Archive
Bastardo & Mostcatel: the dinner wines 2011 – 1959
After working through 20 different Madeira at Bastardo & Moscatel: The Tasting 1927 – 1830 it was time for the transition to dinner service. As always there is an array of Champagne to work through. A pair old label and very tasty NV Krug, Champagne Brut Grand Cuvée, an oxidized 1985 Salon, Champagne Brut Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs, a substantive 1996 Bollinger, Champagne La Grande Année, 1998 Pierre Peters, Champagne Brut Le Mesnil Blanc des Blancs, and 1982 Tattinger, Champagne Brut Millesime. There is an interesting trio of Dom: 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon, a magnum of good 1988 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rose, and an old survivor the 1959 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon.
To transition from Champagne to red wine is a very good bottle of 1989 Clos St Hune, Riesling Vendanges Tardives Hors Choix of which I took note. Then came a grab bag of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, and Portuguese wines. I missed out on tasting a number of bottles but then I did manage to receive some healthy pours of some great wine! Please find my general impressions below.
1989 Clos St Hune, Riesling Vendanges Tardives Hors Choix
Moderately sweet with Riesling fruit this is well balanced and dense. There is a lovely floral note.
1967 Chateau Latour, Pauillac
In fine shape, one gentleman described as the “perfect luncheon claret”. I agree, dark fruit, cedar, fresh acidity, and easy to drink.
1971 Chateau Latour, Pauillac en magnum
Shipped by Nathaniel Johnston & Fils. Wow, in fine shape and drinking very well right now. Dark fruits, wood box, and yes, graphite.
1990 Chateau Latour, Pauillac
Shipped by SEMAV. Imported by Ginday Imports. Alcohol 12.5%. A beautiful color, lighter than the 1989 Haut-Brion. Aromatic on the nose and flavorful in the mouth. The wine is thick in a sense, textured, and still developing yet the minerals and graphite are engaging right now.
1989 Chateau Haut-Brion, Graves
Shipped by Armand Roux. Attractive animale nose. Wow in the mouth, mineral, dense, and sexy with fat coated flavors. The animale quality persists in the flavor making it complete. This is only just starting to open up.
1959 Berry Bros & Rudd, Chateau Montrose, St. Estephe
Imported by Marine Trading Consultants. This is great and even better than my two chateau bottled experiences. The fruit is more concentrated and sweet. Clearly well-stored.
2011 Remoissenet, Montrachet Le Montrachet
Starting to mature.
1985 Bonneau du Martray, Corton Charlemagne
Yeasty and rich in the mouth with apple orchard flavors. The acidity makes it crisp and tense with a citric note.
1991 La Pousse D’Or, Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse D’Or Monopole en magnum
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. Alcohol 14%. This is entering maturity with vibrant red fruit over underlying blue fruit flavors. I am happy to discover the fine evidence of maturity.
1970 Avery’s, Domaine Gros-Renaudot, Richebourg Grand Cru
This is a gentle wine with an introduction of sweet, concentrated fruit infused with fat. The fruit is still supported by structure which leaves a sweet, wood note.
1990 Pierre Bouree Fils, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Selected and shipped by The Wine Society. Sweeter and softer with good depth of flavor. The wood notes are infused with a sweet finish.
1996 Jose Alfonso e Filhos, Rogenda, Veiras
Alcohol 13%. Fine ripe blue and black fruit, ripe wood texture, and spice. Nicely structured.
1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage
A good nose which is earth and animale. It is barely entering maturity. Right now it is perfectly balanced with the structure well-integrated. Plenty of grip.
From the Comet Vintage through the Victory Vintage: A casual fine wine dinner with Mannie Berk and Ricardo Freitas
Last week started off strong as I attended A Blast from the Past: Madeira Extravaganza in DC which celebrated 20 years of collaboration between Mannie Berk (Rare Wine Co.) and Ricardo Freitas (Vinhos Barbeito). The week ended in Philadelphia where I gave a talk about Henry Hill and Madeira. It turns out that the week was steeped not only in old Madeira but also in old red wine. There was a Madeira from the famous 1811 Comet Vintage and a red Burgundy from the 1945 Victory Vintage.
