Archive
High-alcohol Verdelho, old Freisa, and older Napa Valley reds
The latest round of wines that Lou and I tasted presented a challenging start. Perhaps only the Scholium Project would offer a high-alcohol Verdelho white wine and the 2010 Scholium Project, The Wisdom of Theuth, Lost Slough Vineyards certainly exists outside of my conventional experience. I found an attractive blend of yeast, nuts, and lemon such that I am reminded a bit of a mature, flat Champagne. Lovers of mature white wine will find it engaging on the first night. Tasted blind, I would have guess the 1999 Pio Cesare, Freisa to be a late 1970s Italian Nebbiolo from a lesser region. It threw a tremendous amount of sediment. On the face of things, it is a decrepit wine for being from 1999. However, if you like very old Italian wine then you’ll enjoy it after it breaths for several hours. It becomes round and sweet with some delicate berries.
We soon moved on to a trio of Napa Valley red wines. The 1983 Villa Mt. Eden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley is from a very wet year which shows in a lack of quality fruit flavor and staying power. In comparison, the 1977 vintage is still rocking. The 1983 improves with air to be a modest wine which set us up for our next pair of wines from Burgess Cellars.
Burgess Cellars was founded in 1972 when Tom Burgess bought a 19th century winery that had been resurrected by Lee Stewart and known at the time as Souverain. Burgess Cellars was one of only two dozen wineries in Napa and Sonoma at the time of founding. The 1970s was a period when the house wine style was under development with the winemaker Bill Sorenson. At the same time the vineyards were expanded and replanted. In 1978 and 1979 the winery itself was significantly expanded. Long-term contracts were secured to provide an increased volume of fruit.
Perhaps this transitory period explains why the 1979 Burgess Cellars, Pinot Noir, Napa Valley is way past prime. It looks and smells old but there is still an attractive mouthfeel. Souverain and Burgess Cellars did have a legacy when it came to Cabernet Sauvignon which could explain the quality of the 1979 Burgess Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. The bottle stink quickly blew off to reveal deep fruit on the nose which is confirmed on the palate. This is a clean fruited wine with a bit of herbal greenhouse flavor wrapped in a seductive, textured mouth feel. My one grip is that it could stand a bit more acidity. Even Jenn enjoyed it and I enjoyed my last glass as I read my mystery book before bed.
2010 Scholium Project, The Wisdom of Theuth, Lost Slough Vineyards
This wine is 100% Verdelho that was fermented in both tank and barrel. Alcohol 15.88%. There is a bit of an apple orchard aroma but then it becomes primarily of yeast and white fruit. In the mouth this is a weighty, nutty white fruited wine with a cutting vein of acidity in the finish. There is an attractive yeast note, lemon peel, and tropical floral flavors delivered with a very fine, ripe grip. **(*) Now.
1999 Pio Cesare, Freisa
Imported by T. Elenteny. 12%. Between the brick color, nose, and initial flavors I would have guessed this wine to be decades older. After several hours of air it improved markedly. A bacon aroma moves on to very mature flavors in a wine that rounds out and becomes sweeter with air. While the nose remains past prime the mouth shows delicate berries, a little spice, good acidity, and an almost chewy nature. ** Now.
1983 Villa Mt. Eden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Alcohol 12.9%. This is a drier wine which improved with air. It is fully mature with not the best fruit at this stage though there are attractive notes of wood box and a hint of tobacco. It sports powdery density and a fresh finish. ** Drink Up.
1979 Burgess Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Alcohol 13.1%. The bottle stink quickly blows off to reveal deep blue aromas. In the mouth is clean fruit which is ripe and weighty before transitioning to dry flavors underpinned by black fruit. There is a seductive mouthful but truth be told this could use a bit more zip from acidity. It is very enjoyable though with fine wood notes, some fresh greenhouse, and a textured finish. *** Now but will last.
1979 Burgess Cellars, Pinot Noir, Napa Valley
Alcohol 13.4%. A light to medium-brown color spells doom which is confirmed on the nose. Surprisingly round and weighty in the mouth with a sweet core. Not Rated Past.
