A Wine from Thierry Germain

Another quick note for tonight.  This wine was recently recommended to me.  I enjoyed it for its interesting texture and red fruit flavors.  It really needs a few years in the cellar so be sure to stash a few bottles away.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2010 Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur-Champigny – $19
Imported by Elite Wines.  This wine is 100% Cabernet Franc sourced from 25+ vineyards. It was fermented with indigenous yeasts then aged for seven months in tank.  Alcohol 13%.  The color is light to medium black cherry with ruby.  The light nose was scented with pepper and raspberry.  Tasted over two nights this wine is finely textured from tannins.  There are bright, lithe fruit mixed with orange citrus acidity and citric tannins.  The flavors are tart in the middle with salivating acidity, and cinnamon spiced tannins.  Though light in weight it is full in the mouth.  With air more red fruit develops in the middle.  Needs a few years.  **(*) 2014-2017.

A Tasty and Affordable Wine From Argentina

With the 75th running of the International Gold Cup this Saturday I am in complete planning and execution mode for our tailgate party.  For those curious you may follow my Tweets @TimberAndBrush.  But I am still tasting new wines and hope to share them with you.  During the evenings I am focusing on vintage race results so right now I am preferring inexpensive wines.  This random selection pleasantly pleased us yesterday night.  I would drink more at this price point.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2010 Bodegas Diamandes, Perlita, Mendoza – $11
Imported by Dourthe USA.  This wine is a blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Syrah.  It was fermented in stainless steel then aged for eight months in 80% used and 20% new French oak barrels.  Alcohol 14.5%  The nose is light, young, and full of violets. In the mouth there is cool blue and black fruit, lifted and youthful.  It slowly develops a little juiciness, some ripeness, and the acidity comes out in the finish.  There is a little weight, textured tannins, and stoney structure.  Completely satisfying for the short-term.  ** Now-2016.

We Find Comfort with Torbreck, Woodcutter’s Shiraz

We are long-time fans of David Powell’s Torbreck, Woodcutter’s Shiraz.  This bottle is a rich experience with plenty of fruit which you may drink now.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2010 Torbreck, Woodcutter’s Shiraz, Barossa Valley – $19
Imported by Wine Creek.  This wine is 100% Shiraz which was fermented in cement, wooden, and stainless steel vats then basket pressed into seasoned hogshead and French oak foudres where it was aged for 12 months.  TA 5.67 g/L, pH 3.81, Alcohol 14.5%.  The color was dark purple with garnet.  Tasted over two nights the nose remained berry-licious.  In the mouth there was minerally blue fruit with heady, brambly red fruit.  The stone framed fruit has acidity which stands up the flavors.  The flavors gently fills the mouth before the heady finish which is a little tangy.  There is a soft, rich aftertaste with some spice and cookie dough notes.  *** Now-2017.

Several Wines Tasted One Month Ago

It is through no fault of these wines that I am only just publishing these tasting notes from over one month ago.  They just fell through the cracks.  Of these four I would recommend the Clso Siguier, Antoniolo, and Lioco.  The Clos Siguier was purchased for Wishing Well Liquors, the Antoniolo from MacArthur Beverages, and the other two from Unwined.

2009 Clos Siguier, Cahors –
A Jenny & Francois Selection imported by USA Wine Imports.  This wine is a blend of 95% Malbec and 5% Tannat sourced from 60-year-old vines.   The fruit is fermented with indigenous yeasts. Alcohol 12.5%.  There is a light perfumed nose with a singular berry aroma.  In the mouth there was slightly tart, red fruit then dusty blue fruit.  There were drying but slightly ripe tannins and a little juicy acidity.  Easy to drink.  ** Now.

2010 Azienda Agricola Antoniolo, Bricco Lorella, Coste della Sesia – $16
Imported by Bacchus Importers.  This wine is 100% Nebbiolo.  Alcohol 13%.  The color is a light+ vibrant copper and salmon.  The nose is gentle with winey aromas of lightly ripe fruit.  In the mouth the wine is weighty with sandy texture, spices, some tannins, and a good aftertaste.  The tarter red fruit puckers in the mouth at first then the flavors become drier towards the middle.  This is a wine to slowly drink at a warmer temperature.  ** Now-2013.

