Posts Tagged ‘Jura’

Three Wild Wines from Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat


John recently brought in a selection of wines from Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat.  I picked up three of the red wines which I have opened up over the past week.  These wines are made without any sulphur using grapes from Beaujolais and Jura. The 2016 Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat, Les Fanfans s’amusement, VdF Rouge is pure Muscat rouge which is the greatest outlier of the group being of cloudy color and grapefruit aroma.  It is clearly not for everyone but the flavors have a lovely earthy note and sense of ripeness.  While it does not fall apart into the Pilsner/popcorn spectrum, it is best drunk up on the first day.  The 2017 Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat, Y’a bon the Canon, VdF Rouge mixes Gamay with a slew of indigenous Jura varieties.  There is some brett which contributes earth and matches the potpourri flavors with dry tannins.  It is also lively in the mouth and largely stable.  It too will not be for everyone.  My strongest recommendation goes out to the 2015 Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat, Cuvee Madelan Nature, VdF Rouge.  This is the most stable of the three wines, deep in flavor with attractive animale qualities.  I find it compelling to drink.  This is a must-try for those with interest in the Jura.  You may find these wines on the shelves at MacArthur Beverages.


2016 Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat, Les Fanfans s’amusement, VdF Rouge – $24
Imported by MacArthur Liquors.  This wine is pure Muscat rouge.  Alcohol 13%.  Cloudy with a pale, garnet-rose color.  Smells like a lambic beer with grapefruit and berry aromas.  Lively acidity first greets the tongue with a slight prickle followed by high-toned fruit and a mineral middle.  There is ethereal ripeness and a lovely, earthy note before the Big Red spiced finish.  Of moderate weight, there is an acidity sharp finish, and long aftertaste.  **(*) Now.


2017 Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat, Y’a bon the Canon, VdF Rouge – $29
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is a blend of Gamay from Beaujolais with old Jura varieties such as Petit Béclan, Gros Béclan, Geusche, Argant, Peurion, Portugais Bleu, Isabelle, and Enfarine. Alcohol 13%.  A tickle on the tongue, some brett for earthy, and drying, astringent tannins.  With air potpourri flavors develop, surrounded by some fat, citric acidity, and grip in the end.  *** Now.


2015 Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat, Cuvee Madelan Nature, VdF Rouge – $33
Imported by MacArthur Liquors.  This wine is a blend of mostly Gamay from Morgon and Brouilly with Enfarine from Jura.  Alcohol 13%.  A cranberry red color.  Some earth and wood mix with dry, red fruit, and leather.  This remains the most stable of the wines, developing an animale note.  The lively flavors are somewhat tingling from acidity with red fruit leaning towards deeper, supportive black fruit flavors.  The middle brings dry, citric pithe tannins and an earthy note.  This is a fresh wine with good depth and chalky ripeness.  Compelling.  **** Now – 2022.

Excellent Trousseau from Puffeney and Gahier

December 29, 2014 Leave a comment

Jacques Puffeney and Michel Gahier are neighbors in Montigny-les-Arsures which is a regarded as the “prime site” for Trousseau in Jura.  Their two wines which are featured in today’s post were imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant.  That is where the similarity ends. While the 2011 Jacques Puffeney, Trousseau, Cuvee Les Betangeres, Arbois  reflects the two additional years of age, it is a darker wine with complexity increased by earth and bacon fat. In contrast the 2013 Michel Gahier, Trousseau, Les Grans Vergers, Arbois is brighter with red fruit, citric notes, and minerality. While I do not have any experience with mature Trousseau, I think it is fairly obvious that both of these bottles will continue to develop and last for many years.  I recommend that you grab some friends to try both bottles together.  These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.


2011 Jacques Puffeney, Trousseau, Cuvee Les Betangeres, Arbois – $34
Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchants.  This wine is 100% Trousseau that was fermented in cuve then aged for 20 months in used foudre.  Alcohol 13%.  There were more fruity flavors with a touch of roundness that became racy towards the finish.  Drier tannins supported the wine from underneath.  There was a depth to the flavor that was forward in a way but still young.  With air the complex dark flavors became a little earthy with cherry flavors and bacon fat.  So drinkable.  ***(*) Now-2022.


