A few mature French wines

I was to bring a bottle of 1982 Chateau Calon-Segur, St Estephe over to Lou’s house. The first was, perhaps, drinkable to some extent.  It was not by the time I arrived at Lou’s house.  The second bottle bore absolutely no relationship to wine so down the drain it went.  Both of these bottles were quite cheap, due to their mid-shoulder fill, proving they were dangerously low fills for a wine of such young age.

We kicked things off with a bottle of 1995 Michel Colin-Deleger, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Charmois from the Earthquake Cellar.  It smelled of the sea with rather mature flavors in the mouth which were delivered with a freshness owing to good storage.  We soon moved on to the pair of Bordeaux selected by Lou.  The fill of the 1983 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac was in the upper shoulder.  While not ideal it was still worth the gamble.  You could see from the color and the smell of roast earth on the nose that it was not the freshest bottle.  It did clean up after several hours of air proving to be a solid, mature Bordeaux of no particular distinction.  This is due to storage and not the chateau.  There was no mistaking the deeper and more pigmented color of the 1979 Chateau L’Evangile, Pomerol as it was poured.  This was reflected in the deep nose and lively fruit in the mouth.  It was the wine Lou and I kept drinking that evening.  It was perfect stuff, really.  I kept drinking it until my daughter kept texting me to return home so that I could read to her before bed.  We were all happy that evening.

1995 Michel Colin-Deleger, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Charmois
Imported by Chateau and Estates.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The lovely golden color makes way to a surprisingly aromatic nose which is evocative of the sea.  The white and yellow fruit is mature with a linear style of delivery.  The wine itself took on some density.  I suspect it was never that complex for it is the attractive mouthfeel that I remember most.  ** Now.

1983 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac
Upper should fill.  The nose reveals a little roast, noticeably more advanced than it should be, eventually taking on smoky, menthol aromas.  In the mouth the wine does expand a bit after several hours of air.  There is red fruit flavors, salivating and not quite tart acidity with lively, grippy tannins.  Though this bottle is not generous and the finish is a little short, I cannot think of anyone who would refuse to knock back a glass.  ** Now.

1979 Chateau L’Evangile, Pomerol
Shipped by Beylot.  Imported by Majestic Wine and Spirits.  Alcohol 12%.  Top shoulder fill.  There is a soft, start of red fruit, a minerally middle, expansive finish, and persistent aftertaste.  The wine is quite lively with salivating, almost sappy acidity.  There is still good fruit that is slightly tart and mixes quite well with the old wood notes.  It is even a little racy at the end.  **** Now but will last.

Five different Spanish wines from five different vintages

The parade of interesting wines I have tasted continue with five selections from Spain.  It is interesting enough that each one is from a different vintages.  Having drunk a modest share of mature red Rioja I suggest you try the 2010 Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Anon, Rioja Reserva if you want a similar experience at an affordable cost. The nose smells great with blood and meat, offering a counterpoint to the somewhat short finish.  The 2011 Trosso del Priorat, Lo Petit de Casa, Priorat  is no amped up Grenache based wine.  Made from the youngest vines on the property, it is an elegant wine that will make you think of stones.  The 2012 Barahonda, Barrica, Yecla offers strong value for only $12.  Whereas the 2011 vintage had more complex, mature flavors, this latest vintage tastes younger and cleaner.  The 2013 Finca Villacreces, Pruno, Ribera del Duero  is a generous wine offering up strong aromas and a cloud of flavors in the mouth.  It is a little on the young side but if you don’t want to wait a year then double-decant it several hours ahead.  If you only try one wine from this list then the 2014 La Zorra, Teso Rufete, Sierra de Salamanca is the one.  Not only is it produced from old vines of the rare variety Rufete, it smells and tastes like nothing else.  These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2010 Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Anon, Rioja Reserva – $17
Imported by Classic Wines.  Alcohol 14%.  The nose is great with bloody and meaty aromas which smell like a musky, mature Rioja.  There are similar black fruit flavors in the mouth with slight grip, integrated tannins, chocolate powder, and some cherry notes.  The finish is a little short with ripe and polished wood tannins.  Neat!  *** Now – 2020.

2011 Trosso del Priorat, Lo Petit de Casa, Priorat – $16
Imported by the Spanish Wine Importers.  This wine is 100% Grenache.  Alcohol 14.5%.  This is a different sort of wine with framed suppleness around very fine tannins.  There is a great note of dark stones, not to be confused with minerals.  *** Now – 2018.

2012 Barahonda, Barrica, Yecla – $12
Imported by OLE Imports.  This wine is a blend of 75% Monastrell and 25% Syrah that was aged for 6 months in French oak.  Alcohol 14.5%.  There is a black, mineral start then focused flavors of slightly bitter black fruit, camphor, and a minerally aftertaste.  ** Now – 2017.

2013 Finca Villacreces, Pruno, Ribera del Duero – $19
Imported by Eric Solomon/European Cellars.  This wine is a blend of 90% Tinto Fino and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The strong nose delivered aromas of tar and some oak.  In the mouth is a cloud of flavor which exists around black stones, lipstick, and some very fine tannins.  The wine is certainly black fruited but has a citric aspect.  This dry wine reveals more power with air, taking a few hours to open up.  It eventually reveals dried herbs in the finish which is only when the tannins are noticeable.  *** Now – 2020.

2014 La Zorra, Teso Rufete, Sierra de Salamanca – $19
Imported by De Maison Selections.  This wine is 100% Rufete sourced from 60+ year old vines on granite and sand soils.  It was fermented in stainless steel tanks then aged for 4 months in French oak.  Alcohol 12.5%.  After a wee bit of stink blows off this aromatic wine smells distinct.  There are moderately ripe flavors of minerals and red fruit with an ethereal sweetness.  The wine becomes dry towards the finish where herb flavors come out. It leaves a satisfying tang in the end.  *** Now.

