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Saperavi for a Snowy Day
If you spent part of your day shoveling snow then you should recuperate by a fire. A hearty meal and a glass or two of Georgian Saperavi will shake off any remaining coldness. Of the trio featured in this post, the label of the 2016 Zurab Topuridze, Iberieli, Saperavi Light Bodied, Kakheti leaves something to be desired but the wine does not. Though the lightest colored and lightest bodied, it requires a full day in the decanter to open up. You are then treated to a nose of berry fruit and more interestingly, black tea and floral flavors. It is almost zippy which keeps it fresh. It becomes a touch yeasty with extended air so my recommendation is to drink between 24-48 hours in the decanter. It is my favorite of the three being a lighter wine,which makes it easier to experience the various flavors. I have tried two bottles of 2016 Tanini, Qvevri Saperavi, Kakheti. Decanting is required as well. This wine exhibits the inky intensity that I have only experienced with Saperavi raised in qvevri. This is a more mineral wine with one bottle exhibiting floral notes. Though it should be drunk after decanting, I believe it should be cellared for another year. The 2016 Pheasant’s Tears, Saperavi, Kakheti represents the most amount of flavor for the cost. If you want a fully immersive experience then grab a bottle. Despite the packed in flavors of black fruit and minerals there is spot-on zippy acidity. You may find these wines at MacArthur Beverages.
2016 Zurab Topuridze, Iberieli, Saperavi Light Bodied, Kakheti – $22
Imported by Terrell Wines. This wine is 100% Saperavi that was fermented and raised in qvevri. Alcohol 13.%. A medium, cranberry-cherry color. Brighter berry fruit, almost delicate on the nose. In the mouth the acidity is lively almost zippy on which the flavors of black tea are floral accented. Actually quite attractive with extended air. Unique with a long aftertaste. *** Now – 2029.
2016 Tanini, Qvevri Saperavi, Kakheti – $20
Imported by Terrell Wines. Alcohol 15%. An almost black cherry color, bordering on completely opaque. An intense fruit start mineral middle with focused fruit flavors textured by fruit extract. One bottle showed more floral tones. Lively acidity with a nutty undertone. **(*) 2020 – 2029
2016 Pheasant’s Tears, Saperavi, Kakheti – $17
Imported by Terrell Wines. This wine is 100% Saperavi that was fermented and raised in qvevri. Alcohol 14%. This is surely, completely opaque in the glass. An intense wine with black fruit and minerals. The fruit is focused with a zippy personality then watering acidity by the finish. The flavor is closely played right now but it is clearly packed in. Incredible amounts of flavor but a bit much for me. ** Now to whenever.
An Afternoon with Mature Wine – Part 2 Old Cali
After four largely good bottles of old Nebbiolo, the three of us needed more wine to taste so out came several bottles of old Californian wine. The 1977 Franciscan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, by way of Reid Wines of Bristol, was a mess of herbaceous, evergreen notes. The pair of 1975 Harbor Winery bottles proved more interesting with the 1975 Harbor Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Deaver Vineyard, Shenandoah Valley a clear favorite of this grouping.
Harbor Winery was founded in 1972 by Charles Myers of Sacramento with a goal “of bottling wine from a particular terrain”. Myers was an amateur winemaker and English instructor at Sacramento City College. His first 1,000 gallons of commercial wines were released in 1973 and by 1980, output hit 3,000 gallons.
Myers first produced a “terrible” zinfandel in 1954 but two years later, when he had moved to Sacramento, he was making 200 gallons of drinkable wine on an annual basis. The Corti Brothers encouraged Myers to go commercial and they even advertised the sale of his first wine in 1974. Harbor Winery, being the only small commercial winery in Sacramento, attracted frequent coverage in the Sacramento Bee from which this brief history stems. The Harbor Winery selections were soon sold not just locally, but in Los Angeles and San Francisco with a rare appearance at The Ritz London.
Darrell Corti felt the local Sacramento grapes were no good, a sentiment shared by Myers. Myers first turned to Amador County in 1964 when he was looking for Muscat and in the process was introduced to the Zinfandels. It was one decade later, in 1974, that Myers first purchased Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from the Deaver Ranch in Amador County. The 1975 we drank would then be Myers’ second commercial vintage of this wine. He felt the future of the 1974 looked “very good” at the time and this must have extended to the 1975. I found it deep fruited with tension from acidity. There is still the coarseness or absence of “subtlety and elegance” Myers attributed to Amador County.
The 1975 Harbor Winery, Zinfandel, Deaver Vineyard, Shenandoah Valley is not as good as the Cabernet Sauvignon. As I have described in other posts, Amador County Zinfandel was “discovered” during the wine boom. Myers utilized carbonic maceration to make a Zinfandel for immediate drinking which is the opposite of what Sutter Home and Montevina were releasing at the time. I found our bottle hollow.
We finished up with a soft, simple 1974 Charles Krug, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. It is a little wine where the volume is fading.