These important vintages were drunk with dinner at Ripple. Present were Mannie, Ricardo, Darryl, Nancy, Tim, Lou, Kevin, and myself. Many thanks to Marjorie Meek-Bradley for sending out plates of lovely food and Danny Fisher for taking care of us.
To be presented with any glass of wine from the Comet Vintage is a treat. Even some fifty years after the harvest, John Timbs wrote in 1862, “Who has not heard of the comet wine of 1811?” Just over a decade later Charles Hindley defined “comet wine” as one “of superior quality”. He noted that this was perhaps “because the comets themselves exercise some chemical influence on them.” Henry Vizetelly wrote about this vintage a few times, describing it as “famous” and “grand”. I was, admittedly, infected with historic excitement. Bemused why no one at the table was discussing comets, you can only imagine my great laugh when Mannie suggested all of the people who cared about Comet Wines had long since passed away. Indeed, I bear no resemblance to the following satire illustrating the type of men who might have cared about it.

The sort of people who cared about the Comet Vintage. Anacreontick’s in full Song. Gilroy, James. 1801. #1868,0808.6974. The British Museum.
Comets aside, the 1945 vintage was on everyone’s minds with the difficulties in the vineyards and of producing the wine. But first we drank Champagne as everyone arrived. There was discussion of flawed state of the Champagnes. I did not mind too much, though I found the 1989 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut Collection too aggressive. The 1990 Philipponnat, Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses had a rather short finish, the mousse was soft and it reminded me of an old wine. I enjoyed it. There was no disagreement about the sole white wine. Simply put, the 2000 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent), Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses was electric!
1989 Krug, Champagne Vintage Brut Collection
The yeasty, deep nose made way to good bubbles that burst from aggression in the mouth. The wine was minerally with a little creamy spiced flavor. The flavors themselves were mature. *** Now – 2025.
1990 Philipponnat, Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses
Imported by Vieux Vins. Disgorged February 2001. Alcohol 13%. I found a beautiful core of fruit then apple orchard hints. The fruit is ripe and texture with smaller, gentler bubbles bringing it forward. The flavors leaned towards that of a mature still wine mixed with baking spices. No doubt good to drink but the shorter finish is obvious. ***(*) Now – 2020.
2000 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent), Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Imported by Vieux Vins. Alcohol 13%. The yeasty, electric nose of yellow fruit prepared the palate for the young and lovely flavors in the mouth. The wine showed more fruit both with air and with food. There was a very focused, gentle weight, and an attractive hint of cream and note. Note quite saline. Certainly lovely. **** Now – 2025.
A stunning old Burgundy
Though Clos de Lambrays is a centuries old estate my particular interest is that of the past century when the estate, under the Rodier family, went into decline after the First World War. Fortunately, Albert Rodier had a wealthy mistress, Renee Cosson who acquired the estate in 1938. The Appellation Controlee in Burgundy had just been established a few years earlier in 1936. The vineyards of Clos de Tart, Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint-Denis, and even Bonnes Mares were classified as the finest. Despite Clos de Lambrays being surrounded by these Grand Cru vineyards, the Cosson’s never pursued this designation potentially due to taxes, according to Clive Coates. It is commonly reported that as the old pre-phylloxera vines died off they were never replaced and the soils were not composted. Chaptalization was never allowed and the wine spent a very long time on the skins.
Clive Coates writes that the 1945, 1947, 1948, and 1949 are “some of the finest Burgundies I have ever drunk.” Robert Parker echoed the sentiment stating “the 1945 Clos des Lambrays I drank would certainly quality as one of the greatest and most potent burgundies I ever tasted.” He does continue that other bottles were never quite as good. Michael Broadbent tasted three bottles in the 1980s. From his “ecstatic notes” he wrote “reminiscent of Petrus ’47; incredibly sweet, sweeter than the port (1887 Sandeman)”. Charles Walter Berry, writing in the 1930s, was ecstatic about the 1898 vintage remarking, “This was a WINE! Very, very fine.”