A diverse pair of Italian red wines

I finally took a closer look at the bottles of wine from La Stoppa that were sitting on the shelf.  It is only then that I noticed the new vintage of 2013 La Stoppa, Trebbiolo Rosso.  Incredibly, it was nearly two years since Lou and I drank the 2010 vintage.  This latest vintage is just as good with dark red fruit, red grapefruit, and a little funk.  It is a wine you can savor or quaff!  The 2009 Antichi Vigneti Di Cantalupo, Agamium, Colline Novaresi is in a similar vein to their 1981 Ghemme that I recently drank.  It is a gentle, dry wine that is perfectly balanced.  Just think of a slightly juicy mix of tar, leaves, and black fruit.  What I like about both of these wines is that they have distinct personalities and are priced under $20 each.  These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2013 La Stoppa, Trebbiolo Rosso – $19
Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.  This wine is a blend of 60% Barbera and 40% Bonarda.  Alcohol 13%.  The nose revealed vigorous aromas of dark red fruit with high-toned and earthy bits.  The wine was lively in the mouth with dark cherry and a hint of red grapefruit flavors.  It only takes one hour for this to drink well.  The good clean fruit takes on a bit of that 1960’s Californian animale flavor.  The juicy acidity makes you want to quaff the wine.  However, you can savor the bottle of two nights without any yeasty, Pilsner outbreak.  *** Now – 2017.

2009 Antichi Vigneti Di Cantalupo, Agamium, Colline Novaresi – $17
Imported by Tenth Harvest.  Alcohol 13%.  There is an attractive nose of tar and leafy aromas.  In the mouth the wine remains focused with citric, dry, black flavors and a mineral finish.  Everything about the wine is integrated, the flavors, the slightly juiciness, and the finish which leaves gentle, fine, ripe tannins.  *** Now – 2019.

Notes from the dump bin: 1999 Corino, L’Insieme

L’Insieme or “together” is a charity project spearheaded by Elio Altare.  Eight winemakers from Piedmont formed a group where each made a wine called L’Insieme based on their own particular blend.  In my case I tasted the blend from Giovanni Corino.  After double-decanting the wine, I found it was firm so we let it sit for a few more hours.  The wine morphed from tasting just past prime maturity to a mouthfilling wine with interesting perfumed and floral notes.  Even Jenn found it rather good.  If I were to try another bottle I would double-decant it four hours ahead of time.  This wine was purchased from the dump bin at MacArthur Beverages.

1999 Giovanni Corino, L’Insieme, Vino da Tavola – $30
A Marc de Grazia selection imported by Bacchus LTD.  This wine is a blend of 50% Nebbiolo and 50% Barbera with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  Alcohol 14%.  The nose remained firm with Bordeaux like aromas.  In the mouth this maturing wine began with firm, black fruit flavors, polished wood, dry tannins, and an assertive finish.  With air it developed blue, weighty fruit matched by integrated acidity.  Though the structure remained, it took on cinnamon notes and a little coarseness near the end.  This bit of ruggedness did not deny the wine from developing mouth filling flavors that became both perfumed and floral.  ***(*) Now – 2020.

“Customary Before Prohibition”: Moving back in time with food and drink through the Picayune Creole Cook Book

As I have previously described in my wine cookery posts the post-Prohibition years in America saw the rise of recipes where wine is an ingredient.  These recipes appeared in both newspaper articles and cook books.  There were indeed several books dedicated solely to wine cookery but other well-established cook books were updated to include sections or simply recipes involving wine.  One such cookbook is the Picayune Creole Cook Book.

The Times-Picayune is a newspaper which originated during 1837 in New Orleans, Louisiana.  In 1900, the paper published their first edition of the Creole cookbook.  A number of editions were published over the last century introducing new formatting and additional recipes.  The sixth and seventh editions, published during Prohibition, do not contain any recipes that require wine or liquor for both food dishes and drinks.

Back in December, I was showing my wine cookery books to my friend Sudip as part of our general discussion about the history of cookery books.  Sudip loves to cook and in his exploration of Creole and Cajun cooking he purchased a facsimile of the 1901 second edition of the Picayune’s Creole Cook Book.  We quickly decided it would be fun to cook a few recipes involving wine so I purchased the ninth edition published in 1942.  Titled The Original Picayune Creole Cook Book the title page notes that it was Reprinted from the Fifth Edition, Containing Recipes Using Wines and Liquors Customary Before Prohibition.  As this edition is, in effect, a restoration of original recipes with wine, there is no wine cookery chapter nor wine specific indexing.  Instead the wine inclusive food recipes are integrated throughout.  The wine and liquor based drinks appear in the chapter “Domestic Wines, Cordials, Drinks”.  Here you may find Moselle Cup, Elixir of Violets, and Louisiana Orange Wine.

Sudip and I coordinated our menu which we prepared at my house.  We could not just jump straight into cooking so we started with a bowl of Ponche au Vin de Champagne a la Creole or Champagne Punch a la Creole.  I made sure to include good wine in the form of The Rare Wine Co, Les Mesnil, Champagne and Pierre Ferrand’s Dry Curacao.  The punch was pretty good.  With added sparkle from seltzer water the sweetness from the shaved pineapple and strawberry slices were balanced out by the lemon juice.  It was a rich punch so after two small glasses it was time for Sudip and I to move into the kitchen.

Ponche au Vin de Champagne a la Creole

The punch recipe and indeed everything else we picked pre-date Prohibition.  Thus we were not looking at a new post-Prohibition flavor profile, instead we went straight back more than 100 years.  My ninth edition notes that some recipes may be made without wine, as even some Creole cooks object to wine, but for other recipes it is essential.  This includes our venison and chicken dishes for “the success of the dish depends greatly upon the flavoring given by  a small addition of wine.”  That is about the extent of the discussion on wine in food.

