Lou’s Favorite Wines of 2016
As Aaron and I drink many wines together, it’s inevitable that we have some shared wines on our top lists. The 1978 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill was obviously California with rich fruit and concentration but balanced by forest floor and a balanced acidity. What was especially interesting for me with this wine was that it was served with its brother, the 1978 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace. This wine shared many of the characteristics of its sibling, but with more cassis, less earth and somewhat brighter toned.
I shared Aaron’s enthusiasm for the 1964 Mommessin Clos de Tart. This is everything Burgundy should be—hugely complex as it balances a sense of fragility and depth. This oxymoronic nature of great, mature Burgundy was abounding in this wine. I too loved the 1964 Beaucastel. It’s too rare that I drink great, old Chateauneuf. In an evening with an amazing vertical of great Beaucastel, this wine stood above the rest. It was a beautiful mix of bright fruit, iodine and seaweed.
Moving on to two wines unique to my list are two more wines from 1964. Both Burgundies were drunk at Berns’ and served from 375’s. The first was a Senard Aloxe Corton Les Valozieres. The second was a lowly villages Morey St Denis from Valby. Both wines benefited from the cold conditions of the cellar there and were in pristine condition. Though neither showed the pedigree of the Clos de Tart, they both showed as fully mature, complex and exciting.
The 1989 Cos d’Estournel also was part of a vertical of exceptional wines. Though I greatly enjoyed many of vintages served that night, the 1989 stood out to me (and just edged out the 2005). It had concentrated fruit, some green notes and a fascinating smoky spice like incense. The finish went on and on.
The 1970 Souverain Zinfandel was also from a 375 at Berns’. This tasted still young and fresh and showed the heights that classic Zin can achieve.
My final two wines were probably more about the experience that the wines themselves. The first was a 2011 Fevre Montmains Chablis that I had at Han Ting restaurant in The Hague. This meal was probably my best of the year for exciting food and flawless service. The wine perfectly accompanied the Asian styled food. It had bright acidity, a delightful minerality and will doubtless just get better with time, as it was just a baby.
Finally was a carafe of the house red at O’Tinello Osteria in Lago Albano just outside of Rome. This fruity and fresh wine made locally had enough acidity to lighten the platters of cured meats, creamy pasta and the porchetta that the region is famous for. It was a great reminder of the time honored pairings of local food and wines. We were close to the Papal Palace of Castel Gandolfo and I could imagine the Pope having a similar lunch in the bright March sun……