A Tasty White Wine From Oregon

St Innocent Winery has been around since Mark Vlossak founded it in 1988.  In 2006 a new winery was built allowing the fruit to move by gravity, the fermented wine matures in a naturally cooled and humidified barrel room, with the finished wine is bottled by gravity.  This wine is produced using fruit from the Freedom Hill Vineyard which is located on the western side of Willamette Valley.  Lying at 425 feet this vineyard is the first to be cooled by evening breezes.  According to the website texture is a central component of their wines and it is lovingly present in this bottle.   I highly recommend you try this wine.  It is drinking well and slow to evolve.  The open bottle held up well for several days so I suspect this will develop over the next few years and drink for several after that.  At this strong price it is worth buying several to taste over the years. This wine is available at MacArthur Beverages.

2009 St. Innocent, Chardonnay, Freedom Hill Vineyard, Willamette Valley – $24
This wine is 100% Chardonnay sourced from blocks planted in 1999 and 2006 on sedimentary clay loam.  The fruit was whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented, underwent malolactic fermentation, then aged sur lees for 12 months in used French oak barrels.  The wine is a light, vibrant golden color.  There is firm structure with lots of texture for the supple white fruit.  The wine is a little spicy with a touch of wood.  With air the white and floral fruit takes on a subtle spice in the middle with a  lovely texture, great restraint, and well-integrated, watering acidity.  *** Now-2017.

Holiday Wines With Lou

Being Christmas Lou thought it would be fun to drink some nice wines of his.  I am always happy to drink any wine that he brings over so I quickly agreed.  When he suggested Aubert, Cayuse, and a Burgundy I became quite excited.  A couple years ago I attended a high-end California Chardonnay tasting and absolutely loved the wines of Aubert.  I have been itching to drink Aubert with Jenn ever since then.  My Cayuse experience was limited (still is) but there was a bottle of 2003 Cayuse, En Chamberlin sitting in my basement, which was a generous gift from Julia, so I made good on an old promise to open the bottle with Lou. The other selections for our tasting solidified rapidly.

We double-decanted all of the red wines except for the 1995 Domaine Chauvent-Chaupin which was simply popped and poured.  Due to hectic schedules the 2003 Cayuse had approximately one hour of air before the other red wines were opened.  The red wines were served blind with the Pinot Noirs in the first flight and the Syrahs in the second flight.  My notes are in the order the bottles were tasted.

This was an enjoyable evening.  The Aubert was absolutely irresistible.  The two from Cayuse were layered and complex, allowing for innumerable small sips of enjoyment.  Towards the end of the evening I found myself drinking the Chauvenet-Chopin because its lighter maturity was refreshing.

The Aubert Starter

2008 Aubert, Larry Hyde & Sons, Carneros
There was the typical, slightly cloudy color of light yellow straw.  The rich nose was muted compared to the palate.  In the mouth there was initially a little, light spritz followed by tropical white fruit, some sweetness with a rich mouth filling body.  Then it turns a little watery midpalate before a tremendous expansion marked by pleasing acidity on the middle of the tongue.  The finish showed citrus-like fruit.  There was an effortless and long-lasting aftertaste.  I was surprised to see 15.8% ABV on the label.  This was a beautiful wine that raised Jenn’s bar for Californian Chardonnay.  Jenn thought it was an older vintage due to the complexity and type of flavors.  Both she and Lou made sure not a single drop was left in the bottle.  Lorelei commented “orange.” ****(*) Now-2016+.

The Pinot Noir Flight

I would venture that we all preferred the Chauvent-Chopin for the mature aspect of its nose and palate.  While this will last for many years to come it was drinking quite well in the current state.  The Firesteed came across as primary in comparison and in need of several years of age.  Shane did tell me to cellar it for several more years but as it was the oldest Pinot Noir in my basement I just had to give it a try.

#1 – 1995 Domaine Chauvenet-Chopin, Vieilles Vignes, Nuits-Saint-George
This wine was imported by Robert Kacher Selections and purchased for $30 at MacArthurs.  There was a consistent garnet color throughout the glass with a touch of cloudiness.  The nose was mature with good notes of cedar.  In the mouth it was fruitier and richer than the nose.  The structured fruit made way to a racy finish, tannins, and an aftertaste of old ladies’ perfume.  There was a fairly consistent profile throughout the evening.  Jenn liked the earthniess and “salami” notes.   Lorelei commented “brown.”  This tasted tired on the second night. ** Now.

