Three CdP and a Ringer
Lou and I gathered outside to taste a small selection of Chateauneuf du Pape and one ringer. The 1978 Chapoutier, La Bernardine, Chateauneuf du Pape smells very good (it sports concentrated sweet aromas only brought by age) but the flavors do not deliver the same level of quality. The 1981 Monterey Peninsula Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Doctor’s Reserve, Monterey County smells OK but is interesting in the mouth. The nose certainly reflects the cooler climate of Monterey as do the tart flavors. A solid start.
The 2003 Les Cailloux (Brunel), Chateauneuf du Pape requires a bit of air to balance out. It is currently more complex and evolved (though will develop further) than the 2006 Domaine de Cristia, Chateauneuf du Pape. This later wine has good tension to support its future potential.
1978 Chapoutier, La Bernardine, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by Charles Lefranc Cellars. Alcohol 14%. In fine condition. Proper concentrated aromas are evocative of the 1960s and 1970s. In the mouth are bright flavors of tart, red fruit with bright acidity to carry it through. Unfortunately, the nose is more complex that in the mouth where the flavors hollow out at the finish. ** Drink Up.
1981 Monterey Peninsula Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Doctor’s Reserve, Monterey County
Alcohol 11.7%. Aromas of menthol and herbaceousness. A ripe hint in the mouth is soon followed by flavors of sweet tarts matched by chalky tannins. The wine builds in flavor, with the tart cherry core lasting throughout. An interesting wine. **(*) Now.
2003 Les Cailloux (Brunel), Chateauneuf du Pape
Alcohol 14.5%. The nose responds to air, improving with a deep note. It is initially quite ripe in flavor but this cleans up to reveal deep red, complex fruit, watering acidity, and ripe tannins. The fruit continues through the aftertaste. Quite enjoyable and certainly able to develop further over a few more years. ***(*) Now – 2032.
2006 Domaine de Cristia, Chateauneuf du Pape
Baking spices on the nose. More specifically Nuremberg Lebkuchen. A young, fresh wine which is ripe yet tense in balance with the acidity. The ripe, chewy tannins are attractive and so is the tangy acidity. In a markedly younger state than the Les Cailloux, it could stand further age to develop those bottle aged aromas and flavors. *** Now – 2035.
A pair of 1960s Oleggio and Beccaro from Alto Piemonte
On a dark December night, Sudip and I tried two old bottles of wine from the Novara-Vercelli hills of Alto Piemonte, home to such wines as Gattinara and Ghemme. I can find little on the 1961 Cantina Sociale Cooperativa di Oleggio, Vino Vecchia Collina Riserva. It probably has a base of Spanna with some amount of Bonarda and Vespolina, all three of which were certainly blended together for our second wine. We know more about the 1964 Armando Beccaro, Vino Mesolone since this Mesolone was solely made by Armando Beccaro and son, of whom Mario Soldati recounted his visit in “Vino al Vino.”
The Oleggio has promise with its attractive and pervasive earthy note which matches its vinous nature. Perhaps in a vintage like 1964, if it sports more fruit, then the acidity will be balanced out. For now this is a solid table wine to consume with a meal. The Beccaro opens up with air. Regarded as a full-bodied wine in its youth, the dense, sweet flavors of fruit compote come out, anchoring the wine with pleasure as wood-box notes and spices add to the pleasure. It is a successful blend, showing a profile different than that of pure Spanna, and definitely a wine I would be happy to drink again.
1961 Cantina Sociale Cooperativa di Oleggio, Vino Vecchia Collina Riserva
Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12.5%. Earthy at first. Fresh menthol flavors in the mouth with tart acidity driving earthy red fruit into a vinous, old bottled aged wine middle. The fruit is sweeter in the finish, likewise the attractive earthy note is longish in the aftertaste. A solid wine whose acidity is taking over the flavors. ** Now.