2009 Lioco, Indica, Mendocino County – $18
This wine is a blend of 85% Carignan, 9% Grenache, and 6% Petite Sirah.  The fruit was fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts.  It underwent malolactic fermentation then aged for 10 months on the fine lees in neutral oak.  The nose is a light to medium with aromas of red and blue fruit and notes of the sea.  In the mouth the tart red fruit has a touch of blue.  There is juicy acidity, a bit of a tang, and moderate body.  With air the wine puts on some fat.  As the fresh flavors drop off they are replaced by dried, grainy strawberry and blueberry.  The textured, grainy flavors continue through the aftertaste where there are perfumed tannins.  *** Now-2015.

2007 Domaine Sarda-Malet, Le Sarda, Cotes du Roussillon – $20
Imported by Europvin USA.  This wine is a blend of approximately 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, and 20% Syrah sourced from 20-50 year old vines on clay-limestone and clay-siliceous hillsides.  Alcohol 14%.  The nose reveals red fruit and a little cranberry.  In the mouth there is red fruit with orange juice backing, dried herbs, and dry, citric tannins.  There is moderate weight, juicy acidity but remains lighter than expected.  The acidity and dried herbs persist through the long aftertaste.  ** Now-2017.

Hanging Out at Lou’s Tasting Room

This past weekend Lou and I took advantage of a quiet afternoon to hang out at his house.  We typically spend out time in the kitchen and dinning room but this time Lou suggested we bring the wine, cheese, and charcuterie downstairs.  As I descended the cellar stairway I saw the finished and furnished tasting room for the first time.  It is now complete with leather chairs, a side tables, shelves, desk, and a computer.  There we sat leisurely drinking the wines and catching up on our recent experiences.  I thought the Lapierre could use another year of age to open up.  The Calcinaia was quite satisfying and robust enough for cold evenings.  These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

Lou has worked on a post detailing the construction of his cellar.  Keep an eye out for it will be published later today.

2011 Marcel Lapierre, Morgon – $26
Imported by Kermit Lynch.  This wine is 100% Gamay sourced from 60-year-old vines on granitic gravel soils.  The whole-cluster fruit is fermented with indigenous yeasts then aged for at least nine months on the fine lees in used Burgundy foudres and futs.  The color was a medium red ruby with purple hints on the rim.  The light nose was scented with red fruit and a hint of fresh pepper.  In the mouth the red fruit is light to medium in strength and integrated with citrus-like tannins and pepper notes.  There is delicate texture, a little lifted ripe strawberry in the finish, and eventually moderately spiced, macerated strawberries.  *** 2013-2016.

1998 San Fabiano Calcinaia, Cerviolo, Tuscany – $26
This wine is a blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot, and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from vineyards at 260 meters.  It was aged for 12 months in used barriques.  Alcohol 14.5%.  The color is a medium+ garnet ruby.  The light to medium nose is Italian with lifted wood box aromas.  In the mouth this medium bodied wine has ripe, fosucsed red fruit, wood box notes, and a gritty touch to the fruit.  There are still some pleasing ripe, drying tannins.  The flavors are drying in the finish with darker fruit in the aftertaste.  Still tastes on the youthful side of maturity.  *** Now-2020.

A Pair of White Wines

We continue our exploration of white wines by recently tasting two selections from Cune and Le Rocher Des Violettes.  Of these two I recommend you try the Cune.  It has some engaging complexity, will last several days in the refrigerator,and it is cheap!  The Le Rocher Des Violettes reveals quite a lot of acidity and never developed much depth of flavor.  I actually prefer off-dry Les Bourderies over this dry Touche-Mitaine.  These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2011 Cune, Monopole, Rioja – $13
Imported by Europvin USA.  This wine is 100% Viura fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel.  TA 5.3 g/L, pH 3.3, Alcohol 13%.  The color is a very light straw.  The fine nose is light and interesting with ripe white fruit and flowers.  In the mouth there is white, stoney fruit, citrus, and a moderately bodied mouthfeel in the middle.  There are stones and dried herbs followed by a touch of sweet spices and dried herbs in the finish.  It is a bit crisp, with dry flavors and a drying aftertaste.  There is plenty of acidity at first which tapers off then returns towards the end.  *** Now-2014.

2010 Le Rocher Des Violettes, Touche-Mitaine, Montlouis-sur-Loire – $22
Imported by Vintage ’59.  This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc sourced from a four hectare parce of 30+ year old vines on limestone and flint soil.  A portion of the wine is, up to 33%, is raised in stainless steel with the rest in used barrels.  It is aged for six months.  Alcohol 13%.  The color is a light straw with a hint of copper.  The nose is reminiscent of a field.  In the mouth the wine follows the nose with vibrant acidity which drives the flavors.  Citrus flavors expand on and to the sides of the tongue.  This is a very precise wine with tangy, chalky notes, and a dry finish.  There is a persistent mouth-filling aftertaste.  Should be drunk with food.  ** Now-2017.

