Home > ModGood, Tasting Notes and Wine Reviews > Mature Gattinara from Luigi Nervi

Mature Gattinara from Luigi Nervi


It has been a long time since I drank a wine from Gattinara.  These wines are produced from Spanna, as it is known in the northern Piedmont, which is the same varietal found some 100 miles south in Barolo.  Here it is called Nebbiolo.  Wine has been produced in Gattinara since the 2nd century when the Romans introduced the Spionia grape.  Gattinara itself is located in the extreme north-west portion of Italy in the middle of the Novara-Vercelli hills.  While specific vineyards were first documented in the 13th century it was not until 1967 that Gattinara was granted DOC status followed by DOCG status in 1991.  Nervi predates the official recognition having been founded in 1906.  It is the oldest winery still in existence producing wine from the Molsino, Valferana, Garavoglie, and Casaccie vineyards.  Together they form some 24 hectares or roughly one-quarter of the authorized area.  The vineyards of Gattinara range from 200 to 300 meters in elevation.  The soils are very acidic, volcanic in areas, with steep rocky slopes.  The wine featured in this post is sourced from the Molsino vineyard.  This vineyard has granite-rich soils located on hills shaped like an amphitheater   With an elevation of 340-425 meters it is amongst the highest of the region.

Molsino Vineyard, Image from Luigi Nervi

Molsino Vineyard, Image from Luigi Nervi

I knew nothing of the extreme August heat and torrential downpours of the 2000 Piedmontese vintage which are said to have produced wines of good structure.  I just assumed that this Nebbiolo based wine should be in fine condition and it was.  While it was not as complex as I hoped for, the nose was good and proud, the acidity watering, and the flavors expansive.  I rather enjoyed this wine and while I was drinking it, felt no need to compare it to anything else.  This wine was purchased at MacArthur Beverages.

Nervi1

2000 Luigi Nervi, Vigneto Molsino, Gattinara – $20
Imported by Monarchia Matt International.  This wine is 100% Nebbiolo sourced from the Molsino vineyard.  The fruit was 15% whole cluster fermented with natural yeasts for at least 30 days in oak vats from the 1960s. It underwent malolactic fermentation then was aged for three years in large Slavonian oak casks.  Alcohol 13%.  The color was a light to medium garnet, dried-rose.  The nose was light to medium in strength with fresh, earthy aromas then notes of black tea.  In the mouth this medium bodied wine had hard cherry flavors, watering acidity, a little wood note, with expansive and light weight flavors.  It is a maturing wine but not overly complex.  The clean flavors take on sour cherry, with some ripe fruit, and fine, ripe tannins.  This is a decent, complete wine.  ** Now-2023.

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