A few mature French wines


I was to bring a bottle of 1982 Chateau Calon-Segur, St Estephe over to Lou’s house. The first was, perhaps, drinkable to some extent.  It was not by the time I arrived at Lou’s house.  The second bottle bore absolutely no relationship to wine so down the drain it went.  Both of these bottles were quite cheap, due to their mid-shoulder fill, proving they were dangerously low fills for a wine of such young age.

We kicked things off with a bottle of 1995 Michel Colin-Deleger, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Charmois from the Earthquake Cellar.  It smelled of the sea with rather mature flavors in the mouth which were delivered with a freshness owing to good storage.  We soon moved on to the pair of Bordeaux selected by Lou.  The fill of the 1983 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac was in the upper shoulder.  While not ideal it was still worth the gamble.  You could see from the color and the smell of roast earth on the nose that it was not the freshest bottle.  It did clean up after several hours of air proving to be a solid, mature Bordeaux of no particular distinction.  This is due to storage and not the chateau.  There was no mistaking the deeper and more pigmented color of the 1979 Chateau L’Evangile, Pomerol as it was poured.  This was reflected in the deep nose and lively fruit in the mouth.  It was the wine Lou and I kept drinking that evening.  It was perfect stuff, really.  I kept drinking it until my daughter kept texting me to return home so that I could read to her before bed.  We were all happy that evening.

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1995 Michel Colin-Deleger, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Charmois
Imported by Chateau and Estates.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The lovely golden color makes way to a surprisingly aromatic nose which is evocative of the sea.  The white and yellow fruit is mature with a linear style of delivery.  The wine itself took on some density.  I suspect it was never that complex for it is the attractive mouthfeel that I remember most.  ** Now.

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1983 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac
Upper should fill.  The nose reveals a little roast, noticeably more advanced than it should be, eventually taking on smoky, menthol aromas.  In the mouth the wine does expand a bit after several hours of air.  There is red fruit flavors, salivating and not quite tart acidity with lively, grippy tannins.  Though this bottle is not generous and the finish is a little short, I cannot think of anyone who would refuse to knock back a glass.  ** Now.

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1979 Chateau L’Evangile, Pomerol
Shipped by Beylot.  Imported by Majestic Wine and Spirits.  Alcohol 12%.  Top shoulder fill.  There is a soft, start of red fruit, a minerally middle, expansive finish, and persistent aftertaste.  The wine is quite lively with salivating, almost sappy acidity.  There is still good fruit that is slightly tart and mixes quite well with the old wood notes.  It is even a little racy at the end.  **** Now but will last.

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