The 1945 vintage in Burgundy saw a severe frost on May 1st which significantly reduced the potential crop size. A cyclone hit in late June further reducing potential size to one-sixteenth of what was anticipated. Thus the hot weather combined with a tiny number of grapes resulted in very concentrated wines. Indeed, our bottle of 1945 Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays lived up to the historic hype clearly reflecting the “traditional manner” of production as described by Alexis Lichine. The wine smelled unique and in the mouth were old-school flavors that still contained fruit with a seamless, minerally, weighty nature. The wine drank great for about one hour after it started to fade by drying up. There is no doubt in my mind that well stored examples will drink well for many years to come.
The label for the wine is quite attractive and was designed a friend of the Cosson family, the Alsacian Hansi. If you examine the label, it previously stated “Cosson Seul Proprietaire de Clos des Lambrays”. Subsequent to the printing of the label the words “Seul” and “Proprietaire de Clos des Lambrays” was over struck. The word “Heretiers” was added above “Cosson”. In the 1960s, Robert Cosson took over the operations from his mother Renee Cosson. Alexis Lichine writes that he sold wine to shippers. This makes sense because this bottle was shipped by Jean-Claude Boisset who formed his Negociant company in 1961. Perhaps reflecting his new management status Robert Cosson felt “Heretiers Cosson” was only appropriate given that he was heir to the estate. I have made a few enquiries and will update this post with anything I hear back.
1945 Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays
Shipped by Jean-Claude Boisset Wines USA.. Imported by Jean-Claude Boisset. Alcohol 12.5%. There is a unique, attractive nose with dark soil notes and a hint of band-aid. In the mouth a significant amount of fruit still exists with a minerally, weighty nature. The tannins are nearly resolved with the acidity bound in a seamless package. There is great balance and plenty of concentration and power for future life. With air the wine took on a sweaty, pungent nature with old-school flavors, and an attractive hint of saline and soil. Clearly unique. After one hour the flavors became drier but then my glass was emptied. ****(*) Now – 2025+.
Mature Bordeaux
Three red Bordeaux comprised our red wine flight. Kevin decanted the 1953 Chateau Latour, Pauillac whereas I simply opened the other two bottles. The cork of the 1955 Chateau Margaux, Margaux was in good shape, only slightly soft, and came out in one piece with the help of my Durand. The top of the cork was branded with two overlayed T’s. I meant to check the body of the cork but forgot and left it on the table. Though the cork of the 1961 Chateau Calon-Segur, St. Estèphe came out in one piece, it was coated on the top and indeed all the way along the sides with a dusty, moldy smelling layer. Hence the low-shoulder fill. The cork did not smell right and one whiff of the wine confirmed it was past drinking. As Mannie noted, it was the darkest wine of the trio, which to him, indicated oxidation.
That left us two chateau-bottled wines both produced by traditional methods. Whereas the Chateau Latour represents a style of management and winemaking that had been in place for decades, the Chateau Margaux represents efforts to return the estate, vineyard, land, and chateau back to form.
Chateau Latour was owned by shareholders with the estate administered by a Societe Civile since the 19th century. Incredibly the Phylloxera arrived late. The first vines only replanted onto American rootstock around 1901 with the entire vineyard completed in the 1920s. The 1950s eventually saw a doubling of yields over the previous decade. The fruit was destalked by hand then was fermented in oak vats. Les Forts de Latour would not exist for another decade until the 68 shareholders sold off a majority of their stakes. In wasn’t until this ownership changed in 1962 that the modern tools of mechanical destalking, stainless steel vats, and temperature control were introduced. Even the vineyards were extensively expanded.
The Ginestet family had completed purchasing shares of Chateau Margaux so that Pierre Ginestet became sole proprietor in 1940s. Under the Ginestets the sprawling vineyards were reduced to just the best terroirs and there was a return to selecting the best vats of wine for the grand vin. Like Chateau Haut-Brion, Chateau Margaux had mandated chateau-bottling in the 1920s but this was abandoned from 1930 through 1949 when shipping in wood was allowed. The Ginestets were able to restore chateau bottling as well as the chateau itself.