Our menu consisted of Gumbo aux Huitres (Oyster Gumbo), Supreme de Volaille a la Reine (Breast of Chicken, Queen Style), and Salmi de Chevreuil a la Creole (Stewed Venison a la Creole).  These dishes were accompanied by macaroni with cheese and roasted carrots.  The chicken and venison dishes both include wine.  I picked the chicken recipe because the breasts are stuffed with quenelles (forcemeat) and mushrooms then simmered in Madeira.  Likewise the Venison is stewed in Claret.

We continued the use of good beverages that day by using Blandy’s 15 year old Malmsey for the chicken and 2008 Domaine de la Solitude, Pessac-Leognan for the venison.  The later was a tasty wine, already taking on a firm, mature profile.  If I faulted the wine it would be for a lack of weight.  Regardless, we all practically finished the bottle while cooking.  In keeping with the menu suggestions in the cookbook we should have started with a Sauternes but with punch and four bottles of wine already selected for the evening, adding one more bottle would have done the four of us in!

Gumbo aux Huitres

The Oyster Gumbo, made without wine, calls for a tremendous volume of oyster liquor. Quarts of it in fact.  We wonder if the fresh oysters were kept at home in water due to a lack of ice or refrigeration.  In that case the home cook would have access to as much oyster liquor as needed.  We drank this with our white wine being the  2008 Varner, Chardonnay, Home Block, Spring Ridge Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains.  Lou introduced me to Varner many years ago with the 2008 vintage.  Based on his recent experience I opened this bottle which was drinking perfectly.  Though you get the butterscotch and pineapple flavors the wine remains flavorful rather than overbearing in any sense.

Supreme de Volaille a la Reine

The Chicken Queen Style requires chicken breasts to be stuffed with a chicken forcemeat and mushroom mixture.  On top of the breast is place the fillet.  The whole piece is then basted with melted button, sauteed on the bottom then cooked for 15 minutes in Madeira with a lid on the skillet.  Our chicken breasts were rather large so did not complete in time.  Perhaps chicken breasts were smaller back then.  I have noticed a number of wine cookery books utilize Madeira for flavoring.  I find this fascinating as Madeira was no longer the wine of choice in America during the 1900s.  Perhaps it is a holdover from the last great Madeira decades of the mid to late 19th century when it was still widely drunk.

Salmi de Chevreuil a la Creole

The Stewed Venison Creole style reminded me exactly of boeuf bourguignon.  It is essentially the same recipe but with venison.  Which is not surprising given this is a Creole recipe.  Sudip found that after the recommended 45 minutes it was still very liquidy so he doubled the cooking time to reduce it.  I should add that Sudip used fresh mushrooms instead of the canned mushrooms despite the claim that “This dish will be improved beyond estimation if a can of mushrooms is added”.

With the chicken and venison we drank two mature red wines.  The NV (1960s) Sebastiani, Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast Counties turned out to be a cleaner version of the magnum of NV Sebastiani, Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 271, North Coast Counties which I opened in November.  It had an old school, sweet red wood profile with only some funk.  A solid enough wine which remained drinkable for a few days.  The 1974 Veedercrest Vineyard, Petite Sirah, Batch 2, Cask YUG 77, Sonoma County proved to be the best bottle I have yet opened of this wine.  It sported fresh and clean red fruit with supporting leather.  Whereas the Sebastiani leaned towards the funky spectrum, the Veedercrest was an elegant example of Petite Sirah that many would enjoy.

It was all great fun and you can be assured that another dinner will be in the works.

2008 Varner, Chardonnay, Home Block, Spring Ridge Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains
Alcohol 14.3%.  The rich nose yielded aromas of butterscotch and yellow fruits.  In the mouth the wine was still fresh and drinking very well. There were butterscotch flavors that mixed with pineapple and some toast.  All of this was delivered with weight.  Best on the first night.  **** Now – 2017.

2008 Domaine de la Solitude, Pessac-Leognan – $25
Imported by MacArthur Liquors.  This wine is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The nose reveals hints of maturity.  In the mouth the red and black fruit mixed with leather and watering acidity.  The wine is firm with apparent structure.  It is actually rather tasty but could stand to have more fruit weight.  It eventually took on some licorice and mature notes in the mouth.  *** Now but will last.

NV (1960s) Sebastiani, Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast Counties
Alcohol 12.5%.  There were sweet, old smells on the nose.  In the mouth were old school flavors, sweet red wood, and roasted earth by the finish.  The flavors were clean but certainly different.  With air the firm cherry fruit took on some foxy notes.  ** Now but will last for quite some time.

1974 Veedercrest Vineyard, Petite Sirah, Batch 2, Cask YUG 77, Sonoma County
Alcohol 12.5%.  The tart red fruit was very clean with hints of leather and some old school notes.  There were minimal, fine tannins, a citric finish, and decent aftertaste.  Still fresh  *** Now.

Plan Pegau is back

In the latest release of Plan Pegau, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are still present in the blend but the wine itself shows more of the deep flavors I expect from Pegau.  This appears to be because it utilizes more fruit from sources located closer to Chateauneuf du Pape.  Another apparent change is that the two previous releases Lot #10 and Lot #11 suggest a single vintage blend whereas this release Lot #11-12-13 suggests a three vintage blend.  Regardless, this is certainly a step up from the Lot #10 release I tried before.  I would even suggest you let this release age for half a year before you try it again.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

NV (Lot #11-12-13) Plan Pegau – $22
Imported by Hand Picked Selections.  This wine is a blend of 30% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Merlot, and 20% Carignan, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Danlas, Alicante, and Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from vines averaging 40 years of age.  The wine was fermented in concrete vats then aged in a mix of concrete tanks and very old French oak casks.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The flavors show rounded edges with hints of red fruit but overall dry, black fruit comes out by the middle.  There is some depth, some minerals, and a dry structure with air.  Need a little cellar time.  *** Now – 2020.

