Holiday Wines With Lou

Being Christmas Lou thought it would be fun to drink some nice wines of his.  I am always happy to drink any wine that he brings over so I quickly agreed.  When he suggested Aubert, Cayuse, and a Burgundy I became quite excited.  A couple years ago I attended a high-end California Chardonnay tasting and absolutely loved the wines of Aubert.  I have been itching to drink Aubert with Jenn ever since then.  My Cayuse experience was limited (still is) but there was a bottle of 2003 Cayuse, En Chamberlin sitting in my basement, which was a generous gift from Julia, so I made good on an old promise to open the bottle with Lou. The other selections for our tasting solidified rapidly.

We double-decanted all of the red wines except for the 1995 Domaine Chauvent-Chaupin which was simply popped and poured.  Due to hectic schedules the 2003 Cayuse had approximately one hour of air before the other red wines were opened.  The red wines were served blind with the Pinot Noirs in the first flight and the Syrahs in the second flight.  My notes are in the order the bottles were tasted.

This was an enjoyable evening.  The Aubert was absolutely irresistible.  The two from Cayuse were layered and complex, allowing for innumerable small sips of enjoyment.  Towards the end of the evening I found myself drinking the Chauvenet-Chopin because its lighter maturity was refreshing.

The Aubert Starter

2008 Aubert, Larry Hyde & Sons, Carneros
There was the typical, slightly cloudy color of light yellow straw.  The rich nose was muted compared to the palate.  In the mouth there was initially a little, light spritz followed by tropical white fruit, some sweetness with a rich mouth filling body.  Then it turns a little watery midpalate before a tremendous expansion marked by pleasing acidity on the middle of the tongue.  The finish showed citrus-like fruit.  There was an effortless and long-lasting aftertaste.  I was surprised to see 15.8% ABV on the label.  This was a beautiful wine that raised Jenn’s bar for Californian Chardonnay.  Jenn thought it was an older vintage due to the complexity and type of flavors.  Both she and Lou made sure not a single drop was left in the bottle.  Lorelei commented “orange.” ****(*) Now-2016+.

The Pinot Noir Flight

I would venture that we all preferred the Chauvent-Chopin for the mature aspect of its nose and palate.  While this will last for many years to come it was drinking quite well in the current state.  The Firesteed came across as primary in comparison and in need of several years of age.  Shane did tell me to cellar it for several more years but as it was the oldest Pinot Noir in my basement I just had to give it a try.

#1 – 1995 Domaine Chauvenet-Chopin, Vieilles Vignes, Nuits-Saint-George
This wine was imported by Robert Kacher Selections and purchased for $30 at MacArthurs.  There was a consistent garnet color throughout the glass with a touch of cloudiness.  The nose was mature with good notes of cedar.  In the mouth it was fruitier and richer than the nose.  The structured fruit made way to a racy finish, tannins, and an aftertaste of old ladies’ perfume.  There was a fairly consistent profile throughout the evening.  Jenn liked the earthniess and “salami” notes.   Lorelei commented “brown.”  This tasted tired on the second night. ** Now.

#2 – 2001 Firesteed, Citation, Pinot Noir
This wine is 100% Pinot Noir that was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels followed by seven years of bottle age before release.  A vibrant garnet color with a pigeon blood core and youthful look.  There was a fine scent to the nose.  In the mouth it revealed richer red fruit but was simpler.  Lorelei commented “Strawberry, pink.”  In the end it was a nice wine but I gave a nod to the Chauvenet-Chopin. **(*) 2014-2019.

The Syrah Flight

We then moved on to the Syrah Flight.  It was a relatively easy matter to identify what each of these three wines were for #3 and #5 bore a familiar resemblance with #4 showing less earthy, more pure, and primary fruit flavors.  #3 looked and tasted a bit older than #5.  All three wines were enjoyable and seemed to share one component, that of orange aromas in the nose.  Though the Cayuse was a step up from the Ross Andrew, the later was still a good drink and counterpoint.

#3 – 2003 Cayuse, Syrah, En Chamberlin Vineyard, Walla Walla
The fruit is sourced from the rocky 10 acre En Chamberlin vineyard planted in 2000.  This was quite opaque with a garnet rim that made me guess it was older.  There were flavors of roasted fruit, earth, and prominent notes of “olives and herbs” according to Jenn (but not in an underripe manner).  There were some orange and mango flavors along with smoke, darker fruit, and roast in this savory wine.  On the second night this showed more age. **** Now-2017.

