Chenin Blanc from the Loire and Syrah from Sonoma County

My Chidaine Leftovers

Our schedules have been a bit hectic lately but Lou and I managed to squeeze in a casual evening this week. I had been saving up these three bottles from Domaine Francois Chidaine for a bit so I immediately offered them up. All three wines have a gentle, engaging mouthfeel with an ethereal manner of delivering their definitive personalities. The 2004 Les Choisilles seems to be drinking at or near its peak, showing complete integration. The 2007 Les Choisilles was my favorite of the trio, showing more grip to its depth of flavor and liveliness. The 2009 Clos Habert is still in an infant which should be cellared for several years. Lou’s 2006 Shane, Syrah, Jemrose Vineyard was a stunning effort for an inaugural vintage made from six-year-old vines! I would recommend trying any of the wines of Domaine Francois Chidaine and Shane Wine Cellars.

Update: I retasted the leftover Chidaine wines on the sixth night.  They had been stored with Private Preserve in my refrigerator since last week.  While the two Les Choisilles were hanging on the Clos Habert was still drinking well.  The nose and initial flavors were still quite tight with the residual sugar in good balance, perhaps resulting in the impression of becoming drier.  The finish and aftertaste had developed a lovely minerality and left a coating of grippy, sweet spices on the teeth.  This definitely deserves restasting in several years and will probably be long-lived.

2004 Domaine Francois Chidaine, Les Choisilles, Montlouis-sur-Loire -
Imported by Dionysos Imports. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc sourced from 30-90 year old vines located throughout the estate on soils of clay and coarse flint on top of chalk. The fruit is fermented with indigenous yeasts in 600 liter demi-muids then aged for 11 months on the lees. There is no malolactic fermentation. The color was the richest golden-yellow. There was a nose of flint and smoke with a delicate texture. The aromas were quite tight at first but with air became fairly aromatic with a lemon-citrus component. In the mouth there was a familiar suppleness up front then leaner flavors with good acidity. There were notes of dried herbs (perhaps dried flowers?). Good finish but somewhat austere. On the second night the nose reminded me of botrytis with tropical aromas. The entire wine shows strong integration and a caressing suppleness. *** Now-2017.

2007 Domaine Francois Chidaine, Les Choisilles, Montlous-sur-Loire – $28
Imported by Dionysos Imports. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc sourced from 30-90 year old vines located throughout the estate on soils of clay and coarse flint on top of chalk. The fruit is fermented with indigenous yeasts in 600 liter demi-muids then aged for 11 months on the lees. There is no malolactic fermentation. The color was a light+ honey-yellow. The nose revealed yeast and flint which came in waves riding on top of low-lying yellow fruit. In the mouth the supple fruit was yellow in flavor as it mixed with an ethereal yeasty “flor” component. There was a great mouthfeel as the wine was swished about, perhaps a touch soft in the middle but tightened up in the finish and aftertaste as some spice flavors came out. With air there was a note of dry popped popcorn. On the second night this showed more grip in the mouth with a refreshing finish. *** Now-2022.

2009 Domaine Francois Chidaine, Clos Habert Demi-Sec, Montlois-sur-Loire – $27
Imported by Dionysos Imports. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc sourced from 60-year-old vines located on limestone soils of a particular vineyard. The fruit is fermented with indigenous yeasts in 600 liter demi-muids then aged for 11 months on the lees. There is no malolactic fermentation. The nose was lighter with riper fruit and a touch of smoke. In the mouth there were riper flavors at first with good acidity then a weightier mouthfeel took over as supple flavors came out which were spicy. The residual sugar was apparent when you swished the wine around and it left good texture on the tongue in the finish. This clearly needs cellar time. On the second night it tasted drier. **(*) 2015-2022.

After the trio of Chidaine wines we moved on to some reds. Earlier in the evening we walked down to his wine cellar to pick a red wine for the evening. Lou scanned about and I promptly agreed to his suggestion of a Shane Syrah. Two years ago he brought over the very good 2006 Shane, Syrah, Unknown. This time he pulled out the Jemrose Vineyard Syrah and promptly decanted it. Lou had opened up the Chateau Haut Queyran the night before but was not entirely pleased so he put it back in the fridge. We tried it again but it had not improved.

2009 Chateau Haut Queyran, Medoc – 375ml $9
Imported by Monsieur Touton. This wine is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Tried on the second night the nose revealed a little wet animal fut and old perfume. There was a good mouthfeel at first then flavors of hard, stemmy green fruit came out before turning lean with dark red flavors and tannins. * Now.