A South African Trio

Our recent exploration of three South African red Bordeaux blend wines began with the 2013 Ridgeback, Journey, Paarl.  This is an effusive wine to drink over the short term.  It should continue to offer up supple flavors of black fruit, and leather for the next few years.  The 2010 Morgenster, Lourens River Valley, Stellenbosch steps things up.  The nose reveals the large inclusion of Cabernet Franc while notes of tobacco and leather reveal the oak aging.  The oak comes across more in flavor than in drying tannins.  I suggest you let this lively blue and black fruited wine rest for a few months then start drinking it over the next few years.  The 2011 Rustenberg, John X Merriman, Stellenbosch is a young, well-made wine that has interesting fruit, fresh acidity, and the structure to develop for several  years.  It will clearly benefit from short-term aging so I suggest you drink the two other wines while this one slumbers in your cellar or fridge.   These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2013 Ridgeback, Journey, Paarl – $13
Imported by Cape Starz Wine.  This wine is a blend of 35% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Petit Verdot, and 16% Cabernet Franc.  Alcohol 14%.  The flavorful, almost effusive wine, has a core of black fruit and picks up some tartness towards the finish. The wine puckers the sides of the tongue before taking some leather.  With air it reveals supple flavors and a note of leather. There is a little bit of spirit in the end.  ** Now – 2018.

2010 Morgenster, Lourens River Valley, Stellenbosch – $26
Imported by Cape Classics.  This wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Petit Verdot that was fermented in stainless steel then aged 16 months in French oak.  Alcohol 14.5%.  The fresh aromas reminded me of Cabernet Franc, eventually developing hints of tobacco and red plums.  In the mouth were lively flavors of blue and black fruit which were almost supple.  There was a tart red hint.  The wine sported a fine texture and not too much in the way of tannins.  Overall the wine was nicely integrated with smoke and tobacco notes from the oak.  *** Now – 2020.

2011 Rustenberg, John X Merriman, Stellenbosch – $27
This wine is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% albec.  Alcohol 14%. Imported by the Indigo Wine Group.  The nose was tight with a slight hint of greenhouse in the end.  In the mouth were focused and finely textured flavors of blue fruit that mixed with ripe tannins and dry spices.  Clearly tasting young this has the fruit, fresh acidity, and structure to develop.  With air the wine remains fresh with more concentration, density, and drying structure.  *** 2017-2022.

New vintages of two old favorites: Syncline and Owen Roe

From the moment I landed in Seattle, I knew my trip would be cut short due to the impending Snowzilla back home.  That left only one choice for which wines I would try…old favorites.  The 2014 Syncline, Subduction Red, Columbia Valley is a lovely, forward drinking blend full of youthful blue fruit flavors.  The 2012 Owen Roe, Ex Umbris Syrah, Columbia Valley steps things up with fat accenting the deep blue and black fruit flavors.  Fat works well with Syrah and all this wine needs is just a little more time to open up. These wines were purchased at Pete’s of East Lake.

2014 Syncline, Subduction Red, Columbia Valley
This wine is a blend of 46% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre, 14% Grenache, 8% Carignan, 3% Cinsault, and 2% Counoise.  Alcohol 14.4%.  There were plenty of young, berry fruit flavors which settled in on rounded blueberries.  The wine showed slight grip, good acidity, and youthful age.  The blue fruit lasts throughout, taking on some baking spiced wood notes and a little heat in the end.  Fun stuff.  **(*) 2016-2020.

2012 Owen Roe, Ex Umbris Syrah, Columbia Valley
This wine is 100% Syrah.  Alcohol 14.1%.  The hints of fat worked with the deep black and blue fruit.  The wine showed weight and density before black minerals, and some spirit came out in the finish.  There is no need to mature this wine for different flavors, rather it needs just a bit of time so that it can open up.  In that time the oak influences should absorb. Attractive with its slightly rough manner. *** 2017-2019.

“News of Food: About Wines” An overview of the wine columns of Jane Nickerson 1946 – 1957

In this post I continue my look at the history of wine journalism in American newspapers by returning to Jane Nickerson of The New York Times.  The history of wine journalism parallels the history of wine cookery books.

Jane Nickerson was the first food editor at The New York Times from 1942 through 1957.  She wrote consistently about wine beginning in the spring of 1946.  This post-Prohibition, post-Depression, and post-War period saw the redevelopment of the American wine industry, resumption of European wine importation, the rise of wine cookery, and development of wine journalism.  Jane Nickerson wrote, not as a single expert in all things wine, rather as an editor shaping a constant stream of information and wine sourced from the authorities in what must have been the wine capital of the country.  In reviewing over 100 wine related articles written by Jane Nickerson for The New York Times it is clear that I cannot relate this body of work in one post.

New York City views. Gottscho-Schleisner. 1950. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division.

As such the vintages are diverse including 1876 Tokay ($8.75 per pint), 1888 Chateau Montrose (“amazingly alive, beautifully balanced, quite dazzling” according to Sam Aaron), the “top” 1947, and “above average” 1953.  As you would expect, she wrote often about Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux.  There are also diverse wines such as the Austrian wine from Vienna, Italian Bardolino, and 1953 Boordy Vineyard, Rosé from Maryland.

This was a time of much needed wine education.  Clearly aimed at apartment living “cliff dwellers” of New York City, where to store one’s wine was of repeated concern.   With a lack of storage and warm summer temperatures, it was felt almost any corner would suffice including under the kitchen sink[1]   but one should avoid locations near steam pipes.[2]  Described as a “cellarette” it was felt that if you stored the wines on their sides they would be suitable to drink for up to six months. Of course wine glasses, corkscrews, and serving temperature was also discussed.  The latter is not as mundane as you might think.  As discussed before, new vinification techniques produced earlier drinking wines.  Known as “wine of the year” these fresh, young wines were only bottled the previous fall.[3]  The red wines were found to taste best at cooler then cellar temperature.  With the increased availability of ice and spread of refrigeration in France, many switched to drinking wines such as Beaujolais at a cooler temperature in the 1950s.