#4 2008 Ross Andrew, Syrah, Boushey Vineyard, Columbia Valley
This wine is 100% Syrah produced from three different clones sourced from the Boushey vineyard.  The wine is aged for 14 months in 70% French 320 liter barrels.  This was the youngest looking wine in the glass.  The medium nose was fruitier, more pure, and higher pitched than #3 and #5.  This wine was still primary with a rich, fruity personality, some sweet flavors, nice texture, and a little heat.  Still vigorous and lively on the second night. ***(*) Now-2017.

#5 2007 Cayuse, Syrah, Armada Vineyard, Walla Walla
The fruit is sourced from the extremely dense, 16 acre Armada vineyard planted in 2001.  This was a little lighter in color than the 2003 but only just.  In the mouth the rich, delicately textured fruit was perfumed with a sweetness that Jenn found akin to “chewing gum” but in a good manner.  More youthful than the 2003 with a rough finish this wine had an incredibly expansive, persistent aftertaste.  I found the wine savory and Jenn loved the saltiness.  It was still rocking on the second night. ****(*) Now-2022.

Lou and Aaron

Christmas Eve Wines

Though I took a Christmas break from posting on Hogshead Wine, I certainly continued drinking wine and even managed to take several notes.  Jenn and I were diligent and organized this season regarding our Christmas decorating and shopping but I was not even close to picking wines for our Christmas Eve dinner.  That all changed when Phil told me he got in several bottles of Domaine de la Grange des Peres.  I was then left with the difficulty of picking a second red wine to drink with it.  I delayed my decision until I decanted the Grange des Peres and decided the 2007 Domaine Leon Barrel, Valiniere would act as a counterpoint.  The Grange des Peres is imported by Kermit Lynch and available at MacArthurs for $90.  The Leon Barral is also imported by Kermit Lynch with the 2008 vintage available for $70 at MacArthurs.  I typically open wines that I can afford to drink on a daily or weekly basis so it is with hesitation that I splurge.  I have no remorse in buying the Grange des Peres!  It is exactly the sort of wine which I love and I highly recommend that you seek out a bottle.  This wine is fabulous to drink right now but will age for many years to come.

Deborah and Aaron

Laurent Vaille is the producer of Domaine de La Grange des Peres.  Having worked for Jean-Francois Coche-Dury, Gerard Chave, and Eloi Durrbach he purchased land in 1989 in l’Herault near Mas de Daumas Gassac.  After clearing the land through a combination of dynamite and boulders, he planted his vines on south-facing slopes.  His Syrah cuttings were sourced from Gerard Chave and his Cabernet Sauvignon from Eloi Durrbach.  He produces just two wines a blanc and a rouge.   I now understand the cult status of Laurent’s wines.

2007 Domaine de La Grange des Peres, VDP de l’Herault
This is a blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Mourvedre, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 15-20 year old vines located on soils of glacial scree and limestone.  The varietals are vinified and aged separately in 228 liter barrels for up to two years before blending and bottling.  This wine engages you with its complex nose from the second you pull the cork.  There are earthy red fruit flavors, smoke, dark berries, and a complex personality right out of the bottle.  The flavors are racy, delicate, and dance on the tongue despite the density.  The fruit is ripe with notes of stones and a brambly aftertaste.  My mom found the flavors “strong, come in with incense.”  There is a lovely salinity.  It was certainly more fun to drink this wine than to write my tasting note! ****(*) Now-2024+.

2007 Domaine Leon Barral, Valiniere, Faugeres
This wine is a blend of 80% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah that was aged for 24-26 months in 10% new oak.  Against the Grange des Peres this showed brighter red fruit, concentrated flavors before a gritty quality with tart acidity in the finish.  There are ample, fine dusty chalk flavors.  The nose eventually reveals herbs with the wine leaving an overall impression of fine texture.  My mom found a “citrus beginning” with “light, mild, middle flavor” followed by “pungent tartness.”  This bottle seemed a bit shutdown and I think needs more age.**(**) 2015-2020.

A Casual Tasting of Currently Available Wines

Lou came over this week to taste wine with Jenn and myself. We typically pick a theme but this time, excited about all of the wines that we have not tried, we decided to taste six currently available wines. We coordinated no further than arranging to have two whites and four reds. All of the red wines were decanted about half an hour before tasting. As there were six wines and only three of us, there were leftovers of every bottle.