2013 Michel Gahier, Trousseau, Les Grans Vergers, Arbois – $34
Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchants.  This wine is 100% Trousseau sourced from 60-70 year old vines that was aged in old foudre and barrel.  Alcohol 12.5%.   The nose bore darker red fruits that mixed with fresh floral aromas from a green house.  In the mouth were lively red fruit and black minerals before racy, citric red fruit came out.  There were good ripe, citric pithe tannins in the structure.  There was a dry, black finish with a perfumed aftertaste.  With air the wine took on more acidic, greenhouse, and black pepper notes.  *** 2016-2022.


Anniversary drinks at Fleurie in Charlottesville

November 20, 2014 Leave a comment


Jenn and I celebrated our latest wedding anniversary by spending a family weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia.  The one person I happen to know there is Erin Barbour Scala (Thinking-Drinking).  We previous met in New York City during her days as sommelier at Public NYC followed by The Musket Room.  Having had diverse and fantastic wines with her before I knew there was no other choice than to dine at Fleurie restaurant where both she and her husband are now based.  As Wine Director, Erin’s wine list focuses in on France and Virginia but she is far too curious to neglect the rest of the world as was evidenced by her selections that night.  We were greeted to glasses of NV Rolet, Crement de Jura for ourselves and locally made sparkling grape juice for our daughter.  The Rolet was great by itself, accessible with a nice balance of yeast and fruit.  It left me thirsty for more wine.


I select the wines we drink at home on a daily basis so it is nice to step away from making any choices.  We gave no direction to Erin as to what we felt like drinking or avoiding.  With Coravin in hand Erin proceeded to pour a utterly fun variety of wines.  To go with our shrimp risotto with carrots and shellfish sauce she poured the 2009 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes.  It was utterly satisfying and drank spot-on with its balance of maturity, fruit, and supportive toast.  Jenn’s herb crusted halibut was joined by the 2010 Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenauer Felseneck, Riesling trocken Grosses Gewächs, Nahe.  The glass was incredibly and persistently aromatic with herbs, stones, and some petrol with great balance in the mouth.  Great stuff! For my venison Erin poured two different red wines.  The 2011 Avennia, Sestina, Columbia Valley is a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc blend with fruit sourced from the Bacchus and Red Willow vineyards.  It was forward and complex with darker, racy fruit that was hard to resist.  Avennia was only launched in 2010 so if this second vintage is an example of their other wines this is a new name to follow.  My second red wine was completely different being the 2010 Cambridge Road, Dovetail, Martinborough.  As Erin pointed out this field blend of mostly Pinot Noir with Syrah is not such an oddity given the affinity for these varieties to perform in cooler climates.  Its oscillation between Pinot Noir and Syrah aromas was rather intriguing.


With our trio of desserts and petit fours came the King Family Vineyards, Loreley, Monticello. This pure Petit Manseng wine was made in the vin de paille style.  She poured this wine because it shares the same name as our daughter.  It was a touching end to our meal.  If you are in the Charlottesville area or need a break from the city I strongly recommend you dine at Fleurie.  Due to the Coravin you can drink almost anything on the list by the glass.  With a large order of wines soon to be added there will be even more reasons to stop by.

Trousseau Gris and Noir from Jura and Russian River Valley

I find it hard to believe that the summer is ending.  A quick review of my files, both digital and paper, confirm what I already know, I am once again behind in posting my tasting notes.  As such I have not written about my recent enjoyment of Trousseau Gris and Trousseau Noir.  There is not much Trousseau Gris in California, what I have tasted is all from the Fanuchi-Wood Road Vineyard, so it is interesting to see the variation in style.  The 2012 Wind Gap, Trousseau Gris, Fanuchi-Wood Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley appears on the cusp of settling down.  There are rich offerings on the nose and in the mouth with enough crisp acidity to move it along.  Part of the fun is tasting the different flavors as the wine warms up.   For me the 2012 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot, Trousseau, Arbois is all about the nose.  Simply beautiful!  The flavors were not as developed but did show a minerality that must be due to the limestone soils.  Until I can catch up on my tasting notes I simply recommend you try all the Trousseau based wines that you can!  The change in style will be refreshing.  The Wind Gap was purchased at Flatiron Wines and the Tissot at MacArthur Beverages.


