Sampling the Wines of Velenosi at MacArthur Beverages

I was recently at MacArthur Beverages when Anne Hay of Domaine Select Wine Estates and Andrea Bianco of Azienda Vitivinicola Velenosi were sampling five wines from Velenosi. Tim called me over and as this was a new producer for me I had great fun trying the wines because I rarely drink wines from the Marche region of Italy. I started with the strongest value of the bunch. The 2010 Querci Antica which was a stand out for its intense floral qualites, perhaps polarizing to some, it is one I enjoyed and a bottle I will certainly purchase. Stepping up in price the 2007 Rossio del Filare had an edge with its depth of fruit over 2007 Ludi. My quick impressions are below along with the suggested retail prices.

2010 Velenosi, Pecorino Villa Angela, Offida DOC – $19
Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. This wine is 100% Pecorino sourced from vines grown on mixed soils with sand at 200-300 meters. It is fermented then aged for five months in stainless steel. This revealed subtle sweet fruit that was a blend of tropical and citrus. After the initially rich mouth the flavors turned structured.

2010 Velenosi, Querci Antica, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba – $19
Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. This wine is 100% Lacrima di Morro d’Alba sourced from 25-year-old vines grown on mostly clay soils at 100-150 meters. The medium strength, pure nose revealed floral aromas of roses. In the mouth the youthful, bluer berry flavors met with a floral vein which carried through to the good finish leaving a remarkably fresh and floral aftertaste. I would drink this over the near term.

2008 Velenosi, Il Brecciarolo, Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC – $20
Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. This wine is a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese sourced from vines grown on mostly clay soils at 200-300 meters. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel before aging 12-18 months in 2nd and 3rd use barriques. The wine is named after the broken stones typical of the region. There was a darker, subtler nose with darker fruit in the mouth, dried spices, and barrel notes. Drinkable now or over the short-term.

2007 Velenosi, Rossio del Filare, Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC – $50
Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. This wine is a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese sourced from a special selection of vines grown on mostly clay soils at 200-300 meters. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel before aging 18 months in new French barriques. There were concentrated aromas of mixed berries on the nose. In the mouth the flavors were rich and inky with fine grapey tannins whose chewy nature coated the mouth. This needs several years of age. A good step up from the Il Brecciarolo.

2007 Velenosi, Ludi, Offida DOC – $70
Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. This wine is a blend of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot sourced from vines grown on clay with limestone soils at 200-300 meters. Harvested mid-October the fruit is fermented in stainless steel before aging for two years in new wooden barrels of various sizes. This wine reveals redder fruit and herbs with even finer grapey tannins than the Rossio del Filare. There is a hint of incense as youthful acidity coats the back of the tongue before the drying finish.

Tasting Notes Now Include Wine Ratings

Readers of this blog may have noticed that posts with formal tasting notes now include a starred rating and aging estimate. When I started the Hogshead Wine Blog I had no idea it would continue to grow in readership nor come to include so many different tasting notes. I often repurchase a wine or try it after it has aged a bit and find that I do forget just how much I liked a wine or if I really should resist pulling the cork. I am now in the habit of referring to my blog, both at home and at stores, so having this information in my posts has become quite useful. Hopefully you will find the added information helpful as well.

Over the past month I have updated all posts from 2011 with this information sourced from my notes. I am still in the process of updating posts from January 2012 but should complete the task next week. As much as I enjoy tasting wine and posting on the blog, I remind myself that I do have a day job which takes precedence over the timely updating of my posts. You may pull up posts by rating using the “Wines By Rating” widget located in the right-hand column.

I have chosen a five-star rating system. Though this is undoubtedly influenced by my early reading of Decanter Magazine and the books of Michael Broadbent, I find it is the system to which I naturally fall back on. For further information please read below. This information also appears in the About page.

Tasting Notes

We write down tasting notes for the vast majority of all wines which are encountered. Most of these encounters occur at home where we typically have two to four bottles open. With this constant rotating selection, notes for a particular wine are typically taken over a two to three-day period. We also frequently taste at one of our houses where we open six to eight bottles centered on a theme. At the end of the tasting we split up the leftover wines then retaste them the following night. All leftover wine is enclosed with a liberal dose of Private Preserve. It is from these evenings that the majority of the formal tasting notes are generated.

We also write notes when we taste wine at a restaurant, casually at a friend’s house, a wine store, or a trade tasting. We record these shorter, less formal notes because we find the impressions are still useful. These tasting notes are always accompanied by the event at which they were tasted.

The vast majority of the wines reviewed are privately purchased by the authors or their friends. A small portion of the wines are tasted at public events held by wineries, importers, and wine stores. Any published reviews that stem from public events or free samples will be clearly noted.

Rating

All formally tasted wines will be rated similar to Michael Broadbent’s scoring system where a wine may receive zero to five stars. We would drink wines receiving two stars at parties, bars, and restaurants if they are value priced. We would not hesitate to drink any wine receiving three or more stars. Most informally tasted wines will be marked by Not Rated. Wines tasted at store or trade events typically fall into this category because we do not feel comfortable rating a wine based on one or two small pours or from inadequate stemware.

*****    Outstanding     Arresting, the best, truly memorable.
****     Very Good       Makes one smile, worthy of the effort to find.
***      Good            Gives strong pleasure, good character, our daily drinkers.
**       Moderately Good An enjoyable wine appropriate for parties and meals.
*        Fair            Drinkable but no character or too many negative traits.
No Stars Poor            Flawed or undrinkable.

