A Tasty White Wine From Oregon

St Innocent Winery has been around since Mark Vlossak founded it in 1988.  In 2006 a new winery was built allowing the fruit to move by gravity, the fermented wine matures in a naturally cooled and humidified barrel room, with the finished wine is bottled by gravity.  This wine is produced using fruit from the Freedom Hill Vineyard which is located on the western side of Willamette Valley.  Lying at 425 feet this vineyard is the first to be cooled by evening breezes.  According to the website texture is a central component of their wines and it is lovingly present in this bottle.   I highly recommend you try this wine.  It is drinking well and slow to evolve.  The open bottle held up well for several days so I suspect this will develop over the next few years and drink for several after that.  At this strong price it is worth buying several to taste over the years. This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2009 St. Innocent, Chardonnay, Freedom Hill Vineyard, Willamette Valley – $24
This wine is 100% Chardonnay sourced from blocks planted in 1999 and 2006 on sedimentary clay loam.  The fruit was whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented, underwent malolactic fermentation, then aged sur lees for 12 months in used French oak barrels.  The wine is a light, vibrant golden color.  There is firm structure with lots of texture for the supple white fruit.  The wine is a little spicy with a touch of wood.  With air the white and floral fruit takes on a subtle spice in the middle with a  lovely texture, great restraint, and well-integrated, watering acidity.  *** Now-2017.

Three From the Northwest

These three bottles were purchased during my fall trips to Seattle.  The Southard was purchased for $20 and the Ayres for $28 at Soul Wine.  The Rulo was purchased for $18.69 at Pete’s Wine Shop in Eastlake.  The Southard and Ayres wineries and wines were new to me.  The Southard was a decent drink but I would recommend spending the extra money on the Ayres.  It is a beautiful wine that I would cellar for a few years.  I certainly look forward to tasting more 2010 Oregon Pinot Noirs.  While I had previously tasted the 2008 Rulo, Syrah before Jenn had not and so I was excited to share a bottle with her.  She did enjoy it and I would recommend it if you want something of good value that tilts towards the rustic.

2009 Southard, Roussanne, Lawrence Vineyard, Columbia Valley
This wine is 100% Roussanne from the first crop at the Lawrence Vineyard.  This is a crisp wine with an initial period of weighty fruit then mildly, sweet flavors develop before it turns to steely stones, white fruit, and a tad of toast. * Now-2015.

2010 Ayres Vineyard and Winery, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This is produced by the McLeroy and McClure families, where Brad McLeory worked under Veronique Drouhin at Domaine Drouhin Oregon.  The estate contains 15 acres of Pinot Noir planted in 2001.  This wine is produced from both estate and Eola Hills fruit.  This started with brighter red fruit and acidic cherries in an engaging manner.  The textured red fruit some red grapefruit acidity, with the acidity pleasing to swish around the mouth.  The flavors become lifted with air.  All in all this is a young and promising wine. **(*) 2014-2019.

2008 Rulo, Syrah, Walla Walla
This wine is 100% Syrah sourced from the Clifton & Clifton Hill and Ranch at the End of the Road vineyards.  There are blue fruits on the nose.  In the mouth there are ample blue fruit and stone flavors that are a bit spicy with some heat.  The acidity reveals on the sides of the tongue before there is a racy, sweet cinnamon note in the lifted aftertaste.  With time this bottle showed some midpalate heat and minor toast notes. **(*) Now-2015.

Drinks with Erin and Sean

This past weekend long-time friends Erin and Sean trekked over to our house to catch up.  The wines were poured right after opening and were enjoyed by all.  Erin commented that she drank a lot of Gigondas during her trip to France last month.

