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I am still at the beach
with a bottle of 2016 Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne, Saint-Joseph.
Must-try Cahors: 2014 Causse du Theron, Terrasse
I grabbed the bottle of 2014 Causse du Theron, Terrasse, Cahors with the wines of Château Combel-la-Serre in mind. In other words, I was looking for an unusual, more elegant Cahors. Last night I opened my bottle to significant surprise. This wine is the collaborative result of the team from Altos Las Hormigas in Argentina and Métairie Grande du Théron in Cahors. There were comparisons to Burgundy when the Hormigas team tasted the 2014 tank samples and I can see why. This particular bottle has the firm fruit of Cahors but surrounding it are lifted earth notes and ethereal ripeness. How cool! This is the first vintage from this collaborative effort and with a price of only $13 at MacArthur Beverages, you should grab several bottles and look out for future vintages.
2014 Causse du Theron, Terrasse, Cahors – $13
Imported by Altos Las Hormigas USA. This wine is 100% Malbec. Alcohol 13%. Earthy, mineral, black fruit immediately comes out with watering acidity through the finish. The fruit flavor is firm but the earth is light and expansive with an ethereal ripe quality in the aftertaste. With air it becomes a touch floral with a note of hard candy like pastilles. Unique and quite good. *** Now – 2023.
Title page from Daniel Rhagor’s Pflantz-Gart (1639)
Title page from Daniel Rhagor’s Pflantz-Gart (1639). Image from UB Bern. [1]
The text, stemming from both contemporary knowledge and classic sources, is largely in German with a good dose of Latin. At the end of each chapter are corollaria where we see Rhagor’s sources include the French. Thus we learn that Vinum novellum, Newer Wein, and Vin nouveau are all the same.
[1] Rhagor, Daniel: Pflantz-Gart, darinn grundtlicher Bericht zufinden, welcher gestalten 1. Obs-Gärten, 2. Kraut-Gärten, 3. Wein-Gärten, mit Lust unnd Nutz anzustellen, zu […] : sampt zu End eines jeden Capitels beygefügter Verteutschung … lateinischer und frantzösischer Wörteren. Bern : bey Stephan Schmid : in Verlegung dess Auctoris, 1639. Universitätsbibliothek Bern, MUE Klein z 424, http://doi.org/10.3931/e-rara-21930 / Public Domain Mark
[2] Stuber, Martin. “From Pflantz-Gart (1639) to Stamm-Register (1865) – on the history of knowledge of fruit cultivation in the canton of Bern”
[3]
A modest López de Heredia tasting
I recently met up with Sudip to taste seven wines from López de Heredia; three Viña Gravonia, three Viña Bosconia, and one Viña Tondonia as a reference. López de Heredia dates back to the 19th century in Rioja but for our purposes we concentrated on relatively young vintages back to 1998. I was most curious to see how much vintage variation there is.
Of the trio of 2004, 2002, and 1998 Viña Gravonia I much preferred the oldest vintage. All of the wines bear oxidized, apple orchard aromas and flavors but the 1998 sports the least being the most vinous. It has zippy acidity with some ripeness to the flavors. The 2000 was pungent, evocative of mushrooms and the simplest. The 2004 is clearly the youngest. It is crisp with tart lemon and clean flavors. I found it a bit tight and think it will drink better several years down the road. Once these wines develop they should hold well for years. For those who have yet to taste Gravonia it is unique.
All of the red wines were double-decanted. The 1999 Viña Bosconia quickly became and remained my favorite Bosconia for current drinking, in fact it is still young! It combines both fruit, damp earth, and bottle age, all delivered with tension. I expect further cellaring to be beneficial. The 2000 is muted and mature. The 2005 is young but already sports some earthy funk like the 1999. The structure and acidity is there for development, which is certainly will do, but our bottle of 1999 reveals greater potential.
Finally, the 2005 Viña Tondonia shows great potential. It is savory, young and dense in a way that there is stuffing for decades of aging supported by the structure. It is drinkable now but remains closely played. It is worth the extra $5 over the 2005 Viña Bosconia.