2012 Wind Gap, Trousseau Gris, Fanuchi-Wood Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley – $26
This wine is 100% Trousseau Gris sourced from primarily sandy soils.  The fruit was foot crushed before whole cluster fermentation in concrete eggs.  It was raised in a combination of stainless steel and neutral oak.  Alcohol 12.3%.  The color was a light yellow straw.  There were rich aromas on the nose, almost petrol like, developing into the tropical spectrum, all the while remaining crisp.  In the mouth were rich, white fruit flavors, and a nice body in the middle.  The crisp acidity was present at the start and middle, supporting the strong flavors which were reminiscent of red wine when warm.  The structure was mild before the somewhat rough flavors in the finish and long aftertaste.  **(*) Now-2015.


2012 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot, Trousseau, Arbois – $25
Imported by Potomac Selections.  This wine is 100% Trousseau Noir sourced from biodynamic vines averaging 40 years of age located on limestone soils.  It was raised in a combination of oak barrel and tank.  Alcohol 13%.  There was a good fragrance that I found hard to describe but my mom noted as incense.  In the mouth was a gentle start with flavors following the aromas.  There was some ripe blue, tart flavors on the tongue, and ripe texture.  Though the wine was lighter in profile it had some cat’s tongue tannins.  With air it showed good graphite notes that mixed with blue and black fruit.  A very solid wine.  ** Now-2015.


Tasting Unlabeled and Bagged Wines With Lou

October 11, 2013 Leave a comment


I went over to Lou’s house earlier this week to taste some wine.  He had put together a small flight of wines to taste blind so I thought it would be amusing to bring over two bottles of white wine which were missing their labels.  I never wrote down what the first wine was so it shall remain an Unknown French White Wine of recent vintage.  It was actually quite nice on the nose, certainly Sauvignon Blanc with Lou guessing Sancerre.  Next up was the 2011 Domaine de la Pépière,  Clos des Briords which Lou immediately guess as Muscadet based on the bottle.  I had double-decanted this one hour prior.  This is made from the oldest vines of the estate, planted in 1930, and I think that it is best left in the cellar.  Lou then brought out the 2010 Domaine Rolet, Chardonnay, L’Etoile.  I loved the 2007 vintage which I tasted last summer and suspect the 2010 will also develop well with age.  The last wine I brought over was the 2006 Domaine du Coulet, Brise Cailloux.  I tasted the 2006 No Wine’s Land back in the summer of 2008 and the 2008 Brise Cailloux earlier this year (thanks again to Lou).  The 2006 had a gorgeous, engaging nose which is not quite/yet matched in the mouth.  There is plenty of life ahead so I would be curious to hold on to any bottles.

We then came to the blind wines.  Lou had double-decanted them so the probably had about one hour of air before we tasted them.  I started with the first two wines and was really happy.  Parlor games are fun so I guessed the first was either from Charvin or a Stolpman, Syrah.  Having recently drunk the 2010 Stolpman, Syrah Estate, there was something familiar in mind.  Lou commented there was no California Syrah in the lineup.  In all fairness, Lou had previously offered to open up the 2008 Domaine du Pegau, Reservee due to my current interest in Pegau.  I suspected he had not for this tasting.  The second wine was certainly funkier, showing more advanced aromas and flavors, and absolutely lovely.  Remembering the 2008 Clos des Papes Phil opened last year, I guessed it was a wine from 2008.  The third wine had a brick wall of tannins, I thought some cuvee which saw way too much new oak.