2007 Talley Vineyards, Chardonnay, Rincon Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley
This wine is 100% Chardonnay sourced from the 89 acre Rincon Vineyard.  The vines were planted in 1991 and are located on soils of shallow clay loam over sandstone.  The wine was 100% barrel fermented, malolactic fermentation in barrel followed by 16 months of aging on lees in 30% new French oak.  Drunk over three nights this bottle improved with time.  The color is of golden straw.  The rich nose makes way to fresher fruit in the mouth with immediate supporting acidity.  There is a mild, buttery texture the precedes flavors of stones, apples, and notes of toast.  There is prickly acidity on the tongue tip.  Jenn really enjoyed this on the second night.  Needs a bit more time. ***(*) 2015-2019.

2008 Willamette Valley Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir that was fermented in small bins then aged in 10% new Alliers French oak barrels.  Red fruit on the nose followed by a mouth of concentrated notes of cherry and some spice.  This lighter bodied wine has balanced acidity, and unobtrusive tannins.  A solid bottle that could stand another year or two of aging. *(*) 2014-2019.

2009 Domaine Santa Duc, Cuvee Tradition, Gigondas
The cuvee Tradition is a blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre, and 5% Cinsault that was hand harvested before aging for 18 months in casks and tuns. I picked this up at the Bobby Kacher tasting.  This was drunk over a few hours.  It was enjoyably concentrated with good fruit that exhibited a lot of texture on the tip of the tongue.  The acidity comes out midpalate as fine, ripe, flavorful tannins step up.  This chewy wine has ripe fruit from the beginning with a spicy aspect, and is full of incense that fills the mouth.  Drink now for a robust experience or cellar for years to come. ***(*) Now-2022+.

Recent Purchases from Soul Wine

I shook it up by purchasing two Northwest white wines and only four red wines during my last trip to Seattle. I purchased the Rulo, Syrah from Pete’s Wine Shop with the remaining bottles purchased from Soul Wine upon Michael’s recommendation.  I have a few more trips coming up so by the time these bottles have recovered from any bottle shock I will be back to taste them.  So stay tuned!

White Wines

• 2010 Maison Bleue, Au Contraire, Chardonnay, French Creek Vineyard, Yakima Valley
• 2009 Southard, Roussane, Lawrence Vineyard, Columbia Valley

Red Wines

• 2008 Domaine Pouillon, Katydid, Horse Heaven Hills
• 2010 Ayres, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
• 2009 Syncline, Syrah, McKinley Springs Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills
• 2008 Rulo, Syrah, Walla Walla

Wines with Todd Ruby at MacArthurs

I was picking up a few bottles of wine for our upcoming trip to New York City when Todd Ruby started pouring some wine at MacArthurs.  I quickly tasted through five of the bottles.  I did not like the 2009 St Gayan as much as the 2007.  The Godelia was one of my favorites and certainly well priced.  The Adelsheim was elegant but I rather liked the more complex, blacker fruit of the Chehalem wines.  While they are tasty now they are perfectly balanced for aging.

2009  St Gayan, Cotes du Rhone
This wine is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre from vines that average 40 years of age.  The fruit is sourced from vineyards in the villages of Sablet and Seguret.  Not as lush nor as dark as the 2007.  I thought this showed more structure for the red fruit but was a little disjointed. Not Rated.

2008 Godelia, Bierzo
This wine is 100% Mencia sourced from 40 to 80 year old vines.  The wine was aged for 12 months in French and American fine oak barrels.  This had a great nose of texture, aromatic fruit.  In the mouth good mineraly, red fruit, and some herbs.  A pleasure to smell and enjoyable to drink. Not Rated.

2009 Adelsheim, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This sports fresh red fruit, raspberry, some balance of structure between tannins and acidity.  Rather approachable. Not Rated.

2009 Chehalem, Pinot Noir, 3 Vineyard, Willamette Valley
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from the three estate vineyards of Ridgecrest, Stoller, and Corral Creek.  The wine wasa aged for 9 months in 23% new, 33% one-use, and 44% multiple-use French oak barrels.  This was a bit riper and richer than the Adelsheim with a profile of darker red fruit.  Some sweet spice and a good, firm body. Not Rated.