2004 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12.5%. The most aromatic with yeasty, apple orchard aromas. A touch more acidity in the mouth, tart lemon, clean, good body, and wood-like texture. Crisp. **(*) Now – 2023 then will last.
2002 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12.5%. A pungent nose of orchard fruit. A soft entry of mushroom-like flavor, then acidity and apple-orchard in the finish. The simplest of the trio. ** Now.
1998 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, Rioja Blanco
Imported by USA Wine Imports. This wine is 100% Viura Alcohol 12%. A golden honey color. Good nose. An oxidized hint though the wine is more vinous with apple-like, zippy acidity. There is modest body to the ethereal ripe flavors which cover the mouth but leave the middle slightly hollow. There less noticeable acidity in the end. *** Now but will last.
2005 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva – $35
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13.5%. Good fruit, cherry flavors, and a little earth have grapey density into the tart, cranberry middle. A young natured wine but already some attractive funk is present. With air a supporting, fine dry structure becomes evident with dry, black and red flavors in the finish. *** Now – 2028.
2000 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva
Imported by Polarn Selections. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. The most muted nose of the four reds with a bit of stink. A bit more mature in the mouth, red fruit, watering acidity, a touch of ink then sharper in the finish. With air it is dusty in the mouth with a similar profile but more pronounced sour cherry flavor. Not the best of the trio. *(*) Now.
1999 López de Heredia, Viña Bosconia, Rioja Riserva
Imported by USA Wine Imports. This wine is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. Aromatic with attractive damp earth notes. Fruiter in the mouth, cedar, bottle age flavors, and fine textured tannins add presence. There is citric tension and grip to add life. With air there remains a core of flavor which carries through the end with an aftertaste of sour cherries and acidity. ***(*) Now – 2028.
2005 López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Rioja Riserva – $40
Imported by Think Global Wine Selections. This wine is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 5% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo. Alcohol 13%. Young, fruity, and dense. With air this savory wine shows body but also has the acidity and structure for it to age. Strong future potential. **** Now – 2038.
A mixture of wines young and old
I met up with Lou and another friend for a casual after-work tasting of wines. We started with a pair of bottles from the Finger Lakes of New York. I have now enjoyed the 2016 Red Tail Ridge Winery, Sparkling Riesling Petillant Naturel, Finger Lakes on three different occasions. This bottle was particularly frothy with a core of fruit and vein of bubbles that make it delicious to drink right now. Also made from Riesling, but smelling like there is Sauvignon Blanc as well, is the 2016 Heart & Hands, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes. It is a solid wine of tart citrus and chalk flavor.
The pair of 2014 White Burgundy yielded a generous, rapidly maturing 2014 Gautier Thevenet, Domaine Emilian Gillet, Quintaine, Vire-Clesse. Of good value I would say. In comparison, the 2014 Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet is less fruity and the better wine. With a core of lemon and ripe apple, there is an acidic spine, all of which lasts with good length.
Made from the youngest vines, 2017 Pierre-Marie Chermette, Griottes, Beaujolais is a well-made, enjoyable, grapey wine. It is pure, fresh, and acted as our gateway to a trio of mystery wines.
I admit to being confused. I had settled in on the wines being from the 1960s and 1970s, with origins in Italy or California, and at least one Cabernet Sauvignon. Mystery #1 – 1974 Croce di Fralupaia, Chianti was younger than I thought but not worth drinking. Mystery #2 – 1991 Tenuta Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino was also younger than I thought but sound, which gives you an ideal of its maturity curve. With air it took on body and flavor to become rather enjoyable. The final bottle is the modest Mystery #3 – 1984 Steltzner Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley.
2016 Red Tail Ridge Winery, Sparkling Riesling Petillant Naturel, Finger Lakes
Alcohol 13%. Very frothy at first but the body soon develops. There is a focused fruit core with the fine bubble vein. With air and warmth the Riesling origins come out. Easy to drink. *** Now – 2020.
