyard. It spent 18 months in large wooden vats then 6-8 (or 9-10) years in American oak barrels. This is a bright wine with tart red fruit and a grippy nature. The wine is still youthful but the leather notes speak of age. *** Now but will last.
1964 Bilbainas, Vina Pomal, Rioja Reserva Especial
This label has existed for over 100 years and always featured fruit from the Vina Pomal vineyard between the Ebro and Tiron rivers. Apparently Winston Church drank it regularly. It is a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, and 5% Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura. It spent 1 year in tank followed by 6-7 years in American oak barriques. TCA. Not Rated.
1964 Campo Viejo, Rioja
Founded in 1963, Camp Viejo moved from Rioja Baja to an industrial part of Logrono in 1965. The Crianza is typically a blend of mostly 80% Tempranillo followed by 20% Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano. It spent 18 months in large vats followed by 30 months in American oak barriques. A fine nose makes way to a fruity start that is still ripe and flavored by spices in the finish. The relatively short aging in wood results in this wine having the most fruit out of all tasted. Perhaps not the most complex flavors the wine is, nevertheless, a fine drink with finely textured, ripe flavors. *** Now – 2022.
1964 Franco-Espanolas, Excelsos, Rioja Gran Reserva
Bodegas Franco-Espanolas history begins in 1890 when Frederick Anglade Saurat came to Logrono from Bordeaux. Once his vineyards were in full production he founded the Bodegas, with Spanish capital, in 1901. The Excelsos is the top gran reserve released only in the best vintages. This rare wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo that spent 18 months in large wooden vats and 6-7 years in American oak barrels. It was released in 1980. TCA. Not Rated.
1964 Gomez Cruzado, Honorable, Rioja Gran Reserva
Founded in 1886. This is a blend of 65% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo and Graciano. This is fermented and raised in large wooden vats for 24 months followed by aging for 5 years in old American oak barrels. It was bottled in 1972. Quite stinky at first then a transition to an attractive funk. However it is clean in the mouth where there are very lively flavors, crisp fruit, and wood shavings. A delight in the mouth. If I am picky, the finish is a little short. ***(*) Now – 2025.
1964 Bodegas Montecillo, Vina Monty, Rioja
Founded in 1870, Bodegas Montecillo is one of the oldest firms in Rioja. The Vina Monty is the top wine. Produced solely from Tempranillo it spent 6 to 12 months in large wooden vats then 48 months in American oak barrels. The 1964 vintage was produced at the old winery pre-dating the Osborne acquisition of 1973. A good nose of fruit and mixed herbs. There is round, red fruit, bright acidity, and a fine wood note. ***(*) Now – 2022.
1964 Frederico Paternina, Rioja Gran Reserva
Founded in 1898, Frederico Paternina owns no vineyards. This is a blend of 70% Tempranillo with 30% Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano. This Gran Reserva spent up to six years in American oak barrels and other volumes. TCA. Not Rated.
1964 Riojanas, Monte Real, Rioja Gran Reserva
Founded in 1890. A blend of mostly 70% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Graciano, and 3% Viura and Malvasia. It spent 12 to 18 months in large wooden tanks then aged for 4.5 to 6 years in American oak casks and other sizes. Part of the fruit underwent carbonic maceration. A touch musty at first but cleans up to reveal aromas of broth. The bright flavors of cranberry are fresh and grippy. The wine is driven by acidity. This is the most youthful wine of them all, still focused and on the upslope of development. ***(*) Now – 2025.
Dinner Wines
1970 LAN, Lanciano Rioja
Founded in 1970. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo that spent 18 months in tank and 2 years in American oak casks. Imported by The Rare Wine Co. Quite comforting with a combination of wood box notes, mature yet freshly delivered red fruit, and garrigue. The flavors become meaty with air. There is moderate weight and though the tannins are largely resolved a bit of structure comes out in the finish. ***(*) Now but will last.
1978 Torres, Gran Coronas, Penedes Reserva
Imported by Chateau & Estates. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was fermented in stainless steel then aged for 18 months in American oak casks. It was bottled in 1980. Alcohol 12.5%. There is a tart, assertive start that is infused with some funk. The wine soon becomes weightier with prominent acidity, green pepper notes, and tons of grip. Quite fun to drink. *** Now but will last.
2007 Bonneau, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by Bordeaux Wine Locators. Alcohol 15%. This lively red wine is bright in flavor and poised for many years of development. I particularly like the fine mixture of Christmas spices which add complexity to the red fruit. A real treat, I wish I had tasted it some more. **** Now – 2027.
NV Rare Wine Co, Henriques & Henriques Imperial Reserve Malmsey
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. This Madeira is a blend of old stocks of Malmsey from Henriques & Henriques. Mannie created the blend with John Cossart shortly before he passed away. It was released in honor of John Cossart in 2008. Alcohol 20%. There are pungent aromas of orange marmalade. In the mouth is a rounded, dense start followed by powerful pungent flavors and racy residual sugar. Supporting this is acidity to match. The wine is incensed with Christmas spices. I imagine this will slowly develop for a few more decades. ****.
1990 H. M. Borges, Sercial
Imported by Next Chapter Wines & Spirits. Alcohol 20%. An amber-tawny color. Slightly pungent on the nose it is off to a round start that immediately unleashes piercing acidity. There is lovely body weight which adds tension to this acidity driven wine. Complexity comes from baking spices. ****.
NV H. M. Borges, 15 year old Verdelho
Imported by Next Chapter Wines & Spirits. Alcohol 19%. There is a low-lying, deep nose. In the mouth are taut orange citrus flavor and round body with piercing, laser sharp acidity. Sweet and tense. Good future potential. ***.
2005 H. M. Borges, Tina Negra Colheita
Alcohol 20%. Bottled in 2017. A very good, deep nose. A racy, weighty start brings ripe flavors and sweetness in this round, tense wine. A cherry middle makes way to a sweeter finish. Good stuff. ***(*).
1998 H.M. Borges, Malmsey Colheita
This wine was aged in casks for over 8 years. Bottled in 2006/7. Alcohol 19%. A touch of satisfying pungency on the nose. In this mouth this is a powerful wine with fruit, nuts, and piercing acidity. ***.
1995 H. M. Borges, Bual Colheita
This wine was aged in oak casks for at least 5 years. Alcohol 19%. A pungent, piercing nose. In the mouth are spicy flavors delivered as a tense core. Notes of evergreen and Christmas spices add complexity before the textured finish. ***(*).
The Old White from Lazio
Three years ago Mannie Berk, The Rare Wine Co., visited winemaker Antonio Pulcini at the 2,000 year old villa overlooking Rome where he makes wine. Pulcini only sells his wine out of the cellar door so the journey was the only way Mannie could secure a parcel of the top wine from his Colle Gaio vineyard. At this vineyard vines of the indigenous Malvasia del Lazio grow on volcanic tufa.
This summer Mannie shared a bottle of the 1996 Casal Pilozzo Colli di Catone, Colle Gaio, The Old White, Lazio. This is an interesting white wine with round flavors of fruit, Christmas spices, and lees. This vintage is fully mature, though by no means tired, offering a combination of flavors I had never experienced before. Curious wine drinkers should search out The Old White.
1996 Casal Pilozzo Colli di Catone, Colle Gaio, The Old White, Lazio
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. This wine is 100% Malvasia del Lazio. Alcohol 12.5%. This mouth filling wine yields an interesting combination of yellow and white fruit, Christmas spices, and notes of lees. There are mineral notes and a round finish. This mature wine is for drinking now. *** Now.
You should try the 2016 Agrina, Portuguiser from Serbia
The 2016 Agrina, Portuguiser, Fruska Gora is in fine form. It reminds me of a traditionally made wine with its lifted strawberry flavors that are mouth filling yet not weighed down. It has depth yet is not tiring to drink. Now it is a bit prickly on the tongue, which distracted Jenn, but if that is acceptable then the flavors will transport you somewhere else. You may find this fun wine at MacArthur Beverages.
2016 Agrina, Portuguiser, Fruska Gora – $13
Imported by Winebow. This wine is 100% Portuguiser. Alcohol 13%. The wine is very lively on the tongue, just on the side of prickly which provides ample feeling on the tongue. There is bright red fruit that is quite deep in flavor that resolves into lifted, ripe strawberry over black fruit notes. It is mineral by the finish with an ethereal, sweet aftertaste. Very satisfying. *** Now – 2018.
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