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I mistake Oregon Pinot Noir for Spatburgunder
Lou asked me to bring just one bottle to a blind Pinot Noir themed tasting. The weather was temperate so we started off with 2009 Pichler-Krutzler, Gruner Veltliner, Frauengarten, Wachau while we moved our food, bottles, and glasses outside. Made by the son-in-law and daughter of F. X. Pichler this bottle has killer aromas that alone warrant opening a bottle. I guess Gruner can age!
All of the wines were brown bagged save the 1983 Prince Florent de Merode, Corton Clos du Roi. The cork fell in when Lou stood it up so we tried it out of curiosity. Proper bottles are probably good.
The first blind wine was certainly of an earlier generation. Schug Winery was founded in 1980 by Walter Schug who was the founding winemaker at Phelps in the 1970s. The 1981 Schug Cellars, Pinot Noir, Napa Valley is an early example of his efforts which will continue to last for many years thanks to the impressive structure. It is a bit curious but still a respectable glass of wine. Much younger and in complete contrast the 2002 Cameron, Clos Electrique offers impressive amounts of sweet, strawberry compote flavors. This bottle is in peak shape and prime drinking.
In retrospect the 2007 Albert Morot, Beaune Toussaints 1er Cru is clearly French with its aromas. There is a bit of everything but the linear personality restrains the pleasure. The 2006 Antica Terra, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley is in taller bottle but I mistook it for Austrian Spatburgunder due to the plentiful, bright fruit. It continued to evolve, gaining complexity even on the second night. Also from Oregon, the 2005 St. Innocent, Pinot Noir, Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley is the youngest of all the wines we tasted. It reminds me of an Oregon Pinot Noir, in my limited experience, and suggest you wait a bit longer in case it relaxes.
Thanks again to Lou for such a fun evening!
2009 Pichler-Krutzler, Gruner Veltliner, Frauengarten, Wachau
Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. This is 100% Gruner Veltliner from 15-35 year old vines, fermented and aged on the lees in stainless steel. Alcohol 12.5%. The light golden color does not suggest the excellent nose full of textured aromas. In the mouth there is a focused, almost crisp start with white fruit, chalk, and stones by the middle. There is a nice amount of acidity in this mature wine. With air it develops nutty flavors and sports a moderate amount of weight from nuts and fat. ***(*) Now – 2020.
1983 Prince Florent de Merode, Corton Clos du Roi
Imported by Robert Haas. The cork fell in when the bottle was stood up leaving a stinky nose but surprisingly round, sweet fruit in the mouth. Not Rated.
A) 1981 Schug Cellars, Pinot Noir, Napa Valley
This smells mature with a hint of menthol. In the mouth is up-front dense fruit flavors followed by a wintergreen freshness and perfumed aftertaste. What is striking is the whopping structure of drying tannins which seems like a combination of stem inclusion and oak. On the second night it remains firm with tangy red fruit and of course the structure. ** Now-2027.
B) 2002 Cameron, Clos Electrique
Alcohol 13.3%. The nose is quite mature. In the mouth are quickly building flavors of sweet strawberry compote. The quantity and quality of fruit is excellent and in great shape. This is matched by juicy acidity and a little spicy hint in the softer finish. Good bottle. ***(*) Now – 2019.
2007 Albert Morot, Beaune Toussaints 1er Cru
Imported by Robert Kacher. Alcohol 12%. Some sweet aromas, oak, mushrooms, and a touch of earth. With air there is a wood incense note. The mouth reveals dark red fruit, watery acidity, and a tight core of black fruit leaving a linear impression. It eventually sports some grip and a little cola and spice note. It remains firm. **(*) Now – 2023.
2) 2006 Antica Terra, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Alcohol 14.4%. The darker and younger looking in color. The interesting, ample nose is very fresh and clean. In the mouth are gobs of fruit flavors that slowly open to reveal ripe, complex flavors. Substantial in a way but not heavy at all thanks to the brightness. The acidity is perfectly balanced. The flavors persist in the aftertaste. **** Now – 2027.
3) 2005 St. Innocent, Pinot Noir, Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley
Alcohol 14%. This is a light grapey red color. In the mouth are controlled flavors of ripe and perfumed black fruit. Fine tannins develop by the finish as does a bitter, citrus note. This tastes the youngest of all the wines and with extended air remains structured compared to the Antica Terra. *** Now – 2025.
Tasting South African Wines with Lou
Lou came over last week to taste a selection of South African wines with Jenn and myself. We usually alternate houses for our mid-week tastings but his situation is a bit chaotic due to his current expansion. As I recently saw , both his kitchen and dinning room have been relocated into his living room. An odd sight but quite convenient. If you think that all we ever do together is drink wine, eat cheese, and eat salami then you are correct. We both love wine and spend significant amounts of our free time buying, tasting, reading, and writing about wine. While I now write posts for this blog Lou writes in his journals.