2016 Heart & Hands, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes
Alcohol 11.5%. A very light straw color. A good nose, aromatic with both grassy and petrol aromas. A soft frame exists for the whole fruit Riesling flavor. There is some chalk and a slightly, tart citrus flavor in the end. The acidity is balanced by the sugar such that it does not come across as lively. Some engaging grip develops. ** Now.
2014 Gautier Thevenet, Domaine Emilian Gillet, Quintaine, Vire-Clesse
Imported by Simon N Cellars. Alcohol 14%. A very light yellow. A rounded edge with with ripe lemon flavors, stones in the middle, and some fat in the finish. It is easy to drink and will mature rapidly. **(*) Now – 2020.
2014 Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet
Alcohol 13%. A very light green yellow color. There is a focused fruit impression at first but this wine is not all about the fruit. It is dense and focused with a good, acidic spine. There are hints of yeast and wood. With air the flavors settle on lemon with a ripe, apple core. Good length. *** Now – 2023.
2017 Pierre-Marie Chermette, Griottes, Beaujolais
Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. Alcohol 12.5%. A purple, red cranberry color. Grapey and bright on the nose. The flavors are evocative of young, grape juicy being light, very pure, and fresh. Tart berries and grip are closed by a round, verve finish. ** Now.
Mystery #1 – 1974 Croce di Fralupaia, Chianti
Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12%. Past prime on the nose with a banana aroma. In the mouth it is falling apart with some leather, animale, and a hint of freshness. There is a touch of fat-edged flavor and body but it soon turns acidic with green apple flavors. Past prime. Not Rated.
Mystery #2 – 1991 Tenuta Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino
Imported by Palace Brands. Alcohol 13%. A garnet, brick color. It tasted quite mature at first with bottle aged flavors, citric acidity, and citric pithe on the gums. But magically, with air, it develops both body and flavor. It even takes on a luxurious, marshmallow mouth feel. *** Now.
Mystery #3 – 1984 Steltzner Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Earthy fruit with red cranberry flavors, a grippy nature, and clearly the most acidic of all the wines tasted. Vibrant but a bit thin in flavor with a slight green edge. ** Now.
A tasting of 2015 German Riesling with a few bottles of Champagne
A generous friend hosted a small group to taste through an even larger number of German Riesling bottles. The focus was largely on 2015 German Riesling with an additional flight of 2008 Riesling Spätlese and several bottles of bubbles throughout.
The 2015 vintage is excellent allowing for the generally high quality of the wines we tasted from both new and established producers. On the young side, the 2015 Keller, Riesling von der Fels, Rheinhessen is in need of some age. It is dry, matching the stone flavor with good tension from acidity. The 2015 Eva Fricke, Kiedricher Riesling Trocken, Rheingau offers fruit and ripeness, making it a good wine right now but it will also benefit from age. Real beauty is found in the 2015 Schäfer-Fröchlich, Vulkangestein Riesling trocken, Nahe. I found it crisp yet with flesh and fruit. I really liked the 2015 Hofgut Falkenstein, Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken, Mosel which is powerful and perfumed with great presence in the mouth. Offering all of the desired components, the 2015 A. J. Adam, in der sängerei Riesling feinherb, Mosel is the best choice for drinking now. I was sure to revisit it a few times.
Of the trio of 2008 Spätlese, there was a fun pairing of 2008 Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese, Nahe black and gold capsule. My current preference is for the black capsule which has vibrant acidity and a chalky finish. The gold capsule offers yellow, honied, complex fruit. but this richness is not matched by the acidity. They are on different maturity curves and for now, the black capsule is more exciting. The 2008 Müller-Catoir, Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spätlese brings forth thoughts of gold, honey, and petrol. Lovely stuff!
Of the other wines the pair of NV Ulysse Collin, Les Roises, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut and NV Ulysse Collin, Les Pierrieres, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut deserve mention. Both of these wines are fermented in used oak barrels with indigenous yeast then spend another year or so in oak. The Les Roises vineyard contains 60 year old vines on soils rich in clay whereas Les Pierrieres contains 35 year old vines on chalky soils. Our two bottles are Lot 10 being disgorged in 2014. Les Roises offers more berries, complexity, and some earth. It is the broader of the pair and is so perfectly drinkable right now. Les Pierrieres is drier and firm. While it did improve with air, it really needs further time in the cellar.