Two issues centered on the price of wine might sound familiar to contemporary discussions.  In 1948 the relative expense of Californian wines compared to French wines was answered in the article “Why U.S. Wines Cost More Than French”?[4]  Two leading long-terms reasons were that French labor costs were 40% of Californian and that shipping from France to New York was 50% that of California to New York.  The post-War American market was also believed to be a dumping ground for stock held in American and European warehouses.  In the short-term, the devalued French Franc meant strong purchasing power for the American Dollar. The result was that “most California wines, including some very good ones, have simply priced themselves out of today’s market.”

Moving from the price of Californian wine is a small series of articles in 1951 concerned with the price of wine in general at restaurants.  Jane Nickerson threw down the gauntlet by quoting Tom Marvel, “American restaurants kill wine drinking”.[5]  In several pieces the wine price markup is described as 3 to 6 times the cost to the restaurant.  Tom Marvel felt that restaurants set the model for wine and food consumption at home.  American continued to favor sweet wines over table wines partially because table wine prices were so high at restaurants.  American could not participate in the European model of drinking table wine with a meal.  In a hold-over from Prohibition, restaurants viewed wine as an intoxicant thus profit driver not as a food like the French.  Not all restaurant prices were exorbitant.  The Bismarck Hotel in Chicago felt they were conservative, simply doubling the price which they felt covered storage, refrigeration, glasses, and everything else related to wine.[6]  A new wine list at the Café Continental in the Barbizon-Plaza Hotel spurred the article “’Impossible’ Found in Midtown Restaurant: Vintage Wines Priced Close to retail Scale”.[7]  Here one could drink 1947 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc for $3 and 1937 Chateau Cos d’Estournel for $3.25 per bottle.

New Sources

Based in New York City, Jane Nickerson relied on combination of American publications, news from wine importers recently returned from Europe, and visiting winemakers both American and European.  Her exposure to wine came in the form of large-scale wine tastings and more commonly, small tastings with importers and city merchants.

Initial sources of post-war wine information sometimes came in the form of pamphlets.  The Wine Institute, founded in 1934, created the Wine Advisory Board in 1937 with the purpose of marketing Californian wines.  The Wine Advisory Board published such leaflets as “Little Wine Cellar All Your Own” in 1946[8] and “Fish Dishes With Wine” in 1948.[9]  The Italian Swiss Colony employed Gertrude S. Wilkinson, former food editor of The New York Journal-America, to write “Food Is More Fun With Wine.”[10]  National Distillers Products Corporation asked Mrs. Jeanne Owen, secretary of the Wine and Food Society of New York, to promote Chateau Lejon wine in “The Lejon Cook Book.”[11]  Frank Schoonmaker’s company published “News From The Wine Country” which Jane Nickerson described as “one-third promotional, two-thirds informational”.[12]  One informational bit is that red wine should be served at 60 Fahrenheit.  Not only was Information from these pamphlets relayed but wine cookery recipes were also included.

Jane Nickerson attended several tastings held by the Wine and Food Society of New York beginning in 1946.[13]  The first few tastings appear to be domestically focused, including the wines of the National Distillers Products Corporation such as Sweet Valley from Ohio and Chateau Lejon.[14] The Society’s October 1946, tasting was the first of imported wine since the end of the War.[15]

There were also tastings held by importers as well.  Bellows & Co., an import-only subsidiary of the National Distillers Products Corporation, was generous in pouring 1942 Villaine et Chambon, Romanee La Tache, Richebourg, and Grands Echezeaux.[16]  At their 1950 spring tasting, some “700 wine devotees” were invited to the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.[17] That the guests “included amateurs and a few members of the trade” show how modest wine journalism was at the time.  Kobrand Corporation was holding tastings in 1950[18] with the Wine and Food Society focusing in on Californian wine that same year.[19]  Macy’s held a German wine tasting in 1953, a region that was “comparatively unfamiliar”.[20]  Due to two World Wars and Prohibition, the availability of German wines had only returned to the levels of nearly 40 years prior in 1914.  The 1954 Ambassador Liquors tasting was the “largest ever held in this country – 4,000 persons were invited”.[21]  Aimed at the general public, rather than the press, the wines offered were meant for daily drinking.  As if to confirm the point Jane Nickerson titled a section of her article “Small Tasting More Enjoyable”.  These large wine tastings never became a significant source of information for Jane Nickerson.  She noted that so many tastings were “huge cocktail parties where wine replaces cocktails, and where the guests come more to be social”.[22]

By the beginning of 1947 Jane Nickerson was regularly conversing with Sam Aaron of Sherry Wine and Spirits.  Sam Aaron was excited by wine and learned all he could from the importer Frank Schoonmaker.  It is perhaps Sam Aaron who introduced Jane Nickerson to Frank Schoonmaker for she was soon recommending the wines he imported.  By 1948 she was regularly conversing with Frank Schoonmaker and his associate Tom Marvel of the wine importing company FS Importing.  Frank Schoonmaker distributed wines too such as those of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and the Kesselstatt wines of the Mosel.[23]  The Kesselstatt wines were imported by Bellows & Co.[24]

James Beard worked at Sherry Wine and Spirits with Sam Aaron.  Around November 1950, Jane Nickerson began discussing wine with James Beard who often related of his most recent trip to Europe.    The wines and knowledge of Michel Dreyfus, importer, first appear in 1950.[25]  Alexis Lichine first appears in 1951, as importer and author, just after his “Wines of France” books was published.[26]  This book remained a work of authority which Jane Nickerson often cited.  Alexis Lichine had previously worked with Frank Schoonmaker.  R.C. Kopf, president of Kobrand Coporation was interviewed once.[27]  She met with Alfred Fromm and Franz W. Sichel who distributed Christian Brothers and Paul Masson wine. Robert Haas, proprietor of Lehmann’s wine shop on Park Avenue, was also consulted.  Lehmann’s wine shop eventually merged with Sherry to form Sherry-Lehmann’s.  Robert Hass left New York to form Tablas Creek Winery in California.

