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Casual notes on four Sicilian red wines
A few weeks ago we were joined by another family for a late afternoon gathering. The kids played while we tasted through a selection of Sicilian wines. It was a casual evening so I only jotted down brief impressions. To cut to the chase, the 2014 Tenuta Delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso must be the most forward and generous vintage yet. It is a fruity, affordable wine from Etna to drink right now for our bottle seemed tired by the end of the evening. Still, it made for an enjoyable drink while we waited for the other bottles to come around. Whereas the 2013 COS, Pithos, Vittoria Rosso remained distractingly tannic and the 2013 Tenuta da Aglaea, Aglaea, Etna too simple, the 2013 Tenuta da Aglaea, Talia, Etna surprised us all. After 3-4 hours it became aromatic with an elegant style of complexity that had us all proclaiming it as our favorite as we then rapidly drained the bottle. These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.
2013 COS, Pithos, Vittoria Rosso – $34
Imported by Domaine Select Wines. This wine is a blend of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. It is fermented in terracotta amphora of 250 and 400 liter capacities. The fermentation is allowed to take its own course so there is no temperature control and it typically lasts for seven months. Alcohol 12%. The somewhat floral nose is followed by tart red fruit and a wall of very fine tannins. It remained distractingly tannic, even with extended air, leaving the impression the structure will outlast the fruit. *(*) 2020? – 2026?
2014 Tenuta Delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso – $17
Imported by deGrazia Imports. This wine is a blend of 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio sourced from 5-50 year old vines on volcanic soils. It was fermented then aged for 11 months in large French oak barrels then aged a further month in stainless steel. Alcohol 14%. Generous flavors of ripe red fruit tastes young in nature. Perhaps the most forward vintage yet it drinks well from the very first glass with supporting acidity and tannins. ** Now.
2013 Tenuta da Aglaea, Talia, Etna – $26
Imported by Simon N Cellars. This wine is 100% Nerello Mascalese sourced from 40-50 year old vines planted on volcanic ash soil located at 2250 feet in elevation. It was aged for 8 months in old oak barrels. Alcohol 13.5%. After several hours of air the nose became very aromatic with floral and herb aromas. In the mouth were fine, red and black fruit flavors with a vein of lively acidity. The complexity and depth for aging is there but requires hours to come out. *** 2018 – 2024.
2013 Tenuta da Aglaea, Aglaea, Etna – $18
Imported by Simon N Cellars. This wine is 100% Nerello Mascalese sourced from 10-30 year old vines planted on volcanic ash soil located at 2250 feet in elevation. Alcohol 13%. Brighter, more acidity, and simpler than the other bottling. *(*) Now – 2017.
From Frappato to Nebbiolo
This is just a quick post as I have more house sale and moving tasks to attend to today. My two favorite wines in today’s post are both from the 2009 vintage in Italy. The 2009 Carminucci, Naumachos, Rosso Piceno Superiore has taken on attractive maturity but still offers ripe fruit, texture, and a hint of minerals. It drinks great right now and I suspect if you are a fan of the Southern Rhone you will dig this wine. I will buy more and so should you! The 2009 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo, Agamium, Colline Novaresi is an attractive, mature wine made from Nebbiolo. It is not terribly complex but strikes a good balance between maturity, interest, and price. I like Frappato and was very much looking forward to the 2013 Paolo Cali, Mandragola, Vittoria Frappato. It smelled good but I was too distracted by the elevated level of carbon dioxide to enjoy it. These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.
2009 Carminucci, Naumachos, Rosso Piceno Superiore – $18
Imported by Verity Wine Partners. This wine is a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese that was aged in French oak. Alcohol 14%. There were aromas of ripe fruit, cedar, and mature notes. In the mouth were focused flavors of ripe black and blue fruit that had attractive texture and density. The maturity was evident in the middle. The texture continued through the wine as a hint of minerals, a little smoke, and creamy blue fruit wrapped things up. Drinking well. *** Now-2018.
2009 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo, Agamium, Colline Novaresi – $20
Imported by Tenth Harvest. This wine is 100% Nebbiolo. Alcohol 13%. There were candied red fruit aromas. In the mouth the wine fleshed out with some concentrated red fruit supported by very fine and powdery texture. The drying, tannins persist through the finish where a bit of tart, yet creamy fruit come out. Mature but will last ** Now-2018.
2013 Paolo Cali, Mandragola, Vittoria Frappato – $17
Imported by RWK Imports. This wine is 100% Frappato that was fermented then aged for 4-6 months in stainless steel. Alcohol 13%. An attractive nose but one is quickly distracted by the rather frizzante beginning. There was unique bright and mineral infused blue fruit that was brought forth on assertive grapefruit acidity. A little odd. * Now.