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A Pair from Chateau d’or et de Gueules


I have been fortunate to taste the wines of Chateau d’Or et de Gueules at the annual portfolio tasting of Robert Kacher so I have some level of familiarity.  Château d’Or et de Gueules is an older estate which was purchased by Diane de Puymorin in 1998. Originally named Domaine de la Petite Cassagne she carved out a new estate named after her family crest. She planted an additional 30 acres of vines made up of some Syrah and all of the white varietals. She kept the ten hectares of 80 year old Carignan and nine hectares of 90 year old Mourvedre. She has also planted some more Mourvedre. The vineyards are located in the far south-east of Costières de Nîmes so they are influenced by a maritime climate. Diane feels this gives her wines a certain freshness. The old-vines are goblet trained and all of the vines are on soils of round pebbles. She planted grass between the vines for competition but this was not really necessary for her vineyards. She does not use any chemicals. She uses fruit from her old-vine Mourvedre and Carignan in all of her wines. She employs carbonic maceration for the Carignan because it is naturally too tannic so she wants to make it more elegant and avoid over extraction.

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I drink Diane de Puymorin’s wines at home as well.  This pair from the 2012 vintage are rich and full of flavor.  The 2012 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules, Trassegum, Costieres de Nimes is a strapping young wine that delivers a lot of flavor for the money.  The 2010 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules, Qu’es a Quo, Costieres de Nimes delivers an unmistakably different experience.  I would like to think the carbonic maceration of the Carignan comes through on the nose.  Whatever the reason the aromas prepare you for the flavors which are truly persistent.   I feature wines on this blog that I purchase so I have no problem recommending that you purchase them as well.  I also recommend that you serve them at cellar temperature.  These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

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2012 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules, Trassegum, Costieres de Nimes – $15
Imported by Robert Kacher Selections.  This wine is a blend of 50% Syrah, 25% old-vine Carignan, and 25% old-vine Mourvedre.  The Carignan undergoes carbonic maceration.  The wine was aged one year in barrel and some time in tank.  Alcohol 14.5%.  There was a subtle nose of ripe fruit.  The wine was flavorful in the mouth with drying black fruit, graphite, and spicy, heady aftertaste.  Best on the first night.  ** Now-2016.

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2010 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules, Qu’es a Quo, Costieres de Nimes – $25
Imported by Robert Kacher Selections.  This wine is 100% Carignan of which 80% underwent carbonic maceration and 20% by pigeage.  It was then aged for six months in used oak barrels.  Alcohol 13.5%.  Clearly different the nose evoked dusty aromas of mulberries and a little incense.  This was a flavorful, mouth filling wine with cool but dense flavors of minerally black fruit and dusty tannins.  There were persistent flavors of  blue and black fruit.  The wine had extract, texture, and graphite before leaving a coating of tannins on the gums.  ***(*) 2015-2024.

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