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A young wine from Etna with a good future

There is quite a range of both white and red wines from Etna available at MacArthur Beverages.  There is something of a premium on price for these wines so I make sure to always try what falls below $25 per bottle.  Today’s post features the 2012 I Custodi, Pistus, Etna Rosso produced by Il Custodi delle vigne dell’Etna.   I recommend you take a look at the website for a good introduction to and images of the vineyards.  You might recall the label for this is the younger brother of the 2007 I Custodi, Aetneus, Etna Rosso that I reviewed in my post Tasting Austrian and Italian Wines With Lou .   There are two key differences between these wines.  The first is that the Pistus is made using fruit from 10 year old vines whereas the Aetneus comes from vines up to 150 years of age.  Second, the Pistus is raised entirely in concrete vat whereas the Aetneus is fermented in stainless steel then aged for some time in barriques.   I think the Pistus is spot on.  It is literally young so while it could stand from short-term aging, it does offer up interesting floral aromatics and the mineral, blacker fruit I like in a wine from Etna.  I recommend you try it!  This wine was purchased at MacArthur Beverages.


2012 I Custodi, Pistus, Etna Rosso – $22
Imported by Williams Corner Wines.  This wine is a blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio sourced from ten year old vines on sandy, volcanic soils.  The fruit was whole-cluster crushed, fermented, and aged for nine months in concrete vats.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The nose was less herbaceous than it was evocative of orchids in a greenhouse.  The wine took on weight to its ripe blue fruit that had minerally, black undertones.  The sense of firmness was balanced by acidity.  With air the notes of dried herbs took on vintage books in the dusty finish.  Everything wrapped up with salivating acidity.  **(*) 2015-2019.


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