Many thanks to our host for sharing all of these excellent bottles of wine.
Starters
2013 Hermann J. Wiemer, Cuvee Brut, Seneca Lakes
Alcohol 12%. Disgorged February 2017. A very light straw color. Slight robust white fruit on the nose. A moderate mousse with chalk flavors and grip exist in this refreshing wine. Solid with a creamy mousse in the end. ** Now but will last.
NV Etienne Calsac, L’echappee Belle, Champagne Extra Brut
Imported by Paris Wine Co. This wine is a blend of 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir. Bottled May 2012. Disgorged October 2015. More yellow with a light straw color. Aromatic with a toast note. Robust bubbles move towards a yeasty mousse. Medium bodied in the middle with some fat in the racy finish. Tastes Mature. *** Now.
2015 German Riesling
2015 Rita & Rudolf Trossen, Lay Pur’us, Riesling, Mosel
Imported by Envoyer Imports. This wine is 100% Riesling fermented in wooden tanks with indigenous yeasts over a period of 8 months. Aged for 8 months. No additions. Alcohol 12%. A honey tinged gold color. Some sweetness on the nose. Surprisingly sour in the mouth with apple orchard flavors before becoming quite dry with a streak of acidity. Reminds me of a lambic. Weird. * Now.
2015 Eva Fricke, Kiedricher Riesling Trocken, Rheingau
Imported by Bonhomie Wine Imports. Alcohol 12%. A pale straw with yellow color. Some petrol on the nose. In the mouth this is lively yet there is ripe fruit from the start. Good texture and tannins on the gums. Good wine. ***(*) Now – 2028.
2015 Schäfer-Fröchlich, Vulkangestein Riesling trocken, Nahe
A Rudi Wiest selection imported by Cellars International. This wine is 100% Riesling sourced from vines on volcanic soils in and around Schlossbockelheim. Alcohol 12%. A very light straw white color. Grapefruit and peach fruit on the nose. In the mouth this is a beautiful wine with crisp acidity and floral accented fruit. It fleshes out with warmth showing a juicy fruit style and some fat. **** Now – 2028.
2015 Wagner Stempel, Siefersheim Riesling vom Porphyr, Rheinhessen
A Rudi Wiest selection imported by Cellars International. Alcohol 12.5%. A razor sharp wine with tense acidity. There is a chalk undertone matching the citrus pithe left on the gums. There is a lot of presence with this wine which finally shows more fruit in the end mixing with a petrol note and an interesting, garrigue-like flavor. *** Now – 2033.
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein, Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken, Mosel
A Lars Carlberg Selection imported by T. Elenteny Imports. Alcohol 11%. An interesting wine. Powerful in the start but in the middle, dried florals, lemon citrus fruit, and stones. The finish is perfumed and the aftertaste leaves great presence. Nice wine. **** Now – 2028.
2015 Dr. Nägler, Rüdesheim Bischofsberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, Rheingau
Imported by Winesellers. Alcohol 10.5%. Modest texture with a fruitier start, ripe middle, and simple finish. A bit too simple. ** Now.
2015 Weiser-Kunsteler, Trabener Gaispfad Riesling Kabinett trocken, Mosel
Imported by Vom Boden. Alcohol 10.5%. Almost piercing acidity with hints of sweet tea flavor. The watering acidity lasts through the end where there is clearly defined flavor of black tea and lemon citrus. ** Now but will last for ages.
2015 A. J. Adam, in der sängerei Riesling feinherb, Mosel
Imported by Skurnik Wines. Alcohol 10.5%. Aromatic. Very ripe fruit in the mouth soon takes on acidity and flint. This is hands down an attractive combination of fruit, stone, texture, and acidity. Drink well right now. **** Now – 2023.
2015 Keller, Riesling von der Fels, Rheinhessen
Imported by Petit Pois Corp. Alcohol 12.5%. Close knit with fine texture and certainly tension from the acidity. Stones and a drier nature come out by the middle with flavors of white and yellow, fruit then eventually baking spices. Needs some time. *** 2020-2030.