Tight Nebbiolo and open Sagrantino
I write my daily tasting notes on small Moleskine notebooks and employ a medium-sized spiral bound notebook for formal tastings. At times when I do not feel like walking upstairs to my office to fetch my daily notebook, I might instead grab a sheet from a notepad. The tasting notes I am publishing this week came from such loose sheets of paper because I lost my daily notebook, either on my plane or more likely, in the airport during my flight out to Seattle. There were only a few dozen unpublished notes from recently purchased bottles and a few bottles I have had for years. Oh well! I guess those empty bottles now go straight to the recycling!
Sagrantino and Nebbiolo are both capable of producing wines that must be aged before they are enjoyable. The 2011 Fattoria Col Santo, Sagrantino de Montefalco is the latest vintage of a wine which breaks the mold by being extremely enjoyable in its vigorous youth. Just think of a flavorful core of red and black fruits, graphite, minerals, excellent acidity, and some spicy tannins. This is seriously fun stuff at an affordable price. The 2004 Ca’Rome, Calimpia, Langhe clearly needs more age to resolve the firm and dry tannic structure. There are good flavors in the wine and in drinking it quickly, avoid double-decanting, it is a fine drink at $15. I would not gamble the original price of $48 because I am not entirely sure the flavors will outlast the structure. These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.
2011 Fattoria Col Santo, Sagrantino de Montefalco – $18
Imported by Siema Wines. his wine is 100% Sagrantino sourced from vineyards in Montarone on soils of clay and lime. The fruit is harvested at the beginning of October, fermented in stainless steel, then undergoes malolactic fermentation in 70% wood casks and 30% stainless steel. The wine is then aged for 15 months in wooden casks followed by a further 12 months of aging in stainless steel tanks. Alcohol 15.5%. There are lovely flavors of ripe red and black fruit which come out in the vigorous start. These flavors are quickly joined by black graphite, spices, and eventually minerals in the spicy, tannic finish. The acidity is spot on for the great core of fruit. The wine add density and minerality with air. Well done. ***(*) Now – 2026.
2004 Ca’Rome, Calimpia, Langhe – $15
Imported by Empson. This is 100% young Nebbiolo sourced from vines on the hill of Barbaresco. Alcohol ? There is some roast on the nose but not in the mouth. With a start of tart black and red fruit, the wine takes on some weight as dry, mouth-coating tannins come out. This is a very dry wine with firm wood tannins that actually contribute a sense of extract. Clearly needs age but there are some interesting flavors in the work. **(*) Now – 2026.
Young Nebbiolo for quaffing and contemplation
We have now lived in the new house for one week and at this point, I have unpacked most of my wine books. Given that I am also beginning to feel rested means I am making progress on many fronts. Another mark of progress was mowing all of the lawn. I was hot and sweaty afterwards so while I tended the grill I gulped some glasses of the 2013 Brezza Giacomo & Figli, Nebbiolo, Langhe. I never knew that young Nebbiolo could be so forward and refreshing! While it is true there is structure for the short-term, this wine is best drunk at a cool cellar temperature on the first night. The second wine in this post is completely different in nature. Though made from young vines the 2012 Bruno Rocca, Nebbiolo, Fralu, Langhe shows good complexity and depth. I really liked the flavor of this wine but the bit of oak coming out suggests you should cellar it for the short-term. These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.
2013 Brezza Giacomo & Figli, Nebbiolo, Langhe – $14
Imported by Tenth Harvest. This wine is 100% Nebbiolo that was raised in stainless steel and cement vats. Alcohol 13%. There were young grapey aromas from the nose. In the mouth was a floral, red fruited start which quickly turned into black fruit. The flavors were a little bitter with present and integrated acidity. The rather fine tannins covered the gums in the finish. A lighter, young wine for now. ** Now-2018.
2012 Bruno Rocca, Nebbiolo, Fralu, Langhe – $26
Imported by Bacchus Importers. This wine is 100% Nebbiolo sourced from vines 6-7 years of age that were fermented in stainless steel then aged for 8-12 months in French oak barriques. Alcohol 14.5%. The nose brought deeper, scented ripe aromas. In the mouth the fine, drying yet ripe and weighty tannins acted as a foundation from the start. The wine showed depth of flavor with cool, dense black fruit, some oak notes, and an attractive inky finish. The structure became more evident with air as did a cinnamon note. **(*) 2016- 2020.