There is no doubt in my mind, nor was there in my palate, that the flight of Bordeaux could match the 1945 Clos des Lambrays for aroma, depth, and length. It was, harshly put, an obvious step down in quality. I write that not to belittle the Bordeaux but to show the clarity with which the 1945 Clos des Lambrays stood out. The 1953 Château Latour Grand Vin, Pauillac received decanting but to me it maintained a sort of grip on its flavor. I kept expecting it to reveal more but it never did. Still, it was enjoying and particularly fun because it offered a strong contrast to the Margaux. If the Latour offered a more powerful, stand-up profile the 1955 Château Margaux, Margaux was all about fruit with a delicate, gentle nature. On this night it was a wine to drink and be seduced by.
1953 Château Latour Grand Vin, Pauillac
Shipped by A. Delor & Co. Imported by International Vintage. Alcohol 13%. Consigned from a private collection to Edward Roberts International. The iron-like flavors maintained a focus that matched the core of red-black fruit hints and good acidity. The flavors maintained their binding in the structure and I found them particularly interesting n the middle with notes of old, dry leather, iron, and old wood. Will clearly last but will not offer anything in addition. ***(*) Now – 2020.
1955 Château Margaux, Margaux
Shipped by Smith & Hoey Ltd. Unknown importer. Mid-shoulder fill. There were lively, green hints in the mouth. Some structure came out on the teeth but the seductive, sweet, old fruit match it well and built intensity towards the finish. It is a pretty wine that took on a touch of weight. The delicate red fruit **** Now.
1961 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
Unknown shipper and importer. Bottom shoulder fill. Clearly tired on the nose but I gave it a go anyways. The aromas of mushrooms made way to firm flavors with roast notes and an old mushroom note. Dying.
Very old and figuratively young Madeira
I first tasted an 1811 Malvasia Candida wine earlier this year in New York City which you may read about in the post “[W]hen of the best kind, a most delicious wine.” An historic 19th century Malvasia Madeira tasting. In all honesty, the bottle from NYC proved the worst experience of the evening. This did not deter my excitement to try the wine again for there was a difference. The previous experience came from a Burgundy shaped bottle sealed with red wax. For this dinner the bottle bore the same label but the glass was Bordeaux shaped and the wax was a dark, military gray.
I had reasonably assumed, that when the 1811 was bottled the Burgundy bottles ran out so whatever else was on hand, Bordeaux bottles in this case, were then used. Or vice versa. That the wax was different implied two separate bottlings. However, from the very first sniff I knew this was a different wine and in no way related. In addition, it was way too young. Just the night before I drank the 1866 and 1837 Barbeito Bual with perfect provenance through Mannie from Ricardo. This particular bottle of 1811 tasted even younger! I will write a follow up post focusing in on this particular bottle in detail. There were other Madeira’s that night as well. It was getting late so my notes are short. The 1901 D’Oliveiras, Malvasia, Madeira was less sweet and showed an attractive nutty profile. The 1973 D’Oliveiras, Verdelho, Madeira was rich, racy, and pungent. All aspects that I really like. This is a young wine to consume in the future.
1811 Malvasia Candida, Madeira
Acquired from a private collection Acker Merrall & Condit auction May 21st, 2015, New York. This was very sweet on the nose and with air, a prominent thyme note came out. In the mouth this wine was sweet, concentrated, vibrant, with a hint of Big Red flavors and a bit of greenhouse. There was sweet sugar and lots of thyme flavors. Way too young to be an 1811 and of the wrong flavor profile. Nevertheless, whatever was in the bottle, provided a tasty experience. Not Rated.
1901 D’Oliveiras, Malvasia, Madeira
Imported by Vieux Vins. Alcohol 19%-21%. There was a musky nose with nut flavors in the mouth, acidity on the sides of the tongue, and good liveness. It had an oxidized note in the long finish. **** Now – 2090.
1973 D’Oliveiras, Verdelho, Madeira
Imported by Vieux Vins. Alcohol 19%-21%. This was rich and racy with fine power and structure. The pungent flavors mixed with orange peel before the powerful and dry finish. The wine returns again with strength. Young! **** Now – 2115.