A pair of Ulysse Collin Champagne
NV Ulysse Collin, Les Roises, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections. Alcohol 12.5%. Lot No. 10. Disgorged March 2014. Gentle fruit on the nose with some earth. In the mouth are berries and already a good amount of complexity. So drinkable. **** Now why wait?
NV Ulysse Collin, Les Pierrieres, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
Imported by T. Elenteny. Alcohol 12.5%. Lot No. 10. Disgorged November 2014. Berry like with a gentle yeast flavor and firm bubbles. Drier with fine, ethereal and powdery fruit. ***(*) Now – 2028.
2008 German Riesling Spätlese
2008 Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese, Nahe black capsule
A Rudi Wiest selection imported by Cellars International. Alcohol 7.5%. A green of green-yellow straw. A fresh start with vibrant acidity throughout along with some residual sugar sweetness. It becomes dry and chalky in the finish where it ends with good effect. ***(*) Now – 2028.
2008 Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese, Nahe gold capsule
A Rudi Wiest selection imported by Cellars International. Alcohol 7.5%. Gold with a hint of green. Richer with flavors of yellow, honied fruit. Not the same level of acidity but the fruit is more complex, the honied sweetness is attractive, and there is more density. *** Now – 2023.
2008 Müller-Catoir, Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spätlese
D. Sokolin Co. Imported by Wine Cellars. Alcohol 9.5%. The most golden of the trio. Petrol on the nose with seductive flavors of honey and baking spices. The aftertaste leaves a note of honey. **** Now.
One red wine
2005 Lillian, California Syrah
Alcohol 15.6%. Inky and racy, a wine turned up to 110%. Hard to drink and not my style. * Now but will last.
Dessert
1988 von Hövel, Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Auslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 375 mL
Imported by Cellars International. Alcohol 7.5%. Long in the tooth. Not Rated.
A Northern Rhone Tasting with Mosel too
Several months ago we gathered on my back deck to taste through some Northern Rhone wines. The focus was to be on Cornas and Côte-Rôtie but these wines were soon joined by Champagne (required of course), Hermitage, Mosel, and Paarl. The killer 1998 Dom Perignon, P2 Champagne Brut with its equally impressive gift box was the best wine of the night. It is drinking spot-on but as it is a different beast, it did not distract from the red wines.
From Cornas, my favorites include the brambly and strong 2007 Thierry Allemand, Cornas Reynard. Nearly as good, yet quite different, is the animale, crisp 2001 Dumien-Serrette, Cuvee Vieilles Vignes, Cornas Patou. Graphite and vintage perfume add complexity at a reasonable price.
From Côte-Rôtie, my favorite is the 1998 Gilles Barge, Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune. Floral on the nose, this is an elegant wine with plenty of minerals and violets. It also yields fat for weight. I kept returning to my glass for another sniff. Of the slew of 1998s, the 1998 Domaine Jamet, Côte-Rôtie proved to be mostly reticent but did improve with extended air. It is meatier and smokier than the Barge. The pair of 2007s proved excellent too. The cleaner 2007 Guigal, Côte-Rôtie La Mouline had my preference tilted towards it for the floral, lifted flavors over the deep base. There is a lot of material here. Whereas, the 2007 Bernard Levet, Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche is substantial, yet balanced, with a wild flavor personality. What a fantastic range of styles from one small region.
We wrapped up the evening with a trio of excellent Mosel Rieslings and a dessert wine from Paarl. I only took small tastes of these wines so my notes are short. The two that stand out are the clean and vibrant 2006 Hofgut Falkenstein, Krettnacher Euchariusberg, Riesling Auslese, Mosel with the lovely 2001 Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Auslese, Mosel. Many thanks for everyone’s contributions.
Champagne
1998 Dom Perignon, P2 Champagne Brut
Alcohol 12.5%. Fine bubbles explode, leaving a lovely texture backed by flavors of ripe spices. The acidity cuts through the end, supporting wood box hints and the creamy, mousse finish. ****(*) Now
Hermitage
1997 Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage Blanc le Chevalier de Sterimberg
Golden amber color. An interesting nose, honied flavors but past prime. Not Rated.