Wines on the Table

I was almost overwhelmed by this tasting. We usually taste through a spectrum in quality. But this time all of the wines were very good, very interesting, and all but one were affordable.  I thought the two white wines complemented each other very well with my personal preferrence being the Domaine Faury.  Of the reds I equally enjoyed the Vieilleneuve, Mastro Janni, and Barral.

2007 Domaine de L’Aigle a Deux Tetes, En Griffez Chardonnay, Vieilles Vignes, Jura
This was purchased for $24 at Weygandt-Metzler.  This wine is from a 1 hectare plot of very old Chardonnay vines.  This is a very pale wine.  The medium intensity nose was very fresh with long-lasting yeasty aromas.  In the mouth there were apple-like flavors delivered in a crisp manner with a flint/stone quality.  The wine turned tart with plenty of acidity in the finish.  On the second night the nose was almost overwhelmed by an oxidated/flor aroma.  The flavors immediately mimiced the nose as the entire wine showed a tart and acidic nature.  I preferred it the first night.  ** Now.

2009 Domaine Faury, Blanc, Saint-Joseph
This was purchased for $26 at MacArthur’s.  This wine is a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussane.  The nose was very fresh with delicate aromas.  In the mouth there were flavors of almonds, some sweet white peaches, and stone fruit.  There were very nice flint flavors in this supple wine.  I really liked the mouthfeel.  On the second night the nose became richer.  The almond and stone fruit flavors were more pronounced.  The aftertaste now left a lovely, oily coating on the lips.  A lovely wine and one worth seeking out.  **** Now-2017.

2009 Domaine Vieilleneuve, En Griffe, Cotes du Rhone
Lou bought this wine at the Saint Georges location of Le Vin en Tete in Paris.  He thinks it was less than 20 Euros.  Note, the textured glass “label.”  This wine is produced from a four hecatre plot of 50 year old Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre.  This had a medium, grapey color.  The nose was comprised of clean, higher-pitched red fruit blend of raspberry and Kirsch, along with a little alcohol.  For Jenn it reminded her of “olive alcohol.”  I was not prepared for the full-bore dusty, ripe red fruit flavors that took over my mouth.  There was good acidity, some sweet spices, and a sweet finish.  There was a warmish aftertaste.  This was amazingly preserved on the second night.  The nose was effusive of raspberries.  In the mouth it developed a black tea flavor that complemented the raspberries.  The ripe, sweet, dusty red flavors start out strong but start to fade by the aftertaste.  *** 2015-2022.

2006 Mastro Janni, San Pio, Toscano
This was purchased for $30 at MacArthur’s.  This wine is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Sangiovese which spent 18 months aging in new and old barrels.  There were lower tones on the nose, with an interesting lanolin/”Gunk” hand cleaner scent, and some black fruit.  In the mouth this was tighter, with linear black fruit, tons of minerals, and sweet tannins.  With air the acidity and tart fruit eventually balance out.  It is quite nice and comes across as young.  I really like the minerally, black fruit flavors.  ***(*) 2015-2019.

2008 Rotie Cellars, Southern Blend, Washington
This was purchased for ~$30 at Esquine Wine in Seattle.  This wine is a blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre.  This had the lightest nose of restrained, strong red fruits.  In the mouth the black/red fruit is mixed with fine tannins and delivers some glycerine in the finish.  It is a well made wine but lighter than the three other red wines.  There is a slight, metallic hint.  It never expanded in flavor or potential during the first night.  On the second night the restrained feeling was lifted and it still showed a light profile all around.  There black/red fruit was still dominant and the very fine tannins more obvious.  A good wine but not as interesting as the other three.  **(*) 2015-2019.

2007 Domaine Leon Barral, Valiniere, Faugeres
This wine was purchased for $62 at MacArthur’s.  It is a blend of 80% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah.  The Mourvedre vines are 15 years old and the Syrah are 30 years old.  The soils are of schiste, the vineyards are fertilized with manure from the estate, indigenous yeasts are used, and no sulfur is used.  Wow, there was good stuff here in this dark wine.  The nose contained darker perfumed fruits and sage.  There were layers of scented berries in the mouth that were expansive.  The dusty flavors continued into the rich finish and aftertaste.  This showed better when it was a cooler temperature.  On the second night the dusty fruit flavors became saltier and a little more austere.  The dark flavors continued in the finish and aftertaste.  The wine continued to build and progress in the mouth.  Great stuff!  This is worth seeking out and really should be cellared a few more years.  ****(*) 2015-2022.

Lou Taking Notes