The Calon Segur Vertical 2010-1982
Chateau-Calon-Segur. Image from Cocks and Feret, Bordeaux and Its Wines. 1883.
Just over one week ago I had the opportunity to taste 16 vintages of Château Calon-Ségur ranging from 2010 back to 1982. The tasting was organized by Panos Kakaviatos who managed to convince general manager Laurent Dufau to present his wines at Ripple in Washington, DC. The estate was recently acquired by Crédit Mutuel Arkéa and Jean-François Moueix. They hired Laurent Dufau who informed us this was the first promotional tasting in the United States in 120 years. I recommend you read Panos’ post Calon Segur 1982-2010: first ever promotional tasting in the US both for the background information and his perspective on the wines. Three important facts to consider are that until 2002 the wine was bottled on two separate dates, once in the spring and once in the July to September time frame. This fact alone introduces bottle variation. Secondly, in 2006 Vincent Millet took over the winemaking for the estate. Vintages prior to 2006 tend to have 50% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon but Mr. Millet increased the Cabernet Sauvignon proportion to 80%. He also sourced the fruit from the main 55ha vineyard.
We began the evening with glasses of Krug Champagne served by Maria Denton. Krug might be a fixture at Panos’ Bordeaux tastings in Washington, DC and it is of good effect. Everyone gets excited. There were many familiar faces present including Phil Bernstein (MacArthur Beverages), Chris Bublitz, Maria and David Denton, John Gilman (View From the Cellar), Darryl Priest, Karen Taylor (France Magazine), and David White (Terroirist). My assigned table included Kathy Morgan, Annette Schiller (Ombiasy Wine Tours), and Christian Schiller (Schiller Wine). You may find Christian’s post here A 16-Vintage Château Calon Ségur Vertical Tasting in Washington DC, with Wine Writer Panos Kakaviatos and Laurent Dufau, Managing Director, USA/Bordeaux. All of the wines we tasted were decanted as early as 3pm so they had plenty of air. In adding my brief comments both the 2010 and 2009 vintages have strong long-term development ahead of them. The 2008 was drinking quite well as was the 2005 vintage, the last prior to Vincent Millet. The later had initial notes of maturity and was just downright fun to drink. Reaching back further the 1989 was my favorite wine of the night. A classic mature wine. Unfortunately, my 1982 was full of sediment as was the rest of the table. It was decent but muted and in no way compared to the 1989. At the very end each person received a small pour from three different bottles of Sauternes. I have come to love Sauternes very much so it was to my delight that I discovered these bottles were still a third full at the end. The 1986 Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey provided a lovely end to the evening.
2010 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This wine had a subtle herbaceous nose. In the mouth were enjoyable yet firm and concentrated flavors. There were notes of graphite and spices in the finish followed by a good aftertaste. ***(*)
2009 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This bore a darker nose of black cherry with some deep, meaty aromas. The flavors were blacker with meat, a little hint of minerals, with some texture in the finish. ***(*)
2008 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
The nose was finely scented with some toast. In the mouth were firm cherry and black fruit flavors which were lively in the mouth. This wine was more open, drinking well, and had good acidity. ****
2007 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
The nose was richer and aromatic with chocolate notes and vegetal hints. In the mouth there were initial fruit flavors then a wall of structure. Much different than the 2006, with more green herbaceous notes. **
2006 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This had a very tight nose of clean fruit. In the mouth the tight fruit had both good structure and acidity. There were red fruit flavors which morphed into black fruit. The wine was elegant, perfumed, and had a good mouthfeel. A good wine. ***
2005 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
The nose was a touch darker. This was a fun wine with rustic flavors and chunky tannins. Drinking really well with hints of maturity. *****
2003 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