We did not take a group ranking. The Vilafonte and Boekenhoutskloof were distinctly different from the other four wines so of these two I would rank them:
- 2007 Boekenhoutskloof, Syrah
- 2006 Vilafonte, Series M
Of the remaining four wines I would place the 2002’s on top. Lou tried the Camberley on the third night and found it “pretty shot”, shame!
- 2002 Camberley, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
- 2002 Kanonkop, Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2005 Kanonkop, Paul Sauer
- 2003 Rudi Schultz, Syrah
The Camberley was purchased from Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar in Cape Town and the remaining wines were purchased from MacArthur’s over the last year or so. As always the wines were double-decanted then served blind. The leftovers were split up, injected with Private Preserve, then retasted later. We started with the Salomon, which I realize is an odd choice, but as Jenn does not like Riesling, I wanted to share the bottle with Lou. I have listed the wines in the order that we tasted them.
Starter – 2006 Salomon, Riesling Pfaffenberg
This wine is 100% Riesling from vines grown on gneiss and granite. This wine was a golden color. It had a honey-like nose that was soft with notes of yeast. In the mouth there were soft flavors of apple, stones, and a nice mid-palate texture that went with the tree-fruit acidity. It was balanced. *** Now-2015.
1 – 2006 Vilafonte, Series M
This wine is a blend of 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 14% Malbec, and 3% Cabernet Franc. The wine was fermented with 50% natural yeast and 50% inoculated then aged for 18 months in French oak barrels. This stood out with its distinct profile. The nice mouthfeel was creamy with fruit, minerality, and vanilla notes. It was refreshing to drink, “mint” according to Lou, with resolved tannins and a creamy finish. On the second night this modern wine was young in profile with tart and bright fruit, minerals, spicy, and hints of coconuts. ***(*) Now-2017.
2 – 2002 Camberley, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Stellenbosch
Lou purchased this for 90 Rand at Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar in Cape Town. This wine is a blend of three-quarters Cabernet Sauvignon and one-quarter Merlot. The fruit was sourced from eight year old vines with the wine aged for 14 months in 60% new French, Russian, and American oak. It was obvious that this was a mature wine with its medium strength nose of older aromas. The soft flavors were savory with notes of barrel toast. Mature with a rich body, this was a well made wine. On the second night the nose took on mint while the body maintained its plumpness and good texture. *** Now.
3 – 2005 Kanonkop, Paul Sauer, Stellenbosch
The Paul Sauer is a blend of approximately 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Merlot that is aged for 22-26 months in new French oak barrels. It had the lightest nose of these first three wines. Though light, it was appealing with dry dusty herbs that contained a Lavender aroma. In the mouth it had green pepper, the most acidity, and a slight, tannic aftertaste of barrel influences. It left a chalky impression and was “medicinal” to Jenn. On the second night it was a bit strange with a prickly introduction followed by spice, an ethereal medicinal midpalate, and some heat. Definitely out of whack. Not Rated.
4 – 2007 Boekenhoutskloof, Syrah
This was the second distinctive wine. This wine is 100% Syrah from a specific parcel located on decomposed granite. The vines were planted in 1993. The grapes were fermented with natural yeast then aged for 23 months in barrel. The nose was markedly different with a young Syrah notes and fresh grit that jumps into one’s nose. Rich in the mouth with red currant, a savory character, and some clean, jammy fruit. The aftertaste is inky with mint and sweet cream. On the second night the wine still stood out and had continued to develop over the previous night. While the nose was simpler the flavors in the mouth continued to change. ***(*) Now-2017.
5 – 2003 Rudi Schultz, Syrah, Stellenbosch
This wine is 100% Syrah from a single vineyard located on a granite base with coarse sand on gravel and some wet clay. The grapes were fermented with natural yeast then aged for 20 months in 30% new French oak barrels. This was simpler in flavor with fresh, red fruit that was smooth in the mouth and delicately mixed with garrigue. A mature, modern wine with flavors that drop off as the aftertaste is approached. On the second night, there is a delicate nose of herbs. The somewhat mature flavors mix with vegetables, “earthy straw flavors” according to Jenn, then the wine thins out becoming simpler with hard blue flavors. * Now.
6 – 2002 Kanonkop, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch
This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 22-26 months in new and second-fill French oak barrels. It started off with a medium-strength dirty nose with a green vein. In the mouth the initial fruit was youthful then turned older and spicy when it mixed with old perfume. It felt disjointed. On the second night Jenn found “kiwi skin nose”, a bit of roast, more astringent red fruit, dry herbs, coarse tannins, and some heat. ** Now.