Parenthesis and Aging Estimates

Parenthesis signifies that a wine which is currently drinking at one level should improve to a higher level with age. For example, ***(*) signifies that a wine is currently drinking Good but with age will become Very Good. Wines that may be drunk now with pleasure will have an age estimate starting with Now. If the wine requires age then the start date signifies when it should be tried again. The stop date signifies when the plateau of drinking might end, it is an estimate of when the wine starts declining from prime drinking. These estimates should be taken lightly so you may judge if a wine may be drunk now or should be cellared and its relative longevity.

The Beautifully Colored Domaine de la Bergerie, Preambule

The La Bergerie estate was purchased in 1964 so that the Guegniard family could extend their vineyard holdings. Since 1979 Yves and his wife Marie-Agnes have managed the estate and increased it to the present size of 36 hectares.  The estate produces a large variety of wines including white, rose, red, sparkling, and sweet.  Yves has recently been joined by his daughter Anne and her husband David.  David has converted an old chai into a restaurant that features dishes which highlight the domaine’s wines.  If you are looking for a dry rose this wine is an excellent choice for a pre-dinner glass.  Jenn finds that it refreshes the palate and is not tiring to drink.  It is currently available at MacArthur Beverages.

NV Domaine de la Bergerie, Preambule, Cremant de Loire Rose – $18
Imported by Williams Corner Wines.  The gorgeous color is a vibrant ruby rose.  The nose is of fresh strawberry.  In the mouth the flavors start with delicate red fruit, dried herbs, and acidity on the tip of the tongue.  There are very fine bubbles that froth into creaminess midpalate as subtle flavors of dried floral potpourri develop.  There is dry acidity in the finish before the chalky aftertaste.  Nice.  *** Now.

Three New Wines from Mourchon

I must admit this past week has been quite exciting. Between recommending ten 2009 Petit Bordeaux for MacArthur Beverages, attending the 2010 Vintage tasting of the German Wine Society, the De Maison Selections Mini-Portfolio tasting, and Fran Kysela’s Mondovino I have been able to spend a lot of time posting about these great experiences. Without the kindness and encouragement from several people in the business this all would not have been possible. Lou and I constantly taste through a wide variety of wines but there is only so much we can afford. These larger tastings are great for our experience and for meeting other people. There are many portfolio tastings this spring so I will maintain a list of confirmed events in the right-hand column.

Domaine de Mourchon is a house favorite. Throughout the year we frequently drink the Tradition and Grande Reserve. During the warmer months we are consistently pulling corks of the Loubie Rose. In reviewing my Mourchon tasting notes you will find several notes for the Grande Reserve and only one for the Tradition. The truth is that we have drunk barrels full of Tradition and Loubie over the years for they are satisfying wines which I just want to drink instead of taking the time to write notes. The three selections featured in this post recently arrived at MacArthur Beverages. The Cotes du Rhone is a solid, serious wine at a price point which may be drunk without guilt over the next several years. The Tradition and Grande Reserve are more interesting but these cuvees require several years of age.

2010 Domaine de Mourchon, Cotes du Rhone – $10
Imported by MacArthur Beverages. This entry-level wine is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah sourced from 40-year-old vines. It was aged in concrete vats. The light nose has youthful aromas and a buttery component. In the mouth the red, buttery fruit develops a bit of lift in the finish. There is plenty of acidity mixed with grapey tannins to provide balance in this moderate weight wine. Drink now after a few hours of air or over the short-term. ** Now-2015.

2009 Domaine de Mourchon, Tradition, Cotes du Rhone Villages, Seguret – $15
Imported by MacArthur Beverages. This is a blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 10% Carignan sourced from 40-year-old vines. It was aged in concrete vats. The light nose starts off with red fruit and pepper before developing aromas of light herbs and blue fruits. In the mouth the fruit exists in a dense package with acidity and drying grapey tannins, structured for development. With air, black fruits and pencil notes develop midpalate with good dusty, dark flavors in the finish. This is showing more restraint than the 2007. **(*) 2015-2019.

2010 Domaine de Mourchon, Grande Reserve, Cotes du Rhone Villages, Seguret – $25
Imported by MacArthur Beverages. This is a blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah sourced from 60-year-old vines. For aging 60% spent time in concrete vats and 40% in oak barrels. The red fruit is more complex in the mouth with tart and subtle citrus note. The red grapefruit highlights quickly move to fine, coating and drying tannins. The tasty red fruit is balanced by plenty of acidity which offsets the fine, drying tannins. While this is a tasty wine it is still playing it tight. *** 2017-2022.

Red Wines at Fran Kysela’s Mondovino 2012

After we finished tasting the white wines we assembled yet another plate of food which we sat down to eat in the colder part of the warehouse.  The bites of food, plenty of water, and comfort from sitting down recharged us for tasting the red wines.  I must admit I was tempted to jump straight to the red Rhone wines but restraint won out so we applied ourselves in a similar manner as for the white wines.  When we did arrive at the Rhone section we tasted through quite a few wines.  I am an unabashed lover of this region and there were plenty to try at Mondovino.  Alain Jaume/Grand Veneur poured a massive array of wines, there were four red wines from Domaine de la Mordoree, several from Chateau de Segries, Domaine Johann Michel, and others.

Below you will find an edited list of over two dozen red wines notes that represent new or notable wines for me.  To pick some highlights in the affordable end of the price range you cannot go wrong this spring with the 2011 Palacio de Verano, Rioja and the 2011 Riebeek, Swartland, Pinotage which might convert many to Pinotage.

