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Tasting wines from Bourgogne to Priorat with Lou


Lou came over last week for another casual tasting.  I had opened up the 2012 Domaine Belle, Les Terres Blanches, Crozes Hermitage Blanc as Jenn and I prepared the table.  White Rhone wines are new territory for me.  There was nothing but pleasure when we each tried our first taste.  On the first night it was more vibrant and textured whereas on the second night it was smooth and mature.  If you are looking for a new white wine then you must pick up a bottle.

WithLou8

2012 Domaine Belle, Les Terres Blanches, Crozes Hermitage Blanc – $26
Imported by DS Trading Co. This wine is a blend of 70% Marsanne and 30% Roussanne sourced from vines on soils of clay and limestone.  The fruit was fermented in 20% new oak barrels, 50% one-year old oak barrels and 30% in stainless steel vats then aged for 11 months in the same vessels.  Alcohol 13%. There was textured, slightly lively white fruit at the start. The smooth flavors matched the nut aspect that was balanced by noticeable acidity on the tongue. There was a gentle finish of stones followed by a persistent aftertaste. The wine seemed young on the first night but was perfectly mature on the following night.  ***(*) Now-2020.

Blind Flight

Lou supplied this flight in brown bags with his only revealing clue that they were all pre-2005.  Blind tasting is fun since I am not embarrassed by my guesses.  That the first wine was Riesling was fairly obvious but my conclusion of it being an old New York state wine was off the mark and continent.  The 1997 Albert Mann, Riesling, Schlossberg Grand Cru showed a bit of a split personality with its youthful start and finish of beyond-mature flavors.  It is a solid wine that is best drunk up.  The fresh, articulate nose of the 2000 Chateau du Going de Saint-Fiacre, Comte de Saint-Hubert, Vieilles Vignes, Muscadet Sevre et Maine did not prepare me for smooth, nutty flavors in the mouth.  On the first night I thought this a great wine to smell and taste with some evocations of the sea.  On the second night the nose became too funky for me.  This current release is only $20 so I will grab another bottle to try again.  Worst case, drink this wild wine on the very first night!  I guessed everything wrong about the 2001 Claude Dugat, Bourgogne.  For a basic Bourgogne it is rather serious stuff.  It responded well to air on the first night where it showed a bit of everything.

WithLou6

1997 Albert Mann, Riesling, Schlossberg Grand Cru, Alsace –
Imported by Weygandt/Metzler.  This wine is 100% Riesling sourced from vines on soils of granite.  Alcohol 12.5%. The color was a light to medium golden amber. It smelled of mature Riesling with a hint of stones. It had a more crisp start that carried young flavors. These morphed into mature flavors with some old wood and still some ripe, tannic grip in the short finish. On the second evening it had a good mouthfeel with more prominent old flavors, dried herbs, and a tart finish.  ** Now.

WithLou5

2000 Chateau du Going de Saint-Fiacre, Comte de Saint-Hubert, Vieilles Vignes, Muscadet Sevre et Maine – $20
Imported by Williams Corner Wine.  This wine is 100% Melon de Bourgogne sourced from 100+ year old vines.  The wine was aged sur lie.  Alcohol 12%. There was a fresh, articulate nose of white fruit that on the second night was funky, dusty, and smelled of the sea. In the mouth, the almond flavors were smooth, engagingly floral, and mixed with white fruit. The wine was cool in nature with integrated acidity and a shorter, watery finish. With air the flavors became cheesy. *** Now.

WithLou1

2001 Claude Dugat, Bourgogne –
Imported by Robert Kacher Selections.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from parcels on Gevrey.  It was fermented in concrete vats then aged for 14 months in used neutral French oak barrels.  Alcohol 12.5%. The color was a medium garnet. The initial aromas were high-pitched before revealing some deep fruit. In the mouth the hint of Morello cherries were tart yet had ripeness before building racy mineral notes. The wine was lighter in the finish with flavors of tart berries, some structure, old perfume, and dry black flavors. The tannins remained on the gums.  *** Now-2018.

Priorat and Montsant Flight

This flight was organized around two new arrivals of Mas del Camperol.  Produced by Celler Mas Garrian this is the same winery that produced the excellent 2005 Clos Severj, Priorat that I reviewed in my post Two Great Spanish Wines.  Priorat and Montsant are neighboring regions so I added the 2004 Celler Laurona, Montsant to the mix.  All three of these wines benefited from air and I thought tasted better on the second night.  The 2004 Celler Mas Garrian, Mas del Camperol, Priorat was the most interesting of the bunch.  It exhibited consistently greater complexity, poise, and will continue to develop for years.  The Priorat sun comes through at first but it does balance out.  The 2003 Celler Mas Garrian, Mas del Camperol, Priorat  exhibited brighter, cleaner flavors with notes of dried herbs.   Tasted alongside the 2004 the reduced complexity is noticeable so I would drink this alone.  I agree with Lou that the 2004 Celler Laurona, Montsant was the more coarse wine of the three.  It did come together on the second night where it had some complexity as well as old wood notes.  I do not think it will make old bones like the 2004 Mas del Camperol so why not drink it on a crisp spring night!

WithLou3

2003 Celler Mas Garrian, Mas del Camperol, Priorat – $37
Imported by Williams Corner Wine.   This wine is a blend of blend of 30% Garnacha, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carinena, and 15% Syrah from the estate’s older vineyards that was aged for 13 months in a mixture of new and used French and American oak.  Alcohol 15%. The nose revealed Kirsch and dried herbs. In the mouth this flavorful wine was grippy with building power and brighter acidity. With air, the racy cherry flavors continues. The aromas and flavors were consistent throughout, leaning towards the clean side. The structure was noticeable on the gums as the aftertaste had good length. *** Now-2025.

WithLou4

2004 Celler Mas Garrian, Mas del Camperol, Priorat – $39
Imported by Williams Corner Wine.  This wine is a blend of blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carinena, and Syrah from the estate’s older vineyards that was aged for 13 months in a mixture of new and used French and American oak.  Alcohol 15%. The initially ripe, rasinated fruit became more attractive with aromas of ripe, musky, generous fruit. There were deep fruit flavors, some maturity, and greater complexity with air. There was good structure for development. **** Now-2025+.

WithLou2

2004 Celler Laurona, Montsant –
Imported by Europvin.  This wine is a blend of of 50% Grenache, 25% Merlot, 15% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Alcohol 14%. The nose was a little plummy with some funk. It did not have as much depth and came across as coarse but with air it became less forward with better balance. There was decent complexity, some old wood but it still seemed fresh. It maintained a coarse nature with less strength. ***(*) Now-2025.

WithLou7

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