1997 Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage La Chapelle
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons. Alcohol 13.4%. Roast earth with fine wood scents. Light in the mouth with watering acidity, polished wood, and effortless delivery of cherry flavor. The wine takes on body, which is seductive, but the flavors are rather mature. *** Now.
1983 E. Guigal, Hermitage
Imported by Classic Wine Imports. Dead. Not Rated.
Cornas
2007 Thierry Allemand, Cornas Reynard
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. A brambly nose with interesting aromas including violets. A sensation of weight greets in this young wine with youthful intensity and hints of yeast. There is concentration, ripe tannins, and fruit extract with both acidity and tannins in the dry finish and aftertaste. With air a sage, green herb component develops. Strength. **** Now – 2028.
2007 Thierry Allemand, Cornas Chaillot
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. Pure in fruit with finely scents aromas of pepper and sweet baking spices. Grapey fruit in the mouth, black pepper, and tons of texture. With air it takes on a yeasty Pilsner quality that destroys everything. Not Rated.
2001 Dumien-Serrette, Cuvee Vieilles Vignes, Cornas Patou
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. Young with plenty of mouth feel from its citric grip and tannins. There is graphite and an animale hint in this crisp wine with drier flavors and good presence in the mouth. It has a lovely vintage perfume aspect that adds complexity to the good flavor. ***(*) Now – 2033.
Côte-Rôtie
1998 Gilles Barge, Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. Alcohol 12.5%. The floral, perfumed nose smells great. In the mouth are focused flavors that build minerality and becoming impressive at the end with good length. With air elegant hints of fat lend weight and balance the wine. By the middle, tannins and acidity come out which will see the wine through further development. A beautiful wine all about minerals and violets. **** Now – 2023.
1998 Bernard Burgaud, Côte-Rôtie
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. Alcohol 12.5%. Very aromatic, meaty, fresh, and notes of vintage perfume. Yet in the mouth it is tart, grapey, with pervasive earthiness overpowering everything. Not quite right which is a shame. Not Rated.
1998 Mathilde et Yves Gangloff, Côte-Rôtie
Imported by Vineyard Road. The restrained nose remains tight and unyielding but a delicate, floral aroma does escape. Smoked meats, along with pure, red and black fruits greet. There is a restrained, tannic structure that smooths out as watering acidity moves the wine into the lipsticky finish. Right now, this is a wine with ample presence and texture in the mouth. *** Now – 2028+.
1998 Domaine Jamet, Côte-Rôtie
Imported by Robert Kacher Selections. Hints of sweet fruit on the nose backed by meat and smoke. Dense and gentle in the mouth,the textured red fruit become coated with fat. Beautiful and elegant with fine texture from extract. ***(*) Now – 2028.
1998 Rene Rostaing, Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
Pure bloody, meat but not much else there on the nose. Not quite right. Silky in the mouth with flavors of meat and a short finish. Not right. Not Rated.
Mystery Wine – 2012 Halcon, Alturas, Yorkville Highlands Syrah
Alcohol 13.5%. Purple, grapey nose with gobs of grapey flavors in the mouth. Hard to transition to but a solid wine. **(*) Now – 2023.
2007 Guigal, Côte-Rôtie La Mouline
Imported by Vintus. Alcohol 13%. A beautiful, floral nose. Grapey, purple fruit flavors surrounded by fat. There is a floral lift to the deep, lifted flavors which I prefer over the Levett. A modern take on Syrah with floral persistence in the finish and aftertaste. ****(*) Now – 2033.
2007 Bernard Levet, Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche
Imported by Neal Rosenthal. Alcohol 12.5%. A floral, substantive nose. In the mouth are fat infused, dense and supple flavors of intertwined black fruit and minerals. Impressive balance. It takes on red grapefruit with both animale and sauvage complexity. The flavors drape over the tongue with weight and seamless body. There are very fine yet not dry tannins that peak out in the end. **** Now – 2033.