2006 Shane Wine Cellars, Syrah, Jemrose Vineyard, Bennett Valley, Sonoma County – $38 (in 2008)
This wine is 100% Syrah sourced from the Cardiac Hill Block. It was fermented with 50% whole clusters then aged for 10 months in 50% new French oak. The nose revealed gravelly fruit, a touch of ripeness, and white pepper notes. The aromas of blueberry fruit remind me of the grainy, concentrated blueberry mixture I add to my Greek yoghurt. The great nose continues to develop white pepper and floral herbs. In the mouth the flavors followed the nose with fruit that was focused with some ripeness because tightening up with hints of smoke, iron-like minerals, and perfume. Really quite good and definitely coming into its own. Though this should last for sometime I would drink now with an hour of air or within the next few years. **** Now-2019.

No Deposits on the "2006" Numerals!

Tasting A Variety of Wines at Lou’s

We recently joined Lou and Adriene for dinner and wine in their newly renovated dining room….and kitchen.  I think the wine bottles look great on the marble countertop!  There was not much attempt to coordinating the wines and I am finding such diversity enlivening.  The Albert Morot and La Sirena were decanted a few hours ahead of time by Lou whereas the Fidelitas saw less than an hour of air.  As usual the leftover wine was divided up, dosed with Private Preserve, then retasted the next night.  The La Sirena was a standout wine for me, a lovely treat that I believe all of us very much enjoyed.  The Albert Morot is still young and in its oscillations revealed hints of what its future will be.  This was Jenn’s favorite wine of the evening.  The Charles Schleret was beguiling youthful, fresh, and virtually unchanged over both nights.  The Faury is an infant which should age while you drink the 2009.  What I remember most is that the evening was so relaxing.  We gently floated through the cheese, wine, and dinner, happily chatting with no regard to time.

2005 Domaine Charles Schleret, Riesling Herrenweg, Alsace - $24
Imported by Neal Rosenthal.  The delicate aromas of Riesling fruit step out of the glass and reveal a delicate, floral perfume.  In the mouth the gently ripe fruit mixed with spice, lively acidity, and controlled ripeness before expansive darker flavors come out.  Tastes young.  On the second night the flavors tightened up a touch in the aftertaste otherwise it remained virtually unchanged.  Easy to drink and will undoubtedly drink for a long time.  *** Now-2022.

2010 Domaine Faury, St Joseph Blanc – $28
Imported by Kermit Lynch.  This wine is a blend of 60% Marsanne and 40% Roussane.  The light to medium nose is of delicate sweet herbs and white fruit, florals, and perhaps passion fruit.  In the mouth the bright white fruit flavors mix with stones in the supple, fruity body.  On the second night the acidity was well-integrated and the aftertaste had drying spices on the tongue.  Light compared to the 2009 vintage and in need of age.  **(*)  2015-2022.

2009 Bruno Clavelier, Bourgogne Passetoutgraine, Vieilles Vignes – $15
Imported by MacArthur Beverages.  This is a blend of old-vine Gamay and Pinot Noir.  Opened the night before. The nose was piercing with raspberry aromas and some spicy, Big-Red.  In the mouth the flavors bore gritty citrus tartness before becoming tart and cardboard-like.  * Now.

2007 Albert Morot, Beaune Toussaints 1er Cru, Beaune – $25
Imported by Robert Kacher.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from 40-year-old vines.  It was aged for 16 months in new and old oak.  In the glass the color was a light garnet with a tinge of rose.  The nose bore brighter red fruit, a touch of celery, and a hint of Italian parsley.  In the mouth the flavors were focused with bluer-red fruit, a minerally acidity throughout that worked well with the wood notes.  This refreshing wine opened up to reveal roasted meats, herbs, and a richer nose.  On the first evening it did tighten up at time and on the second night it was less aromatic, tight, and youthful.  I would age this a bit more.  *** 2015-2022.

2003 La Sirena, Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley
From the wines of Heidi Barrett she is famous for being the winemaker at Screaming Eagle, Dalla Valle, Grace Family, and others.  This wine is 100% Syrah aged for 20 months in oak.  In the glass the color was medium+ ruby with some garnet.  The nose was finely textured with vanilla notes and quite a stand out.  The flavors in the mouth were expansive with blue and black fruit, controlled power, and a youthfulness with some age.  With air it became ripe, gritty, and showed flavors of waffles with maple syrup.  On the second night it still showed lively blueberry flavors, concentration, and orange juice acidity.  Nice!  **** Now-2020.