1977 Franciscan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Imported by Peter Eckes. Alcohol 12%. Tons of herbaceous, evergreen aromas and flavors. Ugh. Not Rated.
1975 Harbor Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Deaver Vineyard, Shenandoah Valley
Alcohol 13.5%. Scented on the nose. In the mouth, deep fruited, fresh, with a soda-like tension. The nice acidity keeps the edges sharp to the sweet, lifted, fruit. There is even a note of cedar. There is a sense of coarseness but the settles down and lies low. *** Now.
1975 Harbor Winery, Zinfandel, Deaver Vineyard, Shenandoah Valley
Alcohol 13.5%. Red berries on the nose. Wood notes with black fruit greet but the middle is hollow followed by a cola-like finish. There is grip and a lipsticky finish. too bad. Drinkable but only of minor interest. *(*) Now.
1974 Charles Krug, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Alcohol 12%. A soft, gentle wine in need of more acidity. Flavors of leather, gentle red fruit, and cedar fade towards the finish. Simple but not flawed. The nearly full bottle tasted exactly the same on the second day. ** Now drink up.
A pair of rosé for more warm weather
With warm, sunny weather returning to the Washington, DC, area, here are two bottles of rosé you might consider. The 2017 Reichstrat von Buhl, Spatburgunder Rose Trocken Pfalz will cater towards those who prefer dry rosé with a kick of acidity. The profile is all about dried florals with a clean finish. I find the 2017 Puech-Haut, Prestige Rosé , Languedoc-Roussillon more satisfying with its mixture of peach and florals. I like a bit of fruit in my rosé, which this bottle delivers, without leaving freshness behind. You may find them at MacArthur Beverages.
2017 Reichstrat von Buhl, Spatburgunder Rose Trocken Pfalz – $18
Imported by Cellars International. Alcohol 12%. A medium-dark, dried rose and salmon color. Dried florals with dried red fruit persist in this acidity driven wine. There is some ethereal ripeness that pops up in the end but this is a dry wine throughout with a bit of tang. ** Now but will last.
2017 Puech-Haut, Prestige Rosé, Languedoc-Roussillon – $18
Imported by European Cellars. This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Cinsault. Alcohol 13%. Fresh yet with floral weight. Flavors of peach mix with white, ripe fruit, and dry roses. This is all about the floral fruit and enjoyable as a result. *** Now.
A modest López de Heredia tasting
I recently met up with Sudip to taste seven wines from López de Heredia; three Viña Gravonia, three Viña Bosconia, and one Viña Tondonia as a reference. López de Heredia dates back to the 19th century in Rioja but for our purposes we concentrated on relatively young vintages back to 1998. I was most curious to see how much vintage variation there is.
Of the trio of 2004, 2002, and 1998 Viña Gravonia I much preferred the oldest vintage. All of the wines bear oxidized, apple orchard aromas and flavors but the 1998 sports the least being the most vinous. It has zippy acidity with some ripeness to the flavors. The 2000 was pungent, evocative of mushrooms and the simplest. The 2004 is clearly the youngest. It is crisp with tart lemon and clean flavors. I found it a bit tight and think it will drink better several years down the road. Once these wines develop they should hold well for years. For those who have yet to taste Gravonia it is unique.
All of the red wines were double-decanted. The 1999 Viña Bosconia quickly became and remained my favorite Bosconia for current drinking, in fact it is still young! It combines both fruit, damp earth, and bottle age, all delivered with tension. I expect further cellaring to be beneficial. The 2000 is muted and mature. The 2005 is young but already sports some earthy funk like the 1999. The structure and acidity is there for development, which is certainly will do, but our bottle of 1999 reveals greater potential.
Finally, the 2005 Viña Tondonia shows great potential. It is savory, young and dense in a way that there is stuffing for decades of aging supported by the structure. It is drinkable now but remains closely played. It is worth the extra $5 over the 2005 Viña Bosconia.
2004 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12.5%. The most aromatic with yeasty, apple orchard aromas. A touch more acidity in the mouth, tart lemon, clean, good body, and wood-like texture. Crisp. **(*) Now – 2023 then will last.
2002 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12.5%. A pungent nose of orchard fruit. A soft entry of mushroom-like flavor, then acidity and apple-orchard in the finish. The simplest of the trio. ** Now.
1998 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by USA Wine Imports. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12%. A golden honey color. Good nose. An oxidized hint though the wine is more vinous with apple-like, zippy acidity. There is modest body to the ethereal ripe flavors which cover the mouth but leave the middle slightly hollow. There less noticeable acidity in the end. *** Now but will last.
2005 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva – $35
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13.5%. Good fruit, cherry flavors, and a little earth have grapey density into the tart, cranberry middle. A young natured wine but already some attractive funk is present. With air a supporting, fine dry structure becomes evident with dry, black and red flavors in the finish. *** Now – 2028.
