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Incognito: High-End Cotes du Rhone from Paul Jaboulet Aine


There is not much information out there about the Incognito line of wines from Paul Jaboulet Aine.  What is known is that they are a range of declassified wines sold as Cotes du Rhone.  One could take guesses as to where the fruit came from.  For example there was no Hermitage La Chapelle produced in 2008 and there is conveniently a 2008 Incognito H Rouge from Hermitage.  As for the wines themselves, both white wines had very clean fruit and while distinctive, they each came across as rather young.  My notes are based on rather subtle flavors s I would reevaluate in a few years.  I thought the pair of red wines were a step up in quality.  The “C” was attractively meaty and despite the strong structure, the flavors might mature faster.  The “H” was about pepper, fruit, and texture.  Both of the red wines are a pleasure to taste after decanting but should develop quite well in the cellar.  It is the red wines which I recommend purchasing.    These wines are available at MacArthur Beverages.

Incognito1

2011 Paul Jaboulet Aine, C (Condrieu) Blanc, Incognito, Cotes du Rhone – $49
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons.  This wine is 100% Viognier. Alcohol 12.5%.  The nose was of white fruit and flint, eventually developing a floral hint.  In the mouth were tight, young flavors, firm white fruit, stones, and even more stones in the finish.  There was acidity and a short, tart bit on the tongue.  It had a little grip, weight, and a long aftertaste.  *** 2016-2022.

Incognito2

2011 Paul Jaboulet Aine, H (Hermitage) Blanc, Incognito, Cotes du Rhone – $49
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons.  This wine is a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne sourced from a small parcel on Les Murets.  Alcohol 13%.  The nose bore subtle white fruit and mineral aromas.  In the mouth were pure, focused flavors of white fruit which had weight and a touch of glycerine.  There was good presence in the mouth with a long, persistent aftertaste of subtle spices and stones.  It was almost tingly on the tongue.  ***(*) 2016-2024.

Incognito3

2009 Paul Jaboulet Aine, C (Cote Rotie) Rouge, Incognito, Cotes du Rhone – $49
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons.  This wine is 100% Syrah.  Alcohol 13%.  There was an attractive, meaty note.  In the mouth were flavors of meaty, red fruit, and a softer expansion.  It left the impression it will drink sooner.  The finish revealed graphite with hints of fine, strong structure.  An earthy note developed but there was a bit less flavor towards the end.  ***(*) Now-2028.

Incognito4

2008 Paul Jaboulet Aine, H (Hermitage) Rouge, Incognito, Cotes du Rhone – $49
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons.  This wine is 100% Syrah.  Alcohol 13.5%.  There was clean fruit on the nose with a little pepper aroma.  In the mouth the initial red fruit turned into black fruit which gently and slowly built depth and finely articulated grip.  There was a pleasing aftertaste.  The wine developed a gentle concentration, a little hint of sweet tarts, and some attractive floral violet flavors.  ***(*) Now-2028.

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