2007 Fidelitas, Red Wine, Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley – $36
This wine is a blend of 53% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc which underwent malolactic fermentation in barrel then was aged for 24 months in 50% new and 50% used American and French oak.  This wine was powdery with sweet spices, vanilla, in a soft personality. The flavors in the finish tilted towards cinnamon spice with a soft aftertaste.  On the second night the wine tightened up for the better with ripe black fruit, pleasing warm acidity, and a stone sheen.  I suspect this will not make old bones.  ** Now-2015.

A Casual Evening at the Lebanese Taverna Cafe

The weather in Maryland was beautiful Friday evening so my daughter wanted to eat out for dinner.  She picked the Lebanese Taverna Cafe.  I have been eating at the restaurant in DC since I was a little boy so am always willing to visit, besides it would give us an opportunity to try a few glasses of wine.  The Lebanese Taverna first opened in 1979 in Arlington, Virginia and today has several restaurants and cafes throughout the Washington, DC area.  The restaurants have a sizeable, international wine list with a  strong selection of Lebanese wines.  The cafes have a small list of less than ten red and white wines, all priced at $6 per glass or $25 per bottle.  The hostess picked two different wines for us.  The Chateau Ksara was poured from the remainder of one bottle and a newly opened bottle.  It was really quite good, strongly priced at $25 per bottle at the cafe, and a wine which you could enjoy a bottle with your family throughout a lazy evening.  I never would have guessed it was a blend of Gamay and Tempranillo, my first from Lebanon!  I have been a fan of Chateau Ksara for some time so I was pleased to enjoy another of their wines.  Unfortunately the Clos St. Thomas did not show too well. Though it was poured from a mostly-full bottle, I thought it was simply tired from a long-opened bottle but looking at the color I wonder if it was a bit cooked.  I am always willing to try a wine from Lebanon and recommend that you do to.

2010 Chateau Ksara, Cuvee de Printemps, Bekaa Valley
Imported by American Fidelity Trading.  This wine is a blend of 60% Gamay and 40% Tempranillo which underwent semi-carbonic maceration, malolactic fermentation, and interrupted alcoholic fermentation.   Grapey ruby color.  Lighter fruity berrylicious nose.  Racy blue and red berries, bright acidity with minimal tannins give structure, cherry note in the finish.  Actually quite satisfying. ** Now-2014.

2007 Clos St. Thomas, Les Gourmets Rouge, Bekaa Valley
Imported by .American Fidelity Trading.  This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Cinsault.  Garnet, bricking, dark core.  Softer more mature nose, roasted fruits and a touch tired (open for a while?) Soft fruits, old wood, some concentration, roast fruit a bit blue, touch drying tannins. Not Rated.

An Older-Wine Dinner at Joan’s House

Joan has been a lover of fine wine for quite some time. She has bought a variety of wines over the years both from local stores and also on national and international wine trips. She has held on to particular bottles which she likes to bring out once they are mature. Joan recently hosted a dinner so that she could open the 1992 and 1993 Beringer, Private Reserve. The wines this evening were lovely. With the exception of the completely faded fruit of the Veedercrest all of the bottles were in great shape and developed throughout the course of the evening. My thanks go out to Joan for hosting an evening of wonderful food and wine.

2010 Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette, Les clapas Blanc, VdP de l’Herault
Imported by Elite Wines. This a blend of 40% Carignan Blanc, 30% Granache Blanc, and 30% Terret Bourret. Though a lighter color in the glass the nose was medium strength with focused aromas of white flowers and stones. This medium bodied wine offered lemon flavors with plenty of stone notes, tilting towards a tart profile with green apple flavors. This was a fresh wine that is young and will benefit from short-term cellaring. If you must drink it now then decant it for one to two hours. *** 2015-2019.

2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Les Caillerets, Chassagne Montracher 1er Cru
Imported by MacArthur Beverages. Two-thirds of the fruit is sourced from 60-year-old vines with the remaining third from 20-year-old vines. The nose was young with a subtle ripeness of fruit mixed with flint. The gentle texture bore apple-like tart fruit which developed lifted flavors of flint as the wine breathed. There were some toast notes in the finish. This tight wine slowly developed before the bottle was finished, this definitely requires cellaring before it will reveal its full personality. **(**) 2017-2022.