Even more from Italy!!!
There is so much to try from Italy that I always seem to have stacks of pictures and notes waiting to be posted. This apparent bias stems from my trend of the summer to taste a smaller variety of wine and drink more humble southern French wines. There are some good bottles below. At the more affordable end both the 2008 Duca di Salaparuta, Passo Delle Mule, Nero d’Avola, Sicily and the 2008 Pio Cesare, Oltre, Langhe should be tried. You can drink the former while the later develops. For a few bucks more the 2007 Montepeloso, Eneo, Tuscany reminds me of an Italian claret that is entering middle age. Fun! I finally recommend you try the 2011 Pala, Cannonau di Sardegna Reserva. There is a reason why both the 2011 and 2012 vintages won Tre Bicchieri. I recommend you find out yourself by pulling the cork. Please find my tasting notes in order of increasing age. These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.
2011 Pala, Cannonau di Sardegna Reserva – $26
Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. This wine is 100% Cannonau that was aged in large French barrels followed by stainless steel. Alcohol 14%. The nose revealed mixed blue and red berries along with spices and black tea. The wine showed ripe, black fruit with air and was clearly blacker with a mineral hint in the finish. This was a well-balanced all around enjoyable wine with tannins, extract, and a little spicy bit in the aftertaste. I enjoyed the slight tobacco, spices, and wood box notes. *** Now-2022.
2009 Sella & Mosca, Tanca Farra, Alghero – $23
Imported by Palm Bay International. This wine is a blend of 50% Cannonau and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged for two years in oak casks. Alcohol 13.5%. The nose of clean fruit mixed with herbacious notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon. The mouth followed the nose with black, clean, herbacious fruit. This tight wine had firm acidity, some fresh herbs, and a dry, dusty finish. ** 2016-2020.
2009 Taurino, Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva – $14
Imported by Verity Wine Partners. This wine is a blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera that was aged for six months in small oak barriques. Alcohol 14%. There was an interesting nose with a subtle soil aroma, stones, and black fruit. The flavors were closely played, ripe, and matched by integrated acidity. It eventually revealed strawberry flavors with a slightly tannic finish. Seems young and in need of a wee bit of age. ** 2015-2020.
2008 Duca di Salaparuta, Passo Delle Mule, Nero d’Avola, Sicily – $17
Imported by Wine Cellars. This wine is 100% Nero d’Avola that was aged in barriques. Alcohol 13.5%. There was a good deep nose of scented black fruit. The black fruit flavors follow the nose and take on some wood notes as well. This weightier wine was a little meaty with seamless acidity, subtle structure, and a finish of dense, dark wood. It even had a little kick. *** Now-2017.
2008 Pio Cesare, Oltre, Langhe – $17
Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Thsi wine is a blend of Barbera, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Alcohol. There was an interesting grapey nose with mulberry aromas. In the mouth this young wine opened up well after half an hour. It had a certain brightness to the black and red fruit. There was a tobacco note, round tart red fruit followed by a dry and black finish. **(*) 2015-2020.
2007 Montepeloso, Eneo, Tuscany –
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. This wine is a blend of 40% Montepulciano, 25% Sangiovese, 25% Marselan, and 10% Alicante Bouschet that was aged in used French oak barrels. Alcohol 14.5%. There was claret-like red fruit and wood box on the nose. with air it took on herbs and meaty aromas. The flavors began with red fruit before taking on black notes and minerals in the finish. There was good integrated acidity that was balanced by the structure of citric-pith tannin. The wine is developing secondary flavors and after many hours of air it some some dense blue and black flavors that lean towards the dry. *** 2016-2024.
2007 Fattoria Del Cerro, Caggio Al Vescovo, Rosso Toscano – $20
Imported by The Rare Wine Co. This wine is 100% Colorino. Alcohol 13.5%. The nose was tight revealing just subtle leather aromas. In the mouth this modern wine had ripe grip to the flavors dominated by tobacco, smoke, and bacon in the drying finish. This wine will clearly last but there is more structure than fruit. **(*) Now-2022.