#2 – 2001 Firesteed, Citation, Pinot Noir
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir that was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels followed by seven years of bottle age before release.  A vibrant garnet color with a pigeon blood core and youthful look.  There was a fine scent to the nose.  In the mouth it revealed richer red fruit but was simpler.  Lorelei commented “Strawberry, pink.”  In the end it was a nice wine but I gave a nod to the Chauvenet-Chopin. **(*) 2014-2019.

The Syrah Flight

We then moved on to the Syrah Flight.  It was a relatively easy matter to identify what each of these three wines were for #3 and #5 bore a familiar resemblance with #4 showing less earthy, more pure, and primary fruit flavors.  #3 looked and tasted a bit older than #5.  All three wines were enjoyable and seemed to share one component, that of orange aromas in the nose.  Though the Cayuse was a step up from the Ross Andrew, the later was still a good drink and counterpoint.

#3 – 2003 Cayuse, Syrah, En Chamberlin Vineyard, Walla Walla
The fruit is sourced from the rocky 10 acre En Chamberlin vineyard planted in 2000.  This was quite opaque with a garnet rim that made me guess it was older.  There were flavors of roasted fruit, earth, and prominent notes of “olives and herbs” according to Jenn (but not in an underripe manner).  There were some orange and mango flavors along with smoke, darker fruit, and roast in this savory wine.  On the second night this showed more age. **** Now-2017.

#4 2008 Ross Andrew, Syrah, Boushey Vineyard, Columbia Valley
This wine is 100% Syrah produced from three different clones sourced from the Boushey vineyard.  The wine is aged for 14 months in 70% French 320 liter barrels.  This was the youngest looking wine in the glass.  The medium nose was fruitier, more pure, and higher pitched than #3 and #5.  This wine was still primary with a rich, fruity personality, some sweet flavors, nice texture, and a little heat.  Still vigorous and lively on the second night. ***(*) Now-2017.

#5 2007 Cayuse, Syrah, Armada Vineyard, Walla Walla
The fruit is sourced from the extremely dense, 16 acre Armada vineyard planted in 2001.  This was a little lighter in color than the 2003 but only just.  In the mouth the rich, delicately textured fruit was perfumed with a sweetness that Jenn found akin to “chewing gum” but in a good manner.  More youthful than the 2003 with a rough finish this wine had an incredibly expansive, persistent aftertaste.  I found the wine savory and Jenn loved the saltiness.  It was still rocking on the second night. ****(*) Now-2022.

Lou and Aaron

Three From the Northwest

These three bottles were purchased during my fall trips to Seattle.  The Southard was purchased for $20 and the Ayres for $28 at Soul Wine.  The Rulo was purchased for $18.69 at Pete’s Wine Shop in Eastlake.  The Southard and Ayres wineries and wines were new to me.  The Southard was a decent drink but I would recommend spending the extra money on the Ayres.  It is a beautiful wine that I would cellar for a few years.  I certainly look forward to tasting more 2010 Oregon Pinot Noirs.  While I had previously tasted the 2008 Rulo, Syrah before Jenn had not and so I was excited to share a bottle with her.  She did enjoy it and I would recommend it if you want something of good value that tilts towards the rustic.

2009 Southard, Roussanne, Lawrence Vineyard, Columbia Valley
This wine is 100% Roussanne from the first crop at the Lawrence Vineyard.  This is a crisp wine with an initial period of weighty fruit then mildly, sweet flavors develop before it turns to steely stones, white fruit, and a tad of toast. * Now-2015.

2010 Ayres Vineyard and Winery, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This is produced by the McLeroy and McClure families, where Brad McLeory worked under Veronique Drouhin at Domaine Drouhin Oregon.  The estate contains 15 acres of Pinot Noir planted in 2001.  This wine is produced from both estate and Eola Hills fruit.  This started with brighter red fruit and acidic cherries in an engaging manner.  The textured red fruit some red grapefruit acidity, with the acidity pleasing to swish around the mouth.  The flavors become lifted with air.  All in all this is a young and promising wine. **(*) 2014-2019.

2008 Rulo, Syrah, Walla Walla
This wine is 100% Syrah sourced from the Clifton & Clifton Hill and Ranch at the End of the Road vineyards.  There are blue fruits on the nose.  In the mouth there are ample blue fruit and stone flavors that are a bit spicy with some heat.  The acidity reveals on the sides of the tongue before there is a racy, sweet cinnamon note in the lifted aftertaste.  With time this bottle showed some midpalate heat and minor toast notes. **(*) Now-2015.

Drinks with Erin and Sean

This past weekend long-time friends Erin and Sean trekked over to our house to catch up.  The wines were poured right after opening and were enjoyed by all.  Erin commented that she drank a lot of Gigondas during her trip to France last month.