Opening the red wines

After the Bouillabaise we moved onto the red wines. Joan cooked braised short-ribs accompanied by roasted Brussel sprouts and root vegetables. The Veedercrest and Beringers had been stood up a day or two ahead and opened shortly before being poured. The Judd’s Hill had been double-decanted to remove sediment thus had four to five hours of air.

Corks from the 1974 Veedercrest and 1993 Beringer

I did not start with the best luck in removing the corks. The Judd’s Hill cork crumbled in two using a waiter’s corkscrew and the 1992 Beringer cork got stuck. So I switched to my poor-man’s Durand corkscrew composed of the worm from a Screwpull and an Ah-So. This worked wonders with the Beringer corks. The Veedercrest cork did not want to come out so at Lou’s advice I put the bottle on the floor between my feet. After some concentrated tugging and twisting it finally came free!

1974 Veedercrest Vineyards, Petite Sirah, Cask YUG 77 Batch 2, Sonoma County
This was a vibrant medium garnet color. The musky nose was animale with dark fruit notes. Eventually the musk blew off to reveal a nose of old wood. The flavors were light in the mouth, still a little acidity to keep things going. The fruit had faded way leaving old sweet wood notes. * Now.

1992 Beringer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Private Reserve, Napa Valley
This is a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 57% Bancroft Ranch, 21% State Lane, 14% St. Helena Home, and 5% Chabot along with Cabernet Franc from Bancroft. Each vineyard was aged for two years in new French oak before blending. This was a medium garnet color. The nose was medium strength with aromas of meat stew, a little roast, and Hoison sauce (or was it sweet soy sauce?). The complex flavors were very expansive at the start before a midpalate of tart red and black fruit flavors. With air the roast veggies and soy/Hoison sauce remained but the fruit became riper and balanced everything out. **** Now-2017.

1993 Beringer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Private Reserve, Napa Valley
This is a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 62% Bancroft Ranch, 24% St. Helena Home, and 11% Tre Colline along with 2% Cabernet Franc from Bancroft and 1% Cabernet Franc from Tre Colline. Each vineyard was aged for two years in new French oak before blending. The nose was subtler than the 1992 with the fruit more primary and aromas of herbs. In the mouth the youthful flavors were subtler, a little chewy as they were mixed with grapey tannins. There was a lovely cedar box component in the tart and gritty finish. **** Now-2019.

1997 Judd’s Hill, Cabernet Sauvignon
This is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Compared to the Beringers the nose was simpler with riper fruit and tobacco with the aromas becoming delineated with air. In the mouth the youthful and tight flavors were of tart red fruit, tobacco, and cedar. But over the evening it started to open up very well. This is a lovely wine just hinting at maturity and will undoubtedly develop for many years to come. ***(*) 2015-2025.

After the red wines we moved onto a trio of desserts made by Joan’s friend Patty. To accompany the fruit tart, rice pudding, and apple cobbler Joan offered a selection of dessert wines with Lou picking one from the Loire. Located within the Coteaux du Layon the village of Chaume sets its own requirements which include a significantly higher minimum level of sugar from grapes that must be affected by botrytis (noble rot) or passerillage (drying of the grapes by the sun). Joan used to drink quite a few wines from Chaume with this particular bottle purchased for $23 from MacArthur Beverages some years ago. After trying this bottle I am kicking myself for being content to read about these sweet wines made from Chenin Blanc instead of actually drinking them!

1997 Domaine Cady, Coteaux du Layon Chaume
Imported by Vintner Select. There was a woodsy amber color. This was fun to smell with aromas of maderized pear and apple that opened up rapidly. In the mouth the flavors were well-perfumed with lots of residual sugar but good acidity, plenty of sweet spices, flavors of apricot, and an unctuous caramelized apple-cinnamon and sugar vein. Incredibly tasty and enjoyed by all. **** Now-2025.

Lou, Joan, and the Author

Six Bottles of 2009 Petit Chateaux

This week I had the chance to taste six more 2009 Petit Chateaux which were sampled by MacArthur Beverages.  These wines were tasted blind over two nights.  Of the six bottles there are four that I recommend you try.  The Haut de Poujeaux and Ch. Clement-Pichon both have a classic structure that will benefit from short-term aging and drink well over the medium term.  The Ch. Beaulieu and Ch. Bel-Air both deliver strong value for $14 with the Ch. Beaulieu showing more refinement and the Bel-Air a spirited nature.  Enjoy!