It turned out the first wine was the 2007 Stolpman Vineyards, Grenache Estate, the second was 2008 Domaine du Pegau, Reservee, and the third was 2007 Domaine Grand Veneur, Clos de Sixte.  The 2008 Pegau stole the show.  We typically split and gas up the leftovers to be tasted the next night.  I was so excited by the Pegau that Jenn and I finished it up that evening.  Lou purchased this bottle for $25 from Premier Cru, what a deal!  After that I really enjoyed the 2006 Coulet.  I think the 2007 Stolpman was more impressive the first night but the 2007 Grand Veneur certainly improved on the second night.


Unknown French White Wine
This had ripe, grassy aromas of white candy with fine texture.  It was strong in the nose with its floral, white candy aromas.  The mouth was less impressive but had a nice chalky, dry aspect.  ** Now-2014.


2011 Domaine de la Pépière,  Clos des Briords, Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine
Imported by Louis/Dressner.  The color was a very light white straw.  The tight nose eventually revealed some heavy, underlying floral fruit.  In the mouth was white candy-like fruit, not-quite crisp acidity, then rounder flavors of delicate white peach with a little tart tang.  The wine was balanced with a little, fine ripe finish.  This young wine eventually developed white stones which mixed with some tannins.  **(*) 2014-2020.


2010 Domaine Rolet, Chardonnay, L’Etoile, Jura
Imported by Williams Corner Wine.  Alcohol 13%.  The subtle nose was apple-like.  In the mouth the white fruit had weight with good, drying stone texture.  There was fresh acidity in the start, lots of personality, and youth.  **(*) 2014-2024.


2006 Domaine du Coulet (Matthieu Barret), Brise Cailloux, Cornas
Imported by MacArthur Liquors.  Alcohol 13%.  There was a nice nose of floral aromas, pepper, and leaves of violets.  It was finely delineated with a hint of sweet, spiced orange peel at the end.  There was tart red fruit which was acidity driven from the start.  The flavors continue through the wine eventually showing a hint of maturity.  It was steely with minerals, and a black fruit with graphite finish.  The structure slowly came out, leaving some very fine tannins on the gums.  ***(*) Now-2025.


2007 Stolpman Vineyards, Grenache Estate, Santa Ynez Valley
This  Alcohol 15%.  There was fresher, younger red fruit with an orange citrus aroma.  It was a fine wine in the mouth mixing red fruit with a darker core and ripe, fine, drying tannins.  It took on perfumed fruit, young but very attractive.  It dried out a bit with air but kept a sweet, ripe finish.  It took on some orange peel flavors with air, along with dry, very fine tannins.  Best on the first night.  *** Now-2018.


2008 Domaine du Pegau, Reservee, Chateauneuf du Pape
Imported by Kirkcrest Imports.  Alcohol 14%.  A slighter darker core.  The nose was older with earthy, smoky aromas.  It was a little sweaty with some blood.  The mouth followed the nose with ripe fruit, tannins, and acidity which tickles the tongue tip.  It had a lipstick finish and a long, expansive, beautiful aftertaste.  With extended air a youthful core of fruit came out suggesting longevity.  **** Now-2023.


2007 Domaine Grand Veneur, Clos de Sixte, Lirac
Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils.  This wine is blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre.  Alcohol 14.5%.  This was a medium-dark purple color.  It had nose of cassis-like, ripe fruit, and vanilla.  In the mouth was more linear fruit which quickly met an up-front wall of tannins.  These were very fine and drying.  An aspect of the nose came out in the finish.  On the second night this was more approachable with dense fruit, a simpler finish, and a structure that subsided. ** Now-2023.