2007 Talley Vineyards, Chardonnay, Rincon Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley
This wine is 100% Chardonnay sourced from the 89 acre Rincon Vineyard.  The vines were planted in 1991 and are located on soils of shallow clay loam over sandstone.  The wine was 100% barrel fermented, malolactic fermentation in barrel followed by 16 months of aging on lees in 30% new French oak.  Drunk over three nights this bottle improved with time.  The color is of golden straw.  The rich nose makes way to fresher fruit in the mouth with immediate supporting acidity.  There is a mild, buttery texture the precedes flavors of stones, apples, and notes of toast.  There is prickly acidity on the tongue tip.  Jenn really enjoyed this on the second night.  Needs a bit more time. ***(*) 2015-2019.

2008 Willamette Valley Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir that was fermented in small bins then aged in 10% new Alliers French oak barrels.  Red fruit on the nose followed by a mouth of concentrated notes of cherry and some spice.  This lighter bodied wine has balanced acidity, and unobtrusive tannins.  A solid bottle that could stand another year or two of aging. *(*) 2014-2019.

2009 Domaine Santa Duc, Cuvee Tradition, Gigondas
The cuvee Tradition is a blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre, and 5% Cinsault that was hand harvested before aging for 18 months in casks and tuns. I picked this up at the Bobby Kacher tasting.  This was drunk over a few hours.  It was enjoyably concentrated with good fruit that exhibited a lot of texture on the tip of the tongue.  The acidity comes out midpalate as fine, ripe, flavorful tannins step up.  This chewy wine has ripe fruit from the beginning with a spicy aspect, and is full of incense that fills the mouth.  Drink now for a robust experience or cellar for years to come. ***(*) Now-2022+.

A Pair of Washington Wines Tasted Last Month

I am a big fan of the Syncline wines and am always tempted to buy them during my trips to Seattle.  But I do try to purchase wines I have not drunk before so when I saw a new vintage of the Subduction Red I grabbed it.  In addition, Michael the owner of Soul Wine, recommended I try that Memaloose.  I had previously enjoyed the 2008 Memaloose, Idiot’s Grace so I was more than willing to give this bottle a go.

Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge, Image from grapeman(flickr)

These two wines were purchased at Soul Wines.  I will update this post with the prices when I am able to look at the receipt back home. I was a bit skeptical about trying an Italian blend from Oregon so was immediately surprised when I took my first taste. It was quite good right about of the bottle, well made, and pleasing to drink due to the low alcohol.  So if you want to surprise your friends or drink something Italian than purchase the Memaloose.  I recommend that you cellar the Syncline while drinking the Memaloose!

2010 Syncline, Subduction Red, Columbia Valley
This is a blend of 31% Mourvedre, 25% Syrah, 21% Grenache, 12% Cinsault, 7% Carignan, and 4% Counoise.  The wine is aged for 11 months in a combination of 5-10% new French oak and Nomblot tanks.  A rather purple color in the tumbler.  From an ever-changing blend this bottle was tighter, closed, and more tannic on the first night.  The second night it showed dense, tart red fruit, young red berries, and powdery, hard profile that was framed by fine tannins.  This clearly needs to be cellared but reveals hints of good potential! **(*) 2015-2019.

2009 McCormick Family Vineyards, Memaloose, York’s Reward Red Wine, Columbia Gorge
This wine is a blend of 64% Barbera, 32% Primitivo,  and 4%Dolcetto that was aged in 4-5 year old, neutral French oak barrels.  The organic fruit is sourced from their Idiot’s Grace Vineyard. It is a comfortable 12.7% ABV.  Some brighter red fruit, articulate, good texture, pleasing, and refreshing to drink. *** Now.

Recent Purchases from Soul Wine

I shook it up by purchasing two Northwest white wines and only four red wines during my last trip to Seattle. I purchased the Rulo, Syrah from Pete’s Wine Shop with the remaining bottles purchased from Soul Wine upon Michael’s recommendation.  I have a few more trips coming up so by the time these bottles have recovered from any bottle shock I will be back to taste them.  So stay tuned!

White Wines

• 2010 Maison Bleue, Au Contraire, Chardonnay, French Creek Vineyard, Yakima Valley
• 2009 Southard, Roussane, Lawrence Vineyard, Columbia Valley

Red Wines

• 2008 Domaine Pouillon, Katydid, Horse Heaven Hills
• 2010 Ayres, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
• 2009 Syncline, Syrah, McKinley Springs Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills
• 2008 Rulo, Syrah, Walla Walla

Wines with Todd Ruby at MacArthurs

I was picking up a few bottles of wine for our upcoming trip to New York City when Todd Ruby started pouring some wine at MacArthurs.  I quickly tasted through five of the bottles.  I did not like the 2009 St Gayan as much as the 2007.  The Godelia was one of my favorites and certainly well priced.  The Adelsheim was elegant but I rather liked the more complex, blacker fruit of the Chehalem wines.  While they are tasty now they are perfectly balanced for aging.