There was a little perfume on the nose. In the mouth were black fruit flavors, watering acidity, and presence of structure. This well done wine mixed minerals with structure in the finish. It had good fruit, texture, and balance. It was rather open. ****
2002 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This was a thinner wine with a little more minerals. The flavors leaned towards the red and it still had structure. **
2001 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
There was a linear delivery of fruit with some tart red flavors and a touch of vegetal notes. It bore hints of bottle age but presented a youthful aspect. There were black minerals in the finish and red fruit which was both dense and cool. A young wine. ***
2000 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
The nose was a bit earthy with spices. In the mouth the wine was young and not showing too much. It had powdery notes of rocks and structure in the mouth. Clearly meant for the long-haul. ***(*)
1999 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
There was a good, tight nose. The flavors were concentrated with prominent acidity and a slightly ripe finish. This was a good, fresh wine with some baking spices and a little earth. It was drying in the finish. ***
1998 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This revealed a little volatile sharpness on the nose. In the mouth this wine came together with air. It showed complexity with a tough, robust finish. There were attractive black fruit and floral elements. ****
1996 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This wine was fresh yet firm with some leanness wrapped around the structure. There was black and red fruit and some spice. Very nice. ****
1995 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This was more linear in delivery with acidity and more mellow blue fruit flavors. The flavors had some weight and there was a little toast to the structure. ***
1989 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This bore a lovely, earthy finely scented nose with mature aromas. In the mouth was good fruit, concentration, drying structure, and a little roast. My wine of the night. It had a balance between maturity and liveliness which made it a treat to drink. ****
1982 Château Calon-Ségur, St. Estèphe
This glass full of sediment was poured from a bottle with a perfect label. There were darker fruit notes, ripeness was there, some roast, a good wine but ultimately lacked that extra dimension. ***
1986 Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes
This had the lightest color the three Sauternes. There were apricot and floral notes. The residual sugar and acidity were balanced with some crispness to the wine. The apricot flavors became sharper towards the finish. Drinking well now. ****.
1989 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes
This had a piercing nose followed by sharpness in the mouth. This bottle was not showing well. NR.
2001 Raymond-Lafon, Sauternes
This had a slightly candied aroma followed by sweeter flavors and more obvious residual sugar with less acidity. The flavors leaned towards marmelade. ***
The Savory 1990 Chateau Phélan Ségur
Chateau Phélan Ségur was founded in the 19th century by Monsieur Bernard Phélan incorporating some land owned by Marquis Ségur. Bernard Phélan begin assembling property in the early 19th century and by the middle of the century he had the largest wine estate in St-Estèphe. William Franck lists production in 1845 as 200-250 tonneaux compared to Chateau Meyney at 150-200 tonneaux. In 1850 Charles Cocks tabulates Ségur et Garamey (Phélan) as the largest producing estate in St Estèphe with 220 tonneaux. This is followed by Meyney (Luetkins) at 160 tonneaux, Calon (Lestapis) at 140 tonneaux, Le Bosq (De Camiran) 130 tonneaux, and Cos-Destournel (Destournel) at 120 tonneaux. Bernard’s son Frank built the chateau which is located in the northern portion of St Estèphe just south of the town of St Estèphe near the Gironde River. Having no heirs the estate was sold to the Delon family in 1883. In the October 13, 1884 issue of the Ridley & Co.’s Monthly Wine & Spirit Trade Circular the 1883 vintage of Phélan Ségur was sold at £8 10s compared to Chateau Lynch-Bages at £9, and Chateau Palmer at £13 in the United Kingdom. In Bordeaux the 1882 vintage sold for 950 Fr per tonneau, the 1893 at 575 Fr per tonneau, and the 1899 at 600 Fr per tonneau. This may be compared to Chateau Kirwan at 1,800 Fr, 1,800 Fr, and 1,025 Fr per tonneau.