2009 La Demoiselle de By, Medoc – $15
Imported by Monnsieur Touton. This is the second wine of Chateau Rollan de By. It is a blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged for 12 months in 20% American, 30% new French, and 50% of one year old oak barrels.  The nose was subtle with darker red fruit.  In the mouth the flavors were of simple red fruit with a simple finish and fine drying tannins in the aftertaste.  With air the flavors became high-toned red fruit, tart, with less than lively acidity.  This bottle was not that interesting and the tannins were on the verge of outpacing the fruit. *  Now-2015.

2009 Haut de Poujeaux, Haut-Medoc – $17
Imported by MacArthur Beverages.  A wine of Chateau Poujeaux.  This is a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from a 4 hectare vineyard of 20 year old vines.  It was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.  A light nose of scented red and blue fruit with some greenhouse aromas.  In the mouth the red and blue fruit was initially creamy then racier with minerals in the midpalate, and sweet spices in the aftertaste.  Showing more complexity than the La Demoiselle de By and Prieure Canteloup, this elegant wine has flavors which follows the nose, with both perfume and structure for aging.  **(*)  2015-2022.

2009 Chateau Prieure Canteloup, Cotes de Bourdeaux – $15
Imported by MacArthur Beverages.  This is a blend of 65% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec.  A light to medium, aromatic nose of red fruit and old-fashioned perfume.  The good flavors have greenhouse notes, tart red fruit, overt structure, and a good dose of fine tannins.  With air the perfume component developed but the flavors became harder with the very fine, drying tannins increasing in amplitude.  *(*) 2015-2019.

2009 Chateau Beaulieu, Comtes de Taste, Bordeaux Superieur – $14
Imported by MacArthur Beverages.  This is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon from 20-year-old vines.  The nose contains nice, ripe blue and red fruit.  In the mouth the blue fruit flavors are immediately creamy with spices and cedar before turning dark and persistent in the aftertaste where there are plenty of fine, drying tannins.  This is a very polished wine which, with air, reveals dark flavors, perfume, and a structure for aging that is on the firm side of opulent.  **(*)  Now-2025.

2009 Chateau Bel-Air, La Chapelle, Cotes de Castillon – $14
Imported by MacArthur Beverages.  A blend of mostly Merlot with some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon aged 12 months in oak.  The nose is light, not revealing much beyond dark red fruit.  In the mouth the red fruit mixed with a ripe, red grapefruit component with is initially expansive with spices lurking underneath, before turning racy in the finish and aftertaste.  The long aftertaste contains fine, drying tannins and turns a bit wild with air.  There is good complexity to this wine, which goes well with food.  *** Now-2019.

2009 Chateau Clement-Pichon, Haut-Medoc – $22
Imported by MacArthur Beverages.  The nose reveals low-lying, dark red and blue fruits.  In the mouth the higher toned red fruit has a creamy mouthfeel supported by acidity as it mixes with flavors of stone.  It tastes as if it were aged in fine wood with enjoyably ripe, dusty tannins.  This was slow to unveil and will surely age well.  *** Now-2027.

Three From the Northwest

These three bottles were purchased during my fall trips to Seattle.  The Southard was purchased for $20 and the Ayres for $28 at Soul Wine.  The Rulo was purchased for $18.69 at Pete’s Wine Shop in Eastlake.  The Southard and Ayres wineries and wines were new to me.  The Southard was a decent drink but I would recommend spending the extra money on the Ayres.  It is a beautiful wine that I would cellar for a few years.  I certainly look forward to tasting more 2010 Oregon Pinot Noirs.  While I had previously tasted the 2008 Rulo, Syrah before Jenn had not and so I was excited to share a bottle with her.  She did enjoy it and I would recommend it if you want something of good value that tilts towards the rustic.

2009 Southard, Roussanne, Lawrence Vineyard, Columbia Valley
This wine is 100% Roussanne from the first crop at the Lawrence Vineyard.  This is a crisp wine with an initial period of weighty fruit then mildly, sweet flavors develop before it turns to steely stones, white fruit, and a tad of toast. * Now-2015.

2010 Ayres Vineyard and Winery, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This is produced by the McLeroy and McClure families, where Brad McLeory worked under Veronique Drouhin at Domaine Drouhin Oregon.  The estate contains 15 acres of Pinot Noir planted in 2001.  This wine is produced from both estate and Eola Hills fruit.  This started with brighter red fruit and acidic cherries in an engaging manner.  The textured red fruit some red grapefruit acidity, with the acidity pleasing to swish around the mouth.  The flavors become lifted with air.  All in all this is a young and promising wine. **(*) 2014-2019.