German Riesling
2006 Hofgut Falkenstein, Krettnacher Euchariusberg, Riesling Auslese, Mosel
Alcohol 7%. The lightest color of the trio, almost white. Clean, residual sugar in the start soon morphs into grapefruit with a tart, vibrantly acidic middle, and tangy finish. Clean.
2006 Willi Schaefer, Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Alcohol 8%. A golden color with petrol on the nose. Some vibranrancy but surprisingly advanced. Petrol and weight.
2001 Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Auslese, Mosel
A light yellow color. Hints of petrol along with citrus fruit on the nose. Very fine textured acidity, lovely.
Dessert
2000 Fairview Wine Estate, Le Beryl Blanc, Paarl
An amber color with flavors of apricots and dried fruit. Good balance.
The must-try 2011 Nino Negri, Inferno Valtellina Superiore
Nino Negro has produced wine in Valtellina since the late 19th century. Located in northern Italy, the vineyards for the 2011 Nino Negri, Inferno Valtellina Superiore are located on the Alps which form the border with Switzerland. The rocky Inferno sub-region is regarded as the hottest in the area. So steep and treacherous are the vineyards that Negri transports the grapes to the winery by helicopter. This wine offers an aromatic showing right out of the bottle with improved flavor after double-decanting. It is a compelling wine with a proper nose and dry, expansive flavors. It has benefited from bottle age and while enjoyable now, should continue to improve over the next few years. My thanks to Tim for recommending it at MacArthur Beverages.
2011 Nino Negri, Inferno Valtellina Superiore – $23
Imported by Frederick Wildman. This wine is 100% Nebbiolo fermented in stainless steel then aged for 24 months in a mixture of Slavonian and French oak barrels. Alcohol 13%. A proper nose, already engaging due to some bottle age. In the mouth are brighter flavors in this lighter weight wine. Dry flavors of tart cherry and leather give sappy complexity, blending with spot-on acidity. A compelling wine with expansive, ethereal flavors and a slightly, baking spiced finish. ***(*) Now – 2028.
2016 Stephane Ogier, Les Temps Est Venu, Cotes du Rhone
The 2016 Stephane Ogier, Les Temps Est Venu, Cotes du Rhone is the latest, tasty vintage of this wine made primarily from Plan de Dieu fruit. It follows in the tradition of 2015 by offering up plenty of forward, nearly full-bodied flavor. The first bottle I opened was drunk in a group setting so I did not have more than a glass. I found it forward and a bit soft. With the second bottle, I followed it to the end and like the 2015, it becomes balanced with air. The structure and acidity provide the needed framework. It has good complexity now so in short, buy, buy, buy! You may find it at MacArthur Beverages.
2016 Stephane Ogier, Les Temps Est Venu, Cotes du Rhone – $16
Imported by Robert Kacher. This wine is a blend of mostly Grenache with Syrah, Mourvedre, and a dollop of Cinsault. The fruit is largely sourced from Plan de Dieu, fermented in concrete vats where it is also aged for 12 months. Alcohol 14%. Forward and soft at first then with air the wine oscillates until the tangy start then builds form by the finish. This medium to full-bodied wine has flavors of red and blue fruits that tighten up to good effect with support from a modest structure. Notes of garrigue and Southern Rhone warmth add complexity. *** Now – 2021.
A good future for the 2015 Rostaing, Syrah Les Lezardes
The 2015 Domaine Rostaing, Syrah Les Lézardes is produced using fruit from vineyards located on the northern border of the Côte Rôtie appellation. It is, in some sense, a mini Côte Rôtie at an affordable price. I have drunk two bottles already, one being more open than the other. This wine is best left to age for another year but with decanting, the floral aromas and fat coated fruit will bring you back for more.
2015 Domaine Rostaing, Syrah Les Lézardes, VdP Collines Rhodaniennes – $35
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is 100% Syrah. Alcohol 13.5%. Floral and herbal on the nose. In the mouth this young wine starts dry and tight with a very fine, yet gentle structure. With air the wine builds flavors of firm black and red fruit surround by a modest coating of fat. ***(*) 2019 – 2028.
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