In the 20th century the estate was run by Roger Delon and his son Guy. Roger was the uncle of Michel Delon at Leoville-Lascases. After the death of Roger Delon in 1984 the estate was put up for sale by Guy in 1986. Xavier Gardinier, who was then head of Champagne Lanson, put in an offer within three days. The first years of ownership were wrought with problems. Customers complained about the 1983 vintage which turned out to be tainted by an insecticide. This vintage was recalled in 1987 but the 1984 and 1985 vintages were tainted as well thus never released. The Gardinier’s set about improving the estate. They introduced the second wine Frank Ségur in 1986. Yields were lowered by green-harvesting and a sorting table was introduced in 1987. Though a new cuvier had been installed in 1977 the winery was rebuilt in 1988. For the 1990 vintage the fruit was sourced from three parcels: eight hectares located near the chateau, a majority from some 40 hectares near Chateau Montrose, and 25 hectares near Chateau Calon-Ségur. This puts the parcels on small gravelly hills with subsoils of clay. The average age of the vines was just over 20 years with the maximum age just over 60. In my mind this was a lovely example of a maturing Bordeaux which I wish my basement was full of. The efforts of the Gardinier family clearly paid off with this vintage. It actually took over three hours to open up, at which point it smelled and drank beautifully. I suspect this will reach peak drinking over the next several years. There were no signs of bad storage nor defects. This wine was purchased at MacArthur Beverages.
1990 Chateau Phélan Ségur, Saint-Estèphe –
Imported by Luke’s Distributing Co. This wine is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 15% Cabernet Franc. It was aged 13-15 months in 50% new French oak. Alcohol 13%. The color was a light to medium garnet with bricking towards the edge. The light to medium strength nose was of red fruit and a little bit of dark, coffee roast. In the mouth there was minerally red fruit supported by acidity at first. The flavors then became blacker and dry with determined fruit. It was a touch salty, not quite hard in aspect, maturing with riper, black acidity and spice. There were sweet spices in the aftertaste and some earth and wood smoke as well. With air this wine became savory, put on a little weight, and had drier flavors. The structure is still there with cinnamon spiced tannins coming out. ***(*) Now-2023+.
Tasting a Mixture of Wines with Lou
Last week Lou and I got together for an impromptu tasting. I had just picked up the 1999 Kruger-Rumpf from MacArthur Beverages so I brought that along with the only other bottle I had from this estate. Lou had already opened the Albert Mann so he decided to decant the Lilian Ladouys followed by the Caronne Ste Gemme. Of the two Kruger-Rumpfs I was absolutely surprised by the youthful character of the 1999! It has the energetic acidity I so much love in a German Riesling, the impeccable quality of a library release, and a great price. The 2005 was markedly different with riper fruit and more obvious residual sugar. I agree with Lou in that I doubt it will reach the heights of the 1999 but it should certainly develop with some age. For me the Albert Mann was polarizing. While it was absolutely amazing to smell an ocean in my wine glass, the aromas were quite strong. In the mouth it had a lovely mouthfeel and the stuffing for a long life. I suspect others will enjoy this wine more than I did. The two Bordeaux were in a similar state of maturity with rather similar flavors. The Lilian Ladouys bore redder and cooler fruit whereas the Caronne Ste Gemme had riper and darker fruit. While both are approachable, the fruit was still primary so I would continue to cellar them.
1999 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Spatlese, Munsterer Pittersberg, Nahe – $32
A Terry Theise Selection imported by Michael Skurnik. This wine is 100% Riesling sourced from a 5.5 hectare vineyard on soils of Devonian slate. This was a light yellow color, a touch lighter than the 2005. The nose was more aromatic than the 2005 with matchstick, dried herbs, and white fruit. In the mouth the flavors of white fruit and orange citrus notes was delivered with textured acidity on the tongue. The fruit remained fresh and bright throughout with good acidity and a lively personality. The fruit became tarter in the finish with dried herbs in the aftertaste. This young wine is drinkable now though will live a long time. *** Now-2025.
2005 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Spatlese, Munsterer Daudenpflanzer, Nahe – $19 (at the time)
A Terry Theise Selection imported by Michael Skurnik. This wine is 100% Riesling sourced from a 1.7 hectare vineyard on soils of decomposed quartzite with loess. The color was light yellow and slightly darker than the 1999. The nose bore riper fruit, petrol, and heavier aromas. In the mouth there was more residual sugar beneath the weightier flavors. The initial fruit faded, leaving a long dark aftertaste of fruity-tooty flavors. On the second night the flavors were front-loaded with good interwoven flavor and texture before things tightened up with a short aftertaste. I would cellar this for development. **(*) 2017-2022.