2009  St Gayan, Cotes du Rhone
This wine is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre from vines that average 40 years of age.  The fruit is sourced from vineyards in the villages of Sablet and Seguret.  Not as lush nor as dark as the 2007.  I thought this showed more structure for the red fruit but was a little disjointed. Not Rated.

2008 Godelia, Bierzo
This wine is 100% Mencia sourced from 40 to 80 year old vines.  The wine was aged for 12 months in French and American fine oak barrels.  This had a great nose of texture, aromatic fruit.  In the mouth good mineraly, red fruit, and some herbs.  A pleasure to smell and enjoyable to drink. Not Rated.

2009 Adelsheim, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This sports fresh red fruit, raspberry, some balance of structure between tannins and acidity.  Rather approachable. Not Rated.

2009 Chehalem, Pinot Noir, 3 Vineyard, Willamette Valley
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from the three estate vineyards of Ridgecrest, Stoller, and Corral Creek.  The wine wasa aged for 9 months in 23% new, 33% one-use, and 44% multiple-use French oak barrels.  This was a bit riper and richer than the Adelsheim with a profile of darker red fruit.  Some sweet spice and a good, firm body. Not Rated.

2009 Chehalem, Pinot Noir, Ridgecrest, Ribbon Ridge
This release marks the 25th anniversary of this wine!  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from the 55-acre Ridgecrest vineyard.  The wine was aged for 11 months in 52% new, 36% one-use, and 12% two-use French oak barrels.  This steps it up over the 3 Vineyard.  Though similar in profile, this wine has flavors of blackberry and other black fruits with a ripe profile, strong sweet spices, and a dusty, stone, satisfying finish. Not Rated.

Wine and Dinner at Delancey’s

It was natural that we try our three red blends at Delancey’s.  The food is great, the atmosphere is comfortable, and everyone is enthusiastic when we show up with either bags or boxes of wine.  More importantly, through the constant patronage of Julia and Clark, they have become strong friends with both Brandon and Rachel.  Their warmth spreads to all and if it were not for the necessity of sleep, I would easily stayed there all night chatting, drinking, and dancing.  Brandon is a supporter of local beers and European wine which is reflected in his highly edited drinks list.  But he is also willing to try whatever it is that we bring so both Brandon and Rachel stopped by to taste the wines.

A Take on Buffalo Chicken

Salads

We brown bagged the wines to make the evening more fun.  The Memaloose is a screw-capped, Rhone-shaped bottle so even brown bagged, it was a bit of a standout from the other corked, Bordeaux-shaped bottles.  But we had no clue about the  varietal make-up of the wines so we were quite happy.  I have included my tasting notes in the order that we marked the wines.  The Memaloose changed the most over the first house.  It started off closed, acidic, and tart but then became quite drinkable and interesting.  The Beast was heavy-handed and completely different from the few Buty wines that I have drunk.  The Fidelitas quickly became everyone’s favorite.  Slow to change and drinkable now, I believe it will be an even better wine in two years time.  While we finished off the Memaloose and Fidelitas bottles, at least half of the Beast was left untouched.

2008 Memaloose, Idiot’s Grace, Estate Cabernet Franc, Columbia Gorge
This wine is 89% Cabernet Franc, 7% Sangiovese, and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Idiots Grace Vineyard, Oregon and Parker’s Vineyard, Washington.  It was aged for 16 months in two to five-year old barrels.  Young, primary flavors of black/red fruit, a tart nature, and plenty of acidity.  With air the nose became more scented with floral notes.  Clark found “brambleberry” and “rhubarb.”  This cost $22. **(*) Now-2015.

2009 Beast, Wildebeast, Columbia Valley
This is made by Buty Winery and is made from barrels not used under the Buty label.  This wine is a blend of 45% Syrah, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Malbec with 90% of the fruit sourced from Phinny Hill Estate, and 10% from the stones in Walla Walla.  This wine had gobs of cocoa, overt wood influences, confected, sweet fruit, and vanilla flavors in the mouth.  It was quite showy and left an overall coarse nature.  There was not enough acidity or depth to the fruit.  Clark commented, “I know what you are trying to do to me.”  This cost $23. * Now.