2008 Rulo, Syrah, Walla Walla
This wine is 100% Syrah sourced from the Clifton & Clifton Hill and Ranch at the End of the Road vineyards.  There are blue fruits on the nose.  In the mouth there are ample blue fruit and stone flavors that are a bit spicy with some heat.  The acidity reveals on the sides of the tongue before there is a racy, sweet cinnamon note in the lifted aftertaste.  With time this bottle showed some midpalate heat and minor toast notes. **(*) Now-2015.

An Impromtu Tasting of New Zealand Pinot Noirs

I recently suggested that Shane come over to taste some wine this past weekend.  Working for Bacchus Importers during the day he is always excited to taste wine with friends.  He suggested we drink New Zealand Pinot Noir as he still had six bottles from a tasting-dinner he meant to host earlier in the fall.  After some last-minute texting and phone calls Shane brought his friend Natasha and her daughter, our neighbor Mark showed up, and Jane from the Greater Washington Wine School stopped by as well.

We wedged ourselves into our small dinning room to taste the wines and eat some food.  The wines were brown-bagged and simply opened.  The group represented a diverse set, from people in the business to fans of drinks.  In the end there was a group consensus that the favorite wine was the 2006 Voss Estate followed closely by the 2009 Felton Road.  The rest of the wines fell into a middle grouping.  Unfortunately the 2008 Peregrine was an off bottle.

1. 2006 Voss Estate, Pinot Noir, Martinborough
2. 2009 Felton Road, Bannockburn, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago
3. 2008 Escarpment, Pinot Noir, Martinborough
   2009 Mohua, Pinot Noir, Central Otago
4. 2008 Nautilus, Pinot Noir, Marlborough

Here are notes and Shane’s from the evening.  They are listed in the same order we tasted the wines.  The 2006 Voss is at or near peak drinking.  The 2009 Felton Road will clearly develop with age but it a lovely bottle right now.  I think the 2008 Escarpment and 2008 Nautilus need more time as they fluctuated throughout the evening and need to settle down.

#1 – 2006 Voss Estate, Pinot Noir, Martinborough
This is imported by Meadowbank Estates which is a division of Empson USA.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir that was aged for 12 months in 15-20% new French oak barriques.  There was a medium strength nose of earthy, brambly fruit, with notes of pencil/cedar.  In the mouth this medium-bodied wine had good texture with earthy flavors of brambly fruit and pencil.  With air there were some blue, inky flavors in the finish along with integrated, supporting acidity.  Clearly the most mature wine of the lot.  This is drinking very well right now. My #1.**** Now.

Shane’s note, “Earthy with subdued dark fruit at the back.  Big on the palate and well-balanced between fruit and earth notes.  Long finish.”

#2 – 2008 Escarpment, Pinot Noir, Martinborough
This is imported by Meadowbank Estates which is a division of Empson USA.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir that was aged for 11 months in 30% new French oak barriques.  This was young and fruity on the nose.  There is good texture in the mouth and a slightly chewy midpalate.  The fruit tilts towards sour red fruit with a hint of minerality.  I tied this between #3 and #4. **(*) Now-2017.

Shane’s note, “Lighter than #1 and more acidic, but more red fruit.  Won’t live as long, I don’t think so.”

#3 – 2009 Mohua, Pinot Noir, Central Otago
This wine is imported by Vineyard Brands.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir from hand-harvested fruit that was de-stemmed then aged in a mix of older French oak barrels.  This was very fresh with a lighter and restrained nose.  In the mouth the cherry flavors reminded me of typical New Zealand Pinot Noir.  The fruit was a tad sweet.  I did not care for this so #5. * Now.

Shane’s note, “Big fruit bomb, a bit thin and acidic.  Still acid at the finish.”

#4 – 2008 Nautilus, Pinot Noir, Marlborough
This wine is imported by Negociants USA.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir from hand-harvested fruit that  was de-stemmed and aged in a mixture of new and older French oak barriques.  There was a fine scent to the nose.  Reminiscent of the #2 but with more, good grip.  The ripe fruit and fine tannins were enjoyable.  There were youthful flavors of orange lemon grass with darker berries in the aftertaste. Drink now for youthfulness but will develop with age. I tied this between #3 and #4. **(*) Now-2017.

Shane’s note, “Acid in the front, cherry.  Finish is nice.”

