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Posts Tagged ‘Paestum’

From Rondinella White to Sangiovese, Four Good Wines

There has been no shortage of good Italian wines lately.  First up, the 2012 Zyme, From Black to White, Il Biano, Veneto has a significant proportion of Rondinella White in it, something not possible before 1999.  Rondinella is typically a red variety used in Amarone.  When a branch of a vine mutated to provide white grapes it was carefully cultivated for eight year until there was a parcel of vines.  This wine was really well done and reminiscent of an attractive orange-wine or very light red wine.  If you can only afford to purchase one of the wines featured in today’s post, this is the one.   The 2011 Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte, Morellino di Scansano clearly has depth but also needs a few years in the cellar.  Its quite good.  I do not think (and I reviewed my notes) that I have had Aglianico as forward drinking as the 2011 Azienda Agricola San Salvatore, Aglianico Jungano, Paestum.  There is a nice touch from the minerals and earth so why not enjoy this now?  The 2006 Castello di Cacchiano, Chianti Classico is a proper wine for aging.  I suspect it also reflects the strength of the vintage and the then newly banned inclusion of white fruit.  Stick this in your cellar and do not even bother broaching a bottle for a few years.  These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.

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2012 Zyme, From Black to White, Il Biano, Veneto – $23
Imported by Banville & Jones.  This wine is a blend of 60% Rondinella white, 15% Kerner, 15% Gold Traminer, and 10% Cross Manzoni.  Alcohol 13%. The color was a light straw.  The nose was rich with aromas of white fruit, sweet nuts, and eventually a waxy note.  In the mouth were rounded flavors of nuts, pastille-like flavors, and there was even a tingling sensation on the tongue.  This wine was creamy with floral notes, and lively acidity but picked up weight and some grip.  It had a long aftertaste with lots of texture.  It had hints of orange-wine character and with one’s eye closed, that of red wine.  *** Now-2015.

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2011 Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte, Morellino di Scansano – $20
Imported by Cantiniere Imports.  This wine is 100% Sangiovese aged for 10 months in Slavonian oak.  Alcohol 14.5%.  The nose revealed a good depth of black and red fruit.  In the mouth the flavors were more black with long, textured tannins, good depth, and some polished wood in the finish.  This will be a good wine and while air certainly helped, I would definitely cellar this a few years.  **(*) 2016-2026.

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2011 Azienda Agricola San Salvatore, Aglianico Jungano, Paestum – $28
Imported by Banville & Jones.  This wine is 100% Aglianico which was fermented in stainless steel then aged in a combination of tonneau, barriques, and stainless steel tanks.  Alcohol 14.5%.  This was surprisingly ripe and forward with blue fruit and ripe, sweet tannins.  The tannins turned dry with minerals before the earthy aftertaste.  There was lots of flavor, not huge depth, but strong appeal.  *** Now-2020.

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2006 Castello di Cacchiano, Chianti Classico – $26
Imported by Masciarelli Wine.  This wine is 100% Sangiovese which was fermented in stainless steel then aged for 30 months in French oak.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The nose revealed pleasing aromas of cherry and strawberry candy.  In the mouth were wood box notes and cherry fruit.  Though the flavors were light and dry it managed to expand through the mouth with good acidity, leaving a minerally finish.  The wine remained firm over a few nights and clearly needs further age. **(*) 2016-2024.

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Two Wines from the Middle of Italy

November 8, 2012 1 comment

This post features two wines which were fun to taste.  The Garofoli was the more elegant of the two.  It started off as a solid drink but then took a turn to show what was in store.  I would cellar this for another year.  The Il Sogno & La Pietra has a dense, chewy, tannic personality which I very much enjoy.  It could stand a few years for the fruit to expand and the tannins integrate but it works great if you drink it by a fire.  These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.

2007 Garofoli, Piancarda, Rosso Conero – $16
Imported by Grappoli Imports.   This wine is 100% Montepulciano which underwent malolactic fermentation then was aged for one year in oak casks.  Alcohol 14%.  The light nose revealed plum and blue fruits.  In the mouth the flavors were a little ripe with some focus to the cool blue fruits, and spice.  Blue and black fruit mixed with good spicy, drying tannins that coated the inside of the lips.  There was red fruit acidity and moderate weight.  The wine dramatically opened up after one hour to show youthful, fresh flavors with pencil lead and wood tannins.  **(*) 2013-2019.

2009 Il Sogno & La Pietra, La Pietra, Paestum – $22
Imported by Capital Wines.  This wine is a blend of 50% Barbera, 40% Aglianico, and 10% Primitivo sourced from clay and limestone soils.  It was fermented in stainless steel where it also underwent malolactic fermentation followed by aging for seven months.  Alcohol 14.5%.  The nose had some lift to the citrus blue fruits.  In the mouth there was a core of ripe blue fruit which has enjoyable density.  There were ripe tannins from the start with some plum and strawberry flavors.  The texture is smooth in the middle becoming more grapey in the finish with rough, drying tannins.  It  was a bit chewy in the aftertaste.  Somewhat Rhone-like with nice concentration.  *** Now-2019.