A Must-Try Bubbly from Jura

November 26, 2012 Leave a comment

We have been drinking this wine a lot lately which is cool being the first Cremant du Jura I have tried.  I first brought a bottle to a birthday celebration which was promptly finished before I could take a note.  A week later I brought more to our Thanksgiving dinner and managed to take a note from the last glass. Mostly recently Lou served this at his house.  I have found that both beer and wine drinkers enjoy this.  I believe this is a fairly new selection at Neal Rosenthal, I see nothing on the website, so I do not know much about it.  Domaine Overnoy-Crinquad is a five hectare estate in Pupillin which has operated organically since 1970.  Apparently there is no relationship with Maison Pierre Overnoy.  I will update this post with any additional information, in the mean time I suggest you grab a bottle to try.  I think it appropriate for large holiday gatherings or a quiet evening by the fire.  This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

NV Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand, Rose Brut, Cremant du Jura – $25
Imported by Neal Rosenthal.  Alcohol 11.5%.  The color is a medium copper-rose.  There is a lighter nose followed by a mouth with an initial burst of acidity then immediate hard bubbles which dissipate into a fine mousse.  A textured wine is revealed with earthy red fruit, evocative of an aged Bordeaux, somewhat ripe, red floral fruit, then a yeasty hint.  The flavors become sweeter towards the finish in this ultimately satisfying wine.  *** Now-2017.

I Drink an Excellent Red Wine from Jura

I taste and drink wine every day.  There is such a bountiful selection of well-priced wines in Washington, DC that I take notes on at least one new bottle every day.  I must work during the day despite my inclinations to constantly write about these wines.  This results in a periodically growing pool of unpublished tasting notes.  Last week I picked up many new wines including several from Jura.  John is expanding the Jura selection to include many non or minimally oxidative wines.  We tasted a pair of Chardonnay from Michel Gahier and Domaine Rolet Pere et Fils (I shall write about the Rolet in the near future) then I asked for some red wine recommendations.  One of the wines is this bottle by Domaine Tissot.  I drank it over the weekend and being both surprised and impressed I decided it should be featured in my first post this week.

Andre and Mireille, Image from Domaine Tissot

The Jura mountains run through France, Switzerland, and Germany.  In France most of the wines of Jura are produced in the region between Bresse and the mountains themselves.  It has been over a decade since Jenn and I visited Julie and Aaron but we still have vivid memories of hiking in the Jura mountains and eating the amazing Bresse chicken.  Domaine Tissot is located in Jura where they produce wine from 35 hectrares of biodynamic vineyards located in Arbois, Cotes du Jura, and Chateau Chalon. From these vineyards some 28 different wines are bottled.  There are three permitted varietals for red wine: Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir.  This selection is made from Trousseau grown in the Arbois appellation.  The appellation is named after the city of Arbois, which happens to be where Louis Pastour grew up.  I was thoroughly pleased with the quality of the fruit in the wine and surprised by the level of ripeness.  There is good balanced structure here which suggests this wine will improve over the short-term.  I do not know what it will be like but it is certainly worth laying down a few bottles to find out.  This wine is currently available at MacArthur Beverages.

2009 Domaine Andre et Mireille Tissot, Trousseau, Arbois – $24
Imported by Potomac Selections Ltd.  This wine is 100% Trousseu fermented with indigenous yeasts.  The color is a light to medium ruby and garnet.  The nose reveals floral fruit, a pepper note with a hint of the exotic.  In the mouth there are focused and ripe red and black fruit, a fine, grippy texture with sweet tannins and salivating acidity in the aftertaste.  With air a gentle pepper note develops along with stoney fruit, perfume, and an increased level of tannins.  Drinkable now but should be cellared a few years.   *** Now-2019.

A Casual Tasting of Currently Available Wines

June 23, 2011 3 comments

Lou came over this week to taste wine with Jenn and myself. We typically pick a theme but this time, excited about all of the wines that we have not tried, we decided to taste six currently available wines. We coordinated no further than arranging to have two whites and four reds. All of the red wines were decanted about half an hour before tasting. As there were six wines and only three of us, there were leftovers of every bottle.

Wines on the Table

I was almost overwhelmed by this tasting. We usually taste through a spectrum in quality. But this time all of the wines were very good, very interesting, and all but one were affordable.  I thought the two white wines complemented each other very well with my personal preferrence being the Domaine Faury.  Of the reds I equally enjoyed the Vieilleneuve, Mastro Janni, and Barral.