2008 Albert Mann, Pinot Gris, Rosenberg, Alsace –
This had been open for two days. The aromatic nose smelled like the sea with its briny, kept notes. In the mouth there was surprisingly good texture and focus with only hints of briny flavors to the yellow fruit. This was lovely in the mouth with an oily character. On the next night the nose became overpowering with seaside aromas. Unique. ** Now-2025.
2006 Chateau Lilian Ladouys, Saint-Estephe, Cru Bourgeois Superieur – $16
This wine is an approximate blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc sourced from ninety plots of vines averaging 40 years of age. The wine is aged 16-18 months in one-third new oak barrels. The color was a touch garnet. There was a fresh nose of red berries and menthol with a generally fruity nature. In the mouth there was cool structure, acidity, and very fine tannins. ** 2015-2019.
2006 Chateau Caronne Ste. Gemme, Haute-Medoc, Cru Bourgeois –
This wine is an approximate blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot sourced from an average of 25-year-old vines. The wine is aged for 12 months in 20% new barriques. The color leaned towards ruby. There was denser, riper, dark red fruit. The wine was a little spicy with good structure and acidity. The flavors became blacker in the finish with a hint of minerality and drying but a bit chewy, tannins. ** 2015-2022.
Mostly Bordeaux Tasting at Lou’s
Earlier in the winter a group of us gathered at Lou’s house to taste some of his Bordeaux. Lou couldn’t find his 1982 Ch. Potensac so he substituted the 1984 Pesquera instead. That turned out to be a lovely treat. All of the wines were decanted about 1-1.5 hours prior to the tasting. The four Pomerols were served as the first flight with the remaining four in the second flight. The 1982 Branaire and the 1984 Pesquera were my favorite of the evening.
Flight #1 – 1982 Pomerol
1982 Ch. Rouget, Pomerol
This wine contains 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc that spent 24-30 months in barrel. This showed a light, stink nose of some hay and green notes. This bottle had the most dried out fruit out of all of the wines served. It still contained a core of tannins.
1982 Ch. L’Enclos, Pomerol
This wine contains 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec that spent 20 months in barrels and vats. A nose of dark fruit followed by dark fruit and minerals in the mouth. Holding together better than the Rouget.
1982 Ch. La Croix, Pomerol
This wine contains 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 20-24 months in barrel. The strongest nose of the first flight. Green but not menthol aromas. In the mouth there were berries, green fruit, that put on weight with air. A medium-strength aftertaste and a bit more acidity. To me the best of the first flight.
1982 Ch. De Sales, Pomerol
This wine contains 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 18-22 months in barrel. The lightest color of the first flight. An advanced browning color. Some cheesey funk on the nose. Somewhat sulphuric in the mouth, with hints of youthfulness but faded fast.
Flight #2 – The rest!
1982 Ch. Branaire (Duluc-Ducru), St. Julien
This wine contains 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot that spent 18-24 months in barrel. A light youthful nose of dark sugar, cinnamon, and leather aromas. In the mouth flavors of red fruit, black currant were delivered with good body and good tannins in the aftertaste. Easily the best of the 1982s.
1988 Ch. Meyney, St. Estephe
This wine contains 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot that spent 16 months in barrel. A light, young, tight nose. Rather tannic, greener, higher-pitched fruit than the 1986. The nose opened with air. The wine seemed to oscillate throughout the evening and at times was quite good. This was somewhat beguiling because the wine couldn’t decide to be present itself as young and shutdown or opening up to middle-age. I’d cellar this one longer to find out.
1986 Ch. Meyney, St. Estephe
This wine contains 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot that spent 16 months in barrel. A softer nose than the 1988 that left impression of dark berries and lemon. This was still fairly tannic and showed redder fruit in the aftertaste.
1984 Pesquera, Ribera del Duero
A unique, strong nose of red berries and cedar. With air ripe, red fruit come out to complete this well-balanced wine. A lovely treat, this drinks well now but will easily last. On the second night it was still going strong.
For dessert
2001 Rappahanock, Vidal Blanc, Virginia
A light color of amber. A nose of tart, bright, apricots. More apricots in the mouth. They were sweet and almost too cloying.