In the mid-range I liked the 2010 Manoir du Carra, Moulin a Vent, the open and inviting 2006 Vitanza, Brunello di Montalcino, Tradizione, the meaty 2005 Valsacro, Rioja, Crianza, the 2010 Domaine de la Mordoree, Lirac Rouge, La Dame Rousse, and the 2010 Grand Veneur, Cotes du Rhone Rouge, Les Champauvins.

My favorite red wines were from Chateauneuf du Pape led by the 2010 Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Vieilles Vignes. It was fabulous! Following up were the approachable 2010 Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Les Origines and the primary 2010 Domaine de la Mordoree, Chateauneuf du Pape, La Reine des Bois.  Definitely give these three wines a try, as they are out of my price range it was a treat to both taste and drink them.  I must also emphasis that as great as the Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge are you must not ignore the two Blanc from Grand Veneur.

Lou and the Author enjoying the red wines

We tasted many other red wines but after 5pm I started to slow down on my note and picture taking.  However, I continued to taste a few dozen additional wines that evening.  Of these I definitely recommend you try:

• #140 – 2010 Grand Veneur, Clos de Sixte, Lirac Rouge
• #141 – 2010 Alain Jaume, Vacqueyras Rouge, Grand Garrigue
• #152 – 2010 Clos de l’Hermitage, Cotes du Rhone Rouge
• #153 – 2010 Domaine Colline St. Jean, Vacqueyras
• #154 – 2010 Domaine Joel Champet, Cote-Rotie, La Vialliere
• #157 – 2010 Domaine Johann Michel, Cornas, Cuvee Jana
• #189 – 2005 Accordini, Amarone, Le Bessole, Classico
• #195 – 2010 Kennedy Point, Waiheke, Syrah
• #289 – 2009 Abeja, Merlot, Columbia Valley
• #290 – 2008 Abeja, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

Manoir du Carra

2010 Manoir du Carra, Beaujolais-Villages, Unfiltered – $15
This is 100% Gamay sourced from 70-100 year old vines which underwent semi-carbonic maceration, and aged for 3-4 months in foudres.  A good start with red and dark red fruits, good mouth feel, then tannins in the finish.

2010 Manoir du Carra, Julienas, Cru Beaujolais – $20
This had a mixture of red and blue fruits but I was distracted by the tannins.

2010 Manoir du Carra, Fleurie, Cru Beaujolais – $26
This had a subtle nose and in the mouth the dark, black fruit mixed with minerals before the palate was whacked by fine, drying tannins.

2010 Manoir du Carra, Moulin a Vent, Cru Beaujolais – $23
The fruit is sourced from the lieu-dit Les Burdelines where the vines are 50 years of age on manganese granite soils.  It is aged for 3-4 months in 50% foudre and 50% concrete tank.  This was quite nice with a floral, aromatic note which set it apart and possessed the best integration between fruit and tannins. Will benefit from age.

2010 Maurice Ecard, Bourgogne Rouge – $20
Produced from estate fruit it was fermented in stainless steel, underwent malolactic fermentation then aged for six months in 2-4 year old oak barrels.  This started off well with a modern profile of lightly ripe fruit but the acidity and tannins seemed a bit out of balance.

2010 Maurice Ecard, Savigny-Les-Beaune, 1er Cru Les Serpentieres – $49
Definitely a step up from the Bourgogne Rouge with its distinct note that sets it apart.  Still a bit modern and underwhelming.

Walter Bressia, Domaine Bressia

2007 Bressia, Monteagrelo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza – $27
This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged for 15 months in French and American oak.  A good solid wine with dark fruit flavors and plenty of texture.  Approachable now but the ripe tannins will age for the short-term.

2008 Bressia, Monteagrelo, Syrah, Mendoza – $27
This is 100% Syrah that was aged for 15 months in French and American oak.  With a strong perfume throughout the blue fruit flavors are delivered with plenty of texture.  Will age for the short-term.

2008 Bressia, Monteagrelo, Malbec, Mendoza – $27
This is 100% Syrah that was aged in French oak.  Quite a nice Malbec, chewy in texture, with more heft and breadth than I have recently drunk in a Malbec.

2009 Bressia, Monteagrelo, Cabernet Franc, Mendoza – $27
This is 100% Syrah that was aged in French oak.  With a strong overall similarity to the previous wines this set itself apart with a brighter red Cabernet Franc component that left the impression it was on steroids; certainly enjoyable.

2007 Bressai, Profundo, Mendoza – $40
This is a blend of 50% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Merlot and Syrah which was aged for 12 months in 50% new French and American oak.  This was a rather forward blend of dark fruits, spices, and subtler texture that may be drunk now.

2007 Bressia, Conjuro, Mendoza – $120
This is a blend of 50% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 205 Merlot aged for 18 months in new 70% French and American oak.  Requiring short-term aging the flavors are cooler with the Malbec component shinning through.  A similar mouthfeel to the earlier wines. This was dark with lots of tannins.  While it was big and needs a few years to settle down, it was hard not to swallow some.

Guido Andretta, Vitanza

2006 Vitanza, Brunello di Montalcino, Tradizione – $43
This is 100% Sangiovese produced from 11-year-old vines and was aged for 36 months in large Slovenian barrels.  Remarkably approachable and easy to drink there were cherry flavors, good weight, integrated tannins, and maturity.  Drinking well now.

2006 Vitanza, Brunello di Montalcino – $70
This is 100% Sangiovese that was aged for 36 months in 70% Slovenian and 30% French barrels.  There were blacker fruits than the Tradizione which were younger tasting, a wood note, and fine drying tannins.  This needs several years of age.

