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Gigondas From Two Old Family Estates


My introduction to the Southern Rhone took place through the wines of Gigondas.  I have been drinking the wines of Domaine de Font-Sane and Domaine Brusset since the 1998 vintage.    Domaine de Font-Sane is a family run winery founded in 1860.  Their vineyards are located closer to the center of the appellation and I believe this shows in the 2011 Domaine de Font-Sane, Tradition, Gigondas.  There is no doubt this is a robust example of Gigondas that has the ability to develop with age.  Despite that capability, I thoroughly enjoyed drinking it right now for it already has good complexity and an earthy note.  Domaine Brusset  is another family run winery founded in 1947.  Its vineyards are slightly higher being located at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail.  Perhaps reflecting the cooler site the brighter flavors were very clean and the wine in need of age.  My recommendation is to stock up on the Domaine de Font-Sane.  It is available at a great price for such a complex wine and if you are tempted to open a bottle on a crisp Spring day you are sure to be pleased.  These wines were purchased at MacArthur Beverages.

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2011 Domaine de Font-Sane, Tradition, Gigondas – $22
Imported by Simon ‘N Cellars.  This wine is a blend of 72% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 3% Mourvedre, and 2% Cinsault which was raised for 12 months in vats followed by 6-8 months in large barrels.  Alcohol 15%.  The nose bore earthy aromas of herbs and red fruit.  In the mouth the roundish, grippy flavors of red and blue fruit initially mixed with earth notes.  There was a lot of texture with ripe and drying tannins before baking spice flavors came out.  The structure was evident on the gums.  This wine already has good complexity to its lively flavors but will certainly age.  ***(*) Now-2026.

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2012 Domaine Brusset, Tradition Le Grand Montmirail, Gigondas – $25
Imported by Simon ‘N Cellars.  This wine is a blend of 70% tank-aged Grenache and 30% barrel-aged Mourvedre, Syrah, and Cinsault.  Alcohol 14%.  The lighter black flavors existed in a robust frame.  There was a bit of tang as the acidity came out with plenty of clean fruit.  The wine brightened towards the finish and mixed with some extract and spicy tannins.  **(*) 2016-2024.

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