A Hearty Red Wine from Fattoria Coroncino

I randomly grabbed this wine from Fattoria Coroncino off a rack at MacArthur Beverages.  With no prior knowledge about this wine I pulled the cork and poured it into our glasses.  The nose revealed dried fruit aromas which were reinforced on the palate immediately confirming this wine was fermented with some dried fruit.  Sure enough, it is a passito.  Fattoria Coroncino was founded by Lucio Canestrari and his wife Fiorella De Nardo in 1981.  They produce wine from 17.5 hectares of vines spread over three vineyards.  These vineyards are located between 250 and 400 meters in elevation.  They farm and produce wine using a common sense approach.  They started grassing their vineyards in 1983, started using organic methods to control diseases and pests, and stopped using fertilizer in 1995.  They harvest the fruit by hand. This is certainly an interesting wine for a cold fall evening.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2007 Fattoria Coroncino, Ganzerello,  Marche – $17
Imported by Williams Corner Wines.  This wine is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Syrah produced in a passito style.  Alcohol 16%.  The nose is heady with some dried fruit and jammy, red fruit with air.  In the mouth there are red fruit and prune flavors, ripe tannins, and a little warmth.  With air there is dense dried red fruit, fine+ wood tannins which coat the teeth and lips, and warmth in the throat during the aftertaste.  This needs a few years to come together.  ** 2014-2019.

We Drink German Pinot Noir

This is the time of year when I shift part of my energies to planning our annual International Gold Cup tailgate party.  For pictures from last year’s party please look here.  This year is the 75th running so we are putting in extra effort and for the next two weeks my posts might be shorter.

We recently drank this German Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) from Friedrich Becker.  The estate initially focused on white wines but over the decades has come to focus in on red wines.  The vineyards are currently planted with 60% Pinot Noir.  I enjoyed this entry-level estate Pinot Noir for its red fruit and minerality.  There is enough acidity in this wine that I would recommend drinking it with food.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2009 Friedrich Becker Estate, Pinot Noir, Pfalz – $17
Imported by Rudi Wiest Wines.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from vines on soils of loess, marl, chalk, and clay.  RS 1.8 g/L, Alcohol 13.0%.  The color is a light garnet with a cherry core.  The light nose is of evocative of Pinot Noir with an orange citrus note.  In the mouth the flavors start with tangy red fruit and lots of acidity before taking on hard black-red fruit with minerals.  There is a fine texture as tannins are left on the tongue, along with salivating acidity in the aftertaste.  There is a bit of a throat burn from the acidity.  ** Now-2016.

The Wines of Louis-Antoine Luyt

A week ago we drank four different Chilean wines by Louis-Antoine Luyt.  These were fun wines to taste.  I might have my preferences for current drinking but I want to start by suggesting you buy all four wines.  They are each unique, clearly exist with a purpose, and will surely change how you view Chilean wine.

Carignan for Primavera, the Comavida Parcel, Image from Clos Ouvert

The fruit for Louis-Antoine’s wines are literally rooted in over three centuries of history.  The grape vine is not indigenous to Chile and was first brought over in 1548 by Francisco de Carabantes.  Just three years later the first recorded vintage in Chile took place.  By the 1640s grapes were so abundant that they could not be disposed of.

Ovalle, in his History of Chili, says that grapes were so plentiful in 1646, that they could not be disposed of… White wines were made from that species of grape called Uba Torrontes and Albilla which were much valued; red wines were made from the ordinary grape and a species called Mollar.  The bunches of grapes, he says, were enormously large; and he mentions one that filled a basket, and served as a meal for a numerous convent of friars. The branches of the vine he describes as very large, and the trunks of the trees as thick as a man’s body.

Morewood, Samuel.  A Philosophical and Statistical History of the Inventions and Customs of Ancient and Modern Nations in the Manufacture and Use of Inebriating Liquors.  Dublin: William Curry, Jun. and Company, 1838. pp 307-308.