2007 Domaine de L’Aigle a Deux Tetes, En Griffez Chardonnay, Vieilles Vignes, Jura
This was purchased for $24 at Weygandt-Metzler.  This wine is from a 1 hectare plot of very old Chardonnay vines.  This is a very pale wine.  The medium intensity nose was very fresh with long-lasting yeasty aromas.  In the mouth there were apple-like flavors delivered in a crisp manner with a flint/stone quality.  The wine turned tart with plenty of acidity in the finish.  On the second night the nose was almost overwhelmed by an oxidated/flor aroma.  The flavors immediately mimiced the nose as the entire wine showed a tart and acidic nature.  I preferred it the first night.  ** Now.

2009 Domaine Faury, Blanc, Saint-Joseph
This was purchased for $26 at MacArthur’s.  This wine is a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussane.  The nose was very fresh with delicate aromas.  In the mouth there were flavors of almonds, some sweet white peaches, and stone fruit.  There were very nice flint flavors in this supple wine.  I really liked the mouthfeel.  On the second night the nose became richer.  The almond and stone fruit flavors were more pronounced.  The aftertaste now left a lovely, oily coating on the lips.  A lovely wine and one worth seeking out.  **** Now-2017.

2009 Domaine Vieilleneuve, En Griffe, Cotes du Rhone
Lou bought this wine at the Saint Georges location of Le Vin en Tete in Paris.  He thinks it was less than 20 Euros.  Note, the textured glass “label.”  This wine is produced from a four hecatre plot of 50 year old Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre.  This had a medium, grapey color.  The nose was comprised of clean, higher-pitched red fruit blend of raspberry and Kirsch, along with a little alcohol.  For Jenn it reminded her of “olive alcohol.”  I was not prepared for the full-bore dusty, ripe red fruit flavors that took over my mouth.  There was good acidity, some sweet spices, and a sweet finish.  There was a warmish aftertaste.  This was amazingly preserved on the second night.  The nose was effusive of raspberries.  In the mouth it developed a black tea flavor that complemented the raspberries.  The ripe, sweet, dusty red flavors start out strong but start to fade by the aftertaste.  *** 2015-2022.

2006 Mastro Janni, San Pio, Toscano
This was purchased for $30 at MacArthur’s.  This wine is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Sangiovese which spent 18 months aging in new and old barrels.  There were lower tones on the nose, with an interesting lanolin/”Gunk” hand cleaner scent, and some black fruit.  In the mouth this was tighter, with linear black fruit, tons of minerals, and sweet tannins.  With air the acidity and tart fruit eventually balance out.  It is quite nice and comes across as young.  I really like the minerally, black fruit flavors.  ***(*) 2015-2019.

2008 Rotie Cellars, Southern Blend, Washington
This was purchased for ~$30 at Esquine Wine in Seattle.  This wine is a blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre.  This had the lightest nose of restrained, strong red fruits.  In the mouth the black/red fruit is mixed with fine tannins and delivers some glycerine in the finish.  It is a well made wine but lighter than the three other red wines.  There is a slight, metallic hint.  It never expanded in flavor or potential during the first night.  On the second night the restrained feeling was lifted and it still showed a light profile all around.  There black/red fruit was still dominant and the very fine tannins more obvious.  A good wine but not as interesting as the other three.  **(*) 2015-2019.

2007 Domaine Leon Barral, Valiniere, Faugeres
This wine was purchased for $62 at MacArthur’s.  It is a blend of 80% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah.  The Mourvedre vines are 15 years old and the Syrah are 30 years old.  The soils are of schiste, the vineyards are fertilized with manure from the estate, indigenous yeasts are used, and no sulfur is used.  Wow, there was good stuff here in this dark wine.  The nose contained darker perfumed fruits and sage.  There were layers of scented berries in the mouth that were expansive.  The dusty flavors continued into the rich finish and aftertaste.  This showed better when it was a cooler temperature.  On the second night the dusty fruit flavors became saltier and a little more austere.  The dark flavors continued in the finish and aftertaste.  The wine continued to build and progress in the mouth.  Great stuff!  This is worth seeking out and really should be cellared a few more years.  ****(*) 2015-2022.

Lou Taking Notes