Home > Good, Tasting Notes and Wine Reviews > Two Wines from Cosimo Taurino and Carlo Hauner

Two Wines from Cosimo Taurino and Carlo Hauner

We occasionally go through periods of drinking southern Italian wine.  We like them but have paid little attention to the regions and producers.  This spring we will chronicle our exploration of these regions.  Of these two wines I would recommend spending the extra $3 to purchase the Carlo Hauner, Hiera.

Puglia Piana, Gerard Mercator, Duisberg 1595

Apulia (Puglia) is a long region in the south-eastern portion of Italy.  It produces a tremendous amount of wine but the majority is used for blending or distilling.  Only Sicily produces more wine.  The finest wines are produced in the Salento penninsulva which makes up the heel of the Italian boot.  Cool nighttime breezes from the Adriatic and Ionian seas contrast with the intense daytime heat.  Dr. Cosimo Taurino planted his first vineyards in 1972. The Notarpanaro name stems from a 19th century deed which titled the land “Notare Panaro.”  This wine  is a blend of 85% Negroamaro and 15% Malvasia  Nera from 20-year-old vineyards.  It is aged for 36 months.  It is  a good wine for $17 at MacArthur’s.

Sardenia and Sicily (with Aeolian islands), Girolamo Ruscelli, 1564

Sicily has an ancient vinous history with records of flourishing Greek vineyards in the 5th century BC.  The mountainous terrain, poor soil, intense heat, and low rain fall have long made it a productive wine region.  The Aeolian Islands are a volcanic archipelago off the north coast of Sicily.  Carlo Hauner was a successful artists who first visited the Aeolian islands in 1968.  He curiosity about the local winemaking techniques and the Malvasia grape led him to move to the island of Salina.  After renovating twenty acres of vineyard he opened a new winery in the 1980s. He blended traditional Aeolian techniques with modern technology. He passed away in 1996 leaving the winery to be run by his son, Carlo Junior.  The vineyards are located at 50-100 meters in altitude and have soils that are volcanic and pumice.  The Hiera is a blend of Calabrese (Nero D’Avola), Sangiovese, and Corinto Nero.  It is aged in barriques for one year.  The Hiera is $20 and well priced at that, available at MacArthur’s.

2004 Taurino, Notarpanaro, Rosso del Salento, Puglia (Apulia)
This wine is a light to medium ruby color with cherry highlights.  It has a lighter nose of darker, smooth fruits.  In the mouth there are dark blackberry  flavors.  It was a little more rustic on the second night.  *** Now-2017.

2008 Carlo Hauner, Hiera, Sicilia
This wine has a light to medium nose of scented, gritty red berried fruit.  In the mouth there are plenty of red fruits with good, ripe tannins in a supportive nature.  There are flavors of red currant, spices, and some blue fruits.  The flavors turn towards the tart in the finish.  The aftertaste has long flavors, minerals, and a little inkiness.  A lovely wine.  *** Now-2015.

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