2009 Chehalem, Pinot Noir, Ridgecrest, Ribbon Ridge
This release marks the 25th anniversary of this wine!  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from the 55-acre Ridgecrest vineyard.  The wine was aged for 11 months in 52% new, 36% one-use, and 12% two-use French oak barrels.  This steps it up over the 3 Vineyard.  Though similar in profile, this wine has flavors of blackberry and other black fruits with a ripe profile, strong sweet spices, and a dusty, stone, satisfying finish. Not Rated.

Three American Pinot Noirs

These bottles were purchased at MacArthur’s.  The Roth cost $20, the Bouchaine cost $22, and the Shea is insanely priced at $47.  According to Wine-Searcher the Shea typically runs $35-$38 per bottle.  Jenn’s favorite wine was the Shea and I must agree, it is quite nice and a reasonable buy at the $35-$38 range but not at the $47 price point.  The Roth is a good wine and incredibly priced at $20 if you do not mind the assertive Pinot Noir style.  It is worth a try, I like the savory aspect with the dark sugar and spice notes.

2008 Shea Wine Cellars, Pinot Noir, Estate, Willamete Valley
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir with 13% of the fruit fermented in wood tanks.  The wine was aged in 46% new and 54% used French oak.  This young wine took several hours to develop so we put it back in the wine fridge to taste later.  On the second night the nose revealed roses and spice in a dense package along with barrel toast.  The dark red fruit mixed with racy minerals with a midpalate of lifted, blue/black fruits and incense.  There is a pleasing finish before a mixture of minerals and persistent hard blue fruits come out in the aftertaste.  Lovely but needs to be cellared.

2007 Bouchaine, Pinot Noir, Carneros
We did not like this as much as the Roth.  There is a light nose.  In the mouth the flavors of dark red fruits are a steely, somewhat grapey and show some heat right before the finish.  There are dusty notes in the aftertaste.  This wine comes across as mature.  I would drink this now.

2009 Roth Estate, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
There is quite a team making this wine.  Roth Estate is the second label of Lancaster Estate which means David Ramey is a consultant and Jesse Katz is the winemaker.  Jesse work at Screaming Eagle, Paul Hobbs’ Vina Cobos, and Robert Foley.  This wine was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels.  It took two bottles to produce this tasting note.  The first bottle was consumed within one evening but we felt the wine finally started to open up as we drained the last glass.  The second bottle was consumed over three nights.  This wine clearly needs to be cellared.  There is a light nose of floral berries.  In the mouth this medium bodied wine has an aggressive start with a bit of heat from alcohol.  It is a little discombobulated right now and could use a few years to come together.  It is compact with black cherry, red fruit flavors, some sweetness, and a bit of wood.  There is a savory character as the wine grows significantly in size with dark sugar and spice notes.  There are some very fine tannins in the long aftertaste.  This is a modern, assertive wine.

2008 Scott Paul Wines, La Paulee Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

The Tasting Room, Formerly a Creamery Built In 1915, Image by doubledcop (flickr)

Scott Paul Wines was founded by Martha and Scott Wright back in 1999.  At twelve years of age this producer has quite an interesting history.  Originally located in California the interest in making wine in Oregon brought Scott to Oregon in 2001where he was the Managing Directory of Domaine Drouhin.  The production of the Scott Paul Wines was then moved to Carlton Winemakers Studio for the 2003-2005 vintages.  This period also saw Cameron Healy, of the famous Kettle Chips, join as a partner.  They bought two buildings, a granary built in 1900 for the Madsen Grain Company and a creamery built in 1915. The renovation of the buildings to create a new winery and tasting room was completed during the summer of 2006.  At the same time they launched Scott Paul Selections which imports wine from over 20 producers located in Burgundy and Champagne.  They winery now produces 2,000 cases of wine per year.