Palacio de Verano

2011 Palacio de Verano, Rioja – $13
This is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, and 5% Carignan.  This was easy-going with red, fruity flavors and completeness that make it a great quencher for the spring.

Valsacro

2005 Valsacro, Rioja, Crianza – $31
This is a blend of 50% Tempranillo, 40% Garnacha, and 10$ Marzuelo aged in French and American oak.  This was nice with its meaty, dark flavors, spices, cedar, and elegant heft.  Drinkable now or over the next several years.  This was my favorite of the Spanish wines.

Riebeek

2011 Riebeek, Swartland, Pinotage – $10
The nose was subdued so the burst of ripe, almost sweet red cherries in the mouth was a complete surprised.  The wine then subdued moderate tannins.  If someone does not like traditional Pinotage then they might like this.  Good value.

2010 Riebeek, Swartland, Cabernet Sauvignon – $9
This is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Shiraz.  Dark fruit but I preferred the Pinotage, which is all I noted.

Fabrice Delorme, Domaine de la Mordoree

2011 Domaine de la Mordoree, Cotes du Rhone Rouge, La Dame Roussie – $19
This is a blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 10% Carignan, and 5% Counoise sourced from 20-year-old vines.  A lively blend of bright, red fruit, with fine tannins.

2010 Domaine de la Mordoree, Lirac Rouge, La Dame Rousse – $24
This is a blend of 50% Grench and 50% Syrah sourced from 40-year-old vines.  This drank the best out of all the Mordoree reds with its linear black fruit which was juicy and matched by a hard, structured edge which I found appealing.  Drinking well but needs short-term aging.

2010 Domaine de la Mordoree, Lirac Rouge, La Reine des Bois – $43
This is a blend of 33% Grenache, 33% Mourvedre, and 33% Syrah sourced from 40-year-old vines and aged in oak barrels, wooden tuns, and enameled steel tanks.  The nose was muted in this tighter, concentrated wine with black fruit flavors that eventually reveal heft, fine drying tannins.  Wait at least five years before trying again.

2010 Domaine de la Mordoree, Chateauneuf du Pape, La Reine des Bois – $141
Produced from 60-year-old vines.  This was concentrated and lovely with ample perfume and blue flavors.  Quite nice the fruit stands up to the significant tannins.

Sebastien Jaume, Alain Jaume

2010 Grand Veneur, Cotes du Rhone Rouge, Les Champauvins – $25
There is a lovely consistency to this wine with its fresh, red fruit, ripe tannins, that while enjoyable now will benefit from short-term aging.

2010 Grand Veneur, Cotes du Rhone Villages, Rasteau, Les Valats – $27
This is a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre.  I found the flavors harder and red, a bit unforgiving, and not my favorite.

2009 Alain Jaume, Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Terron – $45
This is a blend of 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre.  A very approachable wine with dark red fruit, spices, pleasing nature.  I would cellar this for the short-term before trying again.

2010 Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge – $53
This is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre.  Black fruit mixed with cherry, spices, good mouthfeel, and array of flavors.  The fruit stands up to the fine tannins.

2010 Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Les Origines – $70
A definitely step up from the previous CdP with good quality red fruit, expansive mouthfeel before turning bluer with garrigue notes.  As the fruit finishes ample, fine tannins come out but everything is balanced for long aging.  A really lovely wine.

2010 Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Vieilles Vignes – $121
This is a blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, and 10% Syrah sourced from 50-100 year old vines and aged for 18 months in oak barrels.  As if Les Origines was not outstanding the Vieilles Vignes ratchets it up with lovely, lifted blue and black fruits which are mouthfilling with a smooth presence.  There is incense and a finely detailed finish and aftertaste.  Fabulous wine.

White Wines at Fran Kysela’s Mondovino 2012

The New Kysela Warehouse

I was excited when I received an invitation from Jeremy to attend the Kysela Pere et Fils Mondovino 2012.  Located at Fran Kysela’s new warehouse in Winchester, Virginia this annual portfolio tasting is repeated on two, five-hour days. There were over 300 wines being poured at all prices.  Though the new warehouse easily absorbed over the several hundred people, the bottles of wine completely covered the tremendous number of tables so we came up with plan for tasting and writing notes.  Armed with a proper wine glass, spit cup, and notebooks we decided to start with Champagne then work our way through the white wines in an order progressing through  increasingly richer/bigger style.  Upon satisfaction we would then work through the red wines.  We quickly decided to not even attempt tasting everything.  Lou suggested the pattern we followed all afternoon of trying several wines then jotting down our notes.  So my notes might be briefer than usual but logistically this worked the best.

Mondovino In Full Swing

There was a constantly replenished supply of food at various stations which we used to fortify ourselves.  As thoroughly as we tasted through the wines we also ate through the food.  There were over six different types of freshly shucked oysters, freshly grilled venison and pheasant, fried frogs legs, freshly sautéed wild mushrooms, and over 30 cheeses.  If you are attending the upcoming tasting then be sure to arrive hungry.

I have included 25 notes focusing on the producers and regions I enjoyed the most.  Of the Roland Champion Champagnes I particularly enjoyed the Brut, Blanc de Blancs for current drinking.  Of the white wines the 2009 Guillemot-Michel, Macon-Villages, Quintaine, 2010 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuisse, Vignes Blanches, the two Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape Blancs, and the Mullineux, White Blend provided great pleasure.  At the end of the tasting I refreshed myself with a glass of Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc!  My next post will focus on the red wines I tasted at this event.