Jane Nickerson interviewed people for articles as well.   These interviews typically involved wine lovers in the Wine and Food Society and Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, as well as domestic and foreign proprietors brought to the city through the distributors and importers such at Bellows & Co, FS Importing, Dreyfus, and Sichel.  She even interviewed publisher Alfred A. Knopf who was a director of the Wine and Food Society of New York.[28]

She interviewed Henri Bonnet, French Ambassador and “grand office of the Wine Cup” as the Noble Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin was once translated.  Jane Nickersons’ interviews typically feature a description of the interviewee as well as discussions about food.  Raymond Baudouin, general secretary of the French Wine Academy, was interviewed in the tasting room of Frank Schoonmaker.  Baudouin, a “loosely built man”, found it “impossible even to estimate the number of wines he had tasted”.  He did express a preference for young wines which were “fresh, more perfumed”.[29]  John St. Clair Harvey, chairman of John Harvey & Sons of Bristol, described as a “huge bespectacled man”, was interviewed while drinking a “bracer” of Champagne and orange juice.[30]  Harvey & Sons were known for their sherries and ports.  After his tour of the country he felt there were only a dozen retailers that “really cared for wine”.  Storage was primitive and while wine prices were too high in restaurants, New Orleans lived up to its “gastronomical reputation”.

Diversity of Wines

Jane Nickerson’s early wine writing was simple in nature.  To accompany the almost daily selections of “fish ‘n’ poultry” she recommended enlivening the meal with white wine.[31]  The suggested white wine was Sweet Valley which she described as, “dry and clean and uncorrupted by anything suggesting an even faintly saccharine flavor.”

A great selection of French wines began to appear towards the end of 1946.  During October 1946 the Wine and Food Society held its first imported wine tasting since the war.[32]  The stars of this tasting were the 1937 and 1938 Domaine Grivelet, Chambolle-Musigny and the 1937 Domaine Grivelet, Musigny-Comte George de Vogue.  French wines continued to dominate in the columns typically Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne.  There were other French wines such as the 1947 Clos le Mont, Vouvray with a “flowery boquet” and Hermitage from the Rhone.

American wines appear frequently, usually due to the annual California State Fair.  Early examples include such wines as Wente’s Sauvignon Blanc “pronounced aroma and flavor, true to the variety in all respects”, “heterogeneous, rather nondescript” California burgundy, and “luscious” Cresta Blanca Triple Cream sherry.

Mention of sparkling wine was not solely limited to French Champagne.  There was sparkling Saumur, Asti Spumante, American bubbles from Charles Fournier in New York, Seppelt from Australia, and even President Canadian from Canada.  Over time Alsatian Gewurztraminer, quality Chianti Classico not in a straw covered bottle, Spanish sherry, Californian Zinfandel, sweet wine from Hungary, and high-altitude wine from the Italian Alps made their appearances.

Wine Descriptions

There is a wealth of wine descriptions throughout Jane Nickeron’s articles.  The vast majority of these descriptions are quoted being from Frank Schoonmaker, Sam Aaron, and others.  I suspect this is respect for these sources being considered experts in the subject matter of wine rather than deference because they were male.  Jane Nickerson was very careful to attribute sources for all of her information and frequently quotes all sorts of information, not just tasting notes.  She does provide a handful of wine descriptions of her own from which I have gathered a selection.

Bellows’ Inglenook Napa Valley Navalle Rose: “the color of a deep pink carnation”.[33]

Blondel-Marshal, Blanc-de-Blanc, Champagne: “a particularly light, dry taste, with almost no body or bouquet”.[34]

1948 Chateau du Nozet, Pouilly Fume: “Over and above its pale-gold transparency and its delicate mellow taste is perhaps its bouquet – pronounced, pleasant”.[35]

1947 Wormser Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstuck Riesling: “strange, but delightful quality as ‘earthy.’ It is dry, delicate, with a pleasant, though far from decided, bouquet.”

1947 Valmur, Chablis: “was greenish-gold, flinty, clean dry, light”

1947 Louis Jadot, Corton Charlemagne: “was dry and well rounded; it filled nostrils and mouth with fragra[n]ce and flavor.” [36]

Paul Masson, Triple Red sparkling red champagne: “It was a bit sweet and fruity” with “pearls – more vulgarly, the bubbles – were very small and lasted a long time; in other words, the champagne had life.”[37]

German Riesling in general: “They hit one’s nose, first of all, for dry or sweet, the best share a distinguishing quality – a  lovely bouquet, almost the fragrance of flowers, that charms before one even sips.”[38]

Randersackerer Hohbug Silvaner Beeren-Auslese, 1950: “was sweet and exceedingly smooth for all its characteristic earthiness.”[39]

Yugoslav wines: “Yugoslav wines is Chipon, dry, full of character, almost harsh, a wine that could be poured as an aperitif”.[40]

Beaujolais in general: “purplish-red, with the fruity aroma and taste of crushed grapes”.[41]

Columns

The wine articles appear as two types of columns, typically a news column under the headline of “News of Food” and occasionally a longer feature column.  The “News of Food” columns that contain pieces about wine often include other news on restaurants, food, and even recipes.  Some “News of Food” columns were dedicated to a single wine feature such as the American tour of Princess Gabrielle de Lichtenstein (Kesselstatt) and Baron Philippe de Rothschild (Chateau Mouton-Rothschild) in 1950.[42]  The longer feature pieces bore such titles as “With Champagne and Burgundy”, “Native and Foreign Wines”, “Piquant Rhines and Moselles”, and in time for Christmas 1952 “A Wine List For Festive Occasions”.  These pieces featured a script title, a graphic drawing, and photographic images.