#5 – 2009 Felton Road, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago
This is imported by Wilson Daniels.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir with 20% whole-cluster fermentation using indigenous yeast.  The wine was aged for 11 months in French oak barrels.  This wine stood out with its nose of darker red fruit with notes of roasted earth.  In the mouth the fruit was a bit prickly with tip of the tongue acidity.  A lovely, young wine that almost reminded me of a brambly, rustic Cotes du Rhone.  My #2. ***(*) Now-2017+.

Shane’s note, “So pretty and soft, beautiful midpalate and great finish.  May be my favorite.”

#6 – 2008 Peregrine, Pinot Noir, Central Otago
This wine is imported by Vineyard Brands.  This wine is 100% Pinot Noir that was aged for 10 months in 38% new French oak barrels.  This was an off bottle. Not Rated.

Tasting Affordable 2009 Bordeaux

Jenn and Lou

Late last month Lou and Adriene came over to taste affordable 2009 Bordeaux.  Lou, having drunk a few bottles, was generally impressed by the quality and suggested we put together a few organized tastings.  Unfortunately the selections are still thin in Washington, DC with containers due later this winter.  So Lou grabbed several bottles from Calvert-Woodley and I grabbed several from MacArthurs.  After reviewing our purchases Lou suggest we start with Merlot-based wines.

I was completely pleased by our selections of wines.  Having spent only $10-$20 per bottle this was our least expensive tasting, yet both nights I enjoyed drinking these wines.  I would group #1, #2, and #6 as my top three followed by #4, then #3 with #5 as my least favorite.  With the variety of styles I suspect many people could find an enjoyable, affordable bottle from the six bottles we tried.  Both nights I went to bed eager to try more 2009 Bordeaux.  I suspect there will be many quality wines that may be drunk now while others benefit from short-term aging.  Hopefully Lou and I may find evocative and interesting bottles.

The wines were double-decanted two hours ahead of time and served in brown paper bags.  The leftover wine was gassed with Private Preserve so they could be tasted the following night.  My tasting notes are in the order that the wines were tasted.

#1 – 2009 Chateau Cheval Noir, Saint-Emilion
This is imported by Shaw-Ross and available at MacArthurs for $19.99.  This wine is a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This was a brighter color than #2 and #3.  Lorelei found “Strawberry” on the nose.  This was a little earthier in aroma with some cassis.  It was racy in the mouth with good initial weight.  The flavors became short midpalate which was followed by a simple aftertaste.  On the second night I found a subdued cherry nose and a little gravelly fruit.  There was still a simple finish and aftertaste.  Jenn preferred this wine over #6. ** Now-2015.

#2 – 2009 Chateau Croix de Jauge, Saint-Emilion
This is imported by MacArthurs and available for $16.99.  This wine is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.  This was darker than #1.  With greenhouse aromas it revealed good concentration, racy flavors, verve from acidity, and a classic profile.  There were very fine tannins that coated the inside of the mouth. There was a good aftertaste which was a tad more coarse/rustic and bigger in flavor.  Overall there was good balance.  On the second night the nose was still strong and interesting.  There were black fruit flavors in the mouth, enjoyable acidity, and tannins.  Quite nice. *** Now-2017.

#3 – 2009 Chateau Guillon Nardou, Montagne Saint-Emilion
This is imported by Monseiur Touton and available at MacArthurs for $10.99.  This wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot.  This was concentrated and more muted than #1 and #2.  There were dark flavors and herbs which were lean in the mouth.  This was structured, gave up the least, and modern.  On the second night this was a coarser wine with a very light nose, dark and simple in the mouth, almost watery midpalate but a bit a lift in the finish. * 2014-2017.

#4 – 2009 Chateau Grimont, Cadillac
This is imported by Calvert Woodley and available for $9.49.  This wine is a blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This sported tarter red fruit and roast meats.  The more vibrant red fruit burst initially bursts in the mouth then falls over before the tannins come out.  On the second a meaty whiff blows off before bright, acidity red fruit (a tad cranberry or pomegranate like) comes out.  There are drying, fine tannins that coat the lips. * Now-2015.

#5 – 2009 Chateau Le Chene de Margot, Cotes de Blaye
This is imported by Calvert Woodley and available for $9.49.  This had a very fruity nose of ripe, red fruit that was almost sweet.  In the mouth it was powdery in texture with confected fruit flavors.  This would appeal to many people.  On the second night the sweet, simple fruit persisted into the nice aftertaste.  This was not reminiscent of Bordeaux. * Now-2015.