Roland Champion

NV Roland Champion, Brut, Rose, Chouilly Grand Cru – $58
This is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, and 20% Chardonnay with 70% from the 2007 vintage and 30% from 2006.  The color results from the addition of 15% red wine from Verneuil vineyard at least 4 years old.  Thought a light salmon/rose color one would not guess this as a typical rose based on the nose.  There were subtle, dark red flavors with some yeast and a generally lively personality.

NV Roland Champion, Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Chouilly Grand Cru – $54
This is 100% Chardonnay which was aged for 30 months and is a blend of 2005, 2006, and 2007 vintages.  It was recently disgorged.  Very forward, nice wine with a touch of ripe green apple, subtle yeast, and satisfying weight.

2003 Roland Champion, Blanc de Blancs, Chouilly Grand Cru – $66
This is 100% Chardonnay which was recently disgorged.  More subtle in flavors and bubbles than the previous wine with quite nice flavors of apples and a good mineral note.

2004 Roland Champion, Special Club, Chouilly Grand Cru – $80
This is 100% Chardonnay which was recently disgorged.  This revealed tart fruit, yeasty rich flavors, plenty of acidity, and is clearly young.  Very easy to drink.

Corinne Perchaud

2009 Corinne Perchaud, Chablis, AOC – $25
This was produced from vines averaging 25 years of age.  There was a light nose with hints of ripe, buttery fruit.  In the mouth this smooth wine had ripe fruit with chalk notes.

2009 Corinne Perchaud, Chablis, 1er Cru, Vaucoupin – $35
This was produced from vines averaging 35 years of age.  The nose was subtler and darker than the AOC with plenty of fresh fruit flavors, green apple, lots of acidity, and a mineral note.

Sancerre, Muscadet, Puilly-Fume

2011 Jean Reverdy, Sancerre Blanc, La Reine Blanche – $26
This is 100% Sauvignon Blanc sourced from a single vineyard.  A  lighter nose with very grassy aromatics.  Too much for me and quite different from the 2010 I tried at MacArthur Beverages.

2011 Domaine Michel Thomas, Sancerre, Blanc – $27
This is produced from parcels in 40% Cailottes, 40% Grosses Terres, and 20% Silex.  Darker and rich, it shows good restraint with lighter fruit and citrus acidity.

2010 Domaine Michel Thomas, Sancerre, Blanc, Silex – $33
This Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from the Silex parcel.  A nice gritty nose, a bit lifted, good fun!

2010 Domaine Tinel-Blondelet, Pouilly-Fume, Genetin - $26
Produced from 25-year-old vines located on limestone soils.  Bracing stuff, the acidity is intense mixing with some citrus notes.

2009 Domaine de l’Ecu, Muscadet, Expression de Gneiss, Sur Lie – $20
This is 100% Melon de Bourgogne.  The light, flinty nose makes way to ample minerals in the mouth.  Light and lithe.

Macon-Villages

2009 Guillemot-Michel, Macon-Villages, Quintaine – $33
This is 100% Chardonnay which saw malolactic fermentation.  I rather liked this wine with is rich, more ripe fruit, expansive flavors, quite nice.

2010 Saumaize-Michelin, Macon-Villages – $27
This was fermented and raised in 100% wood.  This was much different from the Guillemot-Michel with its more linear firmness and acidity.

Saumaize-Michelin

2009 Michel Delorme, Pouilly-Fuisse, Vieilles Vignes – $30
This is produced from 80-year-old vines which were fermented in 10% new oak barrels.  There were good flavors, linear delivery, and a nice aftertaste.

2010 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuisse, Pentacrine – $43
This was crisp with tart fruit, a lactic note, and acidity.  My least favorite of the four Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuisse.

2010 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuisse, Vignes Blanches- $39
There was crunchy acidity which grabbed the tongue from the beginning, lifted, nice wine to drink right now.

2010 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuisse, Clos sur la Roche- $43
The flavors tilted towards green apple with a little less texture to the acidity, some tannins in the finish.  Nice, could use a year of age.

2010 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuisse, Ronchevats- $50
This had a subdued, darker nose with apple flavors that were young and tight.  There was an initial impression of some new wood.  Could use some age.

White Rhones

2011 Grand Veneur, Cotes du Rhone Blanc Reserve – $15
This is a blend of 50% Roussane, 40% Viognier, and 10% Clairette.  Quite drinkable with its upfront, ripe white fruit.  Good value for the price.

2011 Grand Veneur, Cotes du Rhone, Blanc de Viognier – $25
This is 100% Viognier.  Leaner with more acidity and a floral note.  This did not grab my attention.

2011 Grand Veneur, Chateaneuf du Pape Blanc – $47
This is 60% Clairette and 40% Roussane.  There was a lovely presence on the tongue with mouthfilling flavors of whiter fruit, sweet florals, and a long aftertaste.  I drank a glass of this while we were waiting for dinner and it refreshed my palate.

2010 Grand Veneur, Chateaneuf du Pape Blanc, La Fontaine – $70
This is 100% Roussane.  With a more subdued nature this had a strong, pure nose and palate of clove and nutmeg throughout with a long lasting aftertaste.  The yellower fruit had good weight.  Lovely stuff.