1964 Armando Beccaro, Vino Mesolone
Imported by T. Elenteny. A blend of roughly 50% Spanna, 30% Bonarda, and 20% Vespolina exclusively from family vines. It was fermented for three weeks then racked once a year until it was bottled in the third or fourth year. Alcohol 13%. A fresh nose with menthol notes. This builds sweetness with air forming a sweet, fruity middle with a wood box finish. A mid-weight wine, it is mixed with spices which become slightly spicy by the finish. It responds well with air becoming dense in the middle with a compote of sweet, textured fruit extract. *** Now.
Chinon from Alliet, Baudry, and Joguet
I followed all three of these Chinon over the course of two days. For immediate drinking, I highly recommend you try the 2017 Domaine Bernard Baudry, Le Domaine, Chinon. I love an earthy hint in my wine and the Baudry provides just that both in aroma and flavor. It is a compelling example of Chinon. The 2018 Philippe Alliet, Chinon is young right now as it remains firm in the glass. There is good material in there so lay it down for a year. I found the 2017 Charles Joguet, Cuvee Terroir, Chinon tart yet full of stone notes. It is, perhaps, an early drinking wine but with the price similarity I’d grab the Alliet and Baudry.
2018 Philippe Alliet, Chinon – $22 at MacArthur Beverages
A Thomas Calder Selection imported by Potomac Selections. Alcohol 13%. A dark, grapey purple. Not quite as tart as the Joguet, there is a fine vein of dark red fruit, juicy acidity, and hints of pastilles. It is mineral in the end with a bit of lift in the aftertaste. With air, the fruit remains clean flavored but it picks up some salt before the firm finish. *** 2021-2026.
2017 Domaine Bernard Baudry, Le Domaine, Chinon – $24 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Louis/Dressner. This wine is 100% Cabernet Franc sourced from 30-35 year old vines, fermented in cement vats then aged 15 months in concrete and wood vats. Aromas of bright fruit with earth then scented black pepper and herbs. Similar flavors in the mouth with juicy acidity. The earth mixes well with the black fruit. There is a good cut of acidity throughout with minerals and earth in the finish. Young yet very good. ***(*) Now – 2024.
2017 Charles Joguet, Cuvee Terroir, Chinon – $22 at MacArthur Beverages
Imported by Kermit Lynch. Alcohol 13%. Tart red and black fruit with tart acidity before it develops minerals and stone notes. There is some ethereal weight. ** Now – 2022.
A tasting with Lou: Sandlands, Sanguis, Soumade and more
Lou and I gathered quite a while ago to drink some randomly selected wines. A new wine for me is the NV Phillippe Tessier, Phil’en Bulle. It is a little sweet for me so perhaps better with dessert. Of particular note is the white wine 2017 Linne Calodo, Contrarian, Paso Robles. I should also note the very young 2016 Domaine la Soumade, Cuvee Prestige, Rasteau which, with several years of age, will become a very good wine. 2017 Sandlands Vineyards, Red Table Wine, Contra Costa County is a young wine for drinking now. A solid bottle of 1989 Raymond Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, Napa Valley delivered surprise and pleasure. A pair of Sanguis offered a fun comparison even if they should have been drunk up a few years ago. The 2011 Sanguis, 11-A, John Bastiano is very clean, chalky, and full of verve. For a brief bit, I preferred the luxury of the 2011 Sanguis, 11-B, Bienacido but it sadly cracked up after a short period.
NV Phillippe Tessier, Phil’en Bulle, Loire
A Zev Rovine Selection imported by Fruit of the Vine. Alcohol 12.5%. A slightly hazy, light straw yellow. Very fine and strong bubbles carry the ripe, sweetish start. Some yeast the short finish. **(*) Now.
2017 Linne Calodo, Contrarian, Paso Robles
This is a blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Picpoul Blanc, and 20% Viognier. Alcohol 13.7%. Refreshing with good acidity white nuts and expansive flavor. A core of tropical fruit remains but the gum, coating texture adds presence. Notes of pastilles in the finish. **** Now – 2022.
2011 Sanguis, 11-A, John Bastiano, Santa Rita Hills
Alcohol 14%. A very light color with a green tinge. A little toast on the nose eventually blows off. Tart with some berry toast. Clean with chalk and yellow fruit. Plenty of verve. ** Now.