During 1951 and 1952 a third type of column appeared that was a variation of the news column.  There were four columns dedicated solely to wine titled “News of Food: Wines” (one by June Owen) and one column “News of Food: About Wines”.   This third type of column appeared in addition to pieces on wine in “News of Food” and the long form.  In 1955, single subject “Food News:” appeared with such titles for three column pieces as “Food News: Discourse on Wines” and for two columns “Food: Loire Wines”.

Selected Article Titles

“With Champagne and Burgundy”, May 30, 1948.
“Wines of California”, October 3, 1948.
“News for Wine-Lovers”, February 20, 1949.
“Native and Foreign Wines”, November 14, 1949.
“Notes on California Wine Awards”, September 25, 1949.
“Summer’s Sparkling Wines”, May 21, 1950.
“Wines of the Season”, September 24, 1950.
“From the Vineyards of France”, December 16, 1951.
“Piquant Rhines and Moselles”, August 31, 1952.
“A Wine List For Festive Occasions”, December 7, 1952.
“Exploring the Fine Clarets”, February 8, 1953.
“The Pink Wines For Warm Weather”, April 19, 1953.
“Primer on Italian Wines”, July 5, 1953.
“Weather for White Bordeaux”, June 20, 1954.
“Q. and A. on Wines”, April 17, 1955.
“Wines to Make Friends With”, October 9, 1955.
“Wine List For Fish”, March 24, 1957.
“Wine Cellar on a Budget”, October 6, 1957.

The Chicago Tribune and The New York Times describe Ruth Ellen Church, a food and wine journalist who published in the Chicago Tribune, at “the first American to write a regular wine column”.  Jane Nickerson did not have a regular wine column in The New  York Times. She did, however, write consistently about wine from 1946 through 1957 largely under the frequent column “News of Food” and at least annually in longer, illustrated pieces.  That there was no regular wine-titled column, that most wine writing appeared under a food column, could be due to her earliest observation that wine was “served so often as a part of a meal”.  There were signs that this view was changing in the 1950s when several “News of Food” columns focused solely on wine and column titles changed to include the term wine.  It was just several years later in 1962 that Ruth Ellen Church began her regular wine column in the Chicago Tribune.

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[1] News for Wine-Lovers By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Feb 20, 1949; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. SM36
[2] Food: Storage of Wine By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Nov 3, 1956; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 21
[3] News of Food: Young Wine-of-the-Year Coming to Table As Long, Large Meal of Yesteryear Exits. By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Sep 8, 1953; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 28
[4] News of Food: Five Experts Give Their Explanations Why U.S. Wines Cost More Than French By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Dec 11, 1948; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010). pg. 18
[5] News of Food: Restaurants Kill Wine Drinking in America, Says a … By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Jul 9, 1951; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 35
[6] News of Food: First Air Shipment of Scotch Salmon –Alsatian Wines … By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Aug 4, 1951; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 8
[7] News of Food: ‘Impossible’ Found in Midtown Restaurant: Vintage Wines … By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Dec 17, 1951; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 26
[8] News of Food: American Vintners Plan for Resumption Of Pre-War Rise … By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Mar 23, 1946; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 9
[9] News of Food: 11 Recipes on ‘Fish Dishes With Wine’ Are Offered to Readers of This Column By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Mar 6, 1948; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 10
[10] News of Food: Wines Can Transform Tin-Can Dinner Into Fare High-Capped Chefs Produce By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Aug 24, 1948; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 26
[11] 25-Cent Book Written by Food Fancier Gives 77 Ways of Cooking With Wine By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Jun 25, 1947; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 29
[12] News of Food: Distinguished Vintner From California Off to Tour the Wine Country in Europe By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Jul 18, 1949; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 20
[13] News of Food: Delectable Desserts, Packaged to Last, Will Make This … By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); May 7, 1946; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 18
[14] News of Food: Recipe for Muffins Made With Potatoes Is Given by … By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); May 23, 1946; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 28
[15] News of Food: Puddings More Famous Than Her Books, Maura Laverty, …By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Oct 28, 1946; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 18
[16] Native and Foreign Wines By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Nov 14, 1948; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. SM46
[17] News of Food: Chilled White Wines Presage Warm Days; Blueberries and …By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); May 3, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 34
[18] News of Food: Europe’s White Wines of 1947 Vintage Are Praised Here …By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Aug 26, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 10
[19] Wines of the Season BY JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Sep 24, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. SM26
[20] News of Food: Wine-Tasting Staged, Introducing German White Varieties. By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Nov 5, 1953; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 39
[21] News of Food: Wine Tasting Here One of Largest Ever Held — 60 Imports Offered By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); May 27, 1954; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 31
[22] News of Food: Dishes From Fine Restaurants and Shops Steal Show at Tasting of French Wines. By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Apr 11, 1953; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010). pg. 20
[23] News of Food: WINE EXPERTS AT START OF TOUR By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Apr 19, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 33
[24] News of Food: Chilled White Wines Presage Warm Days; Blueberries and … By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); May 3, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 34
[25] News of Food: Favorite French Wine Is New Arrival Here; Benedictine … By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Aug 14, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 17
[26] News of Food: Red Burgundies of 1947 Vintage Here From the Domaine de … By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Nov 26, 1951; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 26
[27] News of Food: Price of French Champagne Due to Rise, But Not Before … By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Nov 5, 1951; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 28
[28] News of Food: Bookman, Off for Happy Holiday in France, Says U.S., …By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Aug 1, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 20
[29] News of Food: French Wine Expert Favors Young Vintages, Calls 1947 Top Year of Century for Tasting. By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); May 29, 1953;ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 14
[30] News of Food: British Wine Seller Says U. S. Retailers Seldom Go Beyond Price to the Quality. By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Jun 15, 1953; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 21
[31] News of Food: Delectable Desserts, Packaged to Last, Will Make This …By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); May 7, 1946; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 18
[32] News of Food: Puddings More Famous Than Her Books, Maura Laverty, …By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Oct 28, 1946; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 18
[33] News of Food: Recipe for Muffins Made With Potatoes Is Given by …By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); May 23, 1946; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 28
[34] News of Food: Blanche Thebom of Metropolitan–Opera, Her Own Cook, … By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Dec 2, 1946; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 34
[35] News of Food: Favorite French Wine Is New Arrival Here; Benedictine …By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Aug 14, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 17
[36] News of Food: Europe’s White Wines of 1947 Vintage Are Praised Here … By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Aug 26, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 10
[37] News of Food: Red Champagne Produced in California, Called First of … By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Jun 7, 1951; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 42
[38] Piquant Rhines and Moselles By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Aug 31, 1952; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. SM22
[39] News of Food: Wine-Tasting Staged, Introducing German White Varieties By JANE NICKERSON. New York Times (1923-Current file); Nov 5, 1953; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 39
[40] Wines to Make Friends With By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Oct 9, 1955; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. SM50
[41] Food: Cookbook Reissued: ‘Stock Reference’ Has Basic Dishes –Authors Discuss Wines of Interest. By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Jan 29, 1957; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 25
[42] News of Food: WINE EXPERTS AT START OF TOUR By JANE NICKERSON New York Times (1923-Current file); Apr 19, 1950; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The New York Times (1851-2010) pg. 33