2011 Domaine de la Mordoree, Lirac Blanc, La Reine des Bois – $40
This is a blend of 30% Grenache, 15% Viognier, 15% Roussanne, 10% Marsanne, 10% Picpoul, 10% Clairette, and 10% Bourboulenc sourced from 30-year-old vines of which 25% was barrel fermented.  The hard flavors were young, clearly in need of age, but there was good body with a floral perfumed finish.  I would be curious to try this after several years of age.

Chenin Blanc

2011 Kloof Street, Chenin Blanc, Swartland – $20
This is 100% Chenin Blanc sourced from 29 and 40-year-old parcels with 80% tank and 20% old-wood fermented.  Dark and lively with an obvious wood component.

2010 Mullineux, White Blend, Swartland – $28
This is a blend of 80% Chenin Blanc, 10% Clairette Blanche, and 10% Viognier which was fermented and aged for 12 months in old French barrels.  Lots of flavors with good acidity, finely textured finish, and spices in the aftertaste.  Well done.  May be drunk for several years.

The Happy Author with a glass of Grand Veneur CdP Blanc

Two That Slipped Through the Cracks

We have been drinking these two selections over the last year, literally drinking as opposed to reflecting for a bit in order to write down a note.  I really like the L’Argentier because it reveals its unique personality through a strong perfume.  While this may not be to everyone’s liking, if you follow the wines that Jenn and I like on this blog, then you will enjoy this bottle.  The Bouissiere has been a favorite for a while with the 2007 reveling in the ripeness of the vintage without losing its minerality and spices.  This bottle underperformed but based on previous experiences I still recommend you try.  Actually, I recommend you try both wines.  I am particularly curious to read about your impressions of the L’Argentier.  Both of these wines are currently available at MacArthur Beverages.

2007 L’Argentier, Vieilles Vignes de Carignan, VdP du Gard - $17
Imported by Oslo Enterprises.  This wine is 100% Carignan sourced from a vineyard planted in 1935.  There is an earthy nose of high-toned red fruit.  In the mouth there are red fruits which morph into black fruit with the mouth following the nose. This medium bodied wine has a gentle presence, and a unique old-vine perfume.  While it is not that complex there is good depth and a strong personality.  Jenn found it still closed and not yet at its full potential.  *** Now-2017.

2007 Domaine la Bouissiere, Vacqueyras – $22
Imported by Dionysos Imports. This is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre.  There is a light+ nose of ripe fruit and herbs.  In the mouth the ripe red and blue fruit has a slick prickle before turning bluer in nature.  A bit of incense mixes with minerals and a wood note that bears a touch of cedar.  With air a sweet spice develops with a bit of wildness and a fine, sandy texture in the finish.  I must admit this bottle showed some heat.  While I have not experienced before it was a bit distracting in this bottle.  Hence the lower rating.  ** Now-2017.

The 2010 Vintage Tasting of the German Wine Society

The Harbor Square Club Room

Last week I attended the 2010 Vintage Tasting of the German Wine Society, DC Chapter. Long-time member Dave Wendler organized the tasting which was tutored by Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages. It was hosted by Marilyn at the National Harbor Club Room. Phil presented 10 different wines, all of which are available at MacArthur Beverages, from the unusual 2010 vintage. The combination of extremely high acidity and sugar levels has not been seen before. While 1996 also had extremely high acidity levels, it did not have the sugar levels. This has resulted in many wines being deacidified. In addition, yields ran 30-50% below normal so it was a truly a small amount of wine to go around. Phil commented that this was a clean vintage with low botrytis. As a general observation I felt the flavors tilted towards fresh, white and green fruits. My two favorite wines of the evenings were the gorgeous 2010 Egon Mulller, Scharzhofberger, Riesling Kabinett followed by the 2010 Donnhoff, Kreuznacher Leistenberg, Riesling Kabinett. While the Egon Muller is somewhat pricey yet worthwhile $55, the Donnhoff is $25 which is a great price for such a lovely wine.

Serious Sign But A Fun Tasting!

The wines were opened a few hours ahead of time and served in flights of two. I have included a summary of Phil’s comments for each flight along with my brief tasting notes. Thanks again to Dave and Laura, along with all of their friends at their table for making me feel welcome. I certainly enjoyed hearing Phil speak and I look forward to his future tastings.

Phil

Affordable Qualitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA)

These are two introductory wines by very good producers. The Dr. Loosen is made entirely from purchased fruit. While St. Urbans Hof make an introductory purchased-fruit wine, this selection is a step up being made from estate fruit. Both of these are strong values and represent safe, affordable selections at restaurants and stores.

2010 Dr.Loosen, Dr. L, Riesling Qba, Mosel – $11
Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. This was more aromatic than the St. Urbans Hof with a floral ripe nose. In the mouth the structured fruit was fresh, fruity, and finished with a sandy texture.

2010 St. Urbans Hof, Riesling Qba, Mosel – $15
Imported by HB Wine Merchants. Produced from estate fruit. This was a touch more yellow than the Dr. Loosen. A mineral nose. The initially ripe fruit softened to tart flavors, and an aftertaste of little drying tannins and minerals.

Kabinett from the great Donnhoff estate

One of the great estates of the world and a favorite of Dave. If one selection from Donnhoff is good than two is better! Donnhoff acquired the Kroptenpfuhl vineyard from the Anheuser family several years. Through replanting and other efforts this vineyard is under restoration and Phil expects that these wines will only get better with each successive vintage. Phil also believe that the Nahe is an exciting region that combines the best characteristics of the Mosel and Rheingau.