2006 Taurino, Notarpanaro, Salento Rosso – $20
Imported by Verity Wine Partners. This wine is 100% Negroamaro. Alcohol 14.5%. This wine had a light nose of dark aromas. In the mouth were dark red fruit and other low-lying flavors. This was a cool, ripe wine that took several hours to open up and show black, almost mineral infused fruit. **(*) 2016-2022.
1994 Felsina, Cru Rancia and 1997 Elio Altare, Vigna Lirigi
I went to L’s for Italian wine at the beginning of February. It was just a casual mid-week get together to drink some wine and eat leftovers. The Felsina was a $25 winter clearance wine from Cecile’s and the Altare was $60 at MacArthur’s. We did not bother to decant the wines. Instead we just drank them from the bottles over three hours. I did not take formal notes. Both wines were lovely and different and in no way overshadowed each other.
1994 Felsina, Cru Rancia, Chianti Classico Riserva
Tasted 02 February 2011.
This wine is more brick colored and has a stronger nose of mature, sweet, dusty, spiced fruit. There is good mouthfeel, medium bodied, completely integrated and still has occasional waves of fruit. It is mature but has years of easy life left. It was still going strong when we finished the bottle. It was ready to drink shortly after opening. An outrageous deal at $25. **** Now-2017.
1997 Elio Altare, Vigna Lirigi
Tasted 02 February 2011.
This is literally and behavioraly a younger wine. It sports hints of purple in the color and maintained a muted nose. There is quite the core of young, brambly red fruit that slowly fleshed out and took on more blue/black berry profile. Tannins are resolved and acidity makes for juicy, berried fruit. The fruit is surprisingly young and tasty. It is a good wine that is well made and a pleasure to drink. If I drank it again I would decant it for two to three hours before drinking. I think it was about to hit its stride when we finished the bottle. ***(*) Now-2022.
Three Wines From Italy, 25 July 2008
From time to time I ask my local wine merchant for Italian recommendations and I’m usually not disappointed. The Cavallotto was clearly a step up in quality (and price) from the Giochi and Venosa. I imagine this will smell great once it matures. For now you must inhale deeply. The Giochi delivered well straight from the bottle and wouldn’t get lost in a crowd of budget wines. The Venosa took some time to get going but maintained is pervasive smoked tea leaf aromas and flavors. It reminded me of tea smoked duck (the process not the duck), perhaps this is tobacco to others. Jenn and I preferred the Giochi over the Venosa but then Jenn took a liking to the Venosa.
2004 Antichi Giochi, Boci, Monferrato Rosso – $13
This wine is made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Barbera. It was made in steel and aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. It is a very dark, deep purple ruby. There is a light nose of dark fruit and perhaps fresh green veggies. In the mouth there are tart berries, that start off tight but slowly round out with air. There medium to full bodied wine has an inky aftertaste, with very fine but thorough tannins. A different type of wine than I am used to but enjoyable and well done at this price point.
2003 Cantina di Venosa, Terre di Orazio, Aglianico del Vulture – $13
This wine is 100% Aglianico that is 15-30 years of age. It is aged for 12-15 months in 5-10 year old Slovenian oak casks. A little light in color and more garnet than the Giochi. A light to medium nose of smoked tea leaf and tar. In the mouth there are some blue fruits with a pervasive smoked tea leaf flavor. The fruit sweetens after several hours of air. It is medium to light-bodied with fine, assertive tannins.
2005 Cavallotto, Nebbiolo, Bricco Boschis, Langhe – $26
The Cavallotto family has been growing Nebbiolo since 1929 and bottling their own wine since 1948. This 100% Nebbiolo wine is mature in oak casks. There is a very subtle nose of beautiful, dark red fruit. In the mouth there is dark fruit with immediately noticeable acidity, combined with tea/tobacco flavors and a good amount of ultrafine tannins. This is clearly a young wine but is drinking very well. The tannins are very nice considering it spent 18-24 months in oak.