2009 Fidelitas, M 100, Columbia Valley
This wine is a blend of 48% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot that was aged for 14 months in American and French oak.  Black/red fruits are racy in flavor with fine-grained wood influences, supple fruit mid palate, inkiness, and structure in this well made wine.  A contemporary wine that is a strong value and will develop for a few years to come. This cost $14.44 making it a great buy! ***(*) 2014-2019.

Dessert!

It was natural that after eating Buffalo rillettes, two salads, and three pizzas that we would order two different deserts.  With none of us willing to finish the Beast Rachel brought out wine for Julia and I along with a pint for Clark.  The night then turned celebratory as it was the last evening at Delancey’s for Rachel.  She has worked hard on Rachel’s Ginger Beer  and is now stepping it up by opening the dive bar Montana with her investors.

Brandon, Julia, Rachel, and the Author

Three American Pinot Noirs

These bottles were purchased at MacArthur’s.  The Roth cost $20, the Bouchaine cost $22, and the Shea is insanely priced at $47.  According to Wine-Searcher the Shea typically runs $35-$38 per bottle.  Jenn’s favorite wine was the Shea and I must agree, it is quite nice and a reasonable buy at the $35-$38 range but not at the $47 price point.  The Roth is a good wine and incredibly priced at $20 if you do not mind the assertive Pinot Noir style.  It is worth a try, I like the savory aspect with the dark sugar and spice notes.

2008 Shea Wine Cellars, Pinot Noir, Estate, Willamete Valley
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir with 13% of the fruit fermented in wood tanks.  The wine was aged in 46% new and 54% used French oak.  This young wine took several hours to develop so we put it back in the wine fridge to taste later.  On the second night the nose revealed roses and spice in a dense package along with barrel toast.  The dark red fruit mixed with racy minerals with a midpalate of lifted, blue/black fruits and incense.  There is a pleasing finish before a mixture of minerals and persistent hard blue fruits come out in the aftertaste.  Lovely but needs to be cellared.

2007 Bouchaine, Pinot Noir, Carneros
We did not like this as much as the Roth.  There is a light nose.  In the mouth the flavors of dark red fruits are a steely, somewhat grapey and show some heat right before the finish.  There are dusty notes in the aftertaste.  This wine comes across as mature.  I would drink this now.

2009 Roth Estate, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
There is quite a team making this wine.  Roth Estate is the second label of Lancaster Estate which means David Ramey is a consultant and Jesse Katz is the winemaker.  Jesse work at Screaming Eagle, Paul Hobbs’ Vina Cobos, and Robert Foley.  This wine was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels.  It took two bottles to produce this tasting note.  The first bottle was consumed within one evening but we felt the wine finally started to open up as we drained the last glass.  The second bottle was consumed over three nights.  This wine clearly needs to be cellared.  There is a light nose of floral berries.  In the mouth this medium bodied wine has an aggressive start with a bit of heat from alcohol.  It is a little discombobulated right now and could use a few years to come together.  It is compact with black cherry, red fruit flavors, some sweetness, and a bit of wood.  There is a savory character as the wine grows significantly in size with dark sugar and spice notes.  There are some very fine tannins in the long aftertaste.  This is a modern, assertive wine.

2008 Twelve Wine, Pinot Noir 144, Oregon

Twelve Wines is a family run business whose first production was the 2003 vintage.   The vineyards are located near Carlton, Oregon and contain 11 acres of Pinot Noir and 2 acres of Pinot Blanc.  The vines are 10 to 26 years old.  The wines are made at the ADEA Wine Company.  The grapes are fermented in small tanks with 30% aged in new French oak barrels and the rest in one to four-year old barrels.  The estate wine is aged for 11 months with the reserve selections, which includes the 144,  seeing up to 20 months of barrel aging.

Charlie Guarding Pommard 1 Block, Image from Twelve Wine

I purchased this selection from the Twelve Wine at Esquin Wine Merchants in Seattle. I believe it was priced at $35.  Both Jenn and I enjoyed this young wine and feel it is well priced for the quality.  I wish I could take a time machine several years into the future to see how this one develops!

2008 Twelve Wine, Pinot Noir 144, Yamhill-Carlton District, Oregon
This wine represents a barrel selection from the oldest vines in the vineyard which were picked on 29 October, 2008.  There were 100 cases produced.  This wine has good aromas of ripe raspberry fruit and spices.  In the mouth the red fruit is a bit clipped with noticeable barrel influenced flavors and tannins on the finish.  The red berries then mixes with inky blue fruit followed by an aftertaste that reminded us of whiskey barrels.  This is a tasty wine has a bit of grip and clearly needs a few more years of age to settle down.  Promising stuff.