Louis-Antoine’s oldest vines have roots dating from 120 years back to 350 years or 1660.  These vines are of the Pais varietal, also known as Mollar, which is a clonal variation of Listan Negro.  Listan Negro is a Spanish varietal which was brought over from the Canary Islands by the Spanish missionaries.  The vineyards in Chile do not suffer downy mildew nor phylloxera.  As we have seen with the ancient Assyrtiko vines of Santorini, the old roots will live for centuries.  The vines are periodically cut off at the base and a new vine regenerates.  Perhaps the combination of abundant vines along with pest and disease free soils allowed such old vines to survive into the 21st century.

Argentina Cile Uruguay, Instituto Geographico di Agostini, 1952, Image from David Rumsey Map Collection

Louis-Antoine also produces wine from vines dating back 100 years.  These are of varietals such as Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, and Syrah.  In the 1840s French varietals were first imported and specialists from Bordeaux and Rioja were brought over as well.  But it was the devastating European phylloxera of the 1870s which brought an influx of winemakers, viticulturalists, and coopers.  Thus over several decades the use of French varietals spread throughout the country.

The wines featured in this post are all made by Louis-Antoine Luyt.  He is a Frenchman who moved to Chile  some 14 years ago.  During his return trips to work French harvests and go to school he met Mathew Lapierre.  Matthew became his mentor and eventually visited Chile with Louis-Antoine.  Together, along with a third-partner, they began the Clos Ouvert project.  The Clos Ouvert wines are produced from parcel Louis-Antoine rents and tends.  In the devastating earthquake of 2010 the entire production of Clos Ouvert was lost and his partners pulled out.  Louis-Antoine decided to continue the label himself.  The Pais wines are made from purchased fruit which highlight specific parcels.  The Louis-Antoine Luyt wines represent “fun wines” which are made from purchased fruit.  For further information I recommend that you start by reading the interview on the Louis/Dressner website.  You may find it here.  For additional images please view the Clos Ouvert website.

In short, these are unique and engaging wine which I recommend you try.  Many thanks to Jules Dressner for answering my questions.  These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

2010 Louis-Antoine Luyt, Carignan, Trequilemu, Secano – $22
Imported by Louis/Dressner.  Alcohol 12.9%.  The color is medium purple, cloud with bits.  The light to medium scented nose is of delicately ripe, red and blue fruit.  In the mouth there is fresh fruit with density, ripe textured flavors, and acidity from the beginning.  There is an earthy hint to dark red fruit with energy coming from the acidity.  There is a lipstick bit along with fresh orange-juice acidity which causes the mouth to water.  *** Now-2017.

2010 Louis-Antoine Luyt, El Pais de Quenehuao, Valle de Maule – $24
Imported by Louis/Dressner.  Alcohol 12.5%.  The color is light to medium purple with hints of black cherry.  The nose is of floral red fruit, a hint of grapefruit, and an overall brighter, finer scent.  In the mouth there is pure red fruit with more noticeable structure than the Carignan.  The flavors start with a modest prickle.  There are drying red grapefruit flavors and an overall dry nature by the finish and a drying quality on the cheeks.  This wine shows more tannins.  It develops a note similar to pepper.  *** Now-2015.

2009 Clos Ouvert, Carmenere, Cauquenes, Valle de Maule – $27
Imported by Louis/Dressner.  Alcohol 14.5%.  The nose bears a little greenhouse, floral note.  In the mouth the flavors are lively on the tongue with earthy, bramble fruit.  This wine is minerally with sweet spices and very lifted in the finish and aftertaste.  There is lively acidity, balance throughout, and ripe tannins.  The long aftertaste is a bit racy and earthy.  *** Now-2019.

2010 Clos Ouvert, Primavera, Secano, Valle de Maule – $27
Imported by Louis/Dressner.  Alcohol 14%.  The nose is of red fruit, citrus, and a yeast note.  In the mouth there is tight, red brambly fruit which is lively on the tongue.  There are chalky minerals, orange juice acidity, and red concentrated fruit which remained tight over two nights.  This is a structured wine with citric tannins and comes across as the youngest of all four.  *** 2015-2020.

Harry Karis Visits MacArthur Beverages

This past Wednesday Harry Karis stopped by MacArthur Beverages to taste the wines of Domaine de la Solitude.  Harry Karis is the author of “The Chateauneuf-du-Pape Wine Book”.  His life-long passion for wine developed into a focus on Chateauneuf-du-Pape and ultimately led to the authoring of this comprehensive, objective book.  This book sits amongst my other Rhone books by the authors John Livingstone-Learmonth, Robert W. Mayberry, and Robert M. Parker, Jr.  I was fortunate to spend a relaxing hour with Harry Karis, Olivia Bombart (OSLO Enterprise), and Phil.  Harry Karis’s 50-60 recent visits to Chateauneuf-du-Pape have yielded depth of knowledge and experiences.  Combined with his personality and effortless conversation this surely was an amiable gathering.