A wide variety of French wines.

This post features a number of French wines which we have recently drunk.  My favorite pair are the 2013 Ola Raffault, Les Barnabes, Chinon and the 2011 Domaine Cheveau, Or Rouge, Beaujolais Villages.  The Raffault is a finely scented, fresh, satisfying herbaceous wine from Chinon.  I kept finding myself returning to my glass.  The Cheveau has benefited from a few years of age but still retains lovely cool, dense flavors.   The 2013 Alleno & Chapoutier, Cotes du Rhone is also good with its minerally, black flavors but it will greatly benefit from short-term aging. Of the wines for drinking now the 2014 Chateau Coupe Roses, La Bastide, Minervois offers a tart, red grapefruit profile whereas the 2011 Abbaye Sylva Plana, Les Novices, Faugeres offers forward drinking flavors of raspberry candy.  These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.

2014 Chateau Coupe Roses, La Bastide, Minervois – $13
Imported by Vintage 59.  This wine is a blend of old-vine Carignan and Grenache.  Alcohol 13%.  The nose was of raspberry candy.  In the mouth the tart red and black fruit had a slight hint of red grapefruit.  In general there was a beam of tart and ripe fruit, minimal structure which was integrated, and spices in the end.  The tart aspects matched with the developing bitters flavor.  ** Now – 2017.

2014 Damien Coquelet, Cote du Py, Morgon – $22
Imported by Louis/Dressner.  This wine is 100% Gamay.  Alcohol.  Tasted over a few days the lovely nose eventually took on graphite notes.  This light, bright wine was pure in nature with a lively start, building dry weight, and an ethereal aftertaste.  It had slightly watering acidity and a dry, structured middle.  The dry flavors existed over a layer of stone and mineral.  I suspect this might open up in a year.  It is best to cellar it instead of giving it extended decant time because it developed a Pilsner beer note.  **(*) 2017-2019.

2013 Alleno & Chapoutier, Cotes du Rhone – $15
Imported by Classic Wines.  This wine is mostly Syrah that was fermented and aged on concrete tanks.  Alcohol 14.5%.  The minerally, black fruit flavors left some texture on the gums and juicy acidity on the tongue.  With controlled flavors the gentle ripe spices took on some wood notes and persisted through the aftertaste.  This needs short-term aging.  *** 2017-2020.

2013 Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup, Tour de Pierres, Pic St Loup – $17
Imported by Kermit Lynch.  This wine is a blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre.   Alcohol 13.5%.  The nose is attractive with delicate floral and graphite aromas. In the mouth the wine has very high-toned, citric red fruit.  With extended air it seemed to deepen up a bit and not fall into Pilsner yeast land.  ** Now – 2017.

2013 Ola Raffault, Les Barnabes, Chinon – $17
Imported by Louis/Dressner.  This wine is 100% Cabernet Franc.  Alcohol 12.5%.  This fresh, scented wine is attractively herbaceous.  The flavors continue with herbaceous red and black fruit flavors which are dry.  This flavorful wine is mouthfilling yet medium-bodied with an almost gentle finish.  With air sweet dried herbs come out along with very, very fine tannins.  The acidity is indistinguishably integrated.  *** Now – 2018.

2011 Abbaye Sylva Plana, Les Novices, Faugeres – $18
A Franck’s Signature Wines imported by Promex Wines.  This wine is a blend of 55% Cinsault, 30% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre.  Alcohol 14%.  The forward flavors of raspberry candy are rounded with mouthfilling weight.  With air it takes on some darker notes.  Very much a wine to drink right now. ** Now – 2017.

2011 Domaine Cheveau, Or Rouge, Beaujolais Villages – $18
Imported by Rosenthal.  This wine is 100% Gamay sourced from vines averaging 50 years of age.   Alcohol 13%.  The nose remained subtle but in the mouth were cool, dense fruit with watery acidity, a fresh middle, and tannins noticeable in the aftertaste.  With air the firm red fruits took on additional flavors of ripe black fruit.  The wine remained a little puckering on the sides of the tongue.  *** Now – 2020.