#6 – 2009 Chateau Lafont-Fourcat, Bordeaux
This is imported by Calvert Woodley and available for $12.34.  This wine is a blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Malbec.  There was a dark nose of almost sour fruit with a wee bit of stink.  In the mouth, the concentrated dark fruit was a little spicy with drying tannins.  The wine was balanced and refined.  On the second night this was racy, enjoyable, and drank really well. *** Now-2017.

Aaron and Adrienne

We wrapped up with another selection from Lou.  Chateau Couhins was promoted to a first growth of Graves in 1959 and acquired by the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique (INRA) in 1969.  Supported by several researchers at the estate, they investigate both viticulture and vinification.  An Integrated Protection strategy for the vineyard combines natural parasite regulation and a decision protocol to minimize the use of tractors to reduce CO2 emissions and soil compaction.  Precision Viticulture allows the mapping of homogenous parcels in the vineyard down to one square meter.  Here is Lou’s description on how he acquired the bottle:

The wine was a gift when we were in Paris two summers ago. We had purchased a week’s stay at an apartment in Paris at a charity auction we had attended.  The family that had donated the place were ex-pat Americans who had lived in Paris for many years.  He was a scientist and she a musician. They lived in a place just next door to the apartment.  They were gracious hosts, and helped make our stay even more enjoyable.  At the end of the week, after a two day side trip to Reims we had dinner with our hosts. We drank some Champagne and another bottle we had brought. We never got to this bottle of Bordeaux that he had pulled from his cellar for dinner, so he gave it to me to take.  The wine was produced by the INRA, for whom he worked.  I’ve had the wine since then and just hadn’t found the right occasion to drink it.  The bottle, besides its charms as a wine, is a fond remembrance of part of an amazing trip with my family that summer.

1997 Chateau Couhins, Pessac-Leognan, Graves
This is made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvigon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot that was aged in 30% new French oak barrels.  With both a mature color and nose of mature fruit on the nose this was drinking at its peak.  Notes of wood box, a short phase of acidity, and mature short flavors left the impression of a completely pleasant wine that put on some weight.  So satisfying the bottle was finished the first night. ** Now.

Aaron and Lou

A Glass of Wine at the Palace Kitchen

I had a quick dinner and a glass of wine at the Palace Kitchen bar in Seattle.  I had never heard of Hestia Cellars from Washington so I quickly asked for a glass of their wine at $12.  Now I am not sure if the “Red” listed on the Palace Kitchen menu is the Meritage or something selection.  I will followed up.

2009 Hestia Cellars, Red
This sported ample amounts of ripe fruit, not quite sweet but certainly jammy.  It seemed supple with well-integrated tannins and acidity.  It worked well as a single glass at the bar but it was too sweet for me to enjoy another glass. * Now.

Wine at Flying Fish

A group of us met up for dinner last week at Flying Fish in South Lake Union.  I did not realize the restaurant had relocated from Belltown even though I had been to Soul Wine, Serious Pie just to the north and Whole Foods to the south.  Unsure of whether to pick the 2009 Reinhold Haart or the 2009 Sparkman, Lumiere (I had enjoyed the 2010) the sommerliere, Claire Hansen, steered us towards the Reinhold Haart.  Having quickly polished off the Reinhold Haart she then recommend the 2009 Brian Carter Cellars, Oriana to accompany our variety of entrees.  My notes from memory are below.

2009 Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Grafenberg, Riesling Kabinett, Mosel Saar Ruwer
This had a strong sulphur “burnt-tire” nose at first but that eventually blew off to reveal citrus and minerals.  In the mouth there were white stone fruits, almost citrus like acidity, with minerals, some overt sweetness, and a petroleum note running through.  Balanced and textured on all fronts, everyone was pleased by the wine. A good Kabinett that could stay a wee bit of aging to come together. **(*) 2014-2022.

2009 Brian Carter Cellars, Oriana, Yakima Valley
This is a blend of 55% Viognier, 29% Roussane, and 16% Riesling that was sourced from Elderling, Solstice, and Olsen Brothers vineyards.  It was fermented and aged for six months in 67% stainless steel and 33% neutral French oak.  This took me completely by surprise with its tropical nose of “papaya” then hard, Rhone-like flavors in the mouth.  There were still some tropical notes mixed with pear-like flavors with a hard edge, decent mouth feel, and a good amount of acidity.  It cut through the food quite fine but was ultimately not the most pleasant to drink. * Now.