Home > Good, GoodDevelop > Beautiful Wine from Graham Tatomer

Beautiful Wine from Graham Tatomer


After reading about Graham Tatomer and his wines in Tatomer Wines: Current Releases on Vinography I became excited.   Not that I could imagine what an Austrian influenced Californian Riesling would smell or taste like but because the wines sounded different.  I let the wines settle for several weeks before I brought them over to Lou’s house as part of a casual tasting.  I must admit, I wanted these wines to taste great.  I tried them over two nights and on the second night we let my five-year old daughter smell the wine.  Of the Kick-on Ranch her unprompted comment was, “smells like its flowers.”  To us it did as well.  Graham Tatomer farms the vineyards and produces the wine himself.  The Vandenberg is produced from a botrytis influenced selection within Kick-on Ranch.  The Kick-on Ranch see some whole-cluster maceration.  While the Vandenberg gave off a youthful impression I suspect the Kick-on Ranch will benefit most from short-term aging.  I wish these wines were available in Washington, DC.  Fortunately they are distributed in New York City by A.I. Selections.  These wines were purchased direct from Tatomer Wines.

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2009 Tatomer Wines, Kick-on Ranch, Riesling, Santa Barbara County – $30
This wine is 100% Riesling.  There were 225 cases produced.  Alcohol 13.5%.  The color was a very light gold-yellow.  The nose revealed rosemary and other fresh herbs with a little, low-lying richness.  On the second day it smelled like a flower shop.  In the mouth there was a fresh start before the wine built weight, took on dried floral flavors, and revealed minerals in the finish. It showed more focus with a lovely feel and flavors of floral perfume.  There were ripe spices in the aftertaste.  ***(*) Now-2018.

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2009 Tatomer Wines, Vandenberg, Riesling, Santa Barbara County – $25
This wine is 100% Riesling.  There were 400 cases produced.  Alcohol 14%.  The nose was very light and subtle with low-lying aromas.  In the mouth there was bright, white fruit in the start.  There was more weight in the mouth with richer flavors but they were balanced by acidity.  There were strong flavors of gray minerals [that is the mental image which popped up] which were textured and finished dry.  The long, persistent aftertaste left flavors on the back of the throat.  This tasted younger.  *** Now-2018.

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