Five bottles from old and new estates
Lou and I met up last week for some Spring Break bottles. We each bagged up our wines for fun. I was fairly confident that the 2013 Chateau Graville-Lacoste, Graves Blanc was mostly Sauvignon Blanc. I could not place a location though and in truth, I am not sure if I have drunk a Graves Blanc before. It turns out it only has a minority of Sauvignon Blanc in the blend which speaks to its strength. This bottle proved to be on the young side so I’d check back in a year or two. For the 2012 San Salvatore, Trentenare, IGP Paestum Fiano I guessed some chalky Italian white wine. On the first night this wine was in perfect balance with a sort of fruit and acidity combination I usually find in German wines. It drank perfect. On the second night it was a touch softer and nuttier.
Incredibly I never knew that Chateau de Vaudieu is an 18th century estate. French books from the 19th century often include the de Vaudieu name as amongst the best of Chateauneuf du Pape. This includes la Nerthe and de Condorcet. Today the estate is owned by Famile Brechet and Philippe Cambie is the consultant. The 2012 Chateau de Vaudieu, Chateauneuf du Pape is clearly young and rugged so I would cellar it for a year or two. The 2012 Chateau de Vaudieu, Amiral G., Chateauneuf du Pape is all old-vine Grenache which delivers hedonistic flavors. It is weighty yet textured with plenty of salivating acidity and just enough structure that it comes across as more drinkable than the first. It is a lovely wine with a very long aftertaste which coats the gums. Finally, the popped-and-poured 2012 Xavier Vignon, Xavier, Cotes du Rhone Villages Rasteau held its own. Its a brighter wine that was initially rounded and subdued in a way that I thought Chateau Mont-Redon. Of course I was wrong, it was a sexy Rasteau, that finally revealed its origins after a few hours of air. It was not out of place with the regular Chateau de Vaudieu. The Graville-Lacoste was purchased at Pearsons, the Xavier Vignon at Fleet Street Wine Merchants, and the remaining bottles at MacArthur Beverages.
2013 Chateau Graville-Lacoste, Graves Blanc – $18
Imported by Kermit Lynch. This wine is a blend of 75% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle sourced from ~45 year old vines on soils of clay and limestone on fissured rock. It was vinified and aged in stainless steel. Alcohol ?%. At first there were grassy, Sauvignon Blanc aromas but with air, deeper notes from the Semillon developed. In the mouth were lighter, white fruit with a clear start and tart finish. Seems young. **(*) 2016-2020.
2012 San Salvatore, Trentenare, IGP Paestum Fiano – $23
Imported by Banville and Jones. This wine is 100% Fiano sourced from vines on calcareous clay that was vinified and aged in stainless steel. Alcohol 13%. This was a crisp wine with perfectly, enlivening acidity. The wine was textured with a long aftertaste of chalk. With air the wine remained lively on the tongue but showed nuttier flavors. It had lovely balance, a more prominent fruit profile, and an attractive citric tang in the aftertaste. **** Now.
2012 Chateau de Vaudieu, Chateauneuf du Pape – $40
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is a blend of 74% Grenache and 26% Syrah with the later aged for 14 months in barriques. Alcohol 15%. The nose revealed higher-toned aromas that were followed by similar flavors on the tongue tip. The wine developed weight in the midpalate then eventually showed its rugged, youth in the finish. There was also good acidity and an aftertaste that brought dense, grapey flavors, spices, and a touch of heat. This wine is approachable now but best cellared for the short term. *** Now-2025.
2012 Chateau de Vaudieu, Amiral G., Chateauneuf du Pape – $90
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. This wine is old-vine 100% Grenache which was aged for 18 months in demi-muids. Alcohol 15%. There was a smooth, weighty yet textured start with dry cinnamon spices. The wine comes across as more forward but it still has very fine tannins supporting the blue fruit flavors. It show grip in the back of the throat as it ends of salivating acidity and flavors that stick to the gums. Long aftertaste. **** 2017-2027.
2012 Xavier Vignon, Xavier, Cotes du Rhone Villages Rasteau – ~$23
Imported by Petit Pois Corp. This wine is a blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre that was aged 50% in tank, 25% in demi-muid, and 25% in smaller barrels. Alcohol ?%. There were young grapey aromas that had a hint of raisins. In the mouth was a rounded start with flavors that became bluer towards the finish. With air the wine took on attractiveness roughness with a firm structure of very fine tannins supporting the wine. It finished with spicy, black fruit that had both smooth and rugged aspects. *** 2017-2025.