2011 Sanguis, 11-B, Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley
Alcohol 14.8%. A touch more fruit and weight, oily in the middle with a steely finish. Racy with good balance, it has some toast flavors. With air it begins to crack up revealing acidity and heat. *** at best but Past Prime.
2017 Sandlands Vineyards, Red Table Wine, Contra Costa County
A blend of Carignan and Mataro. Alcohol 12.9% Grapey with cranberry flavor and chalky tannins. Tart with crunchy acidity this sports an interesting mineral, fruit blend. *** Now – 2022.
2016 Domaine la Soumade, Cuvee Prestige, Rasteau
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. Alcohol 14.5%. A grapey, young color and tight, grapey nose. Tight in the mouth but there is a lovely vein of fruit through the linear structure. Beautiful fat from the ripeness, it is powerful, building flavor. ***(*) 2024-2034.
1989 Raymond Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, Napa Valley
Mature with Eucalyptus. Some firmness in the mouth but the Cab flavor comes out. In fresh shape this is a tasty wine with focused, ripe fruit, some dry wood notes, and structure in the end. *** Now.
A Solid Drink: 1985 Clos Du Bois, Marlstone
When a new friend was recently in town and expressed delight in trying older vintages of wine, I quickly returned with a mature bottle. Unfortunately, this did not happen until a few minutes before we were set to leave the house so I grabbed the less precious 1985 Clos du Bois, Marlstone Vineyard, Alexander Valley. My experience with Californian wine from the 1980s is rather limited compared to the wines of the 1970s. The first release from Clos du Bois came in 1974 with that of Marlstone in 1978. Marlstone is intended as a classic Bordeaux blend hence the thoughtful inclusion of Cabernet Franc and Malbec. This particular vintage is less heralded in Sonoma than Napa which might speak to the herbaceous edge to this wine both on the nose and in the mouth. However, it is deep in aroma with ethereal ripeness in the mouth and juicy acidity. Given the time constraint, I ended up drinking most of it on the second night. While fully mature, it shows good staying power and freshness.
1985 Clos du Bois, Marlstone Vineyard, Alexander Valley
This wine is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec that was aged for nearly 3 years in 60 gallon French oak barrels. Alcohol 13.7%. A deep nose with an herbaceous aroma rising out. Maturing in the mouth, it fluffs out after a few hours. With age have come some wood box notes. The ethereal, ripe, mouth coating nature is balanced by firm, juicy acidity. It is a good wine in an herbaceous way. ** Now but will last.
A Pair of Wines from Arizona
During our recent trip to Arizona, I stopped by Vino Loco in Flagstaff to pick up a few bottles of wine. Both of the wines I selected are Rhone blends made from vines located at 4,300 feet in the Willcox AVA. I found the wines enjoyable but my preference lies with the 2017 Chateau Tumbleweed, Dr. Ron Bot, Willcox. It comes across as a lighter wine with stone notes. The 2017 Caduceus Cellars, Merkin Vineyards, Chupacabra, Willcox reveals more intensity and ripe fruit flavors. If you find yourself in Flagstaff, grab them both for a comparison You will find other interesting selections at Vino Loco including Dirty + Rowdy.
2017 Chateau Tumbleweed, Dr. Ron Bot, Willcox –
This wine is a blend of 33% Syrah, 34% Mourvedre, and 33% Grenache which was aged for a year in used French oak. Alcohol 14.2%. A light to medium cherry color. Cool and fresh in the mouth with not quite firm fruit. The flavors turn blacker towards the finish with black tea notes and stones. Light and clean with a touch of heat in the end. An enjoyable combination of red and black fruit with a tart edge. **(*) Now – 2021.
2017 Caduceus Cellars, Merkin Vineyards, Chupacabra, Willcox –
This wine is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre aged for 11 months in new and used French oak. Alcohol 13.5%. Hints of ripeness at first then cool, focused black fruit. It is firm with a vein of acidity. An interesting flavor with more intensity than balance. ** Now – 2022.