Momtazi Vineyard, Image by voodoovintner (flickr)

This wine is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from vineyards located in three different AVAs.  The biodynamic Maresh Vineyard is located at the top of Dundee Hills AVA.  The Ribbon Ridge Vineyard is located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA.  The certified biodynamic Momtazi Vineyard is located in the McMinnville AVA.  The grapes were fermented with indigenous yeasts then aged for 10 months in 20% new French oak.

Celebrating at La Paulee, Image from Nicolemma

This wine is named after La Paulee de Meursault.  On the third Monday of November a six-hour lunch is held that celebrates the end of the harvest in Burgundy.  Approximately 700 winemakers, cellarworkers, and a few wine lovers gather to eat and drink outstanding bottles of wine.  The winemakers bring very good bottles of wine to share with everyone.  Apparently, no spitting of these rare and old wines is allowed!  For those who cannot obtain tickets there are La Paulee celebrations organized by Daniel Johannes.  These events are open to all but the price is steep, expect to spent thousands of dollars on the tickets and bring your oldest bottle of Romanee-Conti.

I bought this wine at Soul Wine during the Happy Hour Pricing.  With the full retail price around $35, the sale price of $30 is excellent.  If you are looking for an Oregon Pinot Noir that you can drink now then opt for the Beaux Freres Les Cousins, Lemelson Thea’s Selection, or Aubichon.  But if you are willing to wait a few years then grab some of the La Paulee and stick them in your cellar.

2008 Scott Paul Wines, La Paulee Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This wine has a nose of red fruit.  In the mouth the flavors of gritty, red fruit are mixed with fine, dusty tannins.  This was a young wine, that remained tight in flavor.  It did develop a little incense note that combined nicely with the red and blue fruit flavors.  There were some spices towards the finish.  I would highly recommend cellaring this wine for several years.

Drinking Pinot Noir by Lou’s Pool

The Author and Lou by the Pool

Sometimes last-minute arrangements work best.  Between work and his family, Lou is a busy guy so I was excited that we could arrange a last-minute get together.  We independently wanted to drink some Pinot Noir so I brought selections from Oregon and Lou opened up some Burgundy.  Jenn kindly played with Lorelei, who was repeatedly jumping into the pool, as I tasted through the wines.  I must admit, I was a bit distracted so I did not completely focus on taking wine notes.  I revisited our share of the wines at home as we watched USA beat Brazil in penalty kicks.  All of the reds were double-decanted almost two hours ahead of time and were later placed on ice to bring them back down to temperature.

2009 Domaine Cambis, Le Chante de Griots, Languedoc
Lou purchased this for $13 from MacArthur’s.  This is a blend of 60% Viognier and 40% Roussanne.  It was the color of a light to medium straw with hints of yellow-green.  It was refreshing with good texture, a slightly oily characteristic, but showed a little heat in the finish.  ** Now.

Cheeses from Maryland

We snacked on local cheeses, salami, and bread while we tasted the wine.  All of the reds were bagged and my notes appear in the order they were tasted.

2009 Joseph Drouhin, Cotes de Nuits-Villages, Burgundy
Lou purchased this wine from MacArthur’s for $20.  It had a grapey color in the glass with purple highlights.  There is a little heat on the nose and hints of pepper.  In the mouth there were hard red fruits, a clean profile then a little black cherry.  I guess this was a Burgundy.  It was very slow to open and after many hours developed a nose of herbs, particularly sage mixed with subtle red fruits.  It was lighter in the mouth than the Cotes de Beaune and developed pure sage flavors.  Jenn really loved the sage aspect because she is from New Mexico.  ** 2015-2019.

2008 White Rose Estate, Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley
I purchased this bottle from Esquin Wine Merchants for approximately $40.  It was a little bit darker than the Cotes de Nuits-Village and ruby in color.  This was a fruitier wine, almost medium bodied, that I guess being from Oregon.  It showed younger in profile, with polished wood aromas and an almost fishy quality to the hard nose.  In the mouth there were herbed red fruit, and some reduced, wooden redness.  The polished wood aspect was interesting.  While this wine clearly needs some age, it is a wee bit expensive.  ** 2015-2022.