2010 Donnhoff, Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl, Riesling Kabinett , Nahe- $25
A Terry Theise Estate Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. This vineyard was acquired three years ago. A softer nose. In the mouth racy fruit, textured acidity with tropical flavors in the finish. The aftertaste is great with tart flavors and a light mineral note.

2010 Donnhoff, Kreuznacher Leistenberg, Riesling Kabinett, Nahe – $25
A Terry Theise Estate Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. The nose was lifted and gritty. The flavors were very lively on the tongue with mouthfilling flavors which coated the inside of my lips. There is a great presence to this wine with its incense notes, floral and ripe fruit, spices, and low-level acidity that makes one salivate. Showing really well.

Two Kabinetts from the Mosel

The Saar is a very cool region that naturally produces wines high in acidity which age very well. A.J. Adam is a young, enthusiastic producer who makes wines from very steep vineyards. The Egon Muller selection comes from the famous Scharzhofberger vineyard. With impeccable pedigree Phil felt this would age for 20 years.

2010 A. J. Adam, Dhron Hofberg, Riesling Kabinett, Mosel – $32
A Terry Theise Estate Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. This show focused fruit, petrol underneath, with the acidity initially starting at the tip of the tongue. There was a gentle spiced sweetness. There were drying tannins in the mouth with a gentle aftertaste.

2010 Egon Mulller, Scharzhofberger, Riesling Kabinett, Mosel – $55
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons. The lighter nose contained drier aromas. The flavors almost prickled the tongue at first before beautiful, glycerine body developed. There was a light vein of stones in this mouthfilling wine with a persistent aftertaste. Clearly young but so beautiful, this was my favorite of the night.

The Brothers Fritz and Thomas Haag

This pairing showcases two different wines made by the brothers Fritz Haag and Thomas Haag at Schloss Lieser. What was particularly fun is that the fruit is sourced from different parcels of the same vineyard. Not only were the flavors different but the acidity level was remarkably different with the Fritz Haag tasting de-acidified.

2010 Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr, Riesling Spatlese, Mosel – $45
Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International. A yellower color than the Schloss Lieser. This revealed dark fruit that quickly rounded out with less acidity and just a touch of texture. It was almost cloying.

2010 Schloss Lieser, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr, Riesling Spatlese, Mosel – $30
Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International. This was more overt with lively white fruit and ripe notes that bubbled on the tongue. I preferred this over the Fritz Haag with its ample acidity which remained on the lips with a sweet-tart profile.

Two Auslese

These two Auslese were quite different. The Monchhof will be best for earlier drinking and will probably not age long. The Selbach Oster remained tight and should age for some time. Pralat is the tenderloin of Erdener Treppchen with Monchof owning the largest portion. Phil commented that he often found cherry flavors in the wines of Erdener Treppchen.

2010 Monchhof, Erdener Pralat, Riesling Auslese, Mosel – $38
Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International. With good up front texture, the fruit was sweeter and tight, with caramelized notes, perfume, and unctuous tropical flavors that while good were a touch heavy. Very young.

2010 Selbach Oster, Bernkasteler Badstube, Riesling Auslese, Mosel – $40
This revealed textured ripe fruit, plenty of acidity which mixed well with the fruit, lively in the mouth, a tart midpalate. Young and less distinct in its flavors this will clearly age. I rather liked the liveliness.

Dave and Phil with Scharzhofberger

The Engaging Wines of De Maison Selections

Cork Market and Tasting Room

This past week I was able to attend the De Maison Selections Mini-Portfolio show hosted by Bacchus Importers at the Cork Market & Tasting Room.  De Maison Selections was founded by Andre Tamers in 1996 focusing on unique wines from Spain and France.  I have enjoyed many of their wines from such producers as D. Ventura, Dominio de Bibei, and Bodegas Ostatu.  So I was quite excited to be introduced to Andre and Steven Alexander.  Andre has an infectious enthusiasm for wine.  On this tour he brought three winery owners who both grow their own grapes and produce their own wines.  I found that many of the wines were quite satisfying and enjoyable to drink.  I particularly liked the Do Ferriero and Amazade Albarinos, the 2010 Sastre, Tinto and 2009 Sastre, Crianza, and the 2008 Luberri, Seis and Biga.  I would be very happy to sit down to drink these wines as I would to share a few bottles with Andre and Steven.

In addition to the wines of these three wineries, there was a fourth table with additional selections.  As my parking meter was about to expire I briefly tasted through some of these wines.  I particularly liked, to no surprise, the 2009 D. Ventura, Caneiro and the 2007 Dominio de Beibei, Lalama.  I will certainly followed up with additional posts once I acquire some of these wines.  In the mean time I highly recommend that you try any of the wines from De Maison Selections, chances are, you will smile as you drink them.

Gerardo Mendez, Do Ferreiro, Rias Baixas

Founded in 1973 Do Ferreiro is run by Gerardo Mendez. Consisting of five hectares of vines, three are over 50 years old, and one is over 200 years old!!  Gerardo incorporates both traditional and modern method and technology.  The Amizade wines are a collaborative project between Do Ferreiro and De Masion Selections.  Gerardo follows organic principles and only uses indigenous yeasts.

Gerardo Mendez

2010 Amizade, Godello, Monterrei
This is 100% Godello sourced from 15-20 year old vines grown on sand and slate soils.  The fruit was fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel with indigenous yeasts before aging six months on the lees.  There was a gritty nose with fresh acidity.  Gritty in the mouth with minerals and a nice aftertaste.  Quite enjoyable.  Not Rated.