The author, Harry Karis, Phil Bernstein, and Olivia Bombart

Domaine de la Solitude has been around since the 17th century.  The first vintage was bottled by Paul-Clair Martin in 1815.  Twelve years later five barrels of “Vin de la Solitude” were shipped to England.  Two centuries later the Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees are still produced from the original “la Solitude” vineyard which borders La Crau.  There are more extensive holdings in Cotes du Rhone but we did not taste any of those wines.  The fruit is mostly fermented in stainless steel, Roussanne is fermented in barrel, using mostly indigenous yeasts.  Aging takes place in a mixture of stainless steel, concrete, and oak.  For further details please look at Harry’s book!

The two Traditions both showed focus with the Blanc showing a surprising amount of acidity driven character.  The Barberini Blanc reveals its additional oak but the concentrated fruit and grippy aftertaste are appealing.  Progressing from the Barberini Rouge, Cornelia Constanza, to the Reserve Secrete was a treat.  The first two smelled and tasted good but the Reserve Secrete really stepped up a notch.  It was aromatic on the nose and full of pure fruit, impeccable balance, and a haunting aftertaste.  For further details please see my short tasting notes below.

2011 Domaine de la Solitude, Tradition, Blanc, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by OSLO Enterprise.  This wine is a blend of 50% Clairette, 20% Roussanne, 20% Bourboulenc, and 10% Grenache Blanc source from ~30 year old vines.  It was aged for eight months on the lees in tank and new oak barrels for the Roussanne.  The color was a very light straw.  There was fresh white fruit, good acidity, precision, delivered with a bracing personality.  There seems to be a slight yeast and nutty aspect along with drying tannins in the finish.

2009 Domaine de la Solitude, Cuvee Barberini, Blanc, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by OSLO Enterprise.  This wine is a blend of 95% Roussanne and 5% Clairette sourced from ~35 year old vines.  It was aged nine months in on the lees in small, new oak barrels.  The color was a light, yellow straw.  The nose revealed light, ripe yellow fruit with sweet floral aromas.  In the mouth the flavors were smooth and concentrated.  The fruit was still tight with the acidity starting on the sides of the tongue.  The finish was toasty followed by a long, spiced aftertaste which was a little sappy and gripping.  Nice.

2010 Domaine de la Solitude, Tradition, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by OSLO Enterprise.  This wine is a blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre sourced from 30-55 year old vines.  It was aged for 16 months 80% tank and 20% partially new oak barrels  The color was a medium+ rather purple ruby.  The light nose was delicately scented and grapey.  In the mouth there was focused, grapey, purple fruit which stayed focused as juicy acidity came out.  I found a little underlying Mourvedre flavor.  Long finish.

2009 Domaine de la Solitude, Cuvee Barberini, Chateaneuf du Pape
Imported by OSLO Enterprise.  This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre sourced from ~55 year old vines.  It was aged for 18 months in 70% tanks and 30% new oak barrels.  The color was medium purple garnet.  The nose was lighter though interesting with aromas of darker fruit and earth.  In the mouth the blue fruit had focus with graphite, stones, and structure.  There was salivating acidity.  Drinkable now but best after a few years. Nice.

2009 Domaine de la Solitude, Cornelia Constanza, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by OSLO Enterprise.  This wine is 100% Grenache sourced from 85+ year old vines.  It was aged for 16 months  in 90% tanks and 10% new barrels.  The color was light to medium garnet.  The nose revealed dark red, brambly fruit.  In the mouth the red and blue fruit expands in the mouth as a vein of acidity moves through.  There was a racy, mineral finish followed by a long aftertaste.  This showed the most structure yet, with firm, drying tannins.  I would cellar for several years.  Nice.

2009 Domaine de la Solitude, Reserve Secrete, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by OSLO Enterprise.  This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah sourced from 55+ year old vines.  It was aged for 16 months in tanks and 30-60% new oak barrels.  The color was medium purple.  The medium strength nose was assured with grapey aromas, perfume, and black fruit.  In the mouth the flavors were somewhat tight with red and blue fruit.  There was a creamy mouthfeel as the fruit became bluer in the finish.  The structure was well-integrated.  There was a lovely, haunting and lifted aftertaste.  Very nice.