2009 Beaux Freres, Les Cousins, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
I purchased this bottle from McCarthy & Schiering for $30.  Their prices tilt towards full retail so could probably be bought for cheaper.  There were 1,300 cases produced.  This had a young nose of dark, gritty fruits.  There were big flavors of dark, red fruits, with a grippy quality to the well presented fruit.  There were more tannins than the previous two wines but this was offset by the bluer, creamier fruit that developed through the finish.  I guess Oregon.  It became lush as it opened and developed into good stuff, with spices and mouthfilling flavors.  Jenn and I rather liked it.  This is a strong value under $30 and represents a more accessible style. *** 2015-2022.

2009 Joseph Drouhin, Cotes de Beaune-Villages, Burgundy
Lou purchased this bottle for $20 from MacArthur’s.  This was a similar lightness like the Les Cousins but redder in nature.  There were red fruits and some spice in this young, nice wine.  I guessed Burgundy and for the longest time preferred it to the Cotes de Nuits-Villages because it delivered a bit more.  But I can see how the strong sage scent of the Cotes de Nuits-Villages won over Jenn.  ** 2015-2019.

2009 Cameron Winery, Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley
I bought this bottle from McCarthy & Schiering for $28.  This is on the high-side and can be found for $23-$25 in stores.  I actually opened this bottle the night before.  I thought it a bit tight but did not mind it.  Jenn wasn’t too thrilled so we switched to the 2009 Buty, Merlot/Cabernet Franc instead.  At Lou’s this showed some lifted aromas of hard, old ladies’ perfume.  I did guess Oregon.  In the mouth this reminded me of dirty earth and not the good earth that may be found in Rhone wines.  Strange. * Now-2019.

McCarthy and Schiering in Seattle

The Store Front

After work this week I stopped by McCarthy & Schiering Ravenna shop on 65th Street.  This store, Pete’s on Eastlake, and the University Village QFC were the first stores that I bought wine from when I first moved to Seattle in the late 1990s.  McCarthy & Schiering have been around since 1980.  The store selection is quite diverse prominently featuring European wines.  The Washington and Oregon selection tend to feature less producers but that is balanced by having many of the cuvees.

My Purchases

I asked for some Pinot Noir recommendations and walked away with:

• 2009 Cameron, Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
• 2009 Beaux-Freres, Les Cousins, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

The Cameron was also recommended at Soul wine so that will be fun to try back home.

2008 Lemelson Vineyards, Thea’s Selection, Pinot Noir

This estate completed its 21,000 square foot, three story winery back in 2000.  The design allows for gravity fed winemaking.  They owns seven vineyard that are located in the Yamhill-Carlton, Dundee Hills and Chehalem Mountain.  All vineyards are certified organic.

In anticipation of my trip to Seattle I purchased three Oregon Pinot Noirs from MacArthur’s last week.  The Lemelson and the Aubichon in the background, were recommended by Andy.  Lemelson is popular stuff also being recommended to me at McCarthy & Schiering along with Soul Wine.  This is $26 at MacArthur’s and is $30 out in Seattle.  If you are in Seattle then I would wait for the Soul Wine happy hour to purchase this at 15% off.

2008 Lemelson Vineyards, Thea’s Selection, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This wine is produced from parcels located in all seven vineyards.  The grapes were primarily harvested in October.  It spent 16 months in 44% new and 56% used French oak barrels. 5476 cases were produced. This wine had a light nose with dark red, rich aromas.  In the mouth this is a rich wine with concentrated flavors (for a Pinot Noir), tart fruit, and grippy, spiced tannins.  There are flavors of dusty, herbs throughout.  There are raspberries in the finish and perhaps, a touch of minerals and some toast.  This wine is on the young side with good potential.  It also shows the vintage very well.  **(*) Now-2019.