2010 Do Ferreiro, Rebisaca, Albarino, Rias Baixas
This is a blend of 85% Albarino and 15% Treixadura sourced from granite sand and alluvial soils.  The wine was fermented using indigenous yeasts and aged for nine months on the lees.  The subdued nose revealed more tropical aromas.  In the mouth there were tart melons, nice texture, and a fruity aftertaste.  Not Rated.

2010 Do Ferreiro, Albarino, Rias Baixas
This is 100% Albarino sourced from 15-50 year old vines located on granite sand.  It was fermented in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts.  The flavors tilted towards green fruits with pebbly texture, lively on the tongue, and good aftertaste.  Not Rated.

2010 Do Ferreiro, Cepas Vellas, Albarino, Rias Baixas
This  is 100% Albarino sourced from 200+ year old vines located on granite sand.  It was fermented in stainless steel using native yeasts and aged for 11 months on the lees.  Subtle ripe fruit, chalky, fresh acidity, and pervasive flavors in the aftertaste.  Not Rated.

2010 Amizade, Mencia, Monterrei
This is mostly Mencia with a bit of Caino and Aruxa sourced from 15-20 year old vines grown on sand and slate soils.  The fruit was fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel with indigenous yeasts before aging six months on the lees. This started with buttery notes then dark red fruit.  In the mouth the fruit bursts then become dark red midpalate with citrus-like acidity and fine, sandy tannins.  Not Rated.

Jesus Sastre, Vina Sastra, Ribera del Duero

Jesus Sastre has run the winery for the last decade since the death of his brother Pedro. With two vineyard sites inherited from their father, he is able to produce wine from very old vines.  Jesus follows both organic and biodynamic principles.  He only uses indigenous yeasts for fermentation.

Jesus Sastre

2009 Sastre, Tinto, Ribera del Duero
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 15-20 year old vines grown on clay and chalk soils.  The wine was aged for seven months in 2-year-old American oak barrels.  There were some red fruit and floral aromas.  In the mouth light flavors of tart red fruit, creamy midpalate with dried herbs in the finish, fine grapey tannins, and a lightly spiced aftertaste.  Delicious and strong value.  Not Rated.

2010 Sastre, Tinto, Ribera del Duero
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 15-20 year old vines grown on clay and chalk soils.  The wine was aged for seven months in 2-year-old American oak barrels. The nose was more intense than the 2009 with tart, brambly red fruit, a little spicy before dark brambly flavors in the aftertaste.  Good power, a nice wine.  Not Rated.

2008, Crianza, Ribera del Duero
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 20-65 year old vines grown on clay and chalk soil.  It was aged in 100% new French oak.  Darker and less ripe than the Tintos.  Showing more structure and fine tannins for aging.  Not Rated.

2009 Crianza, Riber del Duero
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 20-65 year old vines grown on clay and chalk soil.  It was aged in 100% new French oak.  This  was racy from the beginning as flavors jump out that are red and black, brambly with spices.  The aftertaste sports fine tannins and a persistent spice note.  Yum.  Not Rated.

2009, Pago di Santa Cruz, Ribera del Duero
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 65+ year old vines grown on clay and chalk soil.  It was aged for 18 months in 100% new American oak.  This had a light nose of incense and lipstick.  This medium weight wine had dark perfume, very fine tannins that are drying but balanced by the fruit and acidity.  There is strength but it is not overly powerful.  Not Rated.

Florentino Monje Luberri, Rioja Alvesa

Florentino Monje was the original winemaker at Artadi before he established Luberri in 1992. He owns 35 hectares of old vines.

Florentino Monje

2011 Luberri, Orlegi, Rioja
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 15-25 year old vines grown on poor, chalky clay soils.  It was fermented in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts.  This was a great start with buttery, creamy nose of violets and darker red fruit aromas.  In the mouth there were medium ripe fruit which followed the nose.  It was juicy, with good grip in the finish,  and a powdery texture to the tannins in the aftertaste.  Well done.  Not Rated.

2008 Luberri, Seis, Rioja
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 15-25 year old vines grown on poor, chalky clay soils.  It was fermented in stainless steel then aged for six months in French and American oak.  This had brambly red fruit and was very fresh, driven by acidity with a red citrus tartness.  There was grip and a bit of spice in the finish.  Not Rated.

2007 Luberri, Biga, Crianza, Rioja
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 40+ year old vines grown on bedrock.  It was fermented in stainless steel then aged for one year in French and American oak.  The dark nose was more haunting than the other wines.  The dark red flavors were almost racy, subtle with integrated tannins.  Not Rated.

2008 Luberri, Biga, Crianza, Rioja
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 40+ year old vines grown on bedrock.  It was fermented in stainless steel then aged for one year in French and American oak.  A dark nose with more floral aspects than the 2008.  Lively on the tongue, dark red notes, more fine drying tannins than the 2007.  Racy and needs age.  Not Rated.

2005 Luberri, M.A., Reserva, Rioja
This is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 50 year old vines grown on chalky clay soils.  It was fermented in stainless steel then aged for 16 months in French and American oak.  The red fruit jumps on to the tongue with a wood undertone, fine tannins with good acidity.  The flavors in the mouth follow the nose.  Not Rated.

I Recommend Bottles of Bordeaux

I was thrilled when MacArthur Beverages asked me to recommend some Bordeaux.  Priced from $11 to $24 I have come up with a list of wines that range from modern to classic, some of which may be drunk now and others that should be cellared.  Please check out the MacArthur Beverages website for my 10 selections of 2009 Petit Bordeaux.  Grab several bottles, invite several friends over, and throw yourself an affordable tasting!