2000 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva
Imported by Polarn Selections. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. The most muted nose of the four reds with a bit of stink. A bit more mature in the mouth, red fruit, watering acidity, a touch of ink then sharper in the finish. With air it is dusty in the mouth with a similar profile but more pronounced sour cherry flavor. Not the best of the trio. *(*) Now.
1999 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva
Imported by USA Wine Imports. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. Aromatic with attractive damp earth notes. Fruiter in the mouth, cedar, bottle age flavors, and fine textured tannins add presence. There is citric tension and grip to add life. With air there remains a core of flavor which carries through the end with an aftertaste of sour cherries and acidity. ***(*) Now – 2028.
2005 López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Rioja Riserva – $40
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 5% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. Young, fruity, and dense. With air this savory wine shows body but also has the acidity and structure for it to age. Strong future potential. **** Now – 2038.
A mixture of wines young and old
I met up with Lou and another friend for a casual after-work tasting of wines. We started with a pair of bottles from the Finger Lakes of New York. I have now enjoyed the 2016 Red Tail Ridge Winery, Sparkling Riesling Petillant Naturel, Finger Lakes on three different occasions. This bottle was particularly frothy with a core of fruit and vein of bubbles that make it delicious to drink right now. Also made from Riesling, but smelling like there is Sauvignon Blanc as well, is the 2016 Heart & Hands, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes. It is a solid wine of tart citrus and chalk flavor.
The pair of 2014 White Burgundy yielded a generous, rapidly maturing 2014 Gautier Thevenet, Domaine Emilian Gillet, Quintaine, Vire-Clesse. Of good value I would say. In comparison, the 2014 Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet is less fruity and the better wine. With a core of lemon and ripe apple, there is an acidic spine, all of which lasts with good length.
Made from the youngest vines, 2017 Pierre-Marie Chermette, Griottes, Beaujolais is a well-made, enjoyable, grapey wine. It is pure, fresh, and acted as our gateway to a trio of mystery wines.
I admit to being confused. I had settled in on the wines being from the 1960s and 1970s, with origins in Italy or California, and at least one Cabernet Sauvignon. Mystery #1 – 1974 Croce di Fralupaia, Chianti was younger than I thought but not worth drinking. Mystery #2 – 1991 Tenuta Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino was also younger than I thought but sound, which gives you an ideal of its maturity curve. With air it took on body and flavor to become rather enjoyable. The final bottle is the modest Mystery #3 – 1984 Steltzner Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley.
2016 Red Tail Ridge Winery, Sparkling Riesling Petillant Naturel, Finger Lakes
Alcohol 13%. Very frothy at first but the body soon develops. There is a focused fruit core with the fine bubble vein. With air and warmth the Riesling origins come out. Easy to drink. *** Now – 2020.
2016 Heart & Hands, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes
Alcohol 11.5%. A very light straw color. A good nose, aromatic with both grassy and petrol aromas. A soft frame exists for the whole fruit Riesling flavor. There is some chalk and a slightly, tart citrus flavor in the end. The acidity is balanced by the sugar such that it does not come across as lively. Some engaging grip develops. ** Now.
2014 Gautier Thevenet, Domaine Emilian Gillet, Quintaine, Vire-Clesse
Imported by Simon N Cellars. Alcohol 14%. A very light yellow. A rounded edge with with ripe lemon flavors, stones in the middle, and some fat in the finish. It is easy to drink and will mature rapidly. **(*) Now – 2020.
2014 Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet
Alcohol 13%. A very light green yellow color. There is a focused fruit impression at first but this wine is not all about the fruit. It is dense and focused with a good, acidic spine. There are hints of yeast and wood. With air the flavors settle on lemon with a ripe, apple core. Good length. *** Now – 2023.
2017 Pierre-Marie Chermette, Griottes, Beaujolais
Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. Alcohol 12.5%. A purple, red cranberry color. Grapey and bright on the nose. The flavors are evocative of young, grape juicy being light, very pure, and fresh. Tart berries and grip are closed by a round, verve finish. ** Now.
Mystery #1 – 1974 Croce di Fralupaia, Chianti
Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12%. Past prime on the nose with a banana aroma. In the mouth it is falling apart with some leather, animale, and a hint of freshness. There is a touch of fat-edged flavor and body but it soon turns acidic with green apple flavors. Past prime. Not Rated.
Mystery #2 – 1991 Tenuta Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino
Imported by Palace Brands. Alcohol 13%. A garnet, brick color. It tasted quite mature at first with bottle aged flavors, citric acidity, and citric pithe on the gums. But magically, with air, it develops both body and flavor. It even takes on a luxurious, marshmallow mouth feel. *** Now.
Mystery #3 – 1984 Steltzner Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Earthy fruit with red cranberry flavors, a grippy nature, and clearly the most acidic of all the wines tasted. Vibrant but a bit